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  1. #251
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    I'm an idiot!! Just bought a 2014 34 Float, after two previous 36's creaking,......any bets on how long it will be before this one starts to creak?

    BTW it's a really nice feeling fork, very happy with it so far.

  2. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by canuck_tacoma View Post
    I'm an idiot!! Just bought a 2014 34 Float, after two previous 36's creaking,......any bets on how long it will be before this one starts to creak?

    BTW it's a really nice feeling fork, very happy with it so far.
    Well, I went thru two sessions w/ Fox warranty on my 34 Float 140 29er. Because of how long those legs are, the creaking came pretty much right away. This is why I keep a spare Marz 44 Micro Ti 29er on hand for this bike. Once the creaking is resolved, the Marz will go on one of those cheap Chinese carbon hardtails
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  3. #253
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    giving up on Fox forks my 2013 Float 32 140 are creaking excessive not only braking but even when riding -

  4. #254
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    I have to hand it to Fox for how they handled my creaking CSU on my '13 36 Float 160. I'm out in MD (5 days via ups to fox), so they did next day shipping back and forth, and covered labor at my LBS to uninstall/reinstall the fork. I got a brand new CSU unit with shiny new kashima. The best part was a 3-year warranty extension for any future CSU problems. I spoke to the service manager, and he said they have newly designed CSU's rolling out of production to help address the issue. I guess time will tell if it actually works

  5. #255
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    Good to hear Kayman121, I had a pretty severe creaking noise from my 2013 float 100's
    sent them off to Fox and I have to say they handeled my issue fast and professional, delt with Travis and he was my contact throughout the service claim. Happy customer.

  6. #256
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    I am on my 3rd CSU on my 26" float 140 and it once again has started to creak. It was subtle at first but now it is pretty loud and happens nonstop as I ride. My experience with fox warranty has been excellent for the first 2 replacements (as others have also mentioned) but this time I am going to try the oil trick before I send it in. Sending it back to fox usually only puts the fork out of my hands for 1.5 weeks, but it is still annoying. Trying to get myself to just accept the noise and live with it since besides the sound the fork works fine and I am confident the noise doesn't affect performance, but so far I am too OCD about random noises on my bike.

    FYI, all 3 cases of creaky CSUs made noise at the crown stanchion interface.
    Last edited by ejhorn; 01-16-2014 at 09:45 PM. Reason: typo

  7. #257
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    The solution to this problem is called rock shox.

  8. #258
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    Quote Originally Posted by ejhorn View Post
    but this time I am going to try the oil trick before I send it in.
    Loctite 290 wicking grade solved it for me. Invert the fork, apply around the join, clean up any excess, leave overnight. Repeat if you're OCD No creaks for a year or so.

  9. #259
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    Had my 2012 Fox DRCV start creaking in December. My fork will be two years old in May, and wasn't sure what to expect when I sent it back to them. I was expecting to have to pay to have the fork rebuild in exchange for the crown being replaced. Dave at Fox was really responsive, and after receiving the fork decided that they would replace the entire fork. Not sure what else was wrong with the fork as it was meticulously maintained, but something prompted Fox to replace the entire fork. I'm very happy they did and it's making my decision to purchase a Fox fork for my new 29er build pretty easy.

  10. #260
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    My Fox 29'er 120 CTDs started creaking about a month ago. I checked everything else (axle, headset, stem, bars). Flipped the bike upside down and twisted the fork legs gently, and I got the creak (well, more of a click). I get it when I brake hard, or power down on the pedals.
    Suggested return time for the forks (for me down here) is two weeks, which is a long time to be without the bike. I'm thinking I will try the Loctite 290 method.
    I've had the bike since last September. I would have thought Fox would have fixed the issue by now

  11. #261
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    Ok, I tried the Loctite method. I used Loctite 609, applying it around the underside of the crown/steerer and crown/stanchion junctions. I left it 24 hours to cure, with the bike upside down, and then left it for another 24 hours with the bike sitting upright.

    I've just taken it for a short ride, and when powering hard, or braking hard, there is no creak. It will be interesting to see how long this holds up.

  12. #262
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    Rock Shox is not the solution. I know two new Pikes that are already creaking away happily...
    My 2011 36 RC2 is creaking every dusty and super warm summer. My solution is rather simple... i spray some brake cleaner between crown and steerer, blow the dirt/dust out with compressed air and flush the gap with some thin oil from a spray can. Solves this "problem" for a few years now..

  13. #263
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    Howdy !

    My 2013 Fox Talas started creaking from day one but las week creaking became unbearable. Followed this precious topic and added Loctite,the fork this morning is completely silent. Can this Loctite thing be considered a permanent solution or should I send in the fork for overhaul ?
    Roadie DNA,mtbike curious.

  14. #264
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devastazione View Post
    Howdy !

    My 2013 Fox Talas started creaking from day one but las week creaking became unbearable. Followed this precious topic and added Loctite,the fork this morning is completely silent. Can this Loctite thing be considered a permanent solution or should I send in the fork for overhaul ?
    Glad it worked for you, how nice is it to have quiet forks again?

    My loctite 290 treated forks are still creak-free and it's been well over a year now, probably more like two, so I reckon you should be ok.

  15. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcam View Post
    Ok, I tried the Loctite method. I used Loctite 609, applying it around the underside of the crown/steerer and crown/stanchion junctions. I left it 24 hours to cure, with the bike upside down, and then left it for another 24 hours with the bike sitting upright.

    I've just taken it for a short ride, and when powering hard, or braking hard, there is no creak. It will be interesting to see how long this holds up.
    I think mcam is on to something with the Locktite 609 Retaining Compound. I have been using the green penetrating Locktite for threaded applications and it only works for a ride or two. I just got some 609 and will be trying it soon.
    Portland Off Road Navagators

  16. #266
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    So what is that actually happens when you add Loctite in there ? Ok the fork is now quiet again but honestly at this time I'm pretty scared at the idea of getting airborn with the bike. Am I gonna have my stanchions detached while blasting downhill ? What is that make the creaking happen in the end ?
    Roadie DNA,mtbike curious.

  17. #267
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    Another solution I've tried besides the Loctite 290 is spraying the junctions with 7649 Loctite Primer and then using Loctite 638. Cure time is 48 hours. Be careful with the primer, it can damage powdercoat so make sure to protect the crown from excessive spray.

  18. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by bubba13 View Post
    I think mcam is on to something with the Locktite 609 Retaining Compound. I have been using the green penetrating Locktite for threaded applications and it only works for a ride or two. I just got some 609 and will be trying it soon.
    I have a very tiny tube of 609 R.C. The website I ordered it from showed a bottle but what I received was this very tiny tube for $11 (free shipping but I'm guessing the tube was a few bucks & the rest is the 'free shipping' costs) so I hope I have enough...

    6/14:

    I put some of the 609 R.C. on the crown/steerer area & it's currently curing. Also, I got a refund on the R.C. as the site didn't send me the bottle they have pictured on their site. I'll find out Monday or Tues. if it stopped or quiets down the creaking/clicking I had (sounds like what I thought was the saddle creaking). It didn't creak all the time, just off and on.
    Last edited by bitewerks; 06-14-2014 at 06:07 PM.

  19. #269
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    Any recent experience with creaky Rock Shox Revelations?
    A pessimist is an experienced optimist

  20. #270
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    How is this issue evolving? New 2013/2014 keep on creaking?
    A pessimist is an experienced optimist

  21. #271
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    2011 fox forks creaking/cracking noise

    Fox replaced my 36 CSU once but refused to when second one started to make a racket, so I did the suggested 609 procedure, taking care to clean it with IPA, drying it well, and letting it cure upside down in a vice for 2-3 days. Haven't had any creaking in 6 months and it's done shuttle days...

  22. #272
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    I put the Loctite 609 Retaining Compound where the crown/steerer & allowed it to dry for 2 days but I got a few 'pops' riding in the street. I'm not sure how to tell if I put enough or what considering the gap around the crown is very small. I guess I'll try around the top of the stanchions where they meet the csu (if I have enough of the RC left in the little tube).

    My fork is a '11 TALAS 140 RLC that is now a FLOAT. I think it's a '11; purchased summer of '10. It's creaked/popped mildly but lately seems to have gotten a little worse; I thought for awhile it was my saddle making the noise.

  23. #273
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    So I'm geared up to try this myself, using a mix of 290 and 609. Did anybody leave their fork intact while trying "the fix", or were they all removed and disassembled prior? I'd like to leave mine as is, but I don't want the fork cap to get stuck too.

  24. #274
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    Leave it assembled.

  25. #275
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    I left mine assembled, and it worked fine.

  26. #276
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    Have you guys done the steerer tube from the bottom of the Crown, too. I did the stanchions (upside down) where they meet the Crown but I'm still experiencing the creeking noise. I used the Loctite 290 after using their Klean and Prime activator.

  27. #277
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    I did the steerer tube from the bottom of the crown as well.

  28. #278
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    Hmmm...ok. So, I applied a mix of 290 and 609 to the bottom of the crown/ stanchion interface, twice, and the steerer/crown once. Let dry for 24, then set upright for another 24. No luck. Should I do the top of the stanchion interface, and the steerer? If I do the stanchions, won't that lock the top caps?

  29. #279
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    Did you apply first the 290, let 24 hour cure and then apply the 609 and cure for 24 hours?

    Only apply on the stanchion/crown interface (and on the steerer/crown if you are 100% sure the creak comes from there), don't apply it anywhere else.

  30. #280
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    I still can't get rid of my creak. It's definitely coming from the fork- swapping to a rigid fork eliminates the noise, and I can just barely get the fork to do it in my hands.

    I mixed the two, then applied and allowed to cure for 24hr upside down, 24hr rightside up. I can see a thin ring of stuff in the stanchion/crown joint, but not under the steerer. I can try the top interface of the steerer, and remove the crown race...

  31. #281
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    Why did you mix them? That defeats the purpose of each loctite.

  32. #282
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    Quote Originally Posted by tacubaya View Post
    Why did you mix them? That defeats the purpose of each loctite.
    My thought as well. Not seeing the benefit.

  33. #283
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    I guess I figured lowered viscosity with higher binding strength? So that it would wick into the crevices but still be strong enough to not give up over time? Because some people said that 290 didn't work, but 609 wasn't thin enough to penetrate?

  34. #284
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    Thank you all for this thread. I have bought a used Specialized stumpjumper carbon and have the same annoying problem with my FOX 32 fork. I tried the oil/ teflon and let it the fork stand uppside down overnigth, but that did not work. I wrote FOX services Germany, but they has not answerd yet. I guess the next step is to trie tho degrease the thing and trie the locktite solution, but there is also no garantee for succes. I Think it depnds if the fluid really can creep in between. Stupid that locktite write on their website they have the absolute solution to make pressfit fittings ultimatively stable when lockite is applied before pressing the fork togehter. Why Doesn't FOX use Locktite right from the start?

  35. #285
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    Everybody here's the solution for creaky steerer tube and stanchions. An exclusive process invented by the Bicycle Jesus himself.

    Stanchion Repress | Blue Liquid Labs

    Check out the suspension services page as well.

    Suspension Department | Blue Liquid Labs

  36. #286
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    Thanks for that Oliver - I've parked your link away in case I run into this (I didn't even know this could be done).

  37. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by olivermajewski View Post
    Everybody here's the solution for creaky steerer tube and stanchions. An exclusive process invented by the Bicycle Jesus himself.

    Stanchion Repress | Blue Liquid Labs

    Check out the suspension services page as well.

    Suspension Department | Blue Liquid Labs
    Oliver.

    Many manufacturers have tried using Loctite during CSU assembly (and some still do) to eliminate the creaking, but it eventually comes back. I personally think it's one the best solutions we have, yet it remains an unsolved problem.

    Btw, you mention you are the only one in the world doing that, but I know a few guys across the pond doing that and more, one technician even sends out wore out stanchions for centerless griding/honing and re-anodizing.

  38. #288
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    Quote Originally Posted by tacubaya View Post
    Oliver.

    Many manufacturers have tried using Loctite during CSU assembly (and some still do) to eliminate the creaking, but it eventually comes back. I personally think it's one the best solutions we have, yet it remains an unsolved problem.

    Btw, you mention you are the only one in the world doing that, but I know a few guys across the pond doing that and more, one technician even sends out wore out stanchions for centerless griding/honing and re-anodizing.
    That's incredible. Do you have the names or websites of the guys that hone and re-anodize stanchions? Also, do you have the names of the guys who are repressing steerer tubes and stanchions? Is the amount they charge for honing and reanodizing less than brand new CSU's?

    Regarding longevity, I rode the creakiest fork I've ever heard for about 8 years. I pressed everything out and pressed it back in with loctite 609 and I've been riding creak free for 3 years now. 3 years is pretty good I think. Longer than cables can stay in tune. Longer than seals can last.

    I've pressed apart many forks now from many different brands and only one has ever had any residue of some retaining compound but I know exactly how loctite brand 609 looks when new and how it looks when old. I know exactly the color and I know exactly how it feels between my fingernails when it crumbles away. The stuff I've seen this manufacturer use didnt feel at all like loctite 609 retaining compound, it had to be something else.

  39. #289
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    X Fusion Sweep - Creek

    I know this thread is ancient but its been a great source of information. I suspected i was getting a creek from the crown/steerer junction, thankfully this was not the case.

    I took of the forks and seen paint on the crown race. This was the cause of the creek, paint from the forks bonding to the aluminum c/race.

    I removed the paint with a blade, put a little grease between the c/r and the forks and now, no more creek.

    I faced the fork by putting a headset on(spaced it with h/set spacers) and clamping it in the work stand horizontal, then i was able to turn the forks and hold a blade against the crown. Just turned away to take it down to the metal. Came out surprisingly well. I can image a facing tool for this one job would be expensive.2011 fox forks creaking/cracking noise-gopr0297.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2011 fox forks creaking/cracking noise-gopr0294.jpg  


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