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  1. #1
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    2011 fox forks creaking/cracking noise

    Hi,
    My 180mm vanillas have developed a crack/creak which is mainly noticable when I do an endo/brake hard. it sounds a lot like the noise you get from a sdg saddle when the rails creak.
    I've done all the usual ie. regreased and tightend headset, checked nuts/bolts etc but I'm pretty certain it's the stanchions/fork crown interface thats the problem.
    I know the old fox's had a few issues with this but I've not heard of the 2011 having problems.

    I'm sending them off to have the warranty place take a look but they seem doubtfull it's the forks...

    Has anyone else had any problems? my local shop reckons they've not heard of any 2011 forks that creak neither does the warranty place.

    Cheers

  2. #2
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    What headset are you running?

  3. #3
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    did you check the fork lowers nuts??

  4. #4
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    yep, all nuts checked.
    It's a hope reducer headset, all the bearings have been replaced and it's all good.
    I've just put my old 66's on the bike and it doesn't do it anymore, so it's definitly the fox's.
    I'll get them sent off and see what they say

  5. #5
    LCW
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    creaking could coming from the axle? maybe throw a little bit of grease on the axle?
    2011 Yeti 575 - 2015 Fox Float 36 RC2 160 / Fox Float X - 30.6 lbs

  6. #6
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    Funny...........I'm just about to rip apart my front end. I have a 2011 36 FLOAT 160 and a creaking noise when I weight the front end.

    I was going to pull it apart tonight and check the headset bearings, and tug on the fork to see if I could isolate the noise.

    I have my old 32 FLOAT 150 that I was going to swap to, to see if the noise went away.

  7. #7
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    A lot of times you can put your hand on the crown/stanchion interface and feel the creak under load. Hold the front brake and compress the fork..you might just feel the crown creaking like a mother....I did!

  8. #8
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    Update

    Alright..........so it's my fork creaking. I removed it from the bike and attached an extra stem and bar that I had laying around. I even installed the axel to stiffen it up. It's creaking excessivelly when I twist the lowers. I even tried it with my old 32 and it was quiet.

    I guess it's off to the Bike Shop tomorrow and see what is to be done. I've only had it for a few weeks, something's not right.


  9. #9
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    Just did some research, looks like creaking CSU's (Uppers) are a known issue. Probably get the uppers replaced.....hopefully. Frickin annoying

  10. #10
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    Sounds the same situation as mine, just have to wait and see if they'll replace anything under warranty...... mine are going off today/tomorrow, just glad I've got my old 66's as a spare......

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by travo View Post
    Sounds the same situation as mine, just have to wait and see if they'll replace anything under warranty...... mine are going off today/tomorrow, just glad I've got my old 66's as a spare......
    Just curious, does your travel measure 180mm's? Or is it more? My 160 actually measures 175mm. Almost seems like the negative spring isn't strong enough.

  12. #12
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    I'll take a look at the travel when they come back.
    I remember when I got the forks I didn't seem to get full travel for the first few rides, they're working extremely well now though, well, apart from the creaking.........

  13. #13
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    I had this same problem with my 2011 fox 36 talas 160 rlc...
    fox replaced the uppers on it.
    i really hope they've done something to fix the problem as my warranty is up in a month.

  14. #14
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    Im having the same problem with my F100 RLC. I got mine slightly used off CL. Anyone know an estimate on how much to gt it fixed?

  15. #15
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    I'm starting to wonder about the 2011's, I guess that every new design has it's flaws. I'm back on my old 32 FLoat 150 OB and it feels great. Better small bump compliance than my 2011 36 FIT !! Though on bigger hits the 2011 does feel better.

    Problems with my 2011 36 FLoat 160:

    1. Creeking / Noisy Uppers (CSU)
    2. Excessive axel to crown / travel...over a cm longer than advertised. Travel is suppose to be 160mm and it sits at 175mm. Axel to Crown is over 555mm and is suppose to be 545.3mm. I'm thinking it's a weak or broken negative/top out spring. The FOX schematic drawing shows a +/- of 5mm not 10-15mm's. My 32 Float 150 and F100 measurements are correct.
    3. Terrible small bump compliance. It almost feels like I have it Locked Out all the time. Thinking it's because the negative spring is too soft and not doing its job properly. My 32 FLoat and F100 feel alot better in this department.
    4. Air pressures in manual are way off. I'm running quite a bit less than recommended. Could be too the extra volume in the air chamber because it's sitting 1.5cms higher than it's suppose to. Fox says I should be running 95PSI and I'm down to 60PSI, and I like my fork firm.


    Over all I'm happy with the 2011 Fork, but for the money FOX is charging I expect a more refined product. Considering all the OEM forks that I have bought with my bikes have been great!!

  16. #16
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    And make sure you demand stachions that are the same color.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Penny View Post
    And make sure you demand stachions that are the same color.
    Smart Ass

  18. #18
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    torque top caps on top of stanchions to something like 200 in lbs. i forget the exact number but i believe it is somewhere around there. fox claims that high number(most other manufactures are around 50-60in lb) is to reduced creaking in the CSU

  19. #19
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    220in/lbs..........hard to believe that would help? I guess the crown flex's a little and may creak around the threads.

    Doesn't hurt to make sure everything is snug though. Thanks.

  20. #20
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    My 2011 36 160mm Float w/Kashima (not gold like in photos btw) coating are creaking like crazy at any rolling speed when applying the front break. Annoying as hell and really just unacceptable for a $1000 fork! I don't have a spare fork and I've heard Fox takes forever to get things fixed and back to the rider. Debating whether to deal with it since it's peak riding season or go without to get it fixed. I love a stealth sounding bike and this just sounds like the front end is about to crack out from underneath in any rough dh braking!

  21. #21
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    My 2005 era TALAS creaks like crazy. Fox replaced the uppers twice under warranty, but it still does it. Pretty easy to check, do what canuck_tacoma did and pull the fork and try twisting the lowers. Crown will creak and pop. It seems to be the stanchion/crown junction that makes the noise.

    I gave up getting mine to not make noise and just live with it.

  22. #22
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    fox usa completed my warranty claim and shipped it back out in 3 business days.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by canuck_tacoma View Post
    Funny...........I'm just about to rip apart my front end. I have a 2011 36 FLOAT 160 and a creaking noise when I weight the front end.

    I was going to pull it apart tonight and check the headset bearings, and tug on the fork to see if I could isolate the noise.

    I have my old 32 FLOAT 150 that I was going to swap to, to see if the noise went away.

    Oh interesting. I too have a pair of 2011 36 Float RLCs and have a creak coming from the front end of my bike. I was wondering if was the fork as I've checked the stem hardware, headset, wheel, axle etc

    My fork is riding a better since I removed the 20+ cc overfill from the air chamber but the stiction and small bump is still terrible.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by BorisD View Post
    Oh interesting. I too have a pair of 2011 36 Float RLCs and have a creak coming from the front end of my bike. I was wondering if was the fork as I've checked the stem hardware, headset, wheel, axle etc.
    Yeah, I had the whole front end apart. Greasing the headset, cleaning stem, spacers, even greased the ends of the shifter cables. In the end it was the fork, last thing I would have thought.

    Quote Originally Posted by BorisD View Post
    My fork is riding a better since I removed the 20+ cc overfill from the air chamber but the stiction and small bump is still terrible.
    Funny because that was the whole idea of the new Kashima Coating. I have a feeling it's the valving of the FIT Cartridge though.......HSC is probably set firm. The fork feels like it's locked out over wash board. It is nice and tight for pedaling though so there is some benefit.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by canuck_tacoma View Post
    Funny because that was the whole idea of the new Kashima Coating. I have a feeling it's the valving of the FIT Cartridge though.......HSC is probably set firm. The fork feels like it's locked out over wash board. It is nice and tight for pedaling though so there is some benefit.
    Slight thread highjack.

    I thought up a simple test to see how much force it takes to break the initial stiction just to try and quantity this in some way.

    So with 60psi in the fork - I removed the front wheel, rested the fork legs on a pair of scales so they were about perpendicular to the level of the floor and slowly applied force down onto the handlebars.
    Result - 44lbs to 'break the stiction'

    I also tried this on my Rockshox Sektors -
    Result - 0lb as they have no stiction whatsoever.

    Do you think this is linked to the HSC?

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