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  1. #1
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    2011 Reba RL 29 service questions

    I've had this fork apart twice now and can't get it back to factory condition. First, service I did last winter. Everything was working fine but I wanted to remove the 20mm spacer (mine had 2-10mm spacers) to take the travel from 100 to 120mm. I read this was doable on the 2011 reba rl but the markings on the stanchion only show 80 & 100? Put everything back as it was minus the spacers even though my dual air spring looks a little different then the what the manual shows. Unfortunately the manual doesn't show an exploded view of the air spring assembly but I do see mine doesn't have foam ring on the top out bumper. I added the proper oils suggested in the manual (123 ml of 15 wt in the motion control damper, just light grease on the air spring, and 5 ml of 5 wt in the lowers) When I got it all back together I aired up the positive until the stanchions maxed out in length and it still only reached 100 mm according to the markings. Then when I aired up to my usual pressures, 110+ 115- it now backed down to about 90 mm of travel where it used to hold its position before even when the pos. and neg. ratios were far greater. Not only that but the fork seems to bottom out with less travel. The O ring never makes it much higher then about and inch away from the crown. It used to go all the way to the crown before but I never felt it bottoming out.

    I just went through the whole service again and put enduro seals in this time and used moble1 5-30w in the lowers (5ml) and 85-120 gear oil in the air sleeve (along with some light grease on the o rings) and the same 15w maxima in the damper (123 ml). Seems a little more plush but still the same heavy sag and lack of travel.

    I am contemplating buying the reba air service kit just for the o rings. The fact that upping the neg. just 5 psi over the pos. makes it sag leads me to believe that a seal in defective. In both my services I cleaned the o rings with alcohol but I didn't pick any of them off their plastic to completely clean because they seemed to be doing their job before and none of the fluids showed any signs of dirt and it is a potental to nick the o ring or plastic and cause a problem where there wasn't one. I'm also thinking of putting the spacers back in if it isn't gonna give me any more travel.

    Any suggestions where I failed?
    Help, I'm a rock!

  2. #2
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    Is the shaft on your damper rod long enough to extend the fork to the 120mm position? Extend both the air shaft and the damper rod and see if they reach similar lengths. Also, the reba uses 5wt suspension oil in the damper not 15wt. The 15wt the manual calls for is in the lower leg. You reversed the oil during your first rebuild. Your second rebuild with motor oil and gear oil is better anyway so just replace the 15wt with some 5wt.

  3. #3
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    I'm sure I just worded that wrong. Going by memory. I followed instructions to a T. I'll check the lengths of the rods. I do seem to recall the damper rod being a little shorter, but again memory may be failing me.
    Help, I'm a rock!

  4. #4
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    Solved this one on my own after tearing it apart again and measuring and comparing. Turns out it is a 2012 fork! Even though it came on a bike I bought in October 2011. So I cannot take it up to 120mm of travel. Bummer. And I was adding 123 ml of 15w oil in the oil damper where I am assuming that it takes only 106ml like the 2013. There are no service instructions for the 2012 that I can find. I now seem to get the full 100mm of travel at least. Although I haven't thoroughly tested it out yet. It also seems that pressuring my neg. a little higher then the pos. like I used, to no longer causes the travel to drop from 100 to 90 without rider weight. Still can't explain why it had 20 mm of spacers in it but didn't affect it's travel either way. I am assuming 100 is as far as she'll go.
    Help, I'm a rock!

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