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  1. #151
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    would drop the BB... and you'd still have a fairly long wheelbase (compared to a "conventional" 69er... granted you COULD do it... but i doubt it'd be great... you'd be dropping the rear of it... which would rake out the front end unless you tossed on a shorter fork... and then you'd loose a lot of that BB height... i want one...
    - Surly Disc trucker
    - '82 trek 560 roadie

  2. #152
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    I'm going to get one. I'm 5'7 and have a 30 inch inseam. Will I be okay with a small?

  3. #153
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    Tire Clearance part duex

    Ran the Rampages with an X7 duel pull FD ran into some rubbing issues so had to switch it out to a XT FD.

  4. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronnie
    Why should I or anyone else take advice from someone who believes it is adequate to use just a back brake. When you apply a brake, front or rear about 75% of your weight transfers onto the front wheel. All you are going to do is skid your back wheel and rip up the trail, not to mention the lack of control using just a rear brake.

    It is obvious that you know very little about biking.

    Ronnie.
    Don't really want to derail this thread, but braking is much more dynamic than that.
    I beleive he means primarily rear brake.
    I have seen allot of people who are extremely agile that use the back brake quite allot but never skid. It is a constant changing dynamics of your balance and postion on the bike and between the front and rear brake. Over many years I have seen over compensated front braking start many a crash as the front wheel is "usually.....75% of the time" first to go. Sometimes the front brake can be applied much more than the back but the modulation between both brakes as your balance changes is the most important thing to work on.
    No need to insult your fellow posters to make your point. It pretty much nullifies any validation you have.


    Now.......back to the frame.
    I plan on ordering a 16" or 18" (honestly the numbers for both sizes look very similar) at 5'9". This will give me a little quicker handling 29er than I am currently on. (both actual tt lengths are about the same 57/58 cm but sette wtih a lil shorter wheelbase, lil tighter ha ...than my r/x....and 3lbs lighter.)
    Should make for a good riding bike at my size and for my needs......oh yea, and the price and wght makes it a fun experiment.
    Anyone know if the actual toptube measurements are accurate 57cm for small, 59cm for larger etc. Thanks.
    Also, could someone please measure center to top for me and see if the sizing is accurate for any given frame. I have seen numbers at 16 or 16.5 and 18 or 18.5 etc.
    Last edited by ghawk; 04-28-2009 at 07:19 AM.

  5. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by D1PHAM
    Anyone ever build one of these up as a 69er? Any thoughts on how this would work out?
    If you want a 69er you should start with a frame designed for a 26" rear wheel

  6. #156
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    I almost went with that old Supergo Access frame. Performance satisfaction warranty is beyond reproach. I could not find geometry info for starters and there were just too many good things about the new Sette Razzo.
    Sette Razzo 29er 7k series alum frame (~3.5 lbs) should be here today for 200 bucks. The thinner walled series tubing should give me a pretty lively feel (what most of the heavier hardtales frames lack. (while in theory the 7000 series might be stiffer than lower end alum and steel, once you compensate for strength by making it lighter with the thinner walls, you many times get a nice lively riding lil frame.....and for the price ?)

  7. #157
    And He was Not
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    Here is a couple of pics of my friends Sette. He's got a G2 offset RP24 fork on his, it is set to 100mm. Seems pretty happy with the bike. He did mention the stingy tire clearance. He is running a Panaracer Fire XC on the rear.






    The Truth is out there. Here it isThe TRUTH

  8. #158
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    Enoch
    Here is a couple of pics of my friends Sette.
    Enoch, tell your bud he doesn't have to tiewrap all the way around the toptube for the hydro line. (Just around the hydro line and the next door cable housing.)

    Thanks for great pics ! Professionally packaged it took awhile to unpack. (Packed better than my R/X 29er which was much more deniro.) Very nice and 1447grams 3.19lbs (digi alpine scale) with seat collar in a medium. I'd post pics if I can get my usb port driver to work. Nicest 200 bucks on bike stuff I have spent in awhile. Previous post thanks for advice I went ahead and snagged spare hanger. The sizing numbers are pretty much right on amazingly enough, at least for the medium. Good clearance for 2.1 Maxxis Ardents. Would probably not go with anything much larger.
    Edit: okay medium chain stay clearance at maximum point is 63.45 mm (measured with digi calipers) at the max chainstay point width for the ardent 2.15" width tire in it and at that width point so a 2.2 will probably fit but it will be tight.
    Oh yes, as previousl posted. Thread aren't ready and need to be chased/tapped, barely any there don't know about ht.
    Last edited by ghawk; 05-11-2009 at 02:56 PM.

  9. #159
    Fat boy Mod Moderator
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    Enoch... any pics of the tire clearance and what tires is he using?...
    - Surly Disc trucker
    - '82 trek 560 roadie

  10. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by donalson
    Enoch... any pics of the tire clearance and what tires is he using?...
    It's a Fire XC on the rear, it clears, but there is not alot of room for error. I didn't get a chance to steal but a few photos, sorry no tire pics. Most 2.1 will do fine on this frame
    The Truth is out there. Here it isThe TRUTH

  11. #161
    Fat boy Mod Moderator
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    how bout a 2.3 exiwolf?
    - Surly Disc trucker
    - '82 trek 560 roadie

  12. #162
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    Thank you

    Quote Originally Posted by dog.gone
    Sette is the Italian word for the number seven. Since the Sette company logo includes a number seven, I'm inclined to believe the company name pronunced in the Italian manner.

    There is a .wmv file at the following website that provides the correct pronunciation of the Italian word sette'.
    http://italian.about.com/library/chi...blnumber07.htm
    For all the "no espeecko italian" crowd, seriously, the sticker even has a freaking 7 in it.
    Sit and spin my ass...

  13. #163
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enoch
    It's a Fire XC on the rear, it clears, but there is not alot of room for error. I didn't get a chance to steal but a few photos, sorry no tire pics. Most 2.1 will do fine on this frame
    FireXC? That's not too bad then. I remember BruceBrown posting measurements on those tires and he claims they are actually a true 2.2" in terms of tread.

  14. #164
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    2.3 exiwolf will work... I'm running them up front and in the back with my set up....

  15. #165
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    After tapping the threads the left bb shell still was tricky to line up right. So, don't force it.
    No headset or bb facing needed.
    Other than that, build has so far gone really well been awhile since I built a hardtale vs rear suspension. 26.8 pounds non weight weenie build 9 speed build 09 rock shox reba thru axle u-turn 100-120 at 4 lbs. XTR, Spinergy wheels ghetto ..(i give up a couple of pound cause I use ergonomic bar ends and othodic grips.)
    Btw, XTR m970 bottom bracket, I did 1 - 2.5 & 1 - ~2.3 spacers drive side and a 3 mm non drive. Hopefully that won't bugger the bearings or start creaking.
    With standard 2- 2.5 and 1 - 2.5, drive side non drive for 68mm bb, the driveline was way out to the right (it looked like my right drive arm pedal was about 1.7mm farther out than the left) so I had to get creative. If you don't know what I'm talking about then just do standard and it will be fine.
    Bike scratches very easily, but really looks like allot of bike for the money. If you are picky about that sort of stuff, you might want to clear coat it before you build it. Fun cheap project that is building up 3 lbs lighter than my R/X which as I said at my weight and height was a b*()t on the uphill. The valid compairson for this bike seems to be the niner emd 7k series alum at 3.5 lbs and 500.00 bucks or so. Air 9 Scan might be even better and you would drop about .2 pounds at ~700 ?
    Edit: Oh yea, the other change I did to get a better change line was add a spacer of about 2mm inside the back cassette. Combined with the spacer changes to the xtr bb, my chainline on the medium razzo is much improved. (If you don't do that, you may want to just add a couple of chain lengths to keep it from being a bit tight on your cross-over gearing.)
    The bike is really quite a climbing monster. My R/X was good on most flat stuff but the weight for a small size bike kept it from climbing really well compared to this bike. The Razzo out climbs anything on hilly rolly terrain. Super technical is of course another story because it is a hardtail. But the larger wheels make any up to moderately technical courses a dream. For extremely rocky technical courses of course it can't compete with my 650b 5" travel Mojo SL. But anything that has a fair section of fire roads with long non-technical climbs this bike rides away from anything I have ridden.
    Another Edit: Oh yea, the 27.2 seattube. Should have been a 30.9 but if it keeps the weight lower I am happy iow, fine for us smaller guys.
    I am running 250mm of a carbon post at 170 lbs and it flexes approx 4 mm or even more. (not a bad deal on a hardtail as long as it does not break.)
    You big guys, please run an aluminum seatpost for your own safety if you are running more than 200mm seatpost.
    Last edited by ghawk; 05-15-2009 at 03:45 PM.

  16. #166
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    great race bike

    Quote Originally Posted by Lambda_drive
    So does anybody else have a ride report on the frame?

    I'm really considering buying this frame, but I just can't find many reviews online, and a lot of people that I've talked say to go with a more well known brand.
    I built up one as my race bike after finding my Asylum too slow an heavy. Mine built up just under 25 lbs, 3x9, big tires, biggish fork. It's basically full XT with a F29 RP24 100mm.

    I raced it at the Lemurian, NVDC, and the Pine Nut Cracker and it was great... I didn't really miss the suspension at the rear with the big wheel and big tire (a 2.3 Exiwolf). It climbed great, descended well, and I beat the crap out of it and I weigh about 200. I'd recommend it for sure... although I have no idea if it would work for someone 100lbs heavier than me!

    Well worth the 200 bones! I'm pretty surprised how shaped the tubing is actually...

  17. #167
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    My Razzo

    I built one up earlier this year with the 29er build kit and a Rock Shox Reba SL (fork totally sucks) but bike rides great. I'm 6'1" 200lbs and ride the 18" frame.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  18. #168
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    Has anyone tried to take the stickers off the frame?

  19. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randot
    I built one up earlier this year with the 29er build kit and a Rock Shox Reba SL (fork totally sucks) but bike rides great. I'm 6'1" 200lbs and ride the 18" frame.
    Just curious why you don't like the fork

  20. #170
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    The stickers are under the clear coat. Very thin clear coat that it is. I've considered stripping it and repainting like I have to other frames.

  21. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    Just curious why you don't like the fork
    Well, it's difficult for me to get proper air pressure in it. Also, when in lockout there is still a good amount of sag and it makes a creaking noise when sagging. It needs more travel, probably only getting an inch of travel. I need to pull the legs off and take the spacer off, hopefully, I'll get another inch of travel. I just wish there was a Bomber for a 29er.

  22. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randot
    Well, it's difficult for me to get proper air pressure in it. Also, when in lockout there is still a good amount of sag and it makes a creaking noise when sagging. It needs more travel, probably only getting an inch of travel. I need to pull the legs off and take the spacer off, hopefully, I'll get another inch of travel. I just wish there was a Bomber for a 29er.
    Do you have a proper shock pump, something for high pressure and that doesn't bleed when removed?

    The lockout is designed to still have a small amount of travel. You can adjust how much force it takes to active that extra travel with the Floodgate valve. Its a small hex end under that gold cap on top of he compression knob. Turn it max to the right and you will probably find what you are looking for.

    It definitely shouldn't be creaking. Is it really like a squeaky mattress creaking?

    Do you have matching air pressure in both chambers? Too much positive can prevent the fork from extending all the way. Also, since air is progressive, it will always take much more force to use up that last 1" of travel than the first 2"

    I asked because the Reba is widely considered a really good and reliable fork, and very simple to service. If you are having problems, chances are the collective experience of this forum can help you get it dialed

  23. #173
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    >>Just curious why you don't like the fork
    I'm running the 90-120mm version of the fork (maxle thru axle) as opposed to 80mm fixed qr. It really helps with a hardtale to have a travel adjust fork, and with a 29er the ta. You can ride the bike as meant to be ridden on the climbs at short travel, etc but to give yourself a break from the pounding on the LONG downhills just dial up to 120mm and the thru ax helps handles the 29er wheels extra momentum better that qr version.

    The fork has really been right on with this frame for me.
    I could do with a better travel adjust system than u-turn, but there is no other 29er fork out there>> that I know of << that has as many options for you as does the 09 Reba.
    & I use them all.....
    Nther edit: Well finally got a http://velo-orange.com/ 17 degree drop stem to get me low enough. That really is a problem for smaller riders that like an agressive lower stem setup with these 29ers. Note the Razzo is probably one of the best head tube lengths of the bunch also.
    The ride is so very well on the razzo it is the best climbing bike in my stable.
    Last edited by ghawk; 06-21-2009 at 06:53 PM.

  24. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghawk
    >>Just curious why you don't like the fork
    I'm running the 90-120mm version of the fork (maxle thru axle) as opposed to 80mm fixed qr. It really helps with a hardtale to have a travel adjust fork, and with a 29er the ta. You can ride the bike as meant to be ridden on the climbs at short travel, etc but to give yourself a break from the pounding on the LONG downhills just dial up to 120mm and the thru ax helps handles the 29er wheels extra momentum better that qr version.

    The fork has really been right on with this frame for me.
    I could do with a better travel adjust system than u-turn, but there is no other 29er fork out there>> that I know of << that has as many options for you as does the 09 Reba.
    & I use them all.....
    The Reba does NOT have on the fly adjustable travel. Please explain how yours does?

  25. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    Do you have a proper shock pump, something for high pressure and that doesn't bleed when removed?

    The lockout is designed to still have a small amount of travel. You can adjust how much force it takes to active that extra travel with the Floodgate valve. Its a small hex end under that gold cap on top of he compression knob. Turn it max to the right and you will probably find what you are looking for.

    It definitely shouldn't be creaking. Is it really like a squeaky mattress creaking?

    Do you have matching air pressure in both chambers? Too much positive can prevent the fork from extending all the way. Also, since air is progressive, it will always take much more force to use up that last 1" of travel than the first 2"

    I asked because the Reba is widely considered a really good and reliable fork, and very simple to service. If you are having problems, chances are the collective experience of this forum can help you get it dialed
    I have an older shock pump works (white industries) but definately bleeds when releasing since it screws on. Can you recommend one?

    The floodgate was all the way to the right.

    I put the same amount of air, by the gauge, in both chambers.

    It appears that the creaking sound happens when it is locked out and the sound is coming from friction from the uppers rubbing on the lowers.

    I wish I didn't have to disassemble the fork to adjust the travel.

    Thanks very much for the help. This is my first new mt. bike in 12 years so I need all the help I can get.

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