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  1. #1
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    2001 Marzocchi x fly problem Topping out

    I have a 2001 Marzocchi bomber x fly. I just had it rebuilt at my local bike shop and I am having issues with it topping out everytime I go over a bump. Since it only has air compression and no rebound adustment, how do i keep it from coming back so fast? It makes a clunk sound when it comes back. I tried lowering the compression pressure but no luck. ANY SUGGESTIONS???? I read something about changing the viscosity of the oil....Or should i just get a new fork?

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    Quote Originally Posted by gregatm
    I have a 2001 Marzocchi bomber x fly. I just had it rebuilt at my local bike shop and I am having issues with it topping out everytime I go over a bump. Since it only has air compression and no rebound adustment, how do i keep it from coming back so fast? It makes a clunk sound when it comes back. I tried lowering the compression pressure but no luck. ANY SUGGESTIONS???? I read something about changing the viscosity of the oil....Or should i just get a new fork?
    Your terminology is misleading. There is no such thing as compression pressure.

    You have an air fork, right? Which means it has an air spring. It is the part to which you attach a pump and inflate to a desired pressure. Is that what you're calling compression pressure?

    And your fork ought to have rebound adjustment. It is this tiny screw in the center of the top cap. It is adjusted with a flat head screwdriver.

    Take a look at this manual: http://www.wrower.pl/instrukcje/Marz...1-x-fly-80.pdf

    If it doesn't, it might mean your fork isn't the Xfly. You may have an internally adjusted rebound, which you adjust with a special long hex rod. Alternatively, you'll need to replace the oil you have in there now with a heavier oil.

    _MK
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    Sorry I am not very acquainted with the fork terminology. My forks are indeed xflys. When I adjust the rebound screw with a flat head nothing happens, except oil comes out and a few bubbles. Is this supposed to happen? I am not sure if the rebound mechanism in the hydraulic cartridge is malfunctioning or what?
    Last edited by gregatm; 10-18-2006 at 01:28 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gregatm
    Sorry I am not very acquainted with the fork terminology. My forks are indeed xflys. When I adjust the rebound screw with a flat head nothing happens, except oil comes out and a few bubbles. What exactly does this mean? Should I change the oil to a thicker oil?
    How much are you turning it? Have you tried turning it all the way clockwise until it stops?

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    yeah that helped the rebound but its leaking black stuff when i compress the fork....and then I lose all the air pressure out of my right fork. You can hear the oiling and air bubbling out. How do you reseal that?


    Also, Is there any specific pressure you should put in either fork....should you keep them the same or is one supposed to be higher than the other. Does anyone have a chart?
    Last edited by gregatm; 10-18-2006 at 01:51 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gregatm
    yeah that helped the rebound but its leaking black stuff when i compress the fork....and then I lose all the air pressure out of my right fork. You can hear the oiling and air bubbling out. How do you reseal that?


    Also, Is there any specific pressure you should put in either fork....should you keep them the same or is one supposed to be higher than the other. Does anyone have a chart?
    Each leg of the fork is a tine, but noone really used that term. Typically just leg is what one would refer to.

    Anywho, onto the important matter. If there is black stuff coming out when you increase the rebound, what exactly did your shop do to rebuild the fork? Fresh oil is a transparent liquid with a slight tint of say blue or green. Black stuff indicates old, dirty oil. There could be a seal that has worn, also, which causes the leak. Again, what did your shop do to rebuild your fork?

    As of the pressures. I've always ran them about equal. They are the same size air volumes, therefore running one higher than the other won't give you much in terms of tuning.

    _MK
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    I know they replaced the seals that are available from the Marzocchi website. They gave me the old seals and the package for the new ones. They are the inch wide ones that remain in the legs and seal the sanctions. I did see clear oil coming up the sanctions right when they gave it back to me. I bet they pretty much gave it an oil change and replaced the seals. I don't know if they did anything to the hydraulic cartridge. Would black oil still leak out the rebound screw if the oil was changed?

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    Quote Originally Posted by gregatm
    I know they replaced the seals that are available from the Marzocchi website. They gave me the old seals and the package for the new ones. They are the inch wide ones that remain in the legs and seal the sanctions. I did see clear oil coming up the sanctions right when they gave it back to me. I bet they pretty much gave it an oil change and replaced the seals. I don't know if they did anything to the hydraulic cartridge. Would black oil still leak out the rebound screw if the oil was changed?
    Check out this site: http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id3.html

    When you'll look at photo 32, you'll see two o-rings. One on the outside of the top cap, the other on the outside of the inner rod. It is possible these crapped out during reassembly as they were old. These can be easily replaced by either calling Marzocchi and ordering them or by going to a hardware store and getting some in the plumbing section.

    As of the black stuff. If I recall correctly, the air and the damping oil share the same space, therefore I suspect that whoever performed your oil change didn't purge the oil out of the damper during the service. This means that a lot of old, dirty oil has mixed with the fresh oil, and you effectively have dirty oil again.

    _MK
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregatm
    I know they replaced the seals that are available from the Marzocchi website. They gave me the old seals and the package for the new ones. They are the inch wide ones that remain in the legs and seal the sanctions. I did see clear oil coming up the sanctions right when they gave it back to me. I bet they pretty much gave it an oil change and replaced the seals. I don't know if they did anything to the hydraulic cartridge. Would black oil still leak out the rebound screw if the oil was changed?

    There is a stop nut on the rebound shaft that allows you to set how deep it goes into the top nut.

    If you (the shop) rebuilt the fork but set up this stop nut so that the shaft does not go deep enough into the top nut (when the rebound is screwed all the way in) the O-ring that seals the top end of the rebound rod will be lower than the bottom of the hole in the top cap that it is supposed to seal when it is all the way in, and it will squirt oil and lose air.

    I used to have that fork, and made the same mistake myself. You just need to pay attention when putting it back together. I am guessing this is what your problem is.

    You should be able to set the rebound all the way closed (screwed all the way in) and not be losing air pressure or squirting oil. It is an easy fix. Also check to make sure the o-ring is in good shape like MK said.
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    thanks for the help

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