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  1. #201
    NedwannaB
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    Right

    Quote Originally Posted by Skeeno
    The specs say that the max rear tire clearance is 2.3"
    Saw that. But you know how tires vary, one brands 2.3 is same as anothers 2.1 etc...
    Thinking that the new WTB WeirWolf low tread 2.5 I just got may sneak in there.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  2. #202
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    It's always a crapshoot on tire sizes.

  3. #203
    NedwannaB
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    Yep kinda like life.....

    Quote Originally Posted by Skeeno
    It's always a crapshoot on tire sizes.
    How is the Ace build working out?
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  4. #204
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    The Ace is working out great for me. I'm not a serious MTBer, so I'm not to snobby about name brands. I just need some decent stuff for riding when I get a chance. This Sette is perfect for me. I have only had a chance to get it in the dirt a few times, but it is a nice ride so far. I ride it around my neighborhood with my daughter and dogs almost every other day. The shock is holding up fine, which was a concern of mine. I had heard some people had problems with the Monarch 3.3. I have lost no air pressure yet. My only complaint is that I can't ride it more often off road. I need to work less and ride more.

  5. #205
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    The Ace arrived today and I immediately put the bike together with a mix of parts off my Stumpjumper FSRxc and some new parts I ordered with the frame.



    Pedaled around my street and the bike feels great, tomorrow I'll ride it for 'real'.

    Shifters: Shimano LX
    Brake Levers: Avid Speed Dial 5's
    Brakes: Avid BB7's
    Front Derailluer: SRAM X.9
    Rear Derailluer: Shimano XT
    Crankset: Race Face Evolve XC x-type
    Wheels/Hubs: Sun Singletrack / Shimano XT
    Seat: WTB Pure V

  6. #206
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    Thanks to all previous posters on this thread. Between the pics and feedback, I felt very comfortable pulling the trigger on a Sette Ace for my first full suspension ride.

    I've only managed a couple rides, 26 miles total, mostly fire roads and some singletrack with very very few moderately technical sections. For heavier riders out there, (I weigh in at 235lbs) expect pedal bob when you're standing. With a 100mm it easily manages tight switchbacks. As others have reported, this bike is a sure footed climber even when the pitch gets real steep >15%. I haven't had to use the lockout yet, I feel like I can climb better with the suspension active. Compared to my hardtail, it rocks going downhills. It's a very solid ride, I don't feel any slop from the pivots. I haven't notice any brake jack. I feel very confident on descents. So far, this bike is a noticeable improvement over my hardtail.

    Price, more than anything defined my build. Bits came from several online stores: Price Point, obviously, and also Greenfish, Jenson, BWW; and a few bits stolen from my 12 year old steel hardtail. I managed to keep price under 2K. I was hoping for 25 lbs, it ended up at 26.7 lbs which I can live with. (But I'm going to check calibration on my cheapo fish scale.) During the build, I did have some trouble with paint on the BB threads, so I had my LBS chase the threads. I did hear creaking noises on my 2nd ride, but I couldn't figure out where it was coming from, and the noise went away during the ride. I do get quite a bit of chain slap on fast rocky descents, so I highly recommend a chain stay protector. Anyway, build specs are:

    Sette Ace 18.5 in
    Manitou Minute MRD Absolute 100mm
    Stylo 3.3 GXP Cranks
    SRAM X.9 Twist Shift
    SRAM X.9 Rear Der
    SRAM Cassette & Chain
    Shimano XT Front der
    Avid Elixir R Disc
    Mavic 719 rims w/ XT hubs
    WTB Raijin Tires
    Titec Hellbent Prolite Riser
    Titec Pluto Carbon Stem
    Titec Hellbent Expert Saddle
    Thomson Elite post


  7. #207
    NedwannaB
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    Shock probs?

    Quote Originally Posted by Skeeno
    The shock is holding up fine, which was a concern of mine. I had heard some people had problems with the Monarch 3.3. I have lost no air pressure yet.
    I know they had trouble with the previous 2.1 shock, and changed to the 3.3 (for frame only anyway-I think the complete bikes still comes with the 2.1).

    Quote Originally Posted by Skeeno
    I need to work less and ride more.
    Mee too! Let me know when you have this figured out and pass on the info.....
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  8. #208
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    I'm still loving my Sette Ace. No complaints whatsoever with the shock (Monarch 3.3), and the pivots are still perfect. IMO, this is a very capable XC racer due to the light weight and efficient suspension design.

    Here's a pic I just took. I'll try to take some more once I replace the handlebar and cut down my hydro lines.

    <a href="http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/wbholwell/?action=view&current=IMG_6693-s.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/wbholwell/IMG_6693-s.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
    Tire Design & Development Engineer. The opinions expressed in this forum are solely my own.

  9. #209
    NedwannaB
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    Nice build

    Quote Originally Posted by bholwell
    Here's a pic I just took. I'll try to take some more once I replace the handlebar and cut down my hydro lines.
    Do you mind taking one of the tire clearence between the arch brace of seat & chain stays? And what type/size tire you are running?

    Thx in advance-JMac
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  10. #210
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    Im running Maxxis Mobster's 2.1 on my Ace and theres no clearance issues.
    No pics yet...sorry.

    I just rode Walker Ranch in Boulder, CO for the first trail.
    Bikes handles great. I also ate it in a rock garden and dented the downtube. DOH!

  11. #211
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    So after reading all the positive feedback I pulled the trigger, built it up last weekend & then got sent on a business trip. I've only ridden it once on the local bike path which has only a slight tease of an actual dirt trail. Felt great and can't wait to really test it out tomorrow.

    Anyway, thought I would post a pic to share & add to the collection for all those thinking about a Sette build.



    Frame: Sette Ace 18.5" w/ Monarch 3.3
    Fork: 2008 Reba Race
    Headset: Cane Creek S3
    Shifters: Shimano LX
    Brakes: Hayes El Camino 160mm
    Front Derailluer: Shimano Deore
    Rear Derailluer: Shimano LX
    Cassette: Shimano XT
    Chain: Shimano HG-93
    Crankset: Non Series Shimano Deore
    Wheels/Hubs: Mavic 223/Shimano XT
    Cockpit: Easton EA50 seat post/stem, EA70 Monkey Bar, Lizard Skins North Shore Grips
    Seat: WTB Laser V Pro
    Tires: WTB Velociraptor
    Last edited by Swamp Rat; 06-06-2009 at 08:30 PM.

  12. #212
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    Don't forget to post a ride report!


    Quote Originally Posted by Swamp Rat
    So after reading all the positive feedback I pulled the trigger, built it up last weekend & then got sent on a business trip. I've only ridden it once on the local bike path which has only a slight tease of an actual dirt trail. Felt great and can't wait to really test it out tomorrow.

    Anyway, thought I would post a pic to share & add to the collection for all those thinking about a Sette build.



    Frame: Sette Ace 18.5" w/ Monarch 3.3
    Fork: 2008 Reba Race
    Headset: Cane Creek S3
    Shifters: Shimano LX
    Brakes: Hayes El Camino 160mm
    Front Derailluer: Shimano Deore
    Rear Derailluer: Shimano LX
    Cassette: Shimano XT
    Chain: Shimano HG-93
    Crankset: Non Series Shimano Deore
    Wheels/Hubs: Mavic 223/Shimano XT
    Cockpit: Easton EA50 seat post/stem, EA70 Monkey Bar, Lizard Skins North Shore Grips
    Seat: WTB Laser V Pro
    Tires: WTB Velociraptor

  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47
    Do you mind taking one of the tire clearence between the arch brace of seat & chain stays? And what type/size tire you are running?

    Thx in advance-JMac
    JMac,
    I hope these pics are helpful. I'm running Mythos 2.1s. My pics aren't the most accurate, but it looks like there is 2 5/8" or 2.625" of clearance.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #214
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    I was curious about my build cost, so I broke it down. All parts were new except the fork which was an OE takeoff. Price without shipping is $1458

    480 Sette Ace Frame
    280 Rockshox Recon Shock
    30 IRC Mythos Tires
    100 Rynolite Wheels
    8 Rim tape
    15 Slime Heavy Duty Tubes
    70 Avid BB5 Brakes
    23 Sette Duo Bar
    22 FSA Pig Headset
    10 Spacers
    13 Sette Duo Stem
    24 Lizard Skins Peaty Grips
    20 Avid Speed Dial Levers
    145 SRAM X.9 Shifters/Rear D
    27 SRAM X.7 Front D
    70 FSA Dynadrive Cranks & BB
    30 SRAM Cassette
    16 SRAM Chain
    13 Sette Venn Seatpost
    10 Giant Seatclamp
    30 Specialized Saddle
    12 Cables
    10 Cable Housing
    1458 Total

  15. #215
    NedwannaB
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    Great

    Quote Originally Posted by Skeeno
    JMac,
    I hope these pics are helpful. I'm running Mythos 2.1s. My pics aren't the most accurate, but it looks like there is 2 5/8" or 2.625" of clearance.
    The 2nd one is the most helpfull and is what I was looking for, as the side clearences looked good on the site pix. The others shots are blocked by the tape.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  16. #216
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    Did any of you face and ream the headset including the bottom bracket? I've tried asking Sette USA. No response.

    Quote Originally Posted by bholwell
    I'm still loving my Sette Ace. No complaints whatsoever with the shock (Monarch 3.3), and the pivots are still perfect. IMO, this is a very capable XC racer due to the light weight and efficient suspension design.

    Here's a pic I just took. I'll try to take some more once I replace the handlebar and cut down my hydro lines.

  17. #217
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    I did not face or ream the headset or the bottom bracket. After 189 miles of trail riding, it's still going strong.

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47
    The 2nd one is the most helpfull and is what I was looking for, as the side clearences looked good on the site pix. The others shots are blocked by the tape.
    Here's a couple more of the bottom for you, sans the tape.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  19. #219
    NedwannaB
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    Great shots

    Quote Originally Posted by Skeeno
    Here's a couple more of the bottom for you, sans the tape.
    Thanks.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  20. #220
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    The mechanic at my local bike shop didn't think it was necessary to face or ream the frame. I did need to have the BB shell chased. I couldn't install the left side BB bearing cup due to too much paint on the BB shell threads. I was afraid I might cross thead it if I forced it in.

  21. #221
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well Sette Ace Build



    Here is, well was my build. I was an early adopter (October 2007) and I have encountered a ton of people asking about the frame. I really like the bike and have posted a review in the frame section. I'm curious to know how people feel about the geometry of this frame. I found it a little front heavy but the steep head tube angle made the bike corner well and made the bottom bracket height nice. I was never in love with the shock and am glad to see it has been changed on the new bikes.

    But I also have some bad news...sorry to hijack this thread



    Unfortunately after an endo over a log last week the bike started creaking really bad and I discovered a crack on my down tube. I have not been able to find anyone who has needed to file a warranty claim with Sette yet. I'm curious to know if there is anyone out there who has tried to get a frame repaired.

    I don't want to discourage anyone from purchasing an Ace. If anything I figured this would be a good opportunity to see if Sette is prepared to stand behind their product. Anyway I'll keep you guys updated with my progress.

    -carlos

  22. #222
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    It will definitely be interesting to see how they react to this, hopefully with great support. Glad that didn't break out more during a ride for you as well, that might not have been very good.
    Good luck and let us know. I got my frame a few weeks ago but haven't had the time to build it up yet.. looking forward to trying it out.
    - mike -

  23. #223
    NedwannaB
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    From looks of it......

    Quote Originally Posted by carlos-ma-xc
    Unfortunately after an endo over a log last week the bike started creaking really bad and I discovered a crack on my down tube.
    -carlos
    .....downtube/headtube looks like they took the force(s) of fork compressing in towards frame. Did you endo after T-bone'g the log or after going over it?? Just curious.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  24. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47
    .....downtube/headtube looks like they took the force(s) of fork compressing in towards frame. Did you endo after T-bone'g the log or after going over it?? Just curious.
    I was tired and came up short when I tried to lift the front tire over the log. It stopped me dead, front fork compressed fully and I went superman over the handlebars. I'd have to imagine it was already fatigued and that crash was the straw that broke the camels back. Yes I do tend to crash a lot (because I suck) but my buddies Jamis XC pro has taken just as much abuse and its still going strong after 4+ years. I admit I put a ton of hard miles on the frame but I don't think it should have failed this early. I'm only 160 lbs and I don't do any kind of drops. I don't know, if it was my fault then fine I'll accept that, if not I think it should be fixed.

    carlos

  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlos-ma-xc
    I was tired and came up short when I tried to lift the front tire over the log. It stopped me dead, front fork compressed fully and I went superman over the handlebars. I'd have to imagine it was already fatigued and that crash was the straw that broke the camels back. Yes I do tend to crash a lot (because I suck) but my buddies Jamis XC pro has taken just as much abuse and its still going strong after 4+ years. I admit I put a ton of hard miles on the frame but I don't think it should have failed this early. I'm only 160 lbs and I don't do any kind of drops. I don't know, if it was my fault then fine I'll accept that, if not I think it should be fixed.

    carlos
    What kind of speed were you carrying when you went OTB?

  26. #226
    NedwannaB
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    I wasn't questioning abuse...

    Quote Originally Posted by carlos-ma-xc
    It stopped me dead, front fork compressed fully and I went superman over the handlebars. I don't know, if it was my fault then fine I'll accept that, if not I think it should be fixed.

    carlos
    ...just by breaking on the underside of the d/t figured that's what probably happened, otherwise to break it there like that after going over the log you would have more likely face planted into terra firma!! .
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  27. #227
    SJR
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    Think theis frame would work well for a 200 pound trail rider? Is it stiff enough?

  28. #228
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    Should be.....

    Quote Originally Posted by SJR
    Think theis frame would work well for a 200 pound trail rider? Is it stiff enough?
    ......just don't T-bone any logs.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  29. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJR
    Think theis frame would work well for a 200 pound trail rider? Is it stiff enough?
    I weigh in at 240 fully loaded and the frame seems pretty stiff as far a frame flex. I am able to run a much lower psi in the rear shock than I ran in my Stumpjumper (250 psi), I run around 180 psi to be exact and suspension bob is minimal.

  30. #230
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    So I finally got my Ace out in the dirt last weekend and thought I would post a delayed report. I have no previous real FS experience (wally bikes don't count) so take that into consideration.

    Bottom line, I loved it. Frame felt plenty stiff, actually stiffer than my Trek 4500 which had issues w/ intermittent brake rotor rub do to frame flex (FWIW, I'm 5'10" @ 215lb w/o gear). My biggest fear was the penalty I would pay in climbing efficiency, especially since I'm still not in great, heck not even good, shape. I did not feel the bike played any roll in my climbing issues nor that it was not sapping my power as compared to my HT. What I did notice was the improved traction on the climbs and if anything an improvement.

    The decreased beating my old bones took was definitely noticed as was the greatly improved traction and confidence in the rocky downhill sections and the cornering was also great.

    As for pedal bob, I do notice some, at least when I look at the frame while pedaling. But if I wasn't looking for it, I never felt it, nor did I feel any penalty from it. The shock worked great, I used all the damping modes, probably more for psychological affect than anything, but they work as intended.

    I only had one issue w/ the bike, and that was Hydro/Cable housing rub leaving marks on the TT from suspension movement, pretty minor stuff.

    The one concern I had with this frame after receiving it and building it up was that I noticed the down tube seems to have a very thin wall section. Then with carlos-ma-xc's post, that concern has been reinforced. Hopefully won't be an issue since I'm too old to do anything really strenuous to the bike.

    All in all, very happy w/ the purchase. Now, if only I could ride more.

  31. #231
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    Well, I just replaced the handlebars and got a new training wheelset. Here are some pics before I get it dirty (again). And I know, I still need to cut down my hydro lines.

    I'm looking forward to a nice ride after work tomorrow!

    <a href="http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/wbholwell/?action=view&current=Bike102-e-s.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/wbholwell/Bike102-e-s.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    <a href="http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/wbholwell/?action=view&current=Bike104-e-s.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/wbholwell/Bike104-e-s.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    <a href="http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/wbholwell/?action=view&current=Bike105-e-s.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/wbholwell/Bike105-e-s.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    <a href="http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/wbholwell/?action=view&current=Bike116-e-s.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/wbholwell/Bike116-e-s.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    <a href="http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/wbholwell/?action=view&current=Bike114-e-s.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/wbholwell/Bike114-e-s.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    <a href="http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/wbholwell/?action=view&current=Bike120-e-s.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/wbholwell/Bike120-e-s.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    <a href="http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/wbholwell/?action=view&current=MartinMTB009-s.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/wbholwell/MartinMTB009-s.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
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  32. #232
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    Quote Originally Posted by bholwell
    Well, I just replaced the handlebars and got a new training wheelset. Here are some pics before I get it dirty (again). And I know, I still need to cut down my hydro lines.
    Maxxis "Prototype"?

    Looks like some nice low thread. Do you run it with sealant?

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curmy
    Maxxis "Prototype"?

    Looks like some nice low thread. Do you run it with sealant?
    The front is an Ardent 2.25, and the rear is an Aspen 2.1 (2.5mm center tread height). For the low tread height of the Aspen, it grips surprisingly well.
    Tire Design & Development Engineer. The opinions expressed in this forum are solely my own.

  34. #234
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    Where's the badge on the headtube? It looks a little naked without it. Throw a sticker on that.

    BTW...nice bike. Definitely looking good.

  35. #235
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    Whoa, very nice...


  36. #236
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    I'm the OP on this thread. I never did buy one of these but I think Price Point should consider giving me an Ace for starting this thread as it is probably the best advertising they could have hoped for. haha

  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skeeno
    Where's the badge on the headtube? It looks a little naked without it. Throw a sticker on that.
    Yeah, I think it looks a little naked too. I didn't like the original headtube badge, so off it came. (Probably saved 10g! ) I don't know about a sticker, though. Anyone have a recommendation for a replacement badge?

    Quote Originally Posted by Skeeno
    BTW...nice bike. Definitely looking good.
    Thank you


    Quote Originally Posted by Flat Ark
    I'm the OP on this thread. I never did buy one of these but I think Price Point should consider giving me an Ace for starting this thread as it is probably the best advertising they could have hoped for. haha
    Yeah, I agree. Or at least a discount. And while you're at it, tell them I'd like a discount on the Sette Phantom frame. I need to build up a light hardtail for my Xterra races.
    Tire Design & Development Engineer. The opinions expressed in this forum are solely my own.

  38. #238
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    Hello guys, I just started mntn biking last Aug. '08. Not sure if it would suit me, I got a basic Giant HT bike(boulder, large). I put in my share of tumbles in the few months of riding. Now, I think I like it and would now like to try a FS bike.

    Please allow me to cut to the chase:

    1. How would you rate the Sette Ace XC bike as is sold by Price Point with stock components?
    2. I have the ff build 5'10", 180lbs, 32 inseam and about 24-25" reach: according to PP's bike fit info I could either go 18.5" or 20.5". Which size would you recommend and why?

    I don't really intend to race, do high jumps nor DH at high speeds. It's more like doing stuff in moderation to bike another day.

    Thanks!

  39. #239
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    Yeah!.......

    Quote Originally Posted by Flat Ark
    I'm the OP on this thread. I never did buy one of these haha
    What's that all about? But with your 5 post, compared to my 25, I elect myself as 'most advertised' and should get a frame out of it! PP, are you getting any of this??
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  40. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by Biker46
    1. How would you rate the Sette Ace XC bike as is sold by Price Point with stock components?

    2. I have the ff build 5'10", 180lbs, 32 inseam and about 24-25" reach: according to PP's bike fit info I could either go 18.5" or 20.5". Which size would you recommend and why?

    I don't really intend to race, do high jumps nor DH at high speeds. It's more like doing stuff in moderation to bike another day.

    Thanks!
    (1) The bike, currently on sale for $999.98, is a great value IMO. SRAM X7 is a solid component level. It's built with Mavic 719 & XT disc hubs, a wheelset that cost me $285 delivered from BWW. PP specs 120mm fork, which slackens the geometry a bit. It'll improve DH handling, but may affect climbing and handling. I have 100mm fork on mine and I find that I can climb as well as I did on my HT with an 80mm fork. Speaking of forks, I would check around to see how well an RS Tora 302 air performs.

    (2) I would recommend the 18.5" for you. I'm 5'8", same reach, approx 31" inseam and while I have my bike dialed in, the first time I rode my Ace, it felt big. It would easily accomodate you. I don't know much about the differences between the Monarch 2.1 vs the 3.3, but the 3.3 shock rocks. I'm 235 lbs, with sag set 15% I'm only using 50% of the travel.

    I share your ride philosophy, I enjoy a challenging ride, but I'm no adrenaline junkie. I like to keep my rides within my skill level and under control.

  41. #241
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    Hello Guys,

    I'm also thinking of getting the Sette Ace, I'm just a beginner but I hope to do small drops and some jumps on this bike but I don't want to sacrifice climbing ability too much as well.
    Would you know if the Flite has bob issues and is difficult to climb with? I am torn between the Flite and the Ace. I have no plans to go into racing or fast downhills but just try to enjoy all features of the trails as much as possible. Your opinions are much appreciated.

  42. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by ojelijb
    Hello Guys,

    I'm also thinking of getting the Sette Ace, I'm just a beginner but I hope to do small drops and some jumps on this bike but I don't want to sacrifice climbing ability too much as well.
    Would you know if the Flite has bob issues and is difficult to climb with? I am torn between the Flite and the Ace. I have no plans to go into racing or fast downhills but just try to enjoy all features of the trails as much as possible. Your opinions are much appreciated.
    Flite is your ticket.

  43. #243
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    Why is Flite my ticket? some explanation would help me decide
    I'm 5'11, 160lbs in case this helps...

  44. #244
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    Expand your ride style

    Quote Originally Posted by ojelijb
    Why is Flite my ticket? some explanation would help me decide
    I'm 5'11, 160lbs in case this helps...
    Are they normal conditions encountered on xc/trail bike rides as in 1-2' drops and water bar jumps? Or more aggressive all mountain type stuff? You mentioned drops/jumps which would lean more to reccomending the Flite. Yes they could be done without issue on the Ace depending on how much/often you were doing them and of course to some degree rider dynamics could come into play.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  45. #245
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    Mostly on normal trail conditions. But I do hope to use it in on some bmx style dirt jumps occasionally(by occasionally i mean when i have the guts to do it which i still dont have). Thanks, I think I will go with the Flite. Either way it is a great upgrade for me from my 2nd hand 2000 univega hardtail. Would you recommend medium or large? my height is right between those two sizes in pricepoint's sizing chart.

  46. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by pogliaghi
    (1) The bike, currently on sale for $999.98, is a great value IMO. SRAM X7 is a solid component level. It's built with Mavic 719 & XT disc hubs, a wheelset that cost me $285 delivered from BWW. PP specs 120mm fork, which slackens the geometry a bit. It'll improve DH handling, but may affect climbing and handling. I have 100mm fork on mine and I find that I can climb as well as I did on my HT with an 80mm fork. Speaking of forks, I would check around to see how well an RS Tora 302 air performs.

    (2) I would recommend the 18.5" for you. I'm 5'8", same reach, approx 31" inseam and while I have my bike dialed in, the first time I rode my Ace, it felt big. It would easily accomodate you. I don't know much about the differences between the Monarch 2.1 vs the 3.3, but the 3.3 shock rocks. I'm 235 lbs, with sag set 15% I'm only using 50% of the travel.

    I share your ride philosophy, I enjoy a challenging ride, but I'm no adrenaline junkie. I like to keep my rides within my skill level and under control.
    Thanks a lot for your suggestions pogliaghi. I very much appreciate it.

  47. #247
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    Happy Father's Day.

    To all you Dads,

    Happy Father's Day!

    I'd celebrate part of this day on the trail, but it's raining, raining, raining here in NY.

  48. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swamp Rat
    The one concern I had with this frame after receiving it and building it up was that I noticed the down tube seems to have a very thin wall section. Then with carlos-ma-xc's post, that concern has been reinforced. Hopefully won't be an issue since I'm too old to do anything really strenuous to the bike.
    If I understood carlos-ma-xc's post correctly, he got his frame back in 2007. Question: has there been no change in ace's frame design since then?

  49. #249
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    Wow some of you are really good at putting decent parts on one of the worst looking frames I have ever seen. Each to their own, but why would you drop a whole bunch of cash on king headsets, DT swiss wheels, FOX and SID forks, Juicy 7 brakes and then get tight when it comes to the frame? $2000 buys a lot more bike than those tin cans.

  50. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by C Dunlop
    Wow some of you are really good at putting decent parts on one of the worst looking frames I have ever seen. Each to their own, but why would you drop a whole bunch of cash on king headsets, DT swiss wheels, FOX and SID forks, Juicy 7 brakes and then get tight when it comes to the frame? $2000 buys a lot more bike than those tin cans.
    IMO, the frame is worthy of these components. I don't pay retail, but even if I did I would be happy with my purchases.

    And if you can show me a $2000 bike that matches the component spec and performance of mine, I'll buy you a beer.
    Tire Design & Development Engineer. The opinions expressed in this forum are solely my own.

  51. #251
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    Quote Originally Posted by C Dunlop
    Wow some of you are really good at putting decent parts on one of the worst looking frames I have ever seen. Each to their own, but why would you drop a whole bunch of cash on king headsets, DT swiss wheels, FOX and SID forks, Juicy 7 brakes and then get tight when it comes to the frame? $2000 buys a lot more bike than those tin cans.

    Please, this frame is probably made in the same factory as your cracknfale F3.
    "Do not touch the trim"

  52. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rivet
    Please, this frame is probably made in the same factory as your cracknfale F3.
    Umm? Bedford? That bike is looong gone, and it came with warranty, was half the price (retail) of what people pumped for some of these, has the best 80mm fork in the game and in its final incarnation came in at 10.2kg for under US$1500. Throw in geometry designed by an actual bike company with an R+D budget...


    Quote Originally Posted by bholwell
    And if you can show me a $2000 bike that matches the component spec and performance of mine, I'll buy you a beer.
    I looked for 2 minutes The parts stomp all over what you have, except for the seatpost and headset. (and they are not exactly performance critical parts)

    I would take this over a no-name bike too.

    Amazing frame, lots of the parts are nothing special, but IMO a $150 seatpost on a generic frame is money poorly spent in terms of allocating money to where it will have the most effective performance gains.

    And that is at internet prices, I have found better real life shops, despite what people say (on the internet) about brick and mortar bike shops being so expensive.

  53. #253
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    Quote Originally Posted by C Dunlop
    I looked for 2 minutes The parts stomp all over what you have, except for the seatpost and headset. (and they are not exactly performance critical parts)
    I wouldn't say the parts "stomp all over" what I have. I think my stem and saddle are better, the Mongoose's crankset and brakes are better, and everything else is fairly equal. And isn't Mongoose sold in Toys R Us and Wally World? Yes, much better than a "no-name" Sette frame.

    Quote Originally Posted by C Dunlop
    The Santa Cruz is a nice bike. 28 lbs is a little heavy for XC, though.

    Quote Originally Posted by C Dunlop
    IMO a $150 seatpost on a generic frame is money poorly spent in terms of allocating money to where it will have the most effective performance gains.
    IMO $87 is a great investment in a seatpost that will provide years of flawless service.

    Dunlop, do you have anything else to add besides nonconstructive criticism?
    Tire Design & Development Engineer. The opinions expressed in this forum are solely my own.

  54. #254
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    To answer the original question in the title of the thread, it probably is race worthy, whatever that is. It has sharp enough angles, although it is probably sloppier in the rear than most XC duallies made by mainstream companies with engineers on staff. (hint: the rear shock is not doing you any favours and is not in the same league as a FOX product)

    The one reservation I would have with regard to 'race worthiness' is that, in my experience, with a dual sus bikes, what feels great for one person feels sloppy for the next. Without riding one, even around the carpark, you have no idea if it suits you in comparison to other bikes of similar styles. This, generally, is true of riders who have not put significant amounts of time into pedal stroke (ie non-racer types) and who therefore induce bob much more than those who ride smoother.

    If you are seriously racing it, it is a heavy frame, and I would be greatful for anything more than a season, as has been shown by 1 dead frame out of 4 (?) in this thread. Racing is much harder on gear than even the most spirited dawdle around the trails, full stop.

    You could race and do well, but race-worthy is not really an adjective that should be attached to a bike, but a rider. However the frame would not be doing you any favours. There is nothing wrong with this as a cheapish bike, but there is a BIG difference between a bike of this level and a bigger-branded bike. The factory where it is welded makes little difference, it is more to do with design.

    I race and place well on a cheap rigid 1*9 29er surly. It is heavy. It is cheap, but I like it and it is strong as hell. For racing, does limit me. As far as frames go, I could pick up 6-8% in time terms (a lot) on a better frame. It is probably a similar case with a bike like this. Even with the blinged out version (bholwell) the frame is the weak point of the bike and I honestly thing you would be faster, more comfortable and a better riding bike if you had eased up on the bling (nice as it is) such as the masterpiece and the king h/s and put money into a nicer frame. Come new bike time you might be able to sell it too, as well as get linkage parts in a years time.

    Sorry if I come off as harsh. A question was asked, I am bored at work, I answered.

    my 2c. Happy riding.

  55. #255
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    Quote Originally Posted by bholwell
    I wouldn't say the parts "stomp all over" what I have. I think my stem and saddle are better, the Mongoose's crankset and brakes are better, and everything else is fairly equal. And isn't Mongoose sold in Toys R Us and Wally World? Yes, much better than a "no-name" Sette frame.
    Mongoose: better, cranks, fork, rear shock, brakes, drive train, FRAME, and wheels.

    That sure is a nice seatpost on that cheap frame though.

    Mongoose have been around since the 80s, they make kids bikes like nearly every other brand out there. They also make truly legit Mountain bikes.


    Quote Originally Posted by bholwell
    The Santa Cruz is a nice bike. 28 lbs is a little heavy for XC, though.
    The wheels are only good for dawdling around on. 26 pounds with race wheels and tyres. Ask 100 people if they would rather ride a Santa Cruz Blur XC or a Sette-whatteva. I think I know what 100 people will say.


    Quote Originally Posted by bholwell
    IMO $87 is a great investment in a seatpost that will provide years of flawless service.
    Sure. I've been riding 12 years and broken 1 seatpost, and that was an early carbon one. I don't get the whole thomson seat post + chris king headset thing. Kinda bland.

  56. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by ojelijb
    Why is Flite my ticket? some explanation would help me decide
    I'm 5'11, 160lbs in case this helps...
    More relaxed geometry, stronger frame, longer travel will let you enjoy the type of riding you have described.

  57. #257
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    Yea, that's the ticket

    Quote Originally Posted by Curmy
    More relaxed geometry, stronger frame, longer travel will let you enjoy the type of riding you have described.
    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47
    You mentioned drops/jumps which would lean more to reccomending the Flite
    ......kinda like what I said.......
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  58. #258
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    Quote Originally Posted by C Dunlop
    Sure. I've been riding 12 years and broken 1 seatpost, and that was an early carbon one. I don't get the whole thomson seat post + chris king headset thing. Kinda bland.
    I kinda like bland, extremely strong items being pointed at my arse and chest.

  59. #259
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    Thanks JMac and Curmy! this really helps... I think i'll wait until 6/29 passes... I want to see if Sette will increase the price on the Ace or it is just a marketing gimmick. then i'll feel better buying the flite because I know i have no choice since ace increased in price or because i know it was a marketing gimmick in the first place.

  60. #260
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    Quote Originally Posted by C Dunlop
    To answer the original question in the title of the thread, it probably is race worthy, whatever that is. It has sharp enough angles, although it is probably sloppier in the rear than most XC duallies made by mainstream companies with engineers on staff. (hint: the rear shock is not doing you any favours and is not in the same league as a FOX product)

    The one reservation I would have with regard to 'race worthiness' is that, in my experience, with a dual sus bikes, what feels great for one person feels sloppy for the next. Without riding one, even around the carpark, you have no idea if it suits you in comparison to other bikes of similar styles. This, generally, is true of riders who have not put significant amounts of time into pedal stroke (ie non-racer types) and who therefore induce bob much more than those who ride smoother.

    If you are seriously racing it, it is a heavy frame, and I would be greatful for anything more than a season, as has been shown by 1 dead frame out of 4 (?) in this thread. Racing is much harder on gear than even the most spirited dawdle around the trails, full stop.

    You could race and do well, but race-worthy is not really an adjective that should be attached to a bike, but a rider. However the frame would not be doing you any favours. There is nothing wrong with this as a cheapish bike, but there is a BIG difference between a bike of this level and a bigger-branded bike. The factory where it is welded makes little difference, it is more to do with design.

    I race and place well on a cheap rigid 1*9 29er surly. It is heavy. It is cheap, but I like it and it is strong as hell. For racing, does limit me. As far as frames go, I could pick up 6-8% in time terms (a lot) on a better frame. It is probably a similar case with a bike like this. Even with the blinged out version (bholwell) the frame is the weak point of the bike and I honestly thing you would be faster, more comfortable and a better riding bike if you had eased up on the bling (nice as it is) such as the masterpiece and the king h/s and put money into a nicer frame. Come new bike time you might be able to sell it too, as well as get linkage parts in a years time.

    Sorry if I come off as harsh. A question was asked, I am bored at work, I answered.

    my 2c. Happy riding.
    Sorry to say, but I find all the above as double talk nonsense. Really a product of a bored mind.

  61. #261
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    Agreed

    Quote Originally Posted by Biker46
    Sorry to say, but I find all the above as double talk nonsense. Really a product of a bored mind.
    Comments on lower quality frame, but admits to the same with his own. What does "placing well on a 1x9 Surly" have to do with weather this frame will suit someone else as an economical frame of choice. As far as too heavy, compared to what? I put more credibility in Duckman's post then any cyclebabble from Mr. Dunlop.

    That being said, I'm not too thrilled with how the cable routing loops on this frame. The Flite is a much better setup.

    Quote Originally Posted by Duckman
    Light enough. Average for a race frame. Diff not heavy tho. Meaning if you lose that day, its diff not because of the frames weight.

    The best run around 4.5lbs(Scale, Nitrous, Yeti, etc).
    For reference..
    My now 22.5lb std Spider M frame was 5.75lb(w/ seatpost clamp).

    My 02 M NRS with all ti hardware is 5.5lbs(w/ seatpost clamp).

    My 03 L NRS with ti hardware was 6.1lbs(booooo).
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  62. #262
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    An adaptation...

    This is my Sette Ace. there are many like it, but this one's mine. My Sette Ace is my best friend. It is my life. I must master my Sette Ace as I must master my life. Without me, my Sette Ace is useless, without my Sette Ace, I am useless. I must ride my Sette Ace true. I must ride faster then my enemy who is trying to outride me, I must outride him before he outrides me. I will. Before God I swear this creed: My Sette Ace and myself are the defenders of my trail, we are the masters of our mountain, we are the saviors of my life. So be it, until there is no more singletrack, but bikepaths. Amen.

  63. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbici
    This is my Sette Ace. there are many like it, but this one's mine. My Sette Ace is my best friend. It is my life. I must master my Sette Ace as I must master my life. Without me, my Sette Ace is useless, without my Sette Ace, I am useless. I must ride my Sette Ace true. I must ride faster then my enemy who is trying to outride me, I must outride him before he outrides me. I will. Before God I swear this creed: My Sette Ace and myself are the defenders of my trail, we are the masters of our mountain, we are the saviors of my life. So be it, until there is no more singletrack, but bikepaths. Amen.
    Go to sleep, Pvt. Joker

  64. #264
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    Quote Originally Posted by C Dunlop
    (hint: the rear shock is not doing you any favours and is not in the same league as a FOX product)
    I'm not doubting the goodness of Fox products as I know that they are great, but the Monarch must be a decent shock if it comes on the $6000 Santa Cruz Blur Carbon.

  65. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skeeno
    I'm not doubting the goodness of Fox products as I know that they are great, but the Monarch must be a decent shock if it comes on the $6000 Santa Cruz Blur Carbon.
    And you'll see just as many pro racers on SID Team and WC forks as you will on Fox- maybe more. And the claim that a X9/X7 drivetrain is better than an XT/XTR... ???

    Mr. Dunlop has no idea what he's talking about. It sounds like he hasn't even seen one of these frames firsthand, much less ridden one. Pure speculation based on ????
    Tire Design & Development Engineer. The opinions expressed in this forum are solely my own.

  66. #266
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    Nice shots bholwell! And lovely looking bike

  67. #267
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    I got the 2008 Mongoose Teocali Comp instead for about $770 tax & shipping included at performance bikes.
    almost half the price of the sette flite but hopefully not half the fun. hope i don't regret this.
    flamers start now...

  68. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by ojelijb
    I got the 2008 Mongoose Teocali Comp instead for about $770 tax & shipping included at performance bikes.
    almost half the price of the sette flite but hopefully not half the fun. hope i don't regret this.
    flamers start now...
    Congrats! For that price, it's not a bad choice. Now go ride and enjoy. Soon you'll be looking for excuses to spend the money you saved to improve your ride. That's how I ended up with a Thomson seatpost.

  69. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by pogliaghi
    Congrats! For that price, it's not a bad choice. Now go ride and enjoy. Soon you'll be looking for excuses to spend the money you saved to improve your ride. That's how I ended up with a Thomson seatpost.

    Hahaha! This is exactly how i tried to justify getting the new bike in the first place:

    1.) supposed savings from getting my first bike 2nd hand at only $200 ~ $200 in savings assuming that people normally get $400 beginner bikes.
    2.) always eat left over dinner food for lunch at work ~ $7 a day X 4 days/week X 8 weeks = $224 (2 months worth of saving)
    3.) give up the six pack hoegarden every 2 weeks ~ $40 over 2 months
    4.) will sell my old bike sometime for ~ $150
    5.) will sell my PS3 games and Wii Guitar Hero at sometime ~ $50
    6.) using milk coupons for baby's milk ~ $5 per can X 2 cans a week ~ $40

    so add all those up together = 200 + 224 + 40 + 150 + 50 + 40 = $724, approximately $50 short of what I paid for but that is what my wife called a fathers day gift because I couldnt bring myself to buy it online so she clicked for me

    oh i forgot bike to work 3x a week which approximately saves $40 in gas every month... but I wasnt able to do this consistently so maybe I can do this next time to justify the XTR components that are coming

  70. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by ojelijb
    that is what my wife called a fathers day gift because I couldnt bring myself to buy it online so she clicked for me


    Are you going to assemble the bike yourself or bring it to your lbs? Hmmm, it comes to mind that buying on-line places oneself in such a situation. I am mechanically inclined, but have no experience in putting a bike together. Some of you guys may have done so many times over. How difficult is it to do? Tips and tricks? Anybody?

  71. #271
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    Are you going to assemble the bike yourself or bring it to your lbs? Hmmm, it comes to mind that buying on-line places oneself in such a situation. I am mechanically inclined, but have no experience in putting a bike together. Some of you guys may have done so many times over. How difficult is it to do? Tips and tricks? Anybody?
    Its fairly easy. just torque things TO SPEC! not as tight as you can possibly get it and remember that the bottom bracket has left hand threads on one side and you should be fine. Have your lbs press in your headset cups and the headset fork crown race (bottom peice of headset), unless you have a tool or made your own. Everything else is fairly retard proof. Just take your time and dont fudge things up. Oh, and I always have my lbs straighten my rear derailluer hanger when I'm done building a new bike. My 2 cents. hope it helps
    Dont wait, procrastinate now!

  72. #272
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    Advice Needed

    Some background info.

    160lbs 5'7" 32" inseam. Currently riding 1999 Gary Fisher joshua single pivot. Everything that matters is upgraded. Reba Uturn air fork, fox float, xt drivetrain. Forks started bleeding oil from the stantion, so rather than buy more stuff for an antiquated (but I still love her) frame I am looking to move up in the bike world.

    I like to ride fast. My current rig is about 30lbs. I also like to take some drops, nothing more than 5 feet though. The Fisher held it's own (surprisingly) for what I used it for. I am like a couple other people here, I don't have a ton of cash to drop on a bike every year, and I often err on the side of caution.

    So here is the question. Can the ace handle 140mm? I saw a pic of a relic with about that much, but no follow up. Pricepoint has the Sette ace fully built on sale for 999.99. I have read the tora is crap, so i plan on putting a Rock Shox Revelation dual air (utrun 110-140) or pike 426(uturn 95-110) and putting the tora on my gary fisher. The upside is the uturn can take me down to 95 (pike) or 110 (rev). I definitely want more than the 115mm that I was getting from the Reba.

    2nd question. Will the ace handle the rougher stuff? I like everything I hear about its climbing, but that is only 1/2 of the fun. Going down is also important. I am not talking 7' drops to flats, but can I dish out some punishment to a frame like this?

    3rd Question; I don't know a lot about builds, but is the one offered decent? The build amounts to about $500.

    Final Question: I am on about a $1500 budget here, and the ace with upgraded fork falls into that easily. Whatever I buy in the next few days needs to last me for a while. However, if the ace won't last because of the way I ride it, does anybody have any idea how I can build a Titus ML-1 up into that price range? I got the frame for $600, and I have the fork for $400, but is it likely that I can find a build as decent as the one offered on the Ace for only $530? Titus is an established name, but I have read some rave reviews on the ace.

    Lots of info, I apologize for the long post, but I am just a young guy 1yr into the sport looking for some good advice from some more experienced riders. Thanks!

  73. #273
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    Some background info.

    160lbs 5'7" 32" inseam. Currently riding 1999 Gary Fisher joshua single pivot. Everything that matters is upgraded. Reba Uturn air fork, fox float, xt drivetrain. Forks started bleeding oil from the stantion, so rather than buy more stuff for an antiquated (but I still love her) frame I am looking to move up in the bike world.

    I like to ride fast. My current rig is about 30lbs. I also like to take some drops, nothing more than 5 feet though. The Fisher held it's own (surprisingly) for what I used it for. I am like a couple other people here, I don't have a ton of cash to drop on a bike every year, and I often err on the side of caution.

    So here is the question. Can the ace handle 140mm? I saw a pic of a relic with about that much, but no follow up. Pricepoint has the Sette ace fully built on sale for 999.99. I have read the tora is crap, so i plan on putting a Rock Shox Revelation dual air (utrun 110-140) or pike 426(uturn 95-110) and putting the tora on my gary fisher. The upside is the uturn can take me down to 95 (pike) or 110 (rev). I definitely want more than the 115mm that I was getting from the Reba.

    2nd question. Will the ace handle the rougher stuff? I like everything I hear about its climbing, but that is only 1/2 of the fun. Going down is also important. I am not talking 7' drops to flats, but can I dish out some punishment to a frame like this?

    3rd Question; I don't know a lot about builds, but is the one offered decent? The build amounts to about $500.

    Final Question: I am on about a $1500 budget here, and the ace with upgraded fork falls into that easily. Whatever I buy in the next few days needs to last me for a while. However, if the ace won't last because of the way I ride it, does anybody have any idea how I can build a Titus ML-1 up into that price range? I got the frame for $600, and I have the fork for $400, but is it likely that I can find a build as decent as the one offered on the Ace for only $530? Titus is an established name, but I have read some rave reviews on the ace.

    Lots of info, I apologize for the long post, but I am just a young guy 1yr into the sport looking for some good advice from some more experienced riders. Thanks!

  74. #274
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    Quote Originally Posted by Biker46
    I am mechanically inclined, but have no experience in putting a bike together. Some of you guys may have done so many times over. How difficult is it to do? Tips and tricks? Anybody?
    I tend to agree with spartan034, it's not difficult if you know what you're doing, but too easy to screw things up if you do it wrong. Cross thread the BB and you have a problem.

    Read this bike build thread as a guide. Ask questions in the Tooltime forum. Refer to Sheldon Brown often, his articles are a great resource on all things bicycle. You'll need the right tools. Since your new at this, you might want to consider a torque wrench. Parks Tool TW-1 and Parks Tool TW-2. Get to know your local LBS. If they're any good, they'll provide good advise and treat you as a potential customer.

  75. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChemEBiker
    Some background info.

    160lbs 5'7" 32" inseam. Currently riding 1999 Gary Fisher joshua single pivot. Everything that matters is upgraded. Reba Uturn air fork, fox float, xt drivetrain. Forks started bleeding oil from the stantion, so rather than buy more stuff for an antiquated (but I still love her) frame I am looking to move up in the bike world.

    I like to ride fast. My current rig is about 30lbs. I also like to take some drops, nothing more than 5 feet though. The Fisher held it's own (surprisingly) for what I used it for. I am like a couple other people here, I don't have a ton of cash to drop on a bike every year, and I often err on the side of caution.

    So here is the question. Can the ace handle 140mm? I saw a pic of a relic with about that much, but no follow up. Pricepoint has the Sette ace fully built on sale for 999.99. I have read the tora is crap, so i plan on putting a Rock Shox Revelation dual air (utrun 110-140) or pike 426(uturn 95-110) and putting the tora on my gary fisher. The upside is the uturn can take me down to 95 (pike) or 110 (rev). I definitely want more than the 115mm that I was getting from the Reba.

    2nd question. Will the ace handle the rougher stuff? I like everything I hear about its climbing, but that is only 1/2 of the fun. Going down is also important. I am not talking 7' drops to flats, but can I dish out some punishment to a frame like this?

    3rd Question; I don't know a lot about builds, but is the one offered decent? The build amounts to about $500.

    Final Question: I am on about a $1500 budget here, and the ace with upgraded fork falls into that easily. Whatever I buy in the next few days needs to last me for a while. However, if the ace won't last because of the way I ride it, does anybody have any idea how I can build a Titus ML-1 up into that price range? I got the frame for $600, and I have the fork for $400, but is it likely that I can find a build as decent as the one offered on the Ace for only $530? Titus is an established name, but I have read some rave reviews on the ace.

    Lots of info, I apologize for the long post, but I am just a young guy 1yr into the sport looking for some good advice from some more experienced riders. Thanks!
    Saw this in another MTBR thread: $599 for Titus ML-1: http://www.coloradocyclist.com/product/item/TITAMRM8

  76. #276
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    Quote Originally Posted by Biker46


    Are you going to assemble the bike yourself or bring it to your lbs? Hmmm, it comes to mind that buying on-line places oneself in such a situation. I am mechanically inclined, but have no experience in putting a bike together. Some of you guys may have done so many times over. How difficult is it to do? Tips and tricks? Anybody?

    I will try to assemble the bike myself though I've never done a mountain bike before. Last time I've tinkered with bike parts was almost 20 years ago when I turned my bmx into a midget mountain bike with 7 rear gears and a mountain bike bar with the bmx frame hahahaha. I got my bike tool, an adjustable wrench, and a pair of pliers i don't think it will be terribly complicated but who knows they say you learn the fastest by doing.

    By the way here's a pic of my first mountain bike 2000 Univega (soon to be replaced tomorrow )
    DSC05160.JPG

  77. #277
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChemEBiker
    ...I also like to take some drops, nothing more than 5 feet
    ...Can the ace handle 140mm
    ...Will the ace handle the rougher stuff?
    ...is the one offered decent? The build amounts to about $500.
    ...is it likely that I can find a build as decent as the one offered on the Ace for only $530?
    I think you're better off building the ML-1. The Ace is spec'd for 120mm fork, 140mm would, IMO, noticeably affect climbing and handling. I doubt the Ace will hold up to the type or riding you describe. $530 is pushing it. PP sells an X.7 drivetrain for $230, Avid Juicy 3 brakes $140 for a front/rear set, and XT wheelset for $150. You'll still need a headset, and to transfer over seatpost, stem, handlebar and saddle. Or you could go with PP $550 X.7 build kit and settle for mech disc and Deore hubs.

  78. #278
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    I was thinking the 140mm fork would make the downhill better, because I can drop it down to 95/110 on the climbs.

    Basically, even if that alleviates the spec problems, I am probably better off with the more rugged ML-1 frame?

    How is a frame of this caliber, or any XC frame for that matter, designed to be used? 5' drops are a no no? Will the ML-1 fare any better? What exactly is the difference between XC, FR, and AM? Sorry, I told you I was a bit new to the sport

    I've read some pretty bad reviews about the juicy 3s, if I do build the ML-1 the Avid bb7 almost seem like a better bet until I upgrade to shimano slx or m770 discs. THe Fisher I have is v-brake, so I am sure that even the avid mech will wow me.

    Not trying to hijack this thread, and I will remove myself to the titus forum for more specific ML-1 quesions, but I don't want to discount this bike, because it is hard to walk away from a $1k complete with pretty good parts.

  79. #279
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    Think NO warranty...

    Quote Originally Posted by ChemEBiker
    I was thinking the 140mm fork would make the downhill better, because I can drop it down to 95/110 on the climbs.
    ....and possible carnage. The Ace is engineered for 120mm. Your fork may work, but you will be really choppering (is that a word?) the front end quite abit and adding stress on the headtube area. Doubt they will warranty if something breaks, plus a chance you'll be fixing something broken on yourself. The break in this pic would probably have torn clear thru had the poster been running a longer travel fork.

    With the type of riding you mention mostly doing, get the Flite. The 140mm will work fine on that. You could always pick up a longer travel fork later on down the road. In fact you'll be 1/2 way to buying one with the money saved not getting the ML. That's a good deal on those, might have picked one up myself if they had any smalls left.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  80. #280
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    Okay, thanks for the input. If i get an ace it needs to be with the understanding that it is an xc 120mm travel setup.

    So now it looks like ML-1 vs Flite. The flite with the fork I have is going to be about $1600. I think I can build the ML-1 up for around that much. I don't want to spend much more than 1600 on the ML1 because then I may as well just but a complete ml-1 for $2k.

  81. #281
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    I have an 80mm Manitou r7 absolute fork. How well does this frame work with 80mm forks? I am looking at this frame or the Sette Phantom Hardtail. website was recommending 100-120mm fork.

  82. #282
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    Quicker

    Quote Originally Posted by milo8172
    How well does this frame work with 80mm forks?
    Look back in the earlier posts, several are running 80mm on the Ace. Not sure if the geo of the frame has changed since they switched out the Manitou for the RS shock. (I didn't remember seeing the 100-120 note in the spec sheets with the Manitou)
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  83. #283
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    Ml1

    Quote Originally Posted by ChemEBiker
    Okay, thanks for the input. If i get an ace it needs to be with the understanding that it is an xc 120mm travel setup.

    So now it looks like ML-1 vs Flite. The flite with the fork I have is going to be about $1600. I think I can build the ML-1 up for around that much. I don't want to spend much more than 1600 on the ML1 because then I may as well just but a complete ml-1 for $2k.
    I thought I saw the Titus a couple hundred $ more then the Flite frame.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  84. #284
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    Quote Originally Posted by milo8172
    I have an 80mm Manitou r7 absolute fork. How well does this frame work with 80mm forks? I am looking at this frame or the Sette Phantom Hardtail. website was recommending 100-120mm fork.
    I'm guessing that it'll steepen up the HT angle making handling a bit more skittish. Between the reduced front travel and lively steering, your downhill rides will, IMO, be quite a bit more interesting.

  85. #285
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    Took the plunge.

    Hi guys,

    I went ahead and ordered the sette ace - complete bike. I did look into the shocks as pogliaghi suggested and found mixed reviews. Well, I guess I'll know first hand when it gets here.

    I'll let you guys know how it turns out. I'll probably have many questions.

    Thanks a lot to all of you.

  86. #286
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    After riding this bike a bit I was amazed how inefficient my pedal stroke was. Without all of the bob my previous bike had I was able to to a 9 mile/2400 foot climb about 10 minutes faster than before. I locked out the rear suspension and climbed the hill a gear higher than before. It's amazing the performance gains that are possible with a quality bike.

  87. #287
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    Happy 4th of July!

    Happy Independence Day!

  88. #288
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    Getting Acquainted.

    UPS delivered my Sette Ace yesterday morning. It came in an old beaten up box. Tsk, tsk, I thought, this better not be one of those recycled returns that some outfits do. Well, the box was literally falling apart, but happily the bike is new.

    I rode it a bit in the afternoon. It felt a little small. I need to put some riding time on it to really know since I am used to riding my large, 20" HT that is around 38-39 lbs. The complete Ace is about 8 to 9 lbs lighter. So, the feel is very different. It's like the diff between driving my BMW 325i and Mitsubishi Montero Sport. In any case, I had the saddle as far back as it can go and the handlebar(a riser) as high and as far forward it can go as well.

    As expected, it rode smoothly. I am still familiarizing myself with the shifters and the 27 speed settings. I notice that there is a long gap before the gear engages when I pause pedaling then resume. I don't know the technical term for this, if there is one.

    I have been hearing crackles and pops here and there - could be tire noise or just me focused on hearing everything the bike does. Here's one thing though, when I lift the front of the bike to go over something, the front suspension gives out a gasp as the fork stretches out. Is that normal? I never noticed that on my HT( and it has one of those inexpensive shocks.)

    There is no significant noticeable bob.

    The bike came with a shimano PD-M505 pedals. The tension screw already got lost. There is no quick release for the seatpost - very cheap of PP and very inconvenient.

    Some early thoughts: I may need a longer crank arm. A better pedal, preferably one with spd on one side and platform on the other. Maybe longer/wider handlebar(maybe). A saddle with longer rails, if they make 'em. Any recommendations?

    So, more riding tomorrow. Meanwhile, I'm celebrating July 4th - Bar-BQ and beer. Thank you America for all the wonderful things.

    I love this country, the United States of America!

  89. #289
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    Sette Ace

    OK, I just bit on this setup.. you guys better be right.. LOL

    I've been upgrading and riding my '05 Haro hardtail pretty regular for a few months now.. and my 42 year old spine thinks I've lost my mind. I've decided I want FS, so I took a test ride on a couple Specialized FSR XC's and even an FSR Comp... very nice. That was the first time I'd been on FS and I see what all the fuss is about.

    Well, I couldn't talk myself into the multiple thousands of $ it would take to get into the FSR XC Pro I wanted, and I didn't ride one long enough to get to know it anyway, so i figured i'd be a cheap SOB and go with the ACE as you guys seem quite happy with yours. The stumpy's are probably better bikes, but I'm more of the casual XC rider and I think the ACE will do me just fine.

    I almost ordered the full bike for $999, but i've put a lot of parts on my hardtail lately, and figured i could build a better bike with the stuff I have. I bought some parts, and have some parts so once it all arrives my ACE will consist of:

    20.5 in frame with Monarch 3.3
    Tora 318 SoloAir (from my hardtail)
    Crane Creek S-3 headset
    EA70 90mm stem
    EA70 DH mid-rise bar
    Ergon GR2 grips
    Avid SD-7 levers (from hardtail) and BB7 Disc brakes, 160r/185f
    SRAM attack shifters (from hardtail)
    XT rear der. (from hardtail)
    X-7 front der. (from hardtail)
    Deore M532 crankset (from hardtail)
    SRAM chain and cassette (from hardtail)
    Raceface seatpost
    E3 Form saddle (from hardtail)
    BWW wheelset (719's on XT hubs, I ordered for my hardtail a few weeks ago)

    The stumpy I had my eye on was going to be at least $1900, and most likely the $2200 model... I think i spent about $800 on the part above that I didn't already have. So assuming I like the ACE, I'll keep at least $1100 in my pocket.

  90. #290
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    abramsgunner, you won't be disappointed. I just did the same thing you are doing, going from my highly upgraded '08 Trek 4500 to the Ace. I'm 43 & think I ride similar to you, XC type trails and happy to get 1-2 ft of air and moderate speed. My body was feeling the HT harshness. The difference from a comfort, traction and sheer enjoyment of the ride w/ the Ace was amazing. Now this would be true of going to any FS, but still having all that $$ in your pocket only adds to it. I was drooling over a SC Blur LT2, but at $2K-$3K I just couldn't justify it, let a lone afford it for the type and amount of riding I get to do.

    My biggest issue w/ my Ace right now is, I've only gotten a couple rides and then had shoulder surgery. I do go admire it in the garage every few days still though.

  91. #291
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    Biker46... Tora SoloAirs are noisy on rebound.. the wheezzz is normal. It will quiet down some as you break it in, and you will forget about it. My Tora 318 did/does the same thing.. freaked me out at first.


    SwampRat.. yep, I have high hopes for the ACE. I don't have the stamina to work the frame too hard yet, but do have aspirations of racing again one day (more for the joy of participation than actually making the podium). I haven't ridden seriously in over 15 years, and now that I've returned... I regret missing out on all those years as it is just as fun now as it was then. The downside is that back then, I was in college up in the Ozark mountains of Arkansas, and now I'm in Lower Alabama... not nearly as pretty, and very sandy. Riding is not as fun here, but if I plan ahead, I can always pack up and drive north for some better terrain..

  92. #292
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    abramsgunner, lol, I know what you mean. I grew up in S. FL so there was no "mountain biking". The only climbing on a bike I did as a youth was an overpass. Now I live in Norcal in the S.F. Bay area and it seems like everything is up hill. I do love riding in the beautiful terrain & weather out here, even when I have to hike a bike, it's better than flat sugar sand in high humidity and afternoon thunderstorms.

  93. #293
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    Quote Originally Posted by Biker46
    ...I have been hearing crackles and pops here and there - could be tire noise or just me focused on hearing everything the bike does.
    I'm still trying to figure out some intermittent noises myself. I hear it at the beginning of the ride, but strangely goes away be the end of the ride.

    There is no significant noticeable bob.

    With rear shock set up correctly, I noticed that too. I only get pedal bob during hard standing climbs.

    There is no quick release for the seatpost - very cheap of PP and very inconvenient.

    Yup, been debating whether or not to replace it.

    Some early thoughts: I may need a longer crank arm. A better pedal, preferably one with spd on one side and platform on the other. Maybe longer/wider handlebar(maybe). A saddle with longer rails, if they make 'em. Any recommendations?

    Wow, you like your bike BIG. At 5'10" I figured 175mm crank would work. Think about replacing the stem with something longer, or a layback seatpost, or both. Note Bholwell fancy bike above. Hyperbolik also posted a layback.

    So, more riding tomorrow. Meanwhile, I'm celebrating July 4th - Bar-BQ and beer. Thank you America for all the wonderful things.

    I love this country, the United States of America!


    I'm with you,
    I'm gravity challenged, adrenaline deficient, and looking for that endorphine high. Shout out, I'll move out of the way. :-)

  94. #294
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    Something a little different

    It seems there is a lot of interest in the frames, so I though I would post mine up and give my impressions. I have had it for about a year and have logged quite a lot of trail miles on it. First off it is a Sette, it has just been painted/customized. I am a diehard hardtail guy (I still own one which I ride quite often), so getting a FS with efficient pedaling was a top priority for me. This bike more than delivers. I don't know if it the frame design, or the Manitou SPV, but it pedals great, with very little bob when going uphill. I run about 10% sag, which for many might be stiff, but I like it. The bike has held up to a lot of tough trail miles, and seems pretty strong. Its pretty light at about 27 lbs, with 640g 2.3 tires and a 4lb.Rockshox Revelation. With the U-turn on the fork I can increase travel to slacken the headtube angle, which makes it a pretty decent descender. All in all I think it makes a great XC trail bike, and with some lighter parts would make a great XC race bike. I would like to say that I took apart the rear swingarm and broke one of the bolts by overtorqueing it during re-installation. Pricepoint/Sette gave me absolutely no support after numerous attempts to get a new bolt. The reason I overtorqued the fastener is because Sette/Pricepoint could not even supply me with a list of torque specs. I eventually had to just go to a local bike store and have them look around in the parts bins to find a suitable bolt. So while I think it is a great frame, the customer service is lacking. Parts list is below. Total cost for the build was $1600.

    Frame: Sette Ace with Manitou S-type srl
    Fork: Rockshox Revelation 426 U-turn
    Brakes: Avid BB7
    Shifters: XT
    Derailleurs: XT
    Crankset: XTR M-952
    Pedals: Ritchey Pro
    Stem: Ritchey Pro
    Seatpost: Ritchey Pro carbon
    Seat: Rocket V with Nicro rails
    Wheels: Easton XC One
    Tires: Specialized Eskar S-works 2-bliss 26x2.3
    Cassette: SRAM PG990




    2013 Santa Cruz TRc 650b
    2015 Lynskey Cooper CX
    2010 Soma Groove
    1987 Haro RS1

  95. #295
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    ljsmith, Good to hear your frame has held up to some real riding...

    OK, my frame and extra parts are on there way.. should be here Friday but knowing UPS... it'll probably be Monday. I did get my BWW wheelset yesterday.. I went ahead and mounted them up on my hardtail but haven't had time to give them a ride yet.


    I'm starting to put her together in my mind.. you know, pre-game warmup, and was wondering:

    Anyone have any issue with headset, bottom bracket , or caliper mounts needing facing? My local shops don't deal with mountain bikes much and I know don't have the tools to face bottom brackets for external bearings (when I asked, they looked at me all funny). I doubt they have the tools to face caliper mounts. I imagine they have me covered on the headset though.


    EDIT: I just read about Avid's CPS.. so I am no longer worried about the caliper mounts for the BB7's I ordered. I'll keep my fingers crossed on the HS and BB.
    Last edited by abramsgunner; 07-07-2009 at 09:17 AM.

  96. #296
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    I didn't need either faced. They both mounted up nice and smooth. I was mostly worried about the BB because I have ruined one in the past on my Leader frame. I went really slow and had no problems.

  97. #297
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    flight or ace?

    I am relatively new to mountain biking, around here there are mostly just trails in the woods, no mountains. there are some drops anywhere from 4 - 8 ft. alot of rooty trails up and down hill. would the flight be too much suspension for trail riding? should I start off with the ace? then upgrade componets as needed? any input would be great. I'm in North Florida, alot of sandy trails too.

    thanks

  98. #298
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    Quote Originally Posted by rwrlb2
    there are some drops anywhere from 4 - 8 ft. alot of rooty trails up and down hill. would the flight be too much suspension for trail riding? should I start off with the ace?
    You should definitely start off with Flite among those two.

  99. #299
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    I'm not going to be dropping 8ft unless I can find a good deal on a parachute...

  100. #300
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    My Sette Ace XC

    Brought it last May 2009 and built it up:


    Frame: Sette Ace XC 16.5inches
    Shock: RS Monarch 3.3
    Fork: Suntour Epicon 100mm LO
    HB: FSA XC
    Stem: FSA 180
    SeatPost: GT (from GT)
    Seat: Velo Sport
    Brake Levers : Avid SD5
    Brakes: Avid BB7
    Shifters : Sram X.9
    FD: Sram X.7
    RD: Sram X.9
    Cogs: Sram X.9
    Chain : Sram X.9
    Crank: Truvativ Firex
    Pedals: Wellgo SPD
    Wheelset: Sun Ringle Disc O'Flea XC
    Tires: Specialized Roll X Race 2.0

    Weight Around : 25.5lbs

    Thanks for viewing!
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