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  1. #1
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    XT 1X10 issue, chain catching on cassette teeth

    I recently went from 2x9 to 1x10, using all XT components. The only part left from my original 9 speed drivetrain is the 32t chainring.

    It is working great, except for 2 small issues (well, 1 issue on two different cogs). Because of the chainline, the side of the chain is catching on the teeth while on the 11t or 36t cog. Here are a couple pictures and a video to show you what I mean:

    While on the 36t cog, the side of the chain catches on that same cog. It can get pretty annoying if I'm pushing hard uphill, while on flat ground (which I rarely am on that cog) it's not really noticeable. My riding buddies actually thought my chain was slipping a few times.



    While on the 11t cog, the chain catches on the 12t cog. This has only happened a couple times while actually pedaling forward, it's mostly obvious while backpedaling, not really a big deal, but still irritating. I took a video and photo of this one:



    Here's the video. It's most obvious from 20-25 seconds.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OezeLAOCVI

    Shimano was no help, they said there's no way to fix this, essentially it wasn't designed to be used with 1 chainring, only 2 or 3. But even if I threw my 22t ring back on and went back to 2x10, it would still happen. I have thought of a few options: 1) File the teeth causing the problem a bit 2) Try a SRAM cassette 3) Try a SRAM or KMC chain. I don't like option 2 or 3 because DynaSys was designed to work best with other DynaSys parts.

    Any ideas? Thanks!

  2. #2
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    Man, that's really weird. What size front chainring are you using? I'm running a 32t front with the same equipment and have zero problems whether it be at my home trails or at a Bike park. Maybe it's that ABP thing (just kidding...)
    "It looks flexy"

  3. #3
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    I get this on both my 1x9 set-ups - one (SR) with a 33T chainring and one (HT) with a 34T. It only happens on the 32T cassette sprocket, though. Since it only derails when the bike is pushed backwards, I consider it a non-issue.

    Shimano and SRAM will always say to use their own brand chains with their equipment. The KMC X-series chains shift more cleanly on Shimano cassettes than even the XTR chain. I don't know if KMC do a Dyna-Sys compatible chain yet, though.
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveUK
    I get this on both my 1x9 set-ups - one (SR) with a 33T chainring and one (HT) with a 34T. It only happens on the 32T cassette sprocket, though. Since it only derails when the bike is pushed backwards, I consider it a non-issue.

    Shimano and SRAM will always say to use their own brand chains with their equipment. The KMC X-series chains shift more cleanly on Shimano cassettes than even the XTR chain. I don't know if KMC do a Dyna-Sys compatible chain yet, though.
    It doesn't just happening when back pedaling on the 36t cog, it's much worse when pushing hard uphill, if it was just back pedaling, I wouldn't care so much, I could live with it.

  5. #5
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    What length are your chainstays? I'm using it on a Nomad2 so they are kinda long which would reduce the angles slightly.
    "It looks flexy"

  6. #6
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    Are you using a 10 speed chain and do you have it installed correctly? I believe Shimano 10 speed chains have to be run in a specific direction because the plates are different on each side.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by 661lee
    Are you using a 10 speed chain and do you have it installed correctly? I believe Shimano 10 speed chains have to be run in a specific direction because the plates are different on each side.
    What I was thinking as well.

    CN-HG94 HG-X 10-speed chain
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    Right side optimized for perfect front shifting at the chain rings
    Left side optimized for perfect rear shifting at the sprockets
    Excellent mud shedding thanks to the special outer link plate design
    Zinc-alloy plated
    Not compatible with 10-speed road chains!
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by gticlay
    What length are your chainstays? I'm using it on a Nomad2 so they are kinda long which would reduce the angles slightly.
    I'll measure this when I get home from work


    Quote Originally Posted by 661lee
    Are you using a 10 speed chain and do you have it installed correctly? I believe Shimano 10 speed chains have to be run in a specific direction because the plates are different on each side.
    Yup, double checked that, it's installed the correct way.

  9. #9
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    Did you ever figure this out? I'm guessing chainline? I rode my 1x10 XT setup again today and it's working awesome. Since it's muddy now, friggin hard to get up all the steep stuff. I might have to go to a 2x10 on that bike for the winter
    "It looks flexy"

  10. #10
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    Straz85,
    I have the exact same issue and it's very irritating. I'm going to try a 34t SS ring. Hopefully, this helps. Did you find a solution?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Straz85 View Post
    I recently went from 2x9 to 1x10, using all XT components. The only part left from my original 9 speed drivetrain is the 32t chainring.

    It is working great, except for 2 small issues (well, 1 issue on two different cogs). Because of the chainline, the side of the chain is catching on the teeth while on the 11t or 36t cog. Here are a couple pictures and a video to show you what I mean:

    While on the 36t cog, the side of the chain catches on that same cog. It can get pretty annoying if I'm pushing hard uphill, while on flat ground (which I rarely am on that cog) it's not really noticeable. My riding buddies actually thought my chain was slipping a few times.



    While on the 11t cog, the chain catches on the 12t cog. This has only happened a couple times while actually pedaling forward, it's mostly obvious while backpedaling, not really a big deal, but still irritating. I took a video and photo of this one:


    Shimano was no help, they said there's no way to fix this, essentially it wasn't designed to be used with 1 chainring, only 2 or 3. But even if I threw my 22t ring back on and went back to 2x10, it would still happen. I have thought of a few options: 1) File the teeth causing the problem a bit 2) Try a SRAM cassette 3) Try a SRAM or KMC chain. I don't like option 2 or 3 because DynaSys was designed to work best with other DynaSys parts.

    Any ideas? Thanks!
    Hi, i have the same issue with my bike, but unlike you my bike has the stock set up. Shimano SLX crankset and sram cassette (cant remember the model). It is irritating no matter how hard I try to adjust and tune the gears the problem still persist.
    How did you manage to fix this issue? Need help also and I really appreciate everything.

    Thanks in advance

  12. #12
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    FWIW, my current set up is a 34T e.13 chain ring, MRP chain guide, XT 11-36 cassette, XT long cage rear dérailleur, and an XT chain. I don't have any issues with the big cog but I have "grabbing" issues on the 11T cog.

    After reading your issues I don't think you are going to be able to fix the problem without changing something significant.

    1- Change your chainring size. I used to run a 32T middle chainring and it grabbed the big and little cogs. Going to a 34T alieveated the big cog issue. But I still have little cog issues.
    2- Change your chainring to the outside position on the crank. This will certainly cause issues with the big cog bit it could fix the small cog problem.
    3- Change the # of spacers btwn the drive side bearing and the frame. This will either increase or decrease your chain line.
    4- Do a combination of the above.

    Most importantly decide what gear you use most often and fix the grabbing issue with that cog. The 36T cog was more important so I learned to deal with the 11T issue.

    Overall 1x9 functioned better for me an 1x10 has. However, I've decided that i want more gears so I'm gonna try a 2x10 (38/26) setup using my old XT crankset. I'll let you know how it turns out.

  13. #13
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    Mine still works great with a 32 and 11-36 cassette on my Nomadc. No rubbing either direction.
    "It looks flexy"

  14. #14
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    Limit screws

    Hi there, I was having similar issues on my bike (3x10) when on the middle ring(32) with both the smallest (11) and biggest (36) cogs.
    Upon closer inspection it turned out to be both the lower and upper limit screws. Because of the tighter clearances on the dyna-sys casstte/chain it seems that a tiny little adjustment makes a big difference unlike 8 or 9sp systems.
    Other than that, your rear derailleur cage may be slightly bent or you may have a damaged pulley.

    Hope this helps.

  15. #15
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    Thanks for the info and advise, Ill try to do both if it will work.. I barely use the smallest chainring in the front so I guess Ill have to fix the middle and the biggest chainring issue.

  16. #16
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    OK, so I converted my XT triple crankset (9 speed) to a double (38/26 Blackspire 9/10 speed chainrings).

    Before I installed the derailleur I slapped the 38T chainring on to check my theory on a bigger chainring solving the "grabbing" issue on the 11T cog. Low and behold, I was wrong and it was still grabbing, although not as bad.

    After that, I finished up the full 2x10 conversion by installing 2 x .5mm spacers (in addition to the 2 X 5mm spacers between the frame and bottom bracket bearings), the front derailleur, shifter and 26T inner chain ring.

    The additional spacers helped a little bit more but the drive train was still hiccuping. I was disappointed but the 38/26 combo pedals beautifully (as long as I don't pedal backwards in the 11t cog).

    Then I read eyderman's post and decided to try adjusting my limit screws. Even though the chain still "grabs", this adjustment was by far the most helpful. Now my drivetrain runs almost better. Thanks eyderman I am finally content.

    FWIW, the Blackspire 38t middle and 26t inner coupled with a double front derailleur (M786) and 2x/3x front shifter (M780) on a 9 speed triple crankset (M770) work great. I'm very excited. I'll get back with y'all in a month or two to give a longer term update.

    **I know this is an XT 1x10 thread!!**

    My final conclusion to the "grabbing" situation stems from the cassette or the chain. I'm going to switch to a KMC chain soon. I probably won't opt for the SRAM rear cassette unless I switch over to SRAM completely.

    ps- A bent derailleur hanger is highly unlikely b/c I haven't really crashed this bike or abused the drivetrain by shifting under load.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ppfeifer View Post
    OK, so I converted my XT triple crankset (9 speed) to a double (38/26 Blackspire 9/10 speed chainrings).

    Before I installed the derailleur I slapped the 38T chainring on to check my theory on a bigger chainring solving the "grabbing" issue on the 11T cog. Low and behold, I was wrong and it was still grabbing, although not as bad.

    After that, I finished up the full 2x10 conversion by installing 2 x .5mm spacers (in addition to the 2 X 5mm spacers between the frame and bottom bracket bearings), the front derailleur, shifter and 26T inner chain ring.

    The additional spacers helped a little bit more but the drive train was still hiccuping. I was disappointed but the 38/26 combo pedals beautifully (as long as I don't pedal backwards in the 11t cog).

    Then I read eyderman's post and decided to try adjusting my limit screws. Even though the chain still "grabs", this adjustment was by far the most helpful. Now my drivetrain runs almost better. Thanks eyderman I am finally content.

    FWIW, the Blackspire 38t middle and 26t inner coupled with a double front derailleur (M786) and 2x/3x front shifter (M780) on a 9 speed triple crankset (M770) work great. I'm very excited. I'll get back with y'all in a month or two to give a longer term update.

    **I know this is an XT 1x10 thread!!**

    My final conclusion to the "grabbing" situation stems from the cassette or the chain. I'm going to switch to a KMC chain soon. I probably won't opt for the SRAM rear cassette unless I switch over to SRAM completely.

    ps- A bent derailleur hanger is highly unlikely b/c I haven't really crashed this bike or abused the drivetrain by shifting under load.
    They can be bent when new. Maybe check that with a tool at your shop.
    "It looks flexy"

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