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  1. #1
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    ALERT-defective Shimano XTR 2007 crank

    I bought a new Shimano 2007 XTR crank, when I was installing it, I notice that the the left crank arm doesn't fit. The grooves on Octalink was oversized and does't fit.
    How Shimano sells a expensive defective crank from XTR group?!

  2. #2
    Nightriding rules SuperModerator
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    I was probably just a screw up.... your LBS will probably exchange it for you.. no worries!

  3. #3
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    Well I order it by internet ($298.00 at Germany) but I go to my LBS here in Portugal and there XTR crank is on the same, like mine.
    I think the solution is grinding the grooves at the Octalink, that I'm doing right know, and it's almost done.
    But for a XTR, is not for grinding to install it. I'll make a complain tomorrow.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Surfas
    Well I order it by internet ($298.00 at Germany) but I go to my LBS here in Portugal and there XTR crank is on the same, like mine.
    I think the solution is grinding the grooves at the Octalink, that I'm doing right know, and it's almost done.
    But for a XTR, is not for grinding to install it. I'll make a complain tomorrow.
    Where did you get it from... bike-components.de?? I am in Germany.....

    well..if you already worked out a mod.... ok...

  5. #5
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    one thing..they could have exchanged it if you don't make a mod to it and return it... but if you prefer it that way...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountainforce
    Holly jesus your stupid! Its a taper fit ( i know because i measured it) when you put the right hand crank arm on the axel (octalink as u call it) it only goes on a few mm. You HAVE to put the crank bolt in and tighten it down VERY VERY Tight for the arm to push onto the axel!

    If you have ground the octalink kiss bye bye to your cranks - there supposed to be tight!
    That confirms what I was worried about... that this guy didn't know the system on the new XTRs.... well.. there goes all that money I guess...

  7. #7
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    Don't worry, I just grind a little. And Mountainforce I know that I have to put the crank bolt in and tighten, but I don't expected to tight so hard. But today is almost done. And I still think that are something wrong, I think is a little to force to put the crank on the axel!

  8. #8
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    Well I'm thinking and I have some questions about how tight is needed to install the crank, because before I grind the grooves, I make so much force that the crank bolt don't go more, and there was a little more to push, but the bolt don't move.
    What do you think, are the problem from the crank or I just need to go to the gym to practice to install the new XTR crank?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Surfas
    Well I'm thinking and I have some questions about how tight is needed to install the crank, because before I grind the grooves, I make so much force that the crank bolt don't go more, and there was a little more to push, but the bolt don't move.
    What do you think, are the problem from the crank or I just need to go to the gym to practice to install the new XTR crank?

    It should only go in until it bottoms, not necessarily until the end....

    Quote Originally Posted by www.cyclingnews.com
    The more solid attachment should be stiffer than the current pinch-bolt arrangement and may eliminate some user error during installation as the large alloy mounting bolt is simply tightened down until the crank head bottoms out on the spindle.
    http://www.cyclingnews.com/tech.php?...es/xtr_first_1

  10. #10
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    OK that I already know it, but the force to push it until the crank head bottoms out on the spindle is so strong that I suspected and thinking that the bolt can snap. On my previusly 2003 XTR, it wasn't necessary any force to install it.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Surfas
    OK that I already know it, but the force to push it until the crank head bottoms out on the spindle is so strong that I suspected and thinking that the bolt can snap. On my previusly 2003 XTR, it wasn't necessary any force to install it.

    I understand that.. because the XTR 960 used a pinch bolt system just like XT.... are you sure the crank has not bottomed yet???

    Maybe if you post a pic or 2 it would be easier to understand your point....

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Surfas
    OK that I already know it, but the force to push it until the crank head bottoms out on the spindle is so strong that I suspected and thinking that the bolt can snap. On my previusly 2003 XTR, it wasn't necessary any force to install it.
    It's a new design. Get a torque wrench so you can torque it to spec.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by flipnidaho
    It's a new design. Get a torque wrench so you can torque it to spec.

    Yeah... tapered designs don't go "all the way in" (because of the taper).. you just need to insert them until the spec torque is reached... and that's it...

  14. #14
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    Well the problem is that my 8mm hex wrench (Park AWS-11) has a little handle, tomorrow I'll buy a better 8mm wrench for that.
    And now I only have 1.5/2 mm to bottom. But is a really tight fit.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Surfas
    Well the problem is that my 8mm hex wrench (Park AWS-11) has a little handle, tomorrow I'll buy a better 8mm wrench for that.
    And now I only have 1.5/2 mm to bottom. But is a really tight fit.
    you mean 1.5-2mm until the end of the taper? could it be that the crank bottoms before the end of the taper? I haven't installed a set of these yet, but usually tapered cranks (like square taper) don't go in and cover the whole axle.... just a suggestion...

  16. #16
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    Might sound like a silly question, but you have got the expanding collar inbetween the bottom bracket and left hand crank arm?
    You can't make a racehorse out of a donkey, but you can make a fast donkey.

  17. #17
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    Yes, 1.5-2 mm to the end of the taper. And they need to bottom at the end os the taper.
    Yes, I have the expanding colar.
    I have done everything like Shimano tells in Instruction, just the force that is needed to install the left crank is so much, that I think ist is possible to broke the 8mm crank bolt.
    But they tells to install the bolt to 45-55 Nm and for that is a strong force.
    Tomorrow I'll buy a proper 8mm wrench with a 200mm handle to try to puch the rest of 1.5-2mm.

  18. #18
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    yup i had the same issues

    when installing it the first time. it takes ALOT of force to go on, but nothing broke
    and it has been fine. the spindle does have about 1-2mm space at the end of the
    crank arm.

  19. #19
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    surfas, i'd like to see a picture of the ground down octalink.

    grinding a brand new crank like that is probably the worst thing you can do. just awful.
    every thread needs an uploaded image of one kind or another.

  20. #20
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    It's done

    Well it wasn't grinding, it was only soften the edges of the grooves. But you all help me.Today I buy a proper 8mm hex wrench with a 200mm handle, and it wasn't needed so much force to install the crank. I usually say that the proper toll is the secret of the good mechanic, and myself take it wrong in that department. But is installed and no arm done, thanks for your help.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Surfas
    Well it wasn't grinding, it was only soften the edges of the grooves. But you all help me.Today I buy a proper 8mm hex wrench with a 200mm handle, and it wasn't needed so much force to install the crank. I usually say that the proper toll is the secret of the good mechanic, and myself take it wrong in that department. But is installed and no arm done, thanks for your help.
    Great!

    Glad it worked out nicely in the end... now post some pics of those blingy sweet cranks!!

  22. #22
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    .Well I replace on my Santacruz BLT the full 2003 XTR for a 2007 crank and front derailleur, Sram X0 rear derailleur and shifters and Formula Oro Puro brakes.
    But sorry no pictures, only if you pay. No no payment needed, just don't have a camera, it's my next acquisition.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Surfas
    .Well I replace on my Santacruz BLT the full 2003 XTR for a 2007 crank and front derailleur, Sram X0 rear derailleur and shifters and Formula Oro Puro brakes.
    But sorry no pictures, only if you pay. No no payment needed, just don't have a camera, it's my next acquisition.
    Surfas,

    FYI, just giving you a heads up if you need to remove those beautiful cranks.(no more blunders!) The new XTR crankset does require a special Shimano extracting tool - it comes with the cranks you just bought.

    With one side of the tool (the four prongs) remove the cap from the LC, then flip the tool around and then screw it into the LC nice and tight (make sure the washer came out with the cap before screwing in the tool!) Take your 8mm allen key and turn CC to extract the arm.
    BTW, nice set-up man - (that carbon / ti middle ring will cost some serious $$ when that decides to go hey?)

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