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  1. #1
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    2011 fox forks creaking/cracking noise

    Hi,
    My 180mm vanillas have developed a crack/creak which is mainly noticable when I do an endo/brake hard. it sounds a lot like the noise you get from a sdg saddle when the rails creak.
    I've done all the usual ie. regreased and tightend headset, checked nuts/bolts etc but I'm pretty certain it's the stanchions/fork crown interface thats the problem.
    I know the old fox's had a few issues with this but I've not heard of the 2011 having problems.

    I'm sending them off to have the warranty place take a look but they seem doubtfull it's the forks...

    Has anyone else had any problems? my local shop reckons they've not heard of any 2011 forks that creak neither does the warranty place.

    Cheers

  2. #2
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    What headset are you running?

  3. #3
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    did you check the fork lowers nuts??

  4. #4
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    yep, all nuts checked.
    It's a hope reducer headset, all the bearings have been replaced and it's all good.
    I've just put my old 66's on the bike and it doesn't do it anymore, so it's definitly the fox's.
    I'll get them sent off and see what they say

  5. #5
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    creaking could coming from the axle? maybe throw a little bit of grease on the axle?

    EVIL Following

    Surly Wednesday

  6. #6
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    Funny...........I'm just about to rip apart my front end. I have a 2011 36 FLOAT 160 and a creaking noise when I weight the front end.

    I was going to pull it apart tonight and check the headset bearings, and tug on the fork to see if I could isolate the noise.

    I have my old 32 FLOAT 150 that I was going to swap to, to see if the noise went away.

  7. #7
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    A lot of times you can put your hand on the crown/stanchion interface and feel the creak under load. Hold the front brake and compress the fork..you might just feel the crown creaking like a mother....I did!

  8. #8
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    Update

    Alright..........so it's my fork creaking. I removed it from the bike and attached an extra stem and bar that I had laying around. I even installed the axel to stiffen it up. It's creaking excessivelly when I twist the lowers. I even tried it with my old 32 and it was quiet.

    I guess it's off to the Bike Shop tomorrow and see what is to be done. I've only had it for a few weeks, something's not right.


  9. #9
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    Just did some research, looks like creaking CSU's (Uppers) are a known issue. Probably get the uppers replaced.....hopefully. Frickin annoying

  10. #10
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    Sounds the same situation as mine, just have to wait and see if they'll replace anything under warranty...... mine are going off today/tomorrow, just glad I've got my old 66's as a spare......

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by travo View Post
    Sounds the same situation as mine, just have to wait and see if they'll replace anything under warranty...... mine are going off today/tomorrow, just glad I've got my old 66's as a spare......
    Just curious, does your travel measure 180mm's? Or is it more? My 160 actually measures 175mm. Almost seems like the negative spring isn't strong enough.

  12. #12
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    I'll take a look at the travel when they come back.
    I remember when I got the forks I didn't seem to get full travel for the first few rides, they're working extremely well now though, well, apart from the creaking.........

  13. #13
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    I had this same problem with my 2011 fox 36 talas 160 rlc...
    fox replaced the uppers on it.
    i really hope they've done something to fix the problem as my warranty is up in a month.

  14. #14
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    Im having the same problem with my F100 RLC. I got mine slightly used off CL. Anyone know an estimate on how much to gt it fixed?

  15. #15
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    I'm starting to wonder about the 2011's, I guess that every new design has it's flaws. I'm back on my old 32 FLoat 150 OB and it feels great. Better small bump compliance than my 2011 36 FIT !! Though on bigger hits the 2011 does feel better.

    Problems with my 2011 36 FLoat 160:

    1. Creeking / Noisy Uppers (CSU)
    2. Excessive axel to crown / travel...over a cm longer than advertised. Travel is suppose to be 160mm and it sits at 175mm. Axel to Crown is over 555mm and is suppose to be 545.3mm. I'm thinking it's a weak or broken negative/top out spring. The FOX schematic drawing shows a +/- of 5mm not 10-15mm's. My 32 Float 150 and F100 measurements are correct.
    3. Terrible small bump compliance. It almost feels like I have it Locked Out all the time. Thinking it's because the negative spring is too soft and not doing its job properly. My 32 FLoat and F100 feel alot better in this department.
    4. Air pressures in manual are way off. I'm running quite a bit less than recommended. Could be too the extra volume in the air chamber because it's sitting 1.5cms higher than it's suppose to. Fox says I should be running 95PSI and I'm down to 60PSI, and I like my fork firm.


    Over all I'm happy with the 2011 Fork, but for the money FOX is charging I expect a more refined product. Considering all the OEM forks that I have bought with my bikes have been great!!

  16. #16
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    And make sure you demand stachions that are the same color.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Penny View Post
    And make sure you demand stachions that are the same color.
    Smart Ass

  18. #18
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    torque top caps on top of stanchions to something like 200 in lbs. i forget the exact number but i believe it is somewhere around there. fox claims that high number(most other manufactures are around 50-60in lb) is to reduced creaking in the CSU

  19. #19
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    220in/lbs..........hard to believe that would help? I guess the crown flex's a little and may creak around the threads.

    Doesn't hurt to make sure everything is snug though. Thanks.

  20. #20
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    My 2011 36 160mm Float w/Kashima (not gold like in photos btw) coating are creaking like crazy at any rolling speed when applying the front break. Annoying as hell and really just unacceptable for a $1000 fork! I don't have a spare fork and I've heard Fox takes forever to get things fixed and back to the rider. Debating whether to deal with it since it's peak riding season or go without to get it fixed. I love a stealth sounding bike and this just sounds like the front end is about to crack out from underneath in any rough dh braking!

  21. #21
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    My 2005 era TALAS creaks like crazy. Fox replaced the uppers twice under warranty, but it still does it. Pretty easy to check, do what canuck_tacoma did and pull the fork and try twisting the lowers. Crown will creak and pop. It seems to be the stanchion/crown junction that makes the noise.

    I gave up getting mine to not make noise and just live with it.

  22. #22
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    fox usa completed my warranty claim and shipped it back out in 3 business days.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by canuck_tacoma View Post
    Funny...........I'm just about to rip apart my front end. I have a 2011 36 FLOAT 160 and a creaking noise when I weight the front end.

    I was going to pull it apart tonight and check the headset bearings, and tug on the fork to see if I could isolate the noise.

    I have my old 32 FLOAT 150 that I was going to swap to, to see if the noise went away.

    Oh interesting. I too have a pair of 2011 36 Float RLCs and have a creak coming from the front end of my bike. I was wondering if was the fork as I've checked the stem hardware, headset, wheel, axle etc

    My fork is riding a better since I removed the 20+ cc overfill from the air chamber but the stiction and small bump is still terrible.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by BorisD View Post
    Oh interesting. I too have a pair of 2011 36 Float RLCs and have a creak coming from the front end of my bike. I was wondering if was the fork as I've checked the stem hardware, headset, wheel, axle etc.
    Yeah, I had the whole front end apart. Greasing the headset, cleaning stem, spacers, even greased the ends of the shifter cables. In the end it was the fork, last thing I would have thought.

    Quote Originally Posted by BorisD View Post
    My fork is riding a better since I removed the 20+ cc overfill from the air chamber but the stiction and small bump is still terrible.
    Funny because that was the whole idea of the new Kashima Coating. I have a feeling it's the valving of the FIT Cartridge though.......HSC is probably set firm. The fork feels like it's locked out over wash board. It is nice and tight for pedaling though so there is some benefit.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by canuck_tacoma View Post
    Funny because that was the whole idea of the new Kashima Coating. I have a feeling it's the valving of the FIT Cartridge though.......HSC is probably set firm. The fork feels like it's locked out over wash board. It is nice and tight for pedaling though so there is some benefit.
    Slight thread highjack.

    I thought up a simple test to see how much force it takes to break the initial stiction just to try and quantity this in some way.

    So with 60psi in the fork - I removed the front wheel, rested the fork legs on a pair of scales so they were about perpendicular to the level of the floor and slowly applied force down onto the handlebars.
    Result - 44lbs to 'break the stiction'

    I also tried this on my Rockshox Sektors -
    Result - 0lb as they have no stiction whatsoever.

    Do you think this is linked to the HSC?

  26. #26
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    Subscribing for the outcome. FWIW, I have a 2011 Float 36 R and loving it.
    konahonzo

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Subscribing for the outcome.
    Me too!

    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    FWIW, I have a 2011 Float 36 R and loving it.
    Hope I'm feeling the same way about my '12 180RC2 I recently ordered!

  28. #28
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    Just took my race off...

    *Possible to bring it in person w/ receipt, or do you have to UPS?

    Anyone know the closest Fox warranty center to Los Angeles?
    Last edited by J:; 05-31-2011 at 08:51 AM.

  29. #29
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    WOW! Just noticed also that there is a slight space between the front lower and the end cap to my Hadley hub. I have to move the lower inward almost a mm to get it flush. Seems like maybe the tolerances are off causing some twisting and eventually leading to the creaking in the uppers.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by BorisD View Post
    Do you think this is linked to the HSC?
    No.............that is just Stiction, maybe LSC.

    HSC is High Speed which you won't acheive unless you're riding the bike or have a dyno. It's really hard to feel the dampner while pushing on the fork, it needs to be ridden. The forces that are put on it are extreme compared to what you can acheive by just pushing on it.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by aappling72 View Post
    WOW! Just noticed also that there is a slight space between the front lower and the end cap to my Hadley hub. I have to move the lower inward almost a mm to get it flush. Seems like maybe the tolerances are off causing some twisting and eventually leading to the creaking in the uppers.
    Just tighten your axel and clamp, should be secure.

    I think they put an adhesive on the uppers and press fit them into the crown. The creaking is coming from either the fit isn't tight enough or the adhesive is letting go. I would imagine the press fit is what is doing most of the securing.

  32. #32
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    Fork is back from Repair

    Hey, just thought I would let everyone know my Fork has come back with a new CSU. They just swapped the whole upper assembley out. I havn't had a chance to ride it yet, as the bike had to go in because they had to cut the new steer tube and install the Fork.

    I'd say great service!! 1 week turn around, no resistance, it went very smoothly. I will report back after I ride it.

  33. #33
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    just to ask - whom should I contact with: online store that I bought the fork (I'm from Europe) or I can send it directly to Fox - USA.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by codename47 View Post
    just to ask - whom should I contact with: online store that I bought the fork (I'm from Europe) or I can send it directly to Fox - USA.
    Just phone FOX and ask them for the Service Center in your area, that's where you will need to have your fork sent to. Let them know who you bought it from, just in case it's not an aothorized dealer. If it's not they may not warranty it.

    I'm in Canada and OGC does all the FOX repairs here.

  35. #35
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    hello everybody. i am 110% sure that i know how to resolve the creaking issue watch the picture. where the fork crown is pressed in that upper part (sorry i cand find now the word i nenglish.the piece that conect with the stem) must pe cleaned with water and soap and with a brush. then afetr it is dry LUBE it with bike upside down and wait 5minutes so the oil can penetrate. then clean with a rag exxcesive oil. then go ride and post here
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2011 fox forks creaking/cracking noise-dsc000321.jpg  


  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by null View Post
    hello everybody. i am 110% sure that i know how to resolve the creaking issue watch the picture. where the fork crown is pressed in that upper part (sorry i cand find now the word i nenglish.the piece that conect with the stem) must pe cleaned with water and soap and with a brush. then afetr it is dry LUBE it with bike upside down and wait 5minutes so the oil can penetrate. then clean with a rag exxcesive oil. then go ride and post here
    I'm not so sure this is a good idea, but others should chime in.

    That is a press (or interference) fit that relies on friction to stay assembled. If it is creaking the allowance may be off and introducing oil (if it can even penetrate the fit) will only decrease the friction. It could reduce the creaking, but it could also cause the steerer to move more with relation to the crown.

    If a little cleaning and oil safely fixes the problem would Fox be spending the money to replace the CSU's on these?

    I could be wrong though, because I'm only 95% sure.

    I've got a 2011 36 Van waiting to be mounted. Anybody having the creaking with the tapered steerers?
    "Always remember to be yourself. Unless you suck."
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  37. #37
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    fox do not do this diy stuff. because they are pro. that doesn't mean it is not safe. it is press fit yes but wit heat. you know expand/contract.... NO VOLUME of oil will cause the steerer to actualy MOVE ! oil is lubing only the lower part of it not the actually pressed one where there is no room for oil to penetreate because the surfaces are actualy "bond".

    i run 2 fox with lube in that area 3years each.and that is intense fr and urban riding and i am a 220 lbs animal a lots of stopie too (at each headlight and every halt brake actually)

  38. #38
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    Abused my repaired 2011 36 FLoat for about 3 hours today and it was flawless. No noise or other problems to report.............hopefully it stays this way.

  39. #39
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    Made 2 videos. Is the creaking noise sound like this:

    <iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/lJYyII7TFL4?hl=en&fs=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> <iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/d3SPPXdvEKE?hl=en&fs=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
    ?
    Last edited by codename47; 07-07-2011 at 10:30 AM.

  40. #40
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    yep, send that sucker in

  41. #41
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    i got my fox 36 talas back from warranty a couple months ago and the creaking is starting again.

  42. #42
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    I just had to send my Vans in because the damper side stanchion was creaking in the crown.

  43. #43
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    told you. lube that part from my previous post. and it might resolve your problem
    i am here only to gather knowledge and to offer to others what i know. no bullsht please,so stop wasting good bull !

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by null View Post
    told you. lube that part from my previous post. and it might resolve your problem
    maybe i will try your solution if im out of warranty...
    but i kind of have to agree with the guy above...
    why would fox be replacing the complete uppers(stanchions, crown, steer tube) on your fork if it is only a matter of lube?

  45. #45
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    because fox are professionals ! we are not. where is the diy spirit ? why fox states that you have to change seals at every oil change? because that is ideal ! i am at the third oil change with same seals and they are like new. no oil loss. think for yourself don't let a mamut company like fox think for you
    i am here only to gather knowledge and to offer to others what i know. no bullsht please,so stop wasting good bull !

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by null View Post
    fox do not do this diy stuff. because they are pro. that doesn't mean it is not safe. it is press fit yes but wit heat. you know expand/contract.... NO VOLUME of oil will cause the steerer to actualy MOVE ! oil is lubing only the lower part of it not the actually pressed one where there is no room for oil to penetreate because the surfaces are actualy "bond".

    i run 2 fox with lube in that area 3years each.and that is intense fr and urban riding and i am a 220 lbs animal a lots of stopie too (at each headlight and every halt brake actually)
    While I agree with you I'm still not sure...if there is creaking, there is movement. If there is movement the tolerances of the interference fit are off, i.e. the "bond" is incomplete. I agree that there is probably enough interference to prevent complete penetration of the oil, but there is a threshold at which the friction of the fit could be overcome.

    In the end it probably doesn't matter, the failure would likely a slight rotation of the steerer, no worse than having your stem twist a little. I doubt it would go completely loose all at once.

    Sorry, I'm done web-ineering now.
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  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by drsmonkey View Post

    Sorry, I'm done web-ineering now.
    No, I think that you are being smart and applying a bit of thought instead of a band-aid fix to a potentially serious problem.

  48. #48
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    a fork upercrown assembly CANNOT came apart and fall. unless there is a crack. but the pressed area cannot do that. if you se a cutaway of a uppercrown you will just know.
    i am here only to gather knowledge and to offer to others what i know. no bullsht please,so stop wasting good bull !

  49. #49
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    explain me,how this can just fall http://www.singletrackworld.com/wp-c...ay-600x396.jpg

    le: worst case scenario it will just spin ,like a loose stem. ok that is not cool but.. it is unlikely to hapen
    i am here only to gather knowledge and to offer to others what i know. no bullsht please,so stop wasting good bull !

  50. #50
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    I personally know someone who had a Fox 29'r Fork come loose. The stanchion was slowly working its way out of the crown. It was a little bit, but enough to start screwing up the fork and made him very nervous about riding it.

    My fork had the stanchions creeking not the steer tube.

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