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  1. #1
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    2011 Lyrik Solo air knocking

    I sent my Lyrik in for warranty for an issue where the fork would not retract out of its travel. At times it would stay as much as 15 mm into the travel and I would have to grab the lowers and pull it out.

    That issue seems to now be addressed, but I now have this knocking noise at the beginning of the suspension stroke. If you press down on the fork you can hear and it feel it. I can also hear it as I'm riding.

    Any ideas short of sending it to SRAM again?

  2. #2
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    Well, can you tell which side it's coming from? Damper side or air side? Do any of the adjustments change the knock in any way?

    Either way it's internal and you can't fix it without opening the fork up.
    Die to ride, ride to die

  3. #3
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    It looks like it is coming from the air side. Not sure if the two are related, but I also noticed stiction at the top of the stroke where the know is as well.

  4. #4
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    When you're getting the knocking, are you cycling the fork quickly, only pushing it a little way into the travel, are you doing one slow push deep into the travel, or are you slamming the fork down to compress it?

  5. #5
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    Pushing a little way into the travel. I also hear it as I am riding. If its fast or big hits then it is much harder to hear or feel it.

  6. #6
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    So the knocking happens more if it's stutter bumps? Also, which model Lyrik is it (R, DH, etc.)?

  7. #7
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    2011 Solo air RC2DH with 10 mm spacer down to 160mm. It is anytime the fork activates into the stroke. It is easy to replicate if I am standing over the bike and push down on the bars it knock as the top of the stroke.

  8. #8
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    Hmmm, it's hard to day without seeing the fork, but the first thing I would check is your oil height in the damper. If it's too low, it could cause a "Clunk" when the damper hits the oil. The other thing to check would be that the Solo air piston has lubrication oil on top of it. Both are easy enough to check. For the air side, pull the top cap (depressurize it first) and look inside to see if there's a thin layer of oil on top of the piston. There should be 3-5ccs. On the damper leg, pull the damper out of the top of the stanchion. With the fork fully topped out, measure the distance from the top of the oil to the top of the stanchion. If this is greater than the distance from the bottom of the damper to the top of the threads on the top cap, then your oil is too low and you need to add some. With the mission control DH damper, you want the top of the oil to be 3-5mm above the top of the compression piston.

    Hope one of those solves it.

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