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  1. #1
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    Caution;  Merge;  Workers Ahead! '07 Marzocchi 66 rc2x. Binding after rebuild. Feels bushing related

    First off please understand, I know how to rebuild these; I have an 06 that Iíve rebuilt 3 times and have rebuilt a buddyís rc2x twice so Iím pretty positive this is not an oil height, seal stiction, compression/air adjustment, or cartridge primed issue.

    Iíve got an í07 66 rc2x that I just rebuilt (bought used so there is a bit of history on it).

    At first I rebuilt the fork using new OEM Marz seals bought from my LBS (oil was leaking out one seal pretty good). Thoroughly cleaned and put everything back together with new seals and the fork felt great when actuating it against the ground. Put the fork back on the bike and called it a day.

    The next day I went to do more work on the bike and noticed the fork ďstickingĒ (remember itís on the bike at this point). It didnít feel like the typical seal stiction, this was more like a binding. When I push down slowly on the bars the fork sticks, if I rapidly compress up and down the fork it seems to break the static friction and glide free, however if I let it sit for a minute or so itíll stick again.

    So the next thing I did was ordered some different seals from Enduro (which is what I use for all my other rebuilds) thinking the marz seals were causing a problem. Nope, same thing with the Enduro seals.

    Iíve taken the fork on and off the bike a couple times and it always feels fine off the bike when I push straight up and down on it. Itís when I put it on the bike that it wants to bind. I assume this is because the line of action through the travel is not true vertical due to the head angle so if any binding were to occur this is where youíd notice it.

    At this point Iím wondering if the bushings need replacement. There seems to be some fore/aft play between the uppers and lowers if I grab front brake and rock the bike back and forth while feeling where the seals touch the stanchions but nothing major; if anything I may be imagining it...

    I also took the bike down to my LBS where some very competent fork mechanics work. Both lead mechanics confirmed thereís something NOT right. Neither thinks itís the seals since I replaced them twice with similar results. But neither have ever felt this sort of binding in an rc2x; or any fork for that matter.

    Iím not sure why I never noticed the stiction before the rebuild, although I do recall it ďjust not feeling as goodĒ as my í06.

    This may potentially cost me a ton of money, primarily if I have the LBS replace the bushings only to have the problem still exist. So Iím asking the public if anyone has ever experienced this before so maybe I can offer some suggestions when I take it in.

    My LBS wants to take a closer look at it but suggested I tear it apart and bring it in stripped and drained of oil to save service costs. This is where I currently stand; ready to take it in later this week.

  2. #2
    maker of trail
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    You bought the fork used, did you ride it before you changed seals? Did it bind then?

    When I rebuilt my 07 888rc2x, I also notice some stiction if the fork had been sitting (ie any time before a ride), pumping it a few times got oil up into the bushings and all was good.

    Also the enduro seals did take a couple rides to bed in and were a little sticky to start.

    I would say that if the stiction goes away after a couple pumps, its most likely just "normal" open bath fork feeling, they need to move a bit to get lubrication back into all the right spots.

    If the bushings were done, the feeling would likely not go away.

  3. #3
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    Does it bind w/ the axle both installed and removed ? Thought I read somewhere the lowers on certain Marz's were not machined correctly which could cause lowers to bind.

  4. #4
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    Does the stickiness only happen when force is applied that is not directly in line from crown to axle?

    Meaning on the bike there's some downward (wheel-outward?) flex that tries to happen but when testing off the bike I doubt the fork is flexed in this fashion.

    Just wondering if something could be marginally worn out internally (bushings? stantion?) what is causing some binding when slightly misaligned under force.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by essenmeinstuff
    You bought the fork used, did you ride it before you changed seals? Did it bind then?

    When I rebuilt my 07 888rc2x, I also notice some stiction if the fork had been sitting (ie any time before a ride), pumping it a few times got oil up into the bushings and all was good.

    Also the enduro seals did take a couple rides to bed in and were a little sticky to start.

    I would say that if the stiction goes away after a couple pumps, its most likely just "normal" open bath fork feeling, they need to move a bit to get lubrication back into all the right spots.

    If the bushings were done, the feeling would likely not go away.
    You bought the fork used, did you ride it before you changed seals? Did it bind then? I don't recall it specifically binding when I bought it. I do remember it not feeling as good as my other rc2x plus it had a leaky seal hence the overhaul. Now that it's rebuilt I may be a little hypersensitive to anything out of the ordinary but as I mentioned I took it into the LBS and both mechanics said something is wrong and appears to not be seal related.

    When I rebuilt my 07 888rc2x, I also notice some stiction if the fork had been sitting (ie any time before a ride), pumping it a few times got oil up into the bushings and all was good.That's normal, my '06 does that. The stiction in the other one is different. It almost feels like it's hydro locked if I slowly push down on it. If I rapidly bounce up and down it goes away for a moment but let it settle for another minute and it binds again

    Also the enduro seals did take a couple rides to bed in and were a little sticky to start.The fork was sticky even with the OE marzocchi seals when I first rebuilt it. In other words it sticks (binds) with OE marz seals and the enduro seals

    I would say that if the stiction goes away after a couple pumps, its most likely just "normal" open bath fork feeling, they need to move a bit to get lubrication back into all the right spots.I dont' think it's "normal" open bath fork feeling. My 06 is rock-solid money-feeling all day long. This one feels totally different.



    Quote Originally Posted by keen
    Does it bind w/ the axle both installed and removed ? Thought I read somewhere the lowers on certain Marz's were not machined correctly which could cause lowers to bind.
    I was told you should avoid trying to compress a fork w/o the axle in place that's just asking for bad stuff to happen.

    Quote Originally Posted by bear
    Does the stickiness only happen when force is applied that is not directly in line from crown to axle?

    Meaning on the bike there's some downward (wheel-outward?) flex that tries to happen but when testing off the bike I doubt the fork is flexed in this fashion.

    Just wondering if something could be marginally worn out internally (bushings? stantion?) what is causing some binding when slightly misaligned under force.
    Yes, as explained in the first post.
    With the fork off the bike and pushing straight vertical on the fork it feels fine.
    With the fork ON the bike and pushing on the bars it binds.

    It also doesn't return smoothly either.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlippinSweet
    It also doesn't return smoothly either.
    I wonder if it's "something in the primary damper" - like if you pulled the rc2 cartridge out (or just popped the top cap as it were) would the fork move smoothly.

    I guess it's possible on the left side cartridge too, but I just don't feel like it as likely.

    Good luck though. Bummer frustration level. I'd certainly not ride the fork for fear of damaging something.

  7. #7
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    Take it apart and check whether the lowers are twisted, and whether the stanchions are twisted or bent (with a good straight edge).

    Also check that the aluminum washer on top of each cartridge (held on by a circlip) is still there and not cracked, and that the damper rod runs fairly smoothly through the cartridge.

    And check if the springs bind against the spring seats at the bottom, and if so file down the seats so there is a little bit of wiggle room.

  8. #8
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    Quote:
    Originally Posted by keen
    Does it bind w/ the axle both installed and removed ? Thought I read somewhere the lowers on certain Marz's were not machined correctly which could cause lowers to bind.

    I was told you should avoid trying to compress a fork w/o the axle in place that's just asking for bad stuff to happen.

    Who fed you that one ? It's not made of tin foil and you are not putting full body weight on the fork... I hope .Pull the spring out to properly gauge the stichion then. As a poster mentioned afterward they had some "twisted lowers" on some forks.

  9. #9
    staike
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    Quote Originally Posted by keen View Post
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by keen
    Does it bind w/ the axle both installed and removed ? Thought I read somewhere the lowers on certain Marz's were not machined correctly which could cause lowers to bind.

    I was told you should avoid trying to compress a fork w/o the axle in place that's just asking for bad stuff to happen.

    Who fed you that one ? It's not made of tin foil and you are not putting full body weight on the fork... I hope .Pull the spring out to properly gauge the stichion then. As a poster mentioned afterward they had some "twisted lowers" on some forks.


    He compressed it without axle and crowns.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by staikeinthahood View Post


    He compressed it without axle and crowns.

    Now that was dumb OP has a single crown fork not a DC which I was referencing.

  11. #11
    staike
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    Yeah, I know. It was just to give an idea of how fragile the bridge actually is. I'm sure you've heard of forks being bent during shipping (w/o axle).

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