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  1. #1
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    Converting the Razzo to a 1x9

    Ordering the Razzo is in the horizon so I'm putting parts list together to convert it to a 1x9 setup.

    I'll be using the N-gear to keep the chain from falling on the BB. I'm also thinking of using the Blackspire Stinger as a chainguide and tensioner. I'm not sure if the Stinger is really needed in this set up.

    I'll be replacing the big ring with a BBG Bashguard, I'm thinking of keeping the middle ring as a 32T for the time being. What should I replace the granny gear with? Are there specific rings or spacers that can replace it?

  2. #2
    AZ
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    You can just remove the small chainring , dosent have to be replaced with anything . You dont really need the tensioner , the rear derailluer does that job nicely . The N-Gear can be reworked to do double duty acting as a guide also , you may also have a look at the guide from Paul's Components .

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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ.MTNS
    You can just remove the small chainring , dosent have to be replaced with anything . You dont really need the tensioner , the rear derailluer does that job nicely . The N-Gear can be reworked to do double duty acting as a guide also , you may also have a look at the guide from Paul's Components .
    I'm considering the following setup:

    BBG Bashguard to replace the big ring.

    Blaskspire Blackguard to replace the inner ring.

    http://www.ride-this.com/index.php/b...ource=googleps

    That way the chain become sandwiched between the two guards and no need for the N-gear or even the tensioner. Does that seem right?

  4. #4
    AZ
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    That setup will work in all but the roughest conditions . Have a look at this , its a very clean way to prevent dropped chains , www.paulcomp.com/chainkeeper.html

  5. #5
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    I am using a BBG and the N-Gear jumpstop on mine with a 32T Blackspire Mono Veloce chainring. In spite of this, I still dropped the chain a few times (mostly when I crashed). If you are getting the complete Razzo, it comes with a long cage rear derailleur which really is overkill for a 1x9. I removed 2 links to tighten up the chain tension and have not dropped the chain since then (might have to crash a couple of times to see if this really works).


  6. #6
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    Why did you replace the stock 32T ring with the blackspire one?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dictatorsaurus
    Why did you replace the stock 32T ring with the blackspire one?
    It's a singlespeed ring with no ramps which the stock ring needs for the chain to shift. It reduces the chance of dropping the chain or ghost shifting off the ring.

    A side benefit is you should be able to flip the chainring backwards when the teeth starts to wear down on side and effectively extend the life of the chainring .

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by eujinc
    It's a singlespeed ring with no ramps which the stock ring needs for the chain to shift. It reduces the chance of dropping the chain or ghost shifting off the ring.

    A side benefit is you should be able to flip the chainring backwards when the teeth starts to wear down on side and effectively extend the life of the chainring .
    Very interesting. Do you wish you went with the 34T instead?

    My Flite is set at 32T and I've spun out a view times while going downhill or riding on the road.

  9. #9
    AZ
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dictatorsaurus
    Very interesting. Do you wish you went with the 34T instead?

    My Flite is set at 32T and I've spun out a view times while going downhill or riding on the road.


    IMHO , you would be better off basing your gearing on your low gear requirements , your probably going to spin out without a large chainring anyway . FWIW I spin out with a 36 tooth ring but I live in the mountains so YMMV .

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    Thanks for the suggestions guys.

    eujinc it looks like I'll be using your exact same setup. bbg, blackspire 32T and the n-gear.

    Paul's Components seems like the most suitable option but I'm gonna go weight-weenie on this thing (sounds fun, ha? ) Hopefully I'll order the bike soon and start racing next summer. I need to work on my handling and technique. I'm a masher by nature but I'm making a conscious effort to become more of a spinner. Mostly due to an old knee injury.

  11. #11
    AZ
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    The N-Gear can be reshaped so that the top of it goes over the chainring preventing drops . Do you have a road bike ? Road work is a great way to work on your spin , much easier to maintain a steady cadence . Make sure that your pedals and cleats have enough float , its much easier on the knees .

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ.MTNS
    The N-Gear can be reshaped so that the top of it goes over the chainring preventing drops .
    Like what I did...

    Big Foot Blue KHS XC704r

  13. #13
    AZ
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    Yep , something like that , simple yet effective .

  14. #14
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    Is that a bent N-Gear?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dictatorsaurus
    Do you wish you went with the 34T instead?
    Thought has crossed my mind but with the 32, it gives me the right amount of low gearing. 34T might be a tad too high even though I am running a 11-36 cassette. I do use the 32x36 for some of the lung-busting climbs here. Don't forget, you are turning bigger wheels too.

    Quote Originally Posted by AZ.MTNS
    IMHO , you would be better off basing your gearing on your low gear requirements .
    Very true.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dremer03
    Like what I did...
    Saw how you did it on the OCR site. That is a very good idea. I might have to steal that idea but not bend it all the way to the front since I have a bashguard.

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    http://www.mrpbike.com/product.php?s...roduct&item=1x

    This system works really well for me.

  18. #18
    AZ
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dictatorsaurus
    Is that a bent N-Gear?

    Yes..........................

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by eujinc
    Saw how you did it on the OCR site. That is a very good idea. I might have to steal that idea but not bend it all the way to the front since I have a bashguard.
    Bending it once into a L shape is super simple and will give you 100% coverage with the bashguard. It is quite difficult to get a good U shape bend without the proper tools. But with a bit of elbow grease and test fitting, it works well.

    Last edited by Dremer03; 04-21-2010 at 08:02 PM.
    Big Foot Blue KHS XC704r

  20. #20
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    I ordered the BBG and the N-gear.

    The Razzo should be here next week.

  21. #21
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    Awesome. Congrats.

  22. #22
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    I'm having two issues converting to 1x9.

    - The chainline is a little off. The middle ring 32T is more lined up with the smallest cog at the rear. Should I remove the spacer by the BB on the driveline side to line up the chainring with the middle cog at the back?

    - Having issues with the RD guide pulley clearing the biggest cassette cog. Could this be due to the bad chainline?

  23. #23
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    Got a picture?
    Big Foot Blue KHS XC704r

  24. #24
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    You can see from the picture the sharp angle the chain would make if I switch it to the biggest cog.

    Is it possible to remove the BB spacer from the driveline side and put it on the left side?

    That would mean having two spacers on the left side.


  25. #25
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    There shouldn't be a issue mounting the spacers on the other side.
    Big Foot Blue KHS XC704r

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