[advice] Convert to 36 160 Vanilla or 36 160 FIT Float? (from TALAS FIT RLC)
Hey guys, I'm looking to get just overall better performance/plushness out of my fork. I have a '11 TALAS FIT RLC (kash), hasn't been serviced for about a year and a half (probably about 30-40 rides at least).
I want to improve small bump compliance, plushness, activeness on the repeated roots and rocks (and overall fun factor). I don't do jumps, so my riding style is just get to the bottom of the mountain as fast as can with both tires down, railing as much as I can. I also suck at climbs, I just man up to get to the top (horribly at that), but that is typically proportional to how fit I am in the year. I also ride downie / northstar a few times a year as well, but most of my riding includes climbing local bay area trails. I'm riding a Mojo HD with a rp23 kash.
I was looking at a couple of options,
1) [service TALAS RLC] service of changing out fluids, seals, and possibly going for a lower weight in the FIT damper itself.
2) [convert to vanilla] while keeping the RLC
3) [convert to float] while keeping the RLC
What do you guys think would be the best change? Servicing would be the cheapest, but since it's getting opened up, I wouldn't mind spending the extra bucks to convert.
The vanilla will put be 1/4lb heavier than where I am at now (30.5 lbs total), and about 1/2lb heavier than the float. Will this be noticeable in my slow climbs anyways, and for my riding style will the feel/responsiveness/activeness be a more than adequate tradeoff for weight?
The float seems to give me the lightest option, would this be the best setup for me since it lightens the bike a bit (to help with climbs), and get the plushness and activeness that I'm looking for?
Thanks in advance! I'm still pretty new fork tuning and but I have fiddled alot with my LSC/rebound settings and got it to a spot where it's the most bearable now.
**also, would switching from vanilla back to float/talas be possible after the conversion? (internal stanchions will be OK?)
The Talas side has very little oil (15ml) in the leg for lubrication to begin with. They usually need to be serviced about once a month as the oil goes down quickly.
Originally Posted by darnelli
Also all of my Fox forks have be shipped with lower oil levels. So you might be looking at a double whammy here.
Lower oil levels to begin with AND no servicing.
Try changing out the oil to see how the fork feels. If you still like it THEN switch it to a Float for a more tuneable fork.
You can't go from a Vanilla back to a Float as the spring scratches the air piston sealing surfaces. I think going back to Talas would be okay tho.
Niner WFO 650B
ah i see, OK that's good information, i'd actually be considering just converting to a straight up float then, since i can reverse it back to talas if i want
if the vanilla springs do scratch the sealing surfaces, can they be replaced or are the scratches present on the upper fork housing?
From what I remember in another thread the Vanilla's inside stantion don't get the smooth polishing that the Floats and Talas get
so a Vanilla can't be converted to an air system but you can go from air to spring. Once the insides of the stantions get potentially scratched
from the spring (if converted) then you would need new upper stantion crown unit at around $300+.
Niner WFO 650B
If you want to transform your riding, especially climbing and descending, get rid of the float out back. Thats going to hold you back more than the talas spring.
Originally Posted by One Pivot
what to swap it out with? i've heard shimming the rp23 kash with the fox spacers helps out with small bump compliance and progressiveness, but i don't know how much of an effect it would have on me (~180 geared up). is there any other tuning that i can do the rp23 to make it 'transform' the bike more? thanks for the response