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  1. #101
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    Hi Gezzza,

    Would you mind tell me how many layers of yellow tape stick on the carbon rim ?
    I have the same rims / tires combo and would like to convert it to tubeless.
    How many psi you pump up the tires ?

    Thanks

  2. #102
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    Hi All,

    I would like to find out, is it correct to use a 100mm Fork on the Spark 50 2010?

    I understand the stock bike comes with a 120mm fork, however I intend to get the frame only and transfer my 100mm from my current bike.

    Thanks in advance.

  3. #103
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    I think 120mm is too much for a XC bike. My Spark (small) came with 80mm set Reba. Very good to uphill and enough travel for my use. Now I use a 100mm Sid.

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideFaster
    Move Those Qr Levers!!!!
    Why?

    they are ratchets so they cant be fliped open

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sonny
    Hi Gezzza,

    Would you mind tell me how many layers of yellow tape stick on the carbon rim ?
    I have the same rims / tires combo and would like to convert it to tubeless.
    How many psi you pump up the tires ?

    Thanks
    one layer of yellow tape and the Olympic valve needs some silicon to seal it.

    and you need CO2 or compressor to get them to work

    i run 28 psi front and rear

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gezzza
    one layer of yellow tape and the Olympic valve needs some silicon to seal it.

    and you need CO2 or compressor to get them to work

    i run 28 psi front and rear
    Thanks Gezzza !

    Silicon on tire beam ??

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sonny
    Thanks Gezzza !

    Silicon on tire beam ??

    On the olympic valve as the profile of the rim is differant to the valve, you cant get it to seal with out a tiny amount.

  8. #108
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    Spark 10 / DT XRC 1250 / SRAM XX

    Here is my Large 2007 Spark 10. Virtually all parts are new for the 2010 season and complete weight is 20.78 lbs.

    Part highlights are:
    2007 Scott Spark 10 frame (Large)
    Fox 32 Series F100RLC FIT fork
    DT Swiss XRC 1250 wheelset
    S-Works Fast Trak LK 2Bliss tires 2.0" (Set up w/ Stans yellow tape, Olympic valves, & sealant)
    SRAM XX drivetrain and brakes (Q166 26/39 crankset, 185 mm front/160 mm rear rotors, 11-36 cassette)
    Ritchey WCS: headset, 4-axis carbon matrix stem, carbon low rizer bar, foam grips, carbon seatpost, marathon saddle
    Eggbeater 4Ti pedals
    Alligator i-Link shift cables/housing
    Arundel bottle cage
    Garmin Edge 500 computer

    Sparks...lets see em-spark-1.jpg

    Sparks...lets see em-spark-2.jpg

    Sparks...lets see em-spark-3.jpg

    Sparks...lets see em-spark-5.jpg

  9. #109
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    Here´s my custom built 2009 Spark 10. I just bought the frame new and more or less moved over all the kit from my Scale. Nothing special about it really.
    XTR drivetrain and pedals, Fox 32 F100RLC, Thomson Elite X4 stem, Mavic Crossmax ST wheelset, Avid Juicy Ultimate brakes, Schwalbe Racing Ralph 2.25 tires. Weighs in at 10,45kg.
    My philosophy is "not too heavy, but not too light and fragile either!". Very satisfied with it so far. Lighter and more agile than anticipated.

    [IMG]Spark 10 side[/IMG]

    [IMG]Spark 10 front[/IMG]

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by E46_M3
    Here is my Large 2007 Spark 10. Virtually all parts are new for the 2010 season and complete weight is 20.78 lbs.

    Part highlights are:
    2007 Scott Spark 10 frame (Large)
    Fox 32 Series F100RLC FIT fork
    DT Swiss XRC 1250 wheelset
    S-Works Fast Trak LK 2Bliss tires 2.0" (Set up w/ Stans yellow tape, Olympic valves, & sealant)
    SRAM XX drivetrain and brakes (Q166 26/39 crankset, 185 mm front/160 mm rear rotors, 11-36 cassette)
    Ritchey WCS: headset, 4-axis carbon matrix stem, carbon low rizer bar, foam grips, carbon seatpost, marathon saddle
    Eggbeater 4Ti pedals
    Alligator i-Link shift cables/housing
    Arundel bottle cage
    Garmin Edge 500 computer

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Very nice spark! Anyone know where I can find that ritche wcs headset?

  11. #111
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    My Spark 60 2009, in its natural element.

    Any suggestions to lower the weight would be nice.

    Blueliner

  12. #112
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    Try again with the picture this time
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Sparks...lets see em-picture-332.jpg  


  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blueliner
    My Spark 60 2009, in its natural element.

    Any suggestions to lower the weight would be nice.

    Blueliner
    It generally comes down to "How much do you want to spend, i.e., what's it worth to you?"

    If that's your property where the picture was taken, you might want to sell an acre (hectare) or two (if the real estate market has yet to completely melt down in your neighborhood). With the proceeds, first purchase a Spark HMX frame (while the distribution routes are still flowing), then head over to weight weenies and choose the components that suit your fancy (ebay's and paypal's fee's are still tolerable) and spend the balance of those "proceeds" there. However, I suggest you sell half your property and buy gold, silver and the appropriate tools for growing food on the other half of the property. Keep your "60" and stock up on extra components for it, i.e. tires, tubes, etc.

    You might want to do this all before the global fiat currencies tank between now and the first quarter of 2011.

  14. #114
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    [QUOTE=timbuktu]It generally comes down to "How much do you want to spend, i.e., what's it worth to you?"

    If that's your property where the picture was taken, you might want to sell an acre (hectare) or two (if the real estate market has yet to completely melt down in your neighborhood). With the proceeds, first purchase a Spark HMX frame (while the distribution routes are still flowing), then head over to weight weenies and choose the components that suit your fancy (ebay's and paypal's fee's are still tolerable) and spend the balance of those "proceeds" there. However, I suggest you sell half your property and buy gold, silver and the appropriate tools for growing food on the other half of the property. Keep your "60" and stock up on extra components for it, i.e. tires, tubes, etc.

    You might want to do this all before the global fiat currencies tank between now and the first quarter of 2011.[/QUOTE

    I new I should have went with a Giant

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blueliner

    I new I should have went with a Giant
    LOL Brilliant!

    But responding your question. First of all pay attention to wheels. If you want to invest buy lightweight wheelset + nice and light tires + inner tubes OR install not (!) tubless tires on tubless rims with a speciall sealant.
    Low rotating mass makes big difference.

    After that need to sell some hectares… and invest in seatpost/handlebar/stem/crankset etc… good luck!

  16. #116
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    Here's my custom built Spark 09 LTD


  17. #117
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    Stock 2010 Spark 35 picked up on year end close out. Replaced Saddle and grips only so far. 0 miles on it so far

    --- jasper9 ---
    T: @jasper9
    W: http://www.jtri.com

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fast1
    What specifically do you feel the Racer-X does that is superior to the Spark?
    I currently have both a 2010 Spark 30 (frame only with all upgraded parts except stock Reba fork) and also a custom Titus X 2009 with RP23 Boost Valve and Fox RLC fork. Both are weighted exactly the same. Just today I disassembled my Spark for sale. Why? Because of 1 thing only, when the twin-lock is open in any of the 2 positions it bobs even on smooth pavement. Granted there is also a problem of excessive compression at the fork during hard front braking but I can live with that. Pedal bob is unacceptable for a bike costing so much. On the Titus even without pro-pedal on I can pedal as hard as I want on the road and it won't bob a bit. And oh I tried everything and the bob won't go away. I've actually managed to get 5 of my friends to buy Sparks of different models and they all exhibit the same bobbing issue. Someone said it's a problem with the frame design and that it's too much for the rear shock to bear everything. Who knows... all I know is Sparks do BOB. And it doesn't matter if it has one of the lightest frames in the world... the Titus (and probably a Santa Cruz or DWLink bike) is way faster on climbs, has better balanced seat tube angle, more stable on descents.

    Which gets back at my issue right now of searching for a frame lighter than the Titus X, the Blur XC or the ASR or the upcoming 100mm travel Ibis?

  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by Veda
    I currently have both a 2010 Spark 30 (frame only with all upgraded parts except stock Reba fork) and also a custom Titus X 2009 with RP23 Boost Valve and Fox RLC fork. Both are weighted exactly the same. Just today I disassembled my Spark for sale. Why? Because of 1 thing only, when the twin-lock is open in any of the 2 positions it bobs even on smooth pavement. Granted there is also a problem of excessive compression at the fork during hard front braking but I can live with that. Pedal bob is unacceptable for a bike costing so much. On the Titus even without pro-pedal on I can pedal as hard as I want on the road and it won't bob a bit. And oh I tried everything and the bob won't go away. I've actually managed to get 5 of my friends to buy Sparks of different models and they all exhibit the same bobbing issue. Someone said it's a problem with the frame design and that it's too much for the rear shock to bear everything. Who knows... all I know is Sparks do BOB. And it doesn't matter if it has one of the lightest frames in the world... the Titus (and probably a Santa Cruz or DWLink bike) is way faster on climbs, has better balanced seat tube angle, more stable on descents.

    Which gets back at my issue right now of searching for a frame lighter than the Titus X, the Blur XC or the ASR or the upcoming 100mm travel Ibis?
    I have a LTD spark with dt nude shock and I never have had a problem like you.
    Bobbing is soo light, I tried different bikes like cannondale rz, specialized epic and for me spark is the best. I set adeguate pressure into the shock and fork (a dt xrc) and when I put the traction control mode I pedal in the climb without energy loss and and exceptional grip

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by darioras
    I have a LTD spark with dt nude shock and I never have had a problem like you.
    Bobbing is soo light, I tried different bikes like cannondale rz, specialized epic and for me spark is the best. I set adeguate pressure into the shock and fork (a dt xrc) and when I put the traction control mode I pedal in the climb without energy loss and and exceptional grip
    Compared to those bikes, yes the Spark is still superior but with newer more modern suspension designs that got rid of bob without having to fiddle with lockout levers... it's outdated. But you have to agree that it still bobs a little regardless unless completely in locked position...

  21. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by Veda
    I currently have both a 2010 Spark 30 (frame only with all upgraded parts except stock Reba fork) and also a custom Titus X 2009 with RP23 Boost Valve and Fox RLC fork. Both are weighted exactly the same. Just today I disassembled my Spark for sale. Why? Because of 1 thing only, when the twin-lock is open in any of the 2 positions it bobs even on smooth pavement. Granted there is also a problem of excessive compression at the fork during hard front braking but I can live with that. Pedal bob is unacceptable for a bike costing so much. On the Titus even without pro-pedal on I can pedal as hard as I want on the road and it won't bob a bit. And oh I tried everything and the bob won't go away. I've actually managed to get 5 of my friends to buy Sparks of different models and they all exhibit the same bobbing issue. Someone said it's a problem with the frame design and that it's too much for the rear shock to bear everything. Who knows... all I know is Sparks do BOB. And it doesn't matter if it has one of the lightest frames in the world... the Titus (and probably a Santa Cruz or DWLink bike) is way faster on climbs, has better balanced seat tube angle, more stable on descents.

    Which gets back at my issue right now of searching for a frame lighter than the Titus X, the Blur XC or the ASR or the upcoming 100mm travel Ibis?
    Got 2 Sparks (HMX). One for training and one strictly for racing (18.5lbs.). Have yet to lose a race in two years. I'd say, proof is in the pudding.

    I think you got "BOB" on the brain. LOL.

    I'd say you need to get out of your brain and into your body.

    In regards to the "Titus is way faster on climbs", more LOL.

    Hey, any time, anywhere. Well, almost anywhere. How about this next summer in the Pacific NW? I've got a 4000' climb outside my backdoor. I was going to say "pink slip for pink slip?" but to be perfectly honest, I have absolutely no interest in your Titus.

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by timbuktu
    I think you got "BOB" on the brain. LOL. I'd say you need to get out of your brain and into your body. In regards to the "Titus is way faster on climbs", more LOL. Hey, any time, anywhere. Well, almost anywhere. How about this next summer in the Pacific NW? I've got a 4000' climb outside my backdoor. I was going to say "pink slip for pink slip?" but to be perfectly honest, I have absolutely no interest in your Titus.
    LOL. No need to get all sensitive and cocky when your bike is deemed to be worse than another's and go ranting on who's the faster superior cyclist since it's not part of the discussion. I'm only trying to prove a point about a particular bike in this case being the Spark which I own. Though I'm inclined to believe that if you actually use a Titus X you'd win those races faster. As for the bobbing it's not all in my head or what I felt when pedaling since I can actually see the shock moving by 1cm with every pedal. If you read my other posts, I've mentioned that we've got 9 Spark owners of different models in our group with most are selling it due to the bobbing. But if it's sufficient in your area to get you to the podium and you have no interest in learning how to improve your ride then hey more power to ya...

    How bout you come over to my place... let's see halfway around the world to Rotorua? Or Tasmania?

  23. #123
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    Veda,
    I've seen you posting here and at Star Bikes WW site on this topic. You are crazy to sell your Spark without buying a used RP23 off ebay or such. I have a 2007 Racer X alloy and a 2010 Exo-grid X. The Spark can hold its own. The last upgrade I did to my Spark was the RP23 and I wished it was the first.
    pimp of the year

  24. #124
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    Have anyone got there 2011 spark yet?

  25. #125
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    Nice Sparks :)

    Here is my sparkie,

    It's based on 2010 Spark Ltd, listed below Some of the new components:
    THM Clavicula MTB
    XX RD
    XX FD
    XX Triggers
    Cassette: 11-36XX
    Chain Rings: Carbon Ti 42/26
    MCFK Seat Post
    Tune Saddle speedneedle Alkantara
    Smudek Seat post Clamp
    QR Tune 16/17
    I've Changed to Formula 2P 160 Rotor
    Formula R1 Mixmaster
    I-Links cables
    Extralite cyberends

    8.700 kg / 19.180 pounds (include 4Ti Pedals)
    Cheers,
    Adi.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Sparks...lets see em-0.3.jpg  

    Sparks...lets see em-0.2.jpg  

    Sparks...lets see em-0.5.jpg  


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