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  1. #1
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    Shifter decisions.....

    So I'm going to be picking up 1x10 items shortly. Trying to decide what shifter to grab. XT, SLX, Zee, or Saint? I plan on using the I-spec mount. Seeing as I only need the right, Zee and Saint seem to be easier to find without getting a pair. I initially thought XT but a Saint shifter is cheaper right now. What are the pro's and con's of each? Are there any major differences between them? Thanks.

    In case it matters, it will be shifting a Zee FR derailleur.

  2. #2
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    I just switched over to 1x10 using a Zee FR rear derailleur and a Saint shifter with an 11x36 xt cassette. I love the feel of the set up (crisp and smooth) and the shifter matches my Zee brakes perfectly. All black with dimples. Plus I was able to get the i-spec saint shifter for less than $50 shipped. I have no experience with the set up with xt shifters so sorry I cant comment.

    I have run into an issue with chain length though. I sized the chain for the 36t rear cog at full compression of the rear suspension, when I shift into the 11t cog I have massive amounts of chain slack. I am running a small front ring (24t hammerschmidt) at the moment and have since ordered a new Saint crankset with a 32t Race Face wide narrow wide chainring. I am currently riding a Foes FXR and am thinking the single pivot design along with the small diameter chainring up front is using up more throw than the cage of the derailleur is able to take up. Does anyone have any comments on this? Thanks.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by MotoDane250 View Post
    I have run into an issue with chain length though. I sized the chain for the 36t rear cog at full compression of the rear suspension, when I shift into the 11t cog I have massive amounts of chain slack. I am running a small front ring (24t hammerschmidt) at the moment and have since ordered a new Saint crankset with a 32t Race Face wide narrow wide chainring. I am currently riding a Foes FXR and am thinking the single pivot design along with the small diameter chainring up front is using up more throw than the cage of the derailleur is able to take up. Does anyone have any comments on this? Thanks.
    I do not have a FS bike so if this comment sounds dumb please be patient. If you sized your chain for full compression on a 36T rear cog size, it would seem that you now have your 11T cog sized for full compression as well. Since you are not at full compression while you are in your 11T cog you have lots of slack chain. From my limited understanding, how many times are you at full compression in your granny gear? When I am in my largest rear cog I am moving at my slowest speed and there is not much compression in my forks. However, when I am in my middle to smallest rear teeth (11-17,18) is where I am descending and at my fastest. I would think that if you set your chain length for full compression on your 17T or 18T rear cog you would be in much better shape then you are now. If you are not sure that will leave enough slack on you chain when you need it then you might want to use a long cage clutched derailer to allow more chain uptake.

    Mark
    2012 XXL Carve Expert

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by millertm View Post
    I do not have a FS bike so if this comment sounds dumb please be patient. If you sized your chain for full compression on a 36T rear cog size, it would seem that you now have your 11T cog sized for full compression as well. Since you are not at full compression while you are in your 11T cog you have lots of slack chain. From my limited understanding, how many times are you at full compression in your granny gear? When I am in my largest rear cog I am moving at my slowest speed and there is not much compression in my forks. However, when I am in my middle to smallest rear teeth (11-17,18) is where I am descending and at my fastest. I would think that if you set your chain length for full compression on your 17T or 18T rear cog you would be in much better shape then you are now. If you are not sure that will leave enough slack on you chain when you need it then you might want to use a long cage clutched derailer to allow more chain uptake.

    Mark
    I size for full compression in the granny gear so there is no possibility of destroying my rear derailleur. This however was not obtainable with my current set up so I have to be mindful not to come close to bottoming when in the granny gear. Which like you said is almost a non issue since there are almost no instances where you should be bottoming while moving that slowly. As of right now it is sized to where at full compression while in the granny gear there is interference. However, all other gears are fine. Just something to be mindful of.

    Also, if you size your chain length for full compression while in the 17t or 18t cog, you may not even have enough slack in the chain to get into the 36t cog when uncompressed let alone during any kind of suspension movement. That adds a high risk of destroying your derailleur, spokes, wheel, and possibly your body when bottoming in any cogs other than the 18t or smaller.

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