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  1. #1
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    2001 Manitou Shock Q's?

    I jsut got a new to me specialized fsr I have ridden it 3 time's now on the trails since i got it on last saturday. It has a 2001 Manitou shock Im not sure the exact model hence why im posting in this section. Heres a couple pics to help identify


    On the first two rides I noticed when going faster the front end seemed very ridid, stiff, and there seemed to be no dampenig going on. I went to a cycle shop and they told me its old and f***ed and i need to replace it. But fireball_jones sent me a link that explaned the adjustments and shazam this morning's ride was awesome and I pushed it a little harder then the last couple days also. Thanks again jones.\
    But onto my question What are the maintenece procedures on shocks like these? Service at certain year intervals? When it feels sh***y? Do you replace oil? Seals? Bushings?
    Mind you this is the first bike ive had and ridden in about ten years. But in that time I was heavy into the off road race scene open desert and short coarse. MDR, SNORE, MORE, Baja Cup(at glen helen). Ive worked at a couple fab shops and was crew chief for a jeep speed for Layton racing. I have a pretty good sense of how things should probaly feel. I would like to get these a nice rebuild if possible from what I understand getting a similar replace ment will be some big bucks well for me at least.

  2. #2
    rebmem rbtm
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    It has a 2001 Manitou shock Im not sure the exact model hence why im posting in this section.
    It's a X-Vert DC

    There's some Owners & Service Manuals on the following links you might be interested in (probably the same manuals on all of the links).

    Spoke N' Word Cycles: Service Documents
    Index of /answer manitou
    Birota*

  3. #3
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    Excellent fork those, I bought one in 2000 which still gets ridden occasionally. I stretched mine out to 145mm. I only removed it from my main bike to get a 20mm front axle.

    The spring side has some short bits of MCU foam in there, after a while they pack down. When this happens, take them out, put them in a glass of water and microwave them for a minute. They heat up and return to their original shape.
    The lowers are lubed by grease injection. If you haven't got a grease gun for them then just pull the lowers every 6 months or so, clean and regrease with slick honey.

    The damper oil doesn't need changed, just check the level is about 1 inch higher than the top compression piston. The oil in mine is still bright and clear.
    www.dougal.co.nz Suspension setup & tuning.
    www.shockcraft.co.nz Bike Bearings, Seals & Custom Hardware
    SPV Devolve

  4. #4
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    thanks Cobba for the links thats just what i wanted.
    And dougal i will be sure to use the micro trick on the foam.

    Im probably going to tear down and rebuild them. Im just one of those people that like my stuff to be mechanically sound and in perfect operating order. Even if i dont notice a difference I like knowing that my stuff is as good as it can be.

  5. #5
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    These are dead easy to work on. It takes longer to remove and reset your disc brakes than it does to remove the lower legs. With V brakes it's even quicker.
    www.dougal.co.nz Suspension setup & tuning.
    www.shockcraft.co.nz Bike Bearings, Seals & Custom Hardware
    SPV Devolve

  6. #6
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    dougal any chance you have a link to a rebuild kit I can buy. Im assuming they would include o-ring's, bushings, seals....

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by gigerrider View Post
    dougal any chance you have a link to a rebuild kit I can buy. Im assuming they would include o-ring's, bushings, seals....
    I have oring and seal kits. But unless one of the seals has been damaged by an incompetent mechanic (i.e. muppet wrenched) you won't need any parts beyond grease and some 5wt oil.

    The lower legs are just grease, so the wiper seals aren't under any pressure and don't leak. Keep the boots, they do an excellent job of keeping crud off the stanchions.
    The oil is all contained in the right stanchion tube and only has one moving seal which lasts a long time. If it does leak oil you'll notice grease in the lower right leg is very runny.
    www.dougal.co.nz Suspension setup & tuning.
    www.shockcraft.co.nz Bike Bearings, Seals & Custom Hardware
    SPV Devolve

  8. #8
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    Ok im about to tear into the forks. on the manual links I noticed that the dual crown in the exploded view is not quite the same on the out side. Are the internals the same? Am I just over thinking this? haha

  9. #9
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    can I use rock shox or fox oil? or is there a certain one for manitou shocks

  10. #10
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    What manual do you have?
    2000 & 2001 Xverts are identical other than a few cosmetic touches. Exploded Diagrams should be the same.
    Page 6 of this manual works but the quality is poor. http://www.spoke-n-word-cycles.com/T...e%20Manual.pdf
    This manual doesn't have your exact fork exploded view but is higher quality. The Xvert single crown fork has the same internals, just the springs and damper rods aren't as long. The individual details are shown later in the manual.
    http://www.spoke-n-word-cycles.com/T...e%20Manual.pdf

    Fox and Rockshox just repackage motorcycle fork oil. Any good 5wt will do. If it's still clear and clean then I wouldn't bother changing the oil. Get some slick honey (aka slickoleum) for greasing the bushings.
    www.dougal.co.nz Suspension setup & tuning.
    www.shockcraft.co.nz Bike Bearings, Seals & Custom Hardware
    SPV Devolve

  11. #11
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    the one posted bu cobba

  12. #12
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    I got the spring side all cleaned and re-greased.

    The oil on the dampening side looks pretty clean. I ordered some rock shox 5wt from e-bay should be here next week

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