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  1. #1
    mtbr member
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    XT Shifting Issue

    My mountain bike is equiped with full XT, dual control shifter (unfortunately not the brand new edition). For the past two years I have been reasonably happy with the way it performs.

    That was until I took my bike in for a full service a couple of months back. After the first ride I started to get a weird skipping in the middle three gear on the rear cog.

    To cut a long story short I have been in and out of the shop 4 times in the last 4 week. The guy at the shop has changed all the cables, rear cog, chain, middle chain ring, rear derailler and rear drop out. But I still have the problem of the chain skipping in the middle gears on the rear cog.

    I have been stumped by this problem for ages. They only thing I can think of is that the guy at the bike shop put on a SRAM rear cog and chain.

    From what I have been able to find on the internet this shouldn't be a problem. But for some reason it doesn't sit right with me.

    Has anyone else had issue with the compatability of SRAM cog/chain and Shimano rear deraillers?

    Cheers,

    SwissWill

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mtnkiwi's Avatar
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    Shimano likes you to stick with the same, but it really shouldn't matter. If all this stuff has been changed it shouldn't be happening, you basically have a brand new drive train. Your mechanic should be able to sort this after he has sold you all these parts! Good luck

  3. #3
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    Hey,

    Had a similar problem. Cassette and Chain XT 34 w/sram chain. This replaced my lx cassette and shimano chain.

    Had stiff links and skipping. Fixed the stiff links and replaced the middle ring with a FSA.
    More skipping!

    Switched chains to shimano xt and had a rear hub re-build. Pawls were worn (mavic crossland one year). Still skipped! Also had my rear hanger checked at this time.

    Lastly threw shimano 34 cassette away put on another XT cassette a 32 (all they had left).

    That did it. I have a theory that the pawls and stiff links contributed to damaging the rear cassette.Not sure...

    Have them check your hub, chain for stiff links and then finally the cassette. Maybe it is damaged. I have heard of some cassettes having some problems both shimano and sram.

  4. #4
    Vaginatarian
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    shimano had a problem with some of their middle chainrings, it has since been fixed but you need to order the new style xt

  5. #5
    PM Me for Wood Fenders
    Reputation: TrekJeff's Avatar
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    Oct 2006
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    You are talking about the three middle gears of your cassette right, not your crank? If it's the three middle cassette gears that should be an easy adjustment using your tensioner setting on your shifter pod. Once the upper and lower limits screws are set on your rear der, the fine tuning is just done with the tension scews up on the shifters, not the der it'self. I hope that fixes the problem, but if it does, never take your bike to that shop again, especially if that was the main problem to begin with. The full service package you recived should have accounted for the adjustments. I can set upper and lower on my rear with in ten minutes and have the centers tuned in on the fly. I've also found that the Shimano website very helpful for tech documents. The install guides tell you what set screw to turn to set your limits on your ders, brake tension on your levers ect. Very well diagramed and laid out.
    The wood is being bent! Let me know what you need!

  6. #6
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    I don't know what kind of frame you have, but some frames have a loop of housing that goes underneath the bottom bracket. If the housing was replaced in the coarse of your tune-up, it is possible that the peice of housing was cut too short and when your suspension moves it is pulling on the cable. I have seen it quite a few times on Specialized Enduros and Epics, but any bike with a loop under the bb is prone if the housing is cut too short.

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