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  1. #1
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    2011 Fox Fork Owners-Factory Oil Levels

    Anyone having issues with low bath oil levels from the factory, or has this issue pretty much been solved since the 2010 lineup? Sitting on a few parts on a build, and wondering if I should tear into this 2011 F120 FIT while I'm waiting, just to be sure (have a 2010 FIT with the low bath oil from the factory last season).
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  2. #2
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    Ride it for a little bit to break it in and then give it an oil change. I think that is what should be done regardless of whether the oil level is correct or not. If it works properly now I wouldn't take it apart just for the fact of checking the oil height until after riding it a few times. I have always found small metal particle in all my forks after the break in period.

  3. #3
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    Oil levels from the factory are still hit or miss. I'd recommend rebuilding it straight out of the box to make sure you have enough oil.

  4. #4
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    LMAO - all fork manufactures seem to ship with incorrect oil levels. First thing I do with any new fork is check the oil levels - so worth doing.

  5. #5
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    It's super easy to open up the lowers and add fluid without even taking off the lowers. I have a new 36-180 fork and will probably add a little bit just in case.
    "It looks flexy"

  6. #6
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    What's the least amount of tear down necessary to check the oil level in a new 2011 F100 Terralogic? Do I need to drain the factory oil out to check?
    Thanks.

  7. #7
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    You "check" it by replacing it.

  8. #8
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    Any idea if these instructions will also apply to a 2011 F100 Terralogic?

    http://service.foxracingshox.com/con...00RL_F80RL.htm

    I don't have the fork yet to compare too...

  9. #9
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    Yes, those instructions should work. I recommend installing Enduro seals at the same time.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad mechanic
    Yes, those instructions should work. I recommend installing Enduro seals at the same time.
    Can I ask why? Not because I'm questioning you, just curious. Obviously brand new would be the easiest time to do it,but I've also read that it's a good idea to ride the fork new to break it in, then change the oil/seals.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by cru_jones
    Can I ask why? Not because I'm questioning you, just curious. Obviously brand new would be the easiest time to do it,but I've also read that it's a good idea to ride the fork new to break it in, then change the oil/seals.
    Because the Fox seals aren't very good. They're a one piece wiper and oil seal, and do neither job well. This allows the bath oil to get out, and dirt to get in, which increases wear on the fork. Enduros use a dedicated wiper and a dedicated oil seal, both of which do their job very well. Ultimately, it's an easy way to protect your rather expensive investment.

    Enduros won't affect fork break in. The reason people say that is you want to change the oil after the fork's been broken in, so it's easy to just clump both together. However, since you're doing it out of the box, might as well do it now.

  12. #12
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    Can I/should I be ok running the "old" Fox 7wt (31.82 @ 40, 9.57 @ 100) when the 2011 Fox service guide calls for Fox 10wt "Green" (47.00 @ 40, 11.7 @ 100)?

    I have about 700ml of the Fox 7wt already...

    If it matters, this would be on a 2011 Terralogic F100; 145 lbs geared up and ride strictly XC.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2011 Fox Fork Owners-Factory Oil Levels-fox.jpg  


  13. #13
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    Because your fork is a FIT, the oil is just for lubrication purposes.

    What I am saying is it isn`t a problem using the old 7wt.

    On the other hand the new green 10wt is lab proven to reduce friction better than the older 7 and 10wt oils.
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  14. #14
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    Yes, your damper is sealed, so you're just changing the bath oil. I'd suggest using Mobil 1 for that since it's cheap and has better lubricating properties than suspension oil.

  15. #15
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    UPDATE.

    Got my Enduro seals and new oil today, so I tore the fork down. It was brand new out of the box, haven't even cut the steerer tube yet.

    The combined total of both open baths and the float fluid was between 15-20 mlůTOTAL. According to the oil volume tables, there should be 20mL in each O/B alone. Add 5mL float and it totals 45mLůmy fork had less than half of what the oil volume table says it should be.

    The Enduros went in fine, and I sent an informative email to Fox stating that paying this much for a fork shouldn't come with a need to re-oil it before use.

  16. #16
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    Just helped a friend do fluids in a 2009 32 Float RLC and the Fox fluid table calls for 5 ml float fluid in the air chamber, but when we dumped what was in there it was more like 25ml. Almost like the person who assembled it read the wrong column and put the 25ml called out for the lower. Seams strange. Funny think is I always thought his fork felt great, even better than my 08 36 float RC2. Maybe I should up the fluid in my air chamber to 25ml. Anyone seen this before?

  17. #17
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    You guys make it sound so easy. I have a brand new Tallboy with the F29 F100 FIT RLC fork. It has not been ridden yet and won't be for a few weeks. Should I check? What is the simplest way to check the oil levels.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by bushido5
    You guys make it sound so easy. I have a brand new Tallboy with the F29 F100 FIT RLC fork. It has not been ridden yet and won't be for a few weeks. Should I check? What is the simplest way to check the oil levels.

    Just drain and refill. It's easy to do.

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    Remove the air cap and lockout/low speed compression assembly, turn the bike upside down and drain from the top? Or disassemble and remove the lowers? Remove the rebound knob and drain from the bottom? Both? I understand the FIT cartridge has its own oil so we are talking about 30ml in the right leg and 30ml in the left leg plus 5ml in the air chamber.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by bushido5
    Remove the air cap and lockout/low speed compression assembly, turn the bike upside down and drain from the top? Or disassemble and remove the lowers? Remove the rebound knob and drain from the bottom? Both? I understand the FIT cartridge has its own oil so we are talking about 30ml in the right leg and 30ml in the left leg plus 5ml in the air chamber.
    You should really read, and re-read this site for information on how to do. I haven't done it yet, but it is indeed quite simple looking (though not as simple as you describe).

    Fox Service <---- CLICK

    That said, you should do it. I just had the oil changed in my 2011 Float RLC after about 25 hours of riding. I don't know what the oil levels were, but I know they are what they should be now and all I can say is WOW, what a huge improvement. Its how I envisioned this fork operating and was disappointed that it didn't . . . now its exactly what I was hoping for.

  21. #21
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    It's so easy you could do a simple drain and fill every ride if you wanted to. With the newer forks with the rebound knob you simply remove the rebound knob, the two nuts from the bottom holding everything together and use your hand to lightly tap on the crossbrace. You might have to use your socket with the nut mostly threaded on to tap the shafts loose... anyway, the oil will drain out the bottom. If your fork is new just refill, don't even pull the lowers off. I change mine more often then they say because it's just good for the fork. I also fill more than they say. You can fill a Fox with extra but don't try that with the Lyrik....
    "It looks flexy"

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by cru_jones
    The Enduros went in fine, and I sent an informative email to Fox stating that paying this much for a fork shouldn't come with a need to re-oil it before use.
    Response I got from FOX today:

    If the oil level on your damper was low, you would notice significant damping issues. The Terralogic function would not work or the rebound damping may also not work. It is highly unlikely that your damper does not have enough oil. Also, it is very difficult to measure the amount of bath oil that was originally installed in your fork as much of this oil will stick to the stanchions and inside of the lower legs. The only real way to measure the amount of bath oil is before it is installed.

    That's BS and they know it as well as I do. There is no way there was over 25mL of oil "stuck to the stanchions an inside the lower legs". Complete cop out. At least acknowledge that you have a problem.

    I understand that it's just lubrication, but don't state in your rework procedures how important the oil volumes are if your own assembly techs aren't doing it right.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by gticlay
    It's so easy you could do a simple drain and fill every ride if you wanted to. With the newer forks with the rebound knob you simply remove the rebound knob, the two nuts from the bottom holding everything together and use your hand to lightly tap on the crossbrace. You might have to use your socket with the nut mostly threaded on to tap the shafts loose... anyway, the oil will drain out the bottom. If your fork is new just refill, don't even pull the lowers off. I change mine more often then they say because it's just good for the fork. I also fill more than they say. You can fill a Fox with extra but don't try that with the Lyrik....
    Let me see if I finally got this.
    1- Remove Rebound adjuster, tap the nut and drain oil out of that hole
    2- Remove nut from LT side, tap the nut and drain oil out of that hole
    3- Remove Air cap, flip the fork upside down and drain oil from the top
    4- Remove RT side top cap(lockout),
    5- Fill LT side thru hole in bottom, install nut
    6- Fill top LT (5cc), install Air cap and pump up
    7- Fill Rt thru the top, install top cap(lockout)

    A few questions:
    1- Can you remove both lower nuts, separate both and drain both legs at same time?
    2- Can you then flip upside down, fill both legs with 30cc, reinstall both lower nuts?
    3- return fork to upright, remove air cap, drain and refill with 5cc?
    4- There is no need to remove lockout assembly? or does oil need to drain from top?

    Please make comments, fix, change, correct. I want to have a good understanding before I take it apart.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by bushido5
    Let me see if I finally got this.
    1- Remove Rebound adjuster, tap the nut and drain oil out of that hole
    2- Remove nut from LT side, tap the nut and drain oil out of that hole
    3- Remove Air cap, flip the fork upside down and drain oil from the top
    4- Remove RT side top cap(lockout),
    5- Fill LT side thru hole in bottom, install nut
    6- Fill top LT (5cc), install Air cap and pump up
    7- Fill Rt thru the top, install top cap(lockout)

    A few questions:
    1- Can you remove both lower nuts, separate both and drain both legs at same time?
    2- Can you then flip upside down, fill both legs with 30cc, reinstall both lower nuts?
    3- return fork to upright, remove air cap, drain and refill with 5cc?
    4- There is no need to remove lockout assembly? or does oil need to drain from top?

    Please make comments, fix, change, correct. I want to have a good understanding before I take it apart.

    I am going to copy this to the other thread regarding Fox oil levels also.
    1. Yes, you do both at the same time.
    2. Yes, I flip over and fill at the same time. (30cc may be correct for your fork, but it's different on each fork.....)
    3. You don't need to do the air 5cc stuff very often at all. I didn't just check but the service interval should be way longer for that.
    4. You don't even need to let the air out of the fork for the bath change.
    5. If you are waiting the full service interval, you will want to pull the lowers, clean the seals etc, but we are first talking about a new fork, secondly talking about maybe doing a mid interval quickie bath change (what I do these days).
    "It looks flexy"

  25. #25
    007
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    Quote Originally Posted by cru_jones
    If the oil level on your damper was low, you would notice significant damping issues. The Terralogic function would not work or the rebound damping may also not work.
    These are the EXACT issues that were resolved after an oil change in my Float (although I don't have the terralogic gizmo).

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