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  1. #1
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    No good The Worst Shimano Hubs Ever - Shimano HB M475 VIAM



    I got this in a pair of WTB Speed Disc. Less than a year and they are fry. Stay away of this shimano crab. A hub from a walmart bike is much better...:
    Last edited by HTR4EVR; 01-06-2008 at 06:43 PM.

  2. #2
    ...idios...
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    How much of this did you do?

    What use is a philosopher who doesn't hurt anybody's feelings? -
    Diogenes


  3. #3
    Shortcutting Hikabiker
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    Those hubs are fine.

  4. #4
    Look at the time!
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    the problem (as with all low end shimano hubs) is that they usually come preadjusted with WAY too much bearing preload. An unsuspecting rider will not notice this until it is too late.

    Adjusted properly, they are ok. Although the "seals" do suck.
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  5. #5
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    It's a bad hub problem. I know bwcause the hubs I use in every ride are this:


    SHIMANO XT DISC M756 HUBS

    Never has a problem in years. But some ocasional riding with the M475 and they die. Not the best for Shimano. At least they are the same size of the SHIMANO XT DISC M756 HUBS, and I'm doing the replacement my selft.

  6. #6
    ballbuster
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    You realize....

    Quote Originally Posted by HTR4EVR
    It's a bad hub problem. I know bwcause the hubs I use in every ride are this:


    SHIMANO XT DISC M756 HUBS

    Never has a problem in years. But some ocasional riding with the M475 and they die. Not the best for Shimano. At least they are the same size of the SHIMANO XT DISC M756 HUBS, and I'm doing the replacement my selft.
    They are almost the same exact hub, right? QR is slightly different, races are slightly more polished. They shaved a small amout of weight off the hub body... and that is really about it.

    Since you didn't state what happened, If I were to guess, I would say your cones came loose and you rode it that way for a long time, and fried the races in the hub body. If you fried the cups and cones, you can replace them all for like $15. Freehub can be replaced for like $15.

  7. #7
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    They are not the same, not in quality. There is a difference when you open a XT from a Deore. There is a reason why you pay less or more. But it is just my opinion based on a bad experiece. The M475 is not as good as the XT.

  8. #8
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    So you're " " and " " because an M475 isn't as "good" and doesn't last as long as an XT? It didn't cross your mind to check more regularly a hub which has no rubber seals on the axle ends? It didn't occur to you that the low-end component might require more regular attention and servicing than a high-end one?

    "The M475 is not as good as the XT."

    And this annoys you? Have a word with yourself, eh?

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  9. #9
    Shortcutting Hikabiker
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    Haha of course they aren't as good as XT. I rode those 475s for 2 years never adjusted the cones once. For a budget hub they are great and easy to service if you do have any issues.

  10. #10
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    They can be ok for light riding, in my case the the free wheel dye in the first month with rides on flats fire roads and paved roads along the Santa Rosa river. No good. At least they worked good for you. In the positive side I got motivated to enter into wheel building and it has been easier than I though.

  11. #11
    ballbuster
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    Don't forget the marketing

    Quote Originally Posted by HTR4EVR
    They are not the same, not in quality. There is a difference when you open a XT from a Deore. There is a reason why you pay less or more. But it is just my opinion based on a bad experiece. The M475 is not as good as the XT.
    As somebody who has clocked about 3000 miles on a set of those exact XTs, and about 1000 on that same Deore, and have had both apart to service them including servicing both freehubs, I can tell you there is not much difference. There are a few differences, but not nearly as big as you think. Maybe that rubber outer seal doober, but I think my Deore had that on there too. I dunno, that was a few years ago. I could be wrong.

    If you know what the differences are, why don't you share them with us?

    Heck, I got my Deore from a swap meet from somebody who was throwing a wheel out because two spokes were broken and the bearings were seized from misadjustment, neglect and grit. I replaced the cones and balls (to the tune of about $15), replaced two spokes and rode it another 1000 miles before giving it to a friend. He put it on his bike that was ripped off a month later. That thing just wouldn't die.

    My only gripes with Shimano hubs is that they are not terribly stiff (as in they twist in the fork and rear triangle under big side loads), and they are kinda heavy.

    Beotch and moan as you see fit, but I'm telling you, there are zillions of those same exact hubs spinning worry free out there. If you did get a bad one, and it is bad by no fault of your own, it is a complete freak occurrence.

    You still have not mentioned what went wrong with your hub. You said 'They are fry'. Do you mean you fried the bearings? You broke the freehub pawls? The Freehub locked up? Any of those problems are a $15-$20 fix. Oh, and ask your LBS what parts to replace them with. You'll find they use the exact same parts for XT and Deore.

    $15 and spend a little time fixing them is much nicer than spending $35 for a set of new spokes and $45 for each hub... or paying the LBS $50 to lace it up for you.

    The things are dead simple. I'm telling you... you can fix it. Go read Sheldonbrown.com and get an education in bike stuff.
    Last edited by pimpbot; 01-06-2008 at 08:18 PM.

  12. #12
    ballbuster
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    Okay...

    Quote Originally Posted by HTR4EVR
    They can be ok for light riding, in my case the the free wheel dye in the first month with rides on flats fire roads and paved roads along the Santa Rosa river. No good. At least they worked good for you. In the positive side I got motivated to enter into wheel building and it has been easier than I though.
    ... I just saw your post on your freehub pawls breaking. New freehub - $20, and you can do it yourself with a 10mm allen wrench.

    Did I mention the Deore uses the same exact freehub as the XT? You don't believe me, look it up on the Shimano website.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot
    ... I just saw your post on your freehub pawls breaking. New freehub - $20, and you can do it yourself with a 10mm allen wrench.

    Did I mention the Deore uses the same exact freehub as the XT? You don't believe me, look it up on the Shimano website.
    Yes, you are right, but I got a free hub replacement from Jenson and did not solve the other noises. . I had other problems with the hubs. I already got my XT hubs and I'm redoing the WTB Speed Disc rims with them. But thank you for the suggestion. I have better wheels on my bike any way, I took off the WTB SD out of my bike many months ago, they are going to be my extra set of wheels for my two bikes.

    It is not a problem that is affecting my riding now, I just want to share my displeasure with the hubs in question.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot
    As somebody who has clocked about 3000 miles on a set of those exact XTs, and about 1000 on that same Deore, and have had both apart to service them including servicing both freehubs, I can tell you there is not much difference. There are a few differences, but not nearly as big as you think. Maybe that rubber outer seal doober, but I think my Deore had that on there too. I dunno, that was a few years ago. I could be wrong.

    If you know what the differences are, why don't you share them with us?

    Heck, I got my Deore from a swap meet from somebody who was throwing a wheel out because two spokes were broken and the bearings were seized from misadjustment, neglect and grit. I replaced the cones and balls (to the tune of about $15), replaced two spokes and rode it another 1000 miles before giving it to a friend. He put it on his bike that was ripped off a month later. That thing just wouldn't die.

    My only gripes with Shimano hubs is that they are not terribly stiff (as in they twist in the fork and rear triangle under big side loads), and they are kinda heavy.

    Beotch and moan as you see fit, but I'm telling you, there are zillions of those same exact hubs spinning worry free out there. If you did get a bad one, and it is bad by no fault of your own, it is a complete freak occurrence.

    You still have not mentioned what went wrong with your hub. You said 'They are fry'. Do you mean you fried the bearings? You broke the freehub pawls? The Freehub locked up? Any of those problems are a $15-$20 fix. Oh, and ask your LBS what parts to replace them with. You'll find they use the exact same parts for XT and Deore.

    $15 and spend a little time fixing them is much nicer than spending $35 for a set of new spokes and $45 for each hub... or paying the LBS $50 to lace it up for you.

    The things are dead simple. I'm telling you... you can fix it. Go read Sheldonbrown.com and get an education in bike stuff.
    The berings never ran smoth, always sound crushing inside the hub and funny movement in the free hub.Any way has been good to read all you wrote about the parts, is always nice to here from people with knowledge.

    And maybe I got the bad ones,I never had that experience with shimano hubs before and I have use must of them.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot
    As somebody who has clocked about 3000 miles on a set of those exact XTs, and about 1000 on that same Deore, and have had both apart to service them including servicing both freehubs, I can tell you there is not much difference. There are a few differences, but not nearly as big as you think. Maybe that rubber outer seal doober, but I think my Deore had that on there too. I dunno, that was a few years ago. I could be wrong.

    If you know what the differences are, why don't you share them with us?

    Heck, I got my Deore from a swap meet from somebody who was throwing a wheel out because two spokes were broken and the bearings were seized from misadjustment, neglect and grit. I replaced the cones and balls (to the tune of about $15), replaced two spokes and rode it another 1000 miles before giving it to a friend. He put it on his bike that was ripped off a month later. That thing just wouldn't die.

    My only gripes with Shimano hubs is that they are not terribly stiff (as in they twist in the fork and rear triangle under big side loads), and they are kinda heavy.

    Beotch and moan as you see fit, but I'm telling you, there are zillions of those same exact hubs spinning worry free out there. If you did get a bad one, and it is bad by no fault of your own, it is a complete freak occurrence.

    You still have not mentioned what went wrong with your hub. You said 'They are fry'. Do you mean you fried the bearings? You broke the freehub pawls? The Freehub locked up? Any of those problems are a $15-$20 fix. Oh, and ask your LBS what parts to replace them with. You'll find they use the exact same parts for XT and Deore.

    $15 and spend a little time fixing them is much nicer than spending $35 for a set of new spokes and $45 for each hub... or paying the LBS $50 to lace it up for you.

    The things are dead simple. I'm telling you... you can fix it. Go read Sheldonbrown.com and get an education in bike stuff.

    While the guts of both the deore and xt hubs look very similar there is actually differences that effect longevity rather than weight. in the XT you'll find more true bearings, harder cones that are higher polished and the xt does also have better seals. not to mention the xt free hub will take a lot more abuse. the deore isn't a bad hub, however it wont hold up like a xt will. with any loose ball hub you'll need to properly adjust the cones out of the box if you intend for them to last longer than 1 season.

  16. #16
    fan of maple syrup
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    Interestingly enough, I have just handed my rear wheel into the LBS to get rebuilt due to it constantly breaking spokes at the nipple, plus the hub - a HB-M535 - has a bit of play in it (they told me when dropping it off it's probably just the cones and that it needs a bit of adjusting). In any case, the breaking spokes and this hub problem make the only 2 things to go wrong with this wheel.

    However, in order to keep riding while the wheel is getting rebuilt, I got the wheel off my old bike which has the same cassette and rotor, and noticed it's a HB-M475 - the very hub that's the topic of this thread. I rode that bike for 2 years every weekend (aggressive XC) and commuted 2 -3 days a week, and never once had a problem with the hubs - with zero maintenance. I even used to clean it with my high pressure cleaner before being told this wasn't the best thing to do.

    So yeah, no complaints from me for these hubs.

    I'll be interested to see how it goes this weekend on a much beefier full suspension bike.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot
    ... I just saw your post on your freehub pawls breaking. New freehub - $20, and you can do it yourself with a 10mm allen wrench.

    Did I mention the Deore uses the same exact freehub as the XT? You don't believe me, look it up on the Shimano website.

    as somebody that regularly works on bikes and orders on QBP the deore and xt free hub bodies are not the same, they are interchangeable however. deore free hub retails for about 20 bucks, xt retails for about 40.

  18. #18
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    Do the HB M525 hubs have about the same guts as the M475? I keep reading bad reviews on them but I think that when failure happens it is much more likely to pop up on a review. Who knows how many are out there getting beat to crap without maintenance and surviving fine.

  19. #19
    Any given singletrack!
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    Well, I had 475 rear hub on both my last bikes and never had problems. The first one lasted 10000 km (6250miles) with one overhaul and then the bike got stolen. Second rear 475 hub is still on my current bike and has around 6000km (3750 miles). I overhauled it last summer. It's a 30min job to open it, clean and put fresh grease. Works perfectly. Don't understand what's the fuss about...

  20. #20
    Any given singletrack!
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    Quote Originally Posted by calvus
    Do the HB M525 hubs have about the same guts as the M475? I keep reading bad reviews on them but I think that when failure happens it is much more likely to pop up on a review. Who knows how many are out there getting beat to crap without maintenance and surviving fine.
    True. It's strange that when something works perfectly people tend not to talk about it. But when it stops working, they are loud as they can be. Read my upper post.

  21. #21
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    I changed the hubs my self and my new XTs are running smooth....

  22. #22
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    these hubs do suck. I need to change out my rear hub.

  23. #23
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    So wait, the cheaper M475's are NOT as good as the more expensive XT hubs!?

  24. #24
    Underweight Rider
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    Yes that why they make the more expensive XT? ironic huh.

  25. #25
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    I have yet to see ONE single M475 warranty or service issue. A lot are over tightened but not as badly as the hubs used in STA-TRU wheels (blah!).
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  26. #26
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    bad hub

    okey i agreee with u ... the hub aint good! i've changed mine twice in two months now... Next time i'm buying a better hub!

  27. #27
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    475s are generally awful, we used to sell many many bikes with these hubs, and for customers they are not really a fit and forget item! They seem to develop play very easily, and customers dont notice until its too late...... we had so many gt ruckus, and various other xc bikes back with these hubs knacked.

  28. #28
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    From the OP - "Stay away of this shimano crab".

    Just because your hub has STDs does NOT mean they're lousy. Watch how you treat that axle and balls and you will probably avoid such problems in the future..
    Full disclosure; I sell and repair bikes for a living: http://blackstonebicycles.blogspot.com/

  29. #29
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    My front hub is still working great today, but the rear was finished about 3 months after I bought my bike. This was all dry desert riding with no mud or water.

  30. #30
    No, that's not phonetic
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    Sorry, but the 475 hubs are garbage. There is no (real) sealing. You have to repack them all the time. On a relatively new rear hub the sleeve that holds the freehub to the hub shell just stripped the threads out of the hub shell, so now the freehub falls off. WTF?? XT hubs actually work pretty well. I would not buy below XT under any circumstances.
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  31. #31
    Hic-A-Doo-La!
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbdee
    From the OP - "Stay away of this shimano crab".

    Just because your hub has STDs does NOT mean they're lousy. Watch how you treat that axle and balls and you will probably avoid such problems in the future..
    Shimano crabs are THE WORST! Almost impossible to get rid of

  32. #32
    kevboz
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    Where can I get a rebuild kit for these online? I checked with my LBS and they didn't even have the 1/4" bearings. I'd rather just order it online and do it myself.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevboz
    Where can I get a rebuild kit for these online? I checked with my LBS and they didn't even have the 1/4" bearings. I'd rather just order it online and do it myself.

    Time to find a new bike shop
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  34. #34
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    M475 hubs are often described as Deore, but they are not - no rubber seals to keep dirt and water out. The result is that, if used off road, they wear out very quickly - the bearings get noisy and spindles wear loose! I just bought M525s to rebuild my wheels and so i can re-use my spokes. The M525 looks the same as the M475, but do have the rubber seals, not steel ones. I bought my wheels secondhand and were only a few months old. The bearings were rusty, so I replaced them. No more than 100 miles later they are shot again. Conversely, I have other hubs with good seals that have lasted 10 years.

    I contacted Shimano about the confusion over these hub types, but they refused to do anything about the retailers describing these M475s or acknowledge the confusion.

    I really don't understand why Shimano would put their name to a mountain bike hub that is unsuited to typical mountain bike use - offroad.

    There is an easy way to identify these hubs - If it hasn't got "Deore" written on the hub body, it's an M475

    Give M475s a wide berth!

  35. #35
    the UPhill machine
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    Sorry to but into the conversation but does anyone know how much the M475 actually weighs?
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  36. #36
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    I've owned the XT M756, Deore M525, and M475 and I would agree that the M475 is pure rubbish.

    The problem is the seals, or lack there of. Basically, Shimano appears to have put the same lightweight seals as come on their ROAD HUBS. The M475's came stock on a Kona Stinky I owned and had to be repacked after just about every wet ride. Even using a waterproof marine grease was of little help. After two months, I got rid of them and got a wheelset with the M756 and did my standard once a year overhaul. The XT's never blinked at the sight of wet rides with a good marine grease in them. The M525's I owned were also better in the wet with the improved seals, though obviously not as smooth as the XT's.

    It still pisses me off that Kona...a NW company and one that I respect, would put such a hub on their bikes. They'd be better off putting a Formula or Quando with decent seals on their bikes than the M475

  37. #37
    namagomi
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    My front hub(m475) lasted one month of salty winter commuting, ball bearings are rusted and race is rusted.. had good marine grease in there also. The trouble is these hubs have only one measly seal which worked about as well as Paris Hilton's chastity belt!

    Anybody know an easy way to add more sealing or a hub i can swap in easily?
    Last edited by electrik; 01-16-2010 at 03:12 PM.

  38. #38
    yorkshire mud monkey
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    here my one cent worth..had the hubs on since i got my cannondale rize that was 1year ago only greased them once well ok not grease, i used vasoline and they have been fine.after the rebuild i did cover everything in vasoline so crap wouldnt get in so maybe thats protected them a bit longer,iam moving on to nuke proof hubs soon see if the bearings on them last.
    as steve said "As long as the rotor/rivets clears the fork, a miss is as good as a mile"

  39. #39
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    I was just about to....

    post a question about my hubs ( HB RM 65) but saw this and while reading through it noticed one poster mentioned low end Shimano hubs usually come with too much preload. I just checked mine and the rear is ok but the front is too tight. My question is how long does too much preload take to ruin a hub? I knew when I bought the bike that the hubs were low end and would need regular service but the the preload thing caught me off guard. I have about 400 miles on the bike and if there is any chance that the hub is toast I would take it back to the lbs. Thanks for any help.

  40. #40
    namagomi
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    Dear John,

    You must open up the hub using a cone wrench and check for pitting on the cups and cones.

    I'm sorry it has to be this way, but don't worry it takes a while to ruin a hub with too much preload.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by calvus
    Do the HB M525 hubs have about the same guts as the M475? I keep reading bad reviews on them but I think that when failure happens it is much more likely to pop up on a review. Who knows how many are out there getting beat to crap without maintenance and surviving fine.
    I wrote a bad review for the M525 hub on MTBR these share guts with the Alivo (m475 mc18 lines) replacement freehub body is the exact same P/N (I also write reviews when I think stuff is really good, like this bike), also mentioned I've never had a problem with XT hubs(7 or 8 of `em at least) doing minimal if any maintenance, my M525 came stock on a GT Peace 29er multi WTB SD AM wheelset(rims are crap also see other reviews) lasted 6-8 months. To get to the point of the mode of failure that I experienced, I believe to be a either a design flaw or a planned obsolescence feature, take your pick. This construction is common to the Shimano line of hubs with 2 pawls yielding 32 points of engagement. Failure occurred pedaling uphill, I heard it, but I could tell something happened as any slowdown or attempt to freewheel resulted in the chainwrap(I was now riding a 2x9 fixie). I've got the new freehub in but not installed and just took the failed unit apart tonight to examine it. Before getting to the pics it should be noted that the freehub body is 2 pawls but they are at a spacing of roughly 120 degrees not 180 like you might expect, but Shimano has been doing it like this forever(looks quite similar to an old M550 BITD). Seems like it would lead to unbalanced loading to one side internally which I think leads to eventual problems, especially if the bearing preload does loosen up. I don't believe dirt intrusion played any factor in the failure, everything was clean inside what little seals there are, held. The failure I experienced seems to be rather common in the reviews.

    New freehub body $26, whole new hub $22 same place, go figure. Anyway wheelset will be demoted to very light trail duty after freehub replaced and rims trued. Disclaimer, I'm Clyde weight but this bike is rigid and doesn't get jumped, rims can't take even minimal rock garden stuff though.

    Roll tape!

    Shot 1, broken lower pawl half that most likely lead to the other damage, the 2 halves of the pawl are connected under the retainer, damage also to the freehub body at the back of the lower broken pawl half.



    Shot 2, chunk of freehub body broken off between the 2 pawls



    Shot 3 other side of freehub, this is not cut out the same as the other 2 pockets, probably can't take a pawl



    Shot 4 Shot of beatup engagement points

    Last edited by socal_jack; 02-03-2010 at 08:51 PM.

  42. #42
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    Meant to add here's a link to the Shimano freehub interchangeabilty chart, very handy

    http://bike.shimano.com/publish/cont...ngeability.pdf

  43. #43
    yorkshire mud monkey
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    ive had mega pitting on the front and rear has well ermm died now but replaced with the nuke proof ones now so bye bye shimano.
    as steve said "As long as the rotor/rivets clears the fork, a miss is as good as a mile"

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buck268
    I have yet to see ONE single M475 warranty or service issue. A lot are over tightened but not as badly as the hubs used in STA-TRU wheels (blah!).
    I bought a set of M475s wrapped by WTB speed discs which were wrapped in a KHS Flagstaff (full susp. 29er). Picked the bike up on Thursday, rode 7miles, took it out on Friday and rode 3 miles. Now I am without a bike (for about a week) because these hubs broke after about 10 miles of trail! This really sucks because after the crappy winter we just endured here in the mid-atlantic, I am missing out on some of the best (only) good riding weather in nearly 4 months!!!!

    Of course the warranty is taking care of everything, but who wants to go thru the waiting? I am in the process of finding a new set of hubs to replace these - hopefully, the replacement will last longer than 10 miles because I spent what i had on the bike. Should I have serviced the hubs more often
    P=DAL, P=DAL, P=DAL!

  45. #45
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    Two in a row!

    Today marks the breakage of my second M475 hub - IN UNDER 30 MILES TOTAL!!! The first one broke on my second ride, the second one broke after another 3 rides. I am in the process of shopping for a replacement wheelset - which is NOT what I intended on when I bought this bike!!! This is a KHS Flagstaff and I suppose KHS decided to save a butt load of money by buying up shimano's most defective hub.....customers, schmustomers!!!! And it really blows to sit thru beautiful weekends with your bike sitting in a shop waiting for a replacement part; being warranted doesn't make it much better.
    P=DAL, P=DAL, P=DAL!

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot
    They are almost the same exact hub, right? QR is slightly different, races are slightly more polished. They shaved a small amout of weight off the hub body... and that is really about it.

    Since you didn't state what happened, If I were to guess, I would say your cones came loose and you rode it that way for a long time, and fried the races in the hub body. If you fried the cups and cones, you can replace them all for like $15. Freehub can be replaced for like $15.
    Where can you get parts (cones & cups) for the M475 Front HUB with the 10mm Axle?
    Several LBS cannot locate cones. Trying to fix up commuter bike without buying a new front wheel.

    OR can I replace cones and cups with DEORE Cones, cups, seals? Lot of work but it would save otherwise good wheel.

    US or Canada sources parts please

  47. #47
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    Another one here to say those hubs are fine. I've clocked up 1000's of k's on them and they've run problem free. The only time i've had them apart is to degrease and repack the bearings.

  48. #48
    Old Dirt Road Tourist
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    Generic Bits

    Shoestring would be an optimistic description of my bicycle budget. I was bidding on another ebay rim and came across this thread; I went out to check my fleet, and except for one pair of FH-M750 Deores and an RO85 Stealth Infiltration wheel, all my hubs are M475 or worse. I think maybe 80% of the time when I get a used wheel from Craigslist or wherever, it's never had the cones properly adjusted, and they're too tight. Once I get that straightened out, I just run'em, often not even repacking the grease, and I don't have any complaints. Where I draw the line is with cheap dimestore hubs with threads so poorly cut that the adjustment shifts when they're locknutted, and I work around that when I have to. I've seen bad parts come from manufacturers, so that can happen, but I suspect most problems are assembler error. I hear some complaints about seals, well I guess maybe I don't bury my axles in mud deep enough to have problems there; I leave my fleet out in the rain &c. and just have a little extra grease boogered around the outside and that seems to have taken care of that. Offtopic, I hear complaints regarding rim strength, and there again my mostly generic and used-up bits hold up just fine as well. Jumps and drops and roots and cobbles mostly cause problems for badly tuned wheels or poor technique. I don't do extreme so much now, but back in the Evel Knievel days I learned how to land a bike without crushing things, and I've noticed that not everyone else did, so when the whingeing starts I take it with a grain of salt. I can appreciate $500+ wheels as much as anyone, but actually where I start my upgrade is at the chain and cassette, because the shifting improvement is most noticeable. YMMV

  49. #49
    Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
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    OK first off... the 475 hubs are NOT Deore level, they're not any named group level. They belong to the non-named series parts which have a model code level and that's it. Technically they're closer to Alivio than to the Deore groups.The Deore hubs are the 525 ones. Second comparing to or expecting XT performance from a hub that costs less than 1/3 as much is idiotic at best.
    I don't post to generate business for myself or make like I'm better than sliced bread

  50. #50
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    I need some help because my Shimano M475 that I had on my Gary Fisher Marlin Disc have now been replaced by Shimano HB RM65s. The issue I have is that the quick release on my M475 axle is not the same as the RM65 one!? I have a Rock Shox Dart 3 front fork on it. I am not sure...it seems the only way to get it to work is to tighten the axle. I also don't have the clearance to spin the tightening bar...it keeps hitting the fork. help?

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