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  1. #1
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    Sette Riddik Build

    I'm new to the forum's so let me have it if I've started this thread in the wrong forum. I've seen a bit of discussion about Sette frames so I thought I'd offer up some pics and opinions of my own build, built on the Riddik frame. Aside from the paint, which tends to wear fairly easily, it's a sturdy frame and rides very well. The interrupted seat post isn't much of an issue however, if it were any more slack I would have had to purchase a different seatpost to make a correct fit. As long as you can look past the "less than prestigious" name brand it is an all around great frame and an excellent value. I'd like to see some other's builds using Sette frames so feel free to post some pics of your own!
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  2. #2
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    That's a pretty bike. I like the all black motif. I almost bought a Riddik to build up for my last bike, but I wanted a little more travel and bought a Jamis XLT instead. Great build and happy trails.

  3. #3
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    Did you paint the rocker?? Mine came shinny.

  4. #4
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    Just did it today...

    I just painted the rockers today. The silver stood out entirely too much and it was all my eye would focus on (former art student) when I looked at the bike. The black has mellowed it out and, In my opinion, works better with the overall appearance of the bike. I need to put a semi-gloss coat on it to better match the sheen on the frame though. Thanks for noticing. If you get a chance post a pic of your build.

  5. #5
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    how much did the whole build cost you?

    If you don't mmind me asking.
    I Fear No Beer

  6. #6
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    Cost

    Minus the cost of tools and miscellaneous greases...around $1550

  7. #7
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    not bad at all.

    That is close to what I spent on my HT.
    I Fear No Beer

  8. #8
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    that seattube is way funky...
    is it just me, or could they have tightened up the chainstays quite a bit by forgoing the curve below the pivot?

    Clean ride, go get her dirty!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikespug
    I just painted the rockers today. The silver stood out entirely too much and it was all my eye would focus on (former art student) when I looked at the bike. The black has mellowed it out and, In my opinion, works better with the overall appearance of the bike. I need to put a semi-gloss coat on it to better match the sheen on the frame though. Thanks for noticing. If you get a chance post a pic of your build.
    Here's mine. Took off the paint and highlighted alittle where rocks wouldn't chip the paint. One can run a tight chainline if they want, has a narrow main pivot and has 4 bearings there. Good for a 9x2. I replaced the dropout bearings with full complement bearings. Ordered 2 from Jenson and got a pack of 6. Finally one my way. Pushed fork and rp3. Might have said this before but the bolt only had 4 threads of penetration at the rocker/seatstay junction. Looking at your pic I see there are different bolts there then I had. I used longer stainless steel bolts and used stainless nuts on the backside. The nuts do clear the seat tube. Lastly, mine is pin straight with great looking welds and by looking at the inside of some tubes excellent penetration.
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  10. #10
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    Sexy ride you've got there, I like the color combination...

  11. #11
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    1niceride...The raw look is nice. What did you use to strip the paint and have you thought about trying to polish it?

  12. #12
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    No polish for me...

    Quote Originally Posted by mikespug
    1niceride...The raw look is nice. What did you use to strip the paint and have you thought about trying to polish it?
    I have learned...plastic siding on my house, very small boat, low mantainance wife, etc.
    One I polish it, it has to always be polished. I used just generic paint remover. Took all of 2
    hours to do the process. Packed the space between the main pivot bearings with grease and put it back together. I have been swapping parts back and forth for about 3 months though ...and ran up my credit card

  13. #13
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    Any guesstimate on frame Weight? I'm considering tearing down my hardtail for a all mountain build.

  14. #14
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    I'll be building one of these soon as I can spare a bit-o-cash. Looks like a superb frame especially for the cost.

  15. #15
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    19"

    I believe the 19" frame weighs in at 7.6 lbs...it's considered to be on the heavy side for the amount of travel it has. Anyone who is that concerned about the "extra" weight could probably stand to loose a couple of lbs themselves to make up for it. It's a solid frame and if a little extra weight makes it such...I'll take it

  16. #16
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    Nice build, both bikes.

    I have recently built up a 17" Riddik with a 120mm Fox Vanilla R. The 130mm setting was a bit too laid back for me, making switchbacks that much harder, not to mention traction on the really steep hills.

    I do have a question for y'all - has anyone noticed a fair amount of lateral flex in the rear triangle? I've noticed the flex is reduced by putting the shock in the 4" travel (rearward hole) position on the rocker arm, but since I do a lot of climbing, I like to keep it in the 3" position.

    Give it a try - hold your seat with one hand and your rear wheel with the other. Then flex the rear triangle side to side. I'm wondering if that flex might be reduced if there was a connector between the two rocker arms, similar to Ellsworth's rocker arms.

    - Al

  17. #17
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    I'm certain it couldn't hurt to add connecting pins...

    I checked out the flex on my rig today by moving the tire back and forth a few times as suggested and noticed a little, but not very significant amount of play. (I do keep it in the 4" travel position though) After reading reviews of some other bikes with the same style suspension, in particular the Kona Dawg, who's rocker arm design is very similar the Riddik, the rocker arms are to blame for the flex. (even with connectors) Check out a picture of the Kona Dawg online and you'll notice two connecting pins towards the rear of the rocker arms. I'd encourage you, though, to try the mod and let us know if you find it helpful. I'm certain the flex could only be improved by installing them and I'm curious to find out just how much it would.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1niceride
    Here's mine. Took off the paint and highlighted alittle where rocks wouldn't chip the paint. One can run a tight chainline if they want, has a narrow main pivot and has 4 bearings there. Good for a 9x2. I replaced the dropout bearings with full complement bearings. Ordered 2 from Jenson and got a pack of 6. Finally one my way. Pushed fork and rp3. Might have said this before but the bolt only had 4 threads of penetration at the rocker/seatstay junction. Looking at your pic I see there are different bolts there then I had. I used longer stainless steel bolts and used stainless nuts on the backside. The nuts do clear the seat tube. Lastly, mine is pin straight with great looking welds and by looking at the inside of some tubes excellent penetration.
    Can I ask why you replaced the shock? I have no doubt that a pushed fox is nice, but I can't believe its better than a swinger 4-way.
    Quote Originally Posted by trogdor
    I think everyone who wears a helmit should carry around an old crank arm, then when you see someone without a helmit on, give them a good wack in the head. That'll teach them to flaut their helmit-less noggins out in public.

  19. #19
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    Sweet!

    Thats a huge rear derailleur cable loop.

  20. #20
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    Here is a Sette Reken I put together.

    The top tube is a bit short for my taste, but I really like the slacker HA. I think the rear drop outs might be slightly off too. But nothing that affects riding.

    I use it as my SS and racer bike, and just recently discovered using a half link it has the magic stays and requires no tensioner when set up as a SS 32x16! For $80, that is a keeper.

    P


  21. #21
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    looks like a pretty solid build, i like alot of the less mainstream bikes

  22. #22
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    Volvospeed, I'm assuming you're referring to the rear derailleur cable loop on my ride. It is...or should I say was...rather large. I just swapped my XT components over to my commuter and "upgraded" to Sram X.9 shifters and derailleurs on the Riddik so the large loop no longer exists and is now a straight cable to the derailleur. I'll add, for anyone viewing this post, I MUCH prefer Sram's components to Shimano's. I've found, in the short time I've been using them, they shift much more quickly and accurately. I'd go on but I've already bled my heart out about them in a review I wrote yesterday.

  23. #23
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    Good lookin' rig. What inspired you to use v-brakes in the back? Weight, budget...etc....? I ask because I, a short time ago, had plans of building a SS and was going to use a single disc brake on the front and no rear brake.

  24. #24
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    If he's anything like me...

    Quote Originally Posted by upNdown
    Can I ask why you replaced the shock? I have no doubt that a pushed fox is nice, but I can't believe its better than a swinger 4-way.
    If he's anything like me he probably bought the fork and then wanted the rear to match. A horrible habit of mine that I have to break...That's one of the reasons my fork so closely matches the swinger 4-way. You just built up a Riddik of your own didn't you? When you get a chance post a pic. I'd love to see it!

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikespug
    If he's anything like me he probably bought the fork and then wanted the rear to match. A horrible habit of mine that I have to break...That's one of the reasons my fork so closely matches the swinger 4-way. You just built up a Riddik of your own didn't you? When you get a chance post a pic. I'd love to see it!
    I built it with pretty much everything I had on my NRS:
    Manitou Black Comp
    The wheelset I got slightly used from a buddy of mine - he bought them at a bike show one time; they're WTB new paradigm hubs with grease guard laced to wtb laserbeam rims
    with some spokes that are probably lighter than they should be
    SRAM x9 rear der, 9.0 front der, and x.7 shifters, 8 speed
    I think the cassette is an XT
    The brakes are XT v brakes with LX levers - I'd been running old XT hydros on my NRS, but those wheels were shot and the only other wheelset I had wasn't disc compatible, so I went back to V brakes for this ride.
    The cranks are Deore - easily the best deal in the world - hollow cranks and nice chainrings for half the price
    The stem is a short Thompson, I think 90mm
    I couldn't use my Thompson post because I couldn't tilt the saddle down far enough, so I used an old Weyless I had laying around.
    And eggbeaters - love eggbeaters - only problem with them is none of my friends can try the bike cause they all ride SPD's
    The WTB Weirwolfs are small for 2.5's, but probably still a bit big for the fram. But they fit the frame, and I'm addicted to wide tires, so they're staying.
    Oh and the saddle is a WTB pure V pro gel that I picked up on sale from performance for $29 - its an anchor, but worth ever gram - comfy for my bum!

    I haven't weighed it, but I'm guessing it is on the right side of 30 (which is more than I can say for the rider). I'm amazed at how nice this thing rides. I own a Weyless 67, so I knew you could get a decent frame from a internet store house brand, but this Riddik has exceeded any hopes I had. I think it is due in large part to the Swinger 4-way - what a sweet shock. I'm pretty psyched on this bike.

    Here's my new favorite toy:
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    Quote Originally Posted by trogdor
    I think everyone who wears a helmit should carry around an old crank arm, then when you see someone without a helmit on, give them a good wack in the head. That'll teach them to flaut their helmit-less noggins out in public.

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