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  1. #26
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    Subscribing for the outcome. FWIW, I have a 2011 Float 36 R and loving it.

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Subscribing for the outcome.
    Me too!

    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    FWIW, I have a 2011 Float 36 R and loving it.
    Hope I'm feeling the same way about my '12 180RC2 I recently ordered!

  3. #28
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    Just took my race off...

    *Possible to bring it in person w/ receipt, or do you have to UPS?

    Anyone know the closest Fox warranty center to Los Angeles?
    Last edited by Deerhill; 05-31-2011 at 07:51 AM.

  4. #29
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    WOW! Just noticed also that there is a slight space between the front lower and the end cap to my Hadley hub. I have to move the lower inward almost a mm to get it flush. Seems like maybe the tolerances are off causing some twisting and eventually leading to the creaking in the uppers.

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by BorisD View Post
    Do you think this is linked to the HSC?
    No.............that is just Stiction, maybe LSC.

    HSC is High Speed which you won't acheive unless you're riding the bike or have a dyno. It's really hard to feel the dampner while pushing on the fork, it needs to be ridden. The forces that are put on it are extreme compared to what you can acheive by just pushing on it.

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by aappling72 View Post
    WOW! Just noticed also that there is a slight space between the front lower and the end cap to my Hadley hub. I have to move the lower inward almost a mm to get it flush. Seems like maybe the tolerances are off causing some twisting and eventually leading to the creaking in the uppers.
    Just tighten your axel and clamp, should be secure.

    I think they put an adhesive on the uppers and press fit them into the crown. The creaking is coming from either the fit isn't tight enough or the adhesive is letting go. I would imagine the press fit is what is doing most of the securing.

  7. #32
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    Fork is back from Repair

    Hey, just thought I would let everyone know my Fork has come back with a new CSU. They just swapped the whole upper assembley out. I havn't had a chance to ride it yet, as the bike had to go in because they had to cut the new steer tube and install the Fork.

    I'd say great service!! 1 week turn around, no resistance, it went very smoothly. I will report back after I ride it.

  8. #33
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    just to ask - whom should I contact with: online store that I bought the fork (I'm from Europe) or I can send it directly to Fox - USA.

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by codename47 View Post
    just to ask - whom should I contact with: online store that I bought the fork (I'm from Europe) or I can send it directly to Fox - USA.
    Just phone FOX and ask them for the Service Center in your area, that's where you will need to have your fork sent to. Let them know who you bought it from, just in case it's not an aothorized dealer. If it's not they may not warranty it.

    I'm in Canada and OGC does all the FOX repairs here.

  10. #35
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    hello everybody. i am 110% sure that i know how to resolve the creaking issue watch the picture. where the fork crown is pressed in that upper part (sorry i cand find now the word i nenglish.the piece that conect with the stem) must pe cleaned with water and soap and with a brush. then afetr it is dry LUBE it with bike upside down and wait 5minutes so the oil can penetrate. then clean with a rag exxcesive oil. then go ride and post here
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2011 fox forks creaking/cracking noise-dsc000321.jpg  


  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by null View Post
    hello everybody. i am 110% sure that i know how to resolve the creaking issue watch the picture. where the fork crown is pressed in that upper part (sorry i cand find now the word i nenglish.the piece that conect with the stem) must pe cleaned with water and soap and with a brush. then afetr it is dry LUBE it with bike upside down and wait 5minutes so the oil can penetrate. then clean with a rag exxcesive oil. then go ride and post here
    I'm not so sure this is a good idea, but others should chime in.

    That is a press (or interference) fit that relies on friction to stay assembled. If it is creaking the allowance may be off and introducing oil (if it can even penetrate the fit) will only decrease the friction. It could reduce the creaking, but it could also cause the steerer to move more with relation to the crown.

    If a little cleaning and oil safely fixes the problem would Fox be spending the money to replace the CSU's on these?

    I could be wrong though, because I'm only 95% sure.

    I've got a 2011 36 Van waiting to be mounted. Anybody having the creaking with the tapered steerers?
    "Always remember to be yourself. Unless you suck."
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  12. #37
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    fox do not do this diy stuff. because they are pro. that doesn't mean it is not safe. it is press fit yes but wit heat. you know expand/contract.... NO VOLUME of oil will cause the steerer to actualy MOVE ! oil is lubing only the lower part of it not the actually pressed one where there is no room for oil to penetreate because the surfaces are actualy "bond".

    i run 2 fox with lube in that area 3years each.and that is intense fr and urban riding and i am a 220 lbs animal a lots of stopie too (at each headlight and every halt brake actually)

  13. #38
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    Abused my repaired 2011 36 FLoat for about 3 hours today and it was flawless. No noise or other problems to report.............hopefully it stays this way.

  14. #39
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    Made 2 videos. Is the creaking noise sound like this:


    ?
    Last edited by codename47; 07-07-2011 at 09:30 AM.

  15. #40
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    yep, send that sucker in

  16. #41
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    i got my fox 36 talas back from warranty a couple months ago and the creaking is starting again.

  17. #42
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    I just had to send my Vans in because the damper side stanchion was creaking in the crown.

  18. #43
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    told you. lube that part from my previous post. and it might resolve your problem
    i am here only to gather knowledge and to offer to others what i know. no bullsht please,so stop wasting good bull !

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by null View Post
    told you. lube that part from my previous post. and it might resolve your problem
    maybe i will try your solution if im out of warranty...
    but i kind of have to agree with the guy above...
    why would fox be replacing the complete uppers(stanchions, crown, steer tube) on your fork if it is only a matter of lube?

  20. #45
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    because fox are professionals ! we are not. where is the diy spirit ? why fox states that you have to change seals at every oil change? because that is ideal ! i am at the third oil change with same seals and they are like new. no oil loss. think for yourself don't let a mamut company like fox think for you
    i am here only to gather knowledge and to offer to others what i know. no bullsht please,so stop wasting good bull !

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by null View Post
    fox do not do this diy stuff. because they are pro. that doesn't mean it is not safe. it is press fit yes but wit heat. you know expand/contract.... NO VOLUME of oil will cause the steerer to actualy MOVE ! oil is lubing only the lower part of it not the actually pressed one where there is no room for oil to penetreate because the surfaces are actualy "bond".

    i run 2 fox with lube in that area 3years each.and that is intense fr and urban riding and i am a 220 lbs animal a lots of stopie too (at each headlight and every halt brake actually)
    While I agree with you I'm still not sure...if there is creaking, there is movement. If there is movement the tolerances of the interference fit are off, i.e. the "bond" is incomplete. I agree that there is probably enough interference to prevent complete penetration of the oil, but there is a threshold at which the friction of the fit could be overcome.

    In the end it probably doesn't matter, the failure would likely a slight rotation of the steerer, no worse than having your stem twist a little. I doubt it would go completely loose all at once.

    Sorry, I'm done web-ineering now.
    "Always remember to be yourself. Unless you suck."
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  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by drsmonkey View Post

    Sorry, I'm done web-ineering now.
    No, I think that you are being smart and applying a bit of thought instead of a band-aid fix to a potentially serious problem.

  23. #48
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    a fork upercrown assembly CANNOT came apart and fall. unless there is a crack. but the pressed area cannot do that. if you se a cutaway of a uppercrown you will just know.
    i am here only to gather knowledge and to offer to others what i know. no bullsht please,so stop wasting good bull !

  24. #49
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    explain me,how this can just fall http://www.singletrackworld.com/wp-c...ay-600x396.jpg

    le: worst case scenario it will just spin ,like a loose stem. ok that is not cool but.. it is unlikely to hapen
    i am here only to gather knowledge and to offer to others what i know. no bullsht please,so stop wasting good bull !

  25. #50
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    I personally know someone who had a Fox 29'r Fork come loose. The stanchion was slowly working its way out of the crown. It was a little bit, but enough to start screwing up the fork and made him very nervous about riding it.

    My fork had the stanchions creeking not the steer tube.

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