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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by dufferin
    There are some spacers located on top of the spring on the left stanchion. You can remove some of those to lower the sag. If you're still not getting the correct sag with one spacer left, then you might want to change the spring to the yellow one.
    Actually, the fork seems just about perfect. I was talking about the rear shock. I've taken it out for a couple of rides to try to break it in, but it's still not giving me enough sag. The owner's manual suggests 40% sag (that seems a bit more than normal), and for 176-198lb riders (I'm about 195 w/ gear), it specs the 350lb spring, which is what's on my bike. I'm not sure what to do other than get a 300lb spring.

  2. #202
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    I'm about your weight, and Ben recommended a 300# or 350# spring for me, with the caveat that I'd need to run more compression damping with the 300#.

    The Voltage has a low leverage ratio, which lets you get away with lower spring rates.

  3. #203
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    Quote Originally Posted by buckoW
    Try tightening the main pivot with 2, 8mm allen keys.
    Thanks! I checked the main pivot, and it was very loose. I was able to easily tighten almost all of the pivots, so I'm gonna take it back to the shop and have them torque all the pivots to spec. What tightening I did got rid of the slop, but, not having a torque wrench, I don't want to really crank on those bearings.

    I'd love some tips on how to inexpensively reduce the weight, too! Mine left the shop at 40.5 lbs. First thing will be to cut the seatpost down a little bit.

  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by amish_matt
    I'm about your weight, and Ben recommended a 300# or 350# spring for me, with the caveat that I'd need to run more compression damping with the 300#.

    The Voltage has a low leverage ratio, which lets you get away with lower spring rates.
    Thanks! Problem is, the Fox Van R shock has no compression damping adjustment. So I wonder if I get a 300# spring, will I have enough range with the preload collar to get my sag set right? I'm a noob when it comes to actually setting up a DH/FR bike w/ a coil shock. I think I'll have to order the 300#er and just experiment.

  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by nprider
    Thanks! I checked the main pivot, and it was very loose. I was able to easily tighten almost all of the pivots, so I'm gonna take it back to the shop and have them torque all the pivots to spec. What tightening I did got rid of the slop, but, not having a torque wrench, I don't want to really crank on those bearings.

    I'd love some tips on how to inexpensively reduce the weight, too! Mine left the shop at 40.5 lbs. First thing will be to cut the seatpost down a little bit.
    Check the tubes. Sometimes they put DH tubes in there from the factory. I ride XC tubes for DH all the time.

    The other things you could think about replacing to save weight are the cranks, seat, post and cassette. I ask at road bike shops if they have any used Dura Ace 9sp cassettes laying around from people who changed to 10sp. It is the cheapest way I have found to get a light rear cassette.

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by nprider
    Thanks! Problem is, the Fox Van R shock has no compression damping adjustment. So I wonder if I get a 300# spring, will I have enough range with the preload collar to get my sag set right? I'm a noob when it comes to actually setting up a DH/FR bike w/ a coil shock. I think I'll have to order the 300#er and just experiment.
    You could get it custom tuned later if you think you need more compression.

  7. #207
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    got the 300# spring, and it feels much better. Can't wait til the snow melts!

  8. #208
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    stock headset

    I have a 2011 FR 20 with the stock FSA Orbit E 1.5R headset. I recently purchased a 160 mm fork for those non-shuttle days. Instead of swapping out the crown race every time, I want to purchase another race to simplify the swap. Every time I do a search I cannot find this headset, does the "E" stand for "xtreme" on FSA's website?

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdcatnau
    I have a 2011 FR 20 with the stock FSA Orbit E 1.5R headset. I recently purchased a 160 mm fork for those non-shuttle days. Instead of swapping out the crown race every time, I want to purchase another race to simplify the swap. Every time I do a search I cannot find this headset, does the "E" stand for "xtreme" on FSA's website?
    It is a standard bearing. Try another race from a similar headset. Your LBS might have something laying around. That is what I do for easy fork swaps.

  10. #210
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    Thanks buckoW

    Quote Originally Posted by buckoW
    It is a standard bearing. Try another race from a similar headset. Your LBS might have something laying around. That is what I do for easy fork swaps.
    I decided to go with a cane creek angleset. Now me and the LBS are trying to figure out which bottom cup I need.

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdcatnau
    I decided to go with a cane creek angleset. Now me and the LBS are trying to figure out which bottom cup I need.
    Same as the top one. It is a standard 1.5 headtube.

  12. #212
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    So it's been a while since I posted. Snowmobiling season and all. Before the end of bike season I put on a 32t font ring and a 10 speed cassette in the rear. Still using the High Roller tires and the fox 160 van up front. Weighs in at 35lbs. I hit Moab and pedeled a fair amount. It works nicely! This is a true all around bike. I like the way it pedels better than my 06 enduro. I just need a taller seat post for those big climbs. Just switch up to the Boxxer when hittin DH, jumps and drops @ winter park and your good to go. Awesome bike. At the end of the weekend everyone was wanting it.
    The more people I meet, the more I like my dog!!!

  13. #213
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    Im looking forward to ordering a new FR20, just need to sell my Sx Trail. I really want the adjustability of the Voltage. Who knows how much Ill actually change things up but it will still be nice to change setups if I need to or want to.
    2011 Euro Gold Demo 8

  14. #214
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    Voltage DH

    Is there a chance the Voltage DH will be put on production?

  15. #215
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    2010 sizing

    Hi guys, lots of great info on this thread!

    I'm keen to buy one right now!
    The 2010 models are on sale pretty cheap here in Australia at the moment. (FR10 is $2900 at a couple of shops).
    The only problem is, I can't find any shops that have any of the 2010 models in size 'long'.

    I'd rather not settle for a 2011 FR30, when for the same price I could have a 2010 FR10.

    I'm 178cm tall (5'11"), weigh 75kg (165lb).
    I guess I'm asking for comments from guys my size that are riding on a 'short' size Voltage. Does it feel too cramped?
    My riding style will predominantly be DH oriented, as opposed to Freeride/Jumping.
    my last DH bike was a 2008 Specialized Demo8, in Medium. It felt pretty short in the cockpit, compared to my med Glory which I owned before that.

    All this keeping in mind that I can extend the chainstay lengths by 10mm if I was to get the short frame. (at what cost? has anyone found an online supplier of dropouts?).

    Cheers,
    Hugh.

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by dufferin
    Is there a chance the Voltage DH will be put on production?
    No, it is a team only bike with no plans for production. The 2011 geo is very close with a -1 headset but with 1" less travel.

  17. #217
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    running a 160

    hey so i'm thinking of getting a 2011 FR30 and slapping on a 160 Van for pedaling it on the stuff here in Santa Cruz and keep the 180 Domain for the bike park trips. But i'd be running it at 160 most the time and i've heard running the shock at the lower setting doesn't perform as well(ramps up too quick, not as supple). So what's the best shock to run with a 160 fork: 150 short, 170 long, or 160 short on a longer shock. Prob would upgrade the shock down the road anyway, so what shock length feels best? I'm 6' 160lb-looking at a long as i'm not really a jumper but like fast n flowy stuff with a little bit of burly.

    Buckow your thoughts? Anyone else running a 160 and pedaling?

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by mdthreecs
    hey so i'm thinking of getting a 2011 FR30 and slapping on a 160 Van for pedaling it on the stuff here in Santa Cruz and keep the 180 Domain for the bike park trips. But i'd be running it at 160 most the time and i've heard running the shock at the lower setting doesn't perform as well(ramps up too quick, not as supple). So what's the best shock to run with a 160 fork: 150 short, 170 long, or 160 short on a longer shock. Prob would upgrade the shock down the road anyway, so what shock length feels best? I'm 6' 160lb-looking at a long as i'm not really a jumper but like fast n flowy stuff with a little bit of burly.

    Buckow your thoughts? Anyone else running a 160 and pedaling?
    Sounds like people are reducing the travel and running the same spring. If you want to run the 160mm mode then just make sure you are not over sprung. It is a very low leverage ratio so it can easily be over sprung.

    I like the bike a lot at 160mm but I have to run a 300lb spring maximum with the 240mm i2i shock. The shorter you go with the i2i the less progressive it becomes. It all depends on what type of suspension you like and how hard you hit corners, etc.. Either one would work well depending on your riding style.

    Are you aggressive and like to smash corners or are you smooth and carve your way through turns?

  19. #219
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    Yea i would say i try to be more smooth than aggressive through corners and i'm lightweight so i didn't want it feeling too stiff. I'm riding an AM 5.5" full squish now and this would be my first FR/DH bike as i'm getting into more of that type of riding, but am i being too ambitious in thinking i'm gonna pedal it at 160? Theres a lot of weight to be saved on the FR30 but not sure how it goes uphill-I know it wasn't intended to I'm just asking. Would the geometry be any steeper at 160? Long for sure at 6 ft.?

    Thanks for all the help

  20. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by mdthreecs
    Yea i would say i try to be more smooth than aggressive through corners and i'm lightweight so i didn't want it feeling too stiff. I'm riding an AM 5.5" full squish now and this would be my first FR/DH bike as i'm getting into more of that type of riding, but am i being too ambitious in thinking i'm gonna pedal it at 160? Theres a lot of weight to be saved on the FR30 but not sure how it goes uphill-I know it wasn't intended to I'm just asking. Would the geometry be any steeper at 160? Long for sure at 6 ft.?

    Thanks for all the help
    Yes get a long and don't worry about too firm. That is just question of running the right spring weight for you and your riding style.

    The bike pedals well and lots of people are surprised. It is not as efficient as an AM bike on the ups but much better on the downs. It will get steeper at 160 to 66 but you can get a Cane Creek Angle Set if you want it any steeper.

  21. #221
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    Just to make sure i get it. You like it with a 240mm e2e shocklengh with the 240mm shockmount in the short travel setting to achieve 160mm of rear travel with a 160mm fork. Then match my weight to the coil spring. Found this info from Scott off PB
    We recommend following coil springs:
    A - Short Travel:
    50-60 kgs 150x3.25
    60-70 kgs 200x3.25
    70-80 kgs 250x3.25
    80-90 kgs 300x3.25
    B - Long Travel:
    50-60 kgs 200x3.25
    60-70 kgs 250x3.25
    70-80 kgs 300x3.25
    80-90 kgs 350x3.25

    I'm 70kg plus gear so I should run a 250lb spring since i'd be in the short travel setting most all the time? Or would the 300lb spring be a better compromise if I want to run the longer setting sometimes with a 180mm fork? Guess it comes down to personal preference at that point. Looks like you have to compromise for whatever travel setting your not sprung for.
    Anyway thanks for the advice and the quick responses Ben

  22. #222
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    I am going to do the same thing. When I switched the rear shock to 160 I thought it was much more firm with the stock 350 spring. I should have my 160 fork set up this weekend so I'll let you know how it feels. I'm roughly 90 kgs not suited up. I switched the front chain ring to a 34t to help aid with pedaling up hill, but I have mostly used it for dh and haven't pedaled it much.

  23. #223
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    Last week I used the voltage fr 20 on the typical super d course at bootleg and was pleasantly surprised with how well the bike pedaled. That being said, I changed the boxxer out for a marz 55 and change the rear to the 160 setting, the bike is still around 36 lbs. Up hill was still a challenge, mainly due to the gearing, up everything from flat to a small climb I thought the bike did well for a fr bike.

    Also, I have gone down a few time and managed to scratch the beautiful green paint. I contacted Scott and they are sending out some paint to touch it up! Can't beat that!

  24. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by mdthreecs
    Just to make sure i get it. You like it with a 240mm e2e shocklengh with the 240mm shockmount in the short travel setting to achieve 160mm of rear travel with a 160mm fork. Then match my weight to the coil spring. Found this info from Scott off PB
    We recommend following coil springs:
    A - Short Travel:
    50-60 kgs 150x3.25
    60-70 kgs 200x3.25
    70-80 kgs 250x3.25
    80-90 kgs 300x3.25
    B - Long Travel:
    50-60 kgs 200x3.25
    60-70 kgs 250x3.25
    70-80 kgs 300x3.25
    80-90 kgs 350x3.25

    I'm 70kg plus gear so I should run a 250lb spring since i'd be in the short travel setting most all the time? Or would the 300lb spring be a better compromise if I want to run the longer setting sometimes with a 180mm fork? Guess it comes down to personal preference at that point. Looks like you have to compromise for whatever travel setting your not sprung for.
    Anyway thanks for the advice and the quick responses Ben


    No problem.

    I run a 300 lb spring in the long travel setting on a firm compression tuned RC4 and I am around 80 kilos so I would definitely recommend a 250 for you. The 225 lb springs for a 10.5" shock also fit on the 240mm i2i shocks by the way.

    It is better to have 2 springs if you want to have good performance in both travels. I run the good spring for me in the long travel hole and then the bike is firmer for jumps if I put it in the short travel hole.

  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdcatnau
    Last week I used the voltage fr 20 on the typical super d course at bootleg and was pleasantly surprised with how well the bike pedaled. That being said, I changed the boxxer out for a marz 55 and change the rear to the 160 setting, the bike is still around 36 lbs. Up hill was still a challenge, mainly due to the gearing, up everything from flat to a small climb I thought the bike did well for a fr bike.

    Also, I have gone down a few time and managed to scratch the beautiful green paint. I contacted Scott and they are sending out some paint to touch it up! Can't beat that!
    Sounds like the XX 12-36 tooth cassette would be good for you. I run that so I can climb a bit and keep my chain guide.

    The low leverage ratio and slightly higher than chain line pivot make the bike pedal really well. I am stoked you are liking it. Now let's get you the right gearing!

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