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  1. #176
    smartass
    Reputation: amish_matt's Avatar
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    Still some fine tuning and a few parts to swap, but done for now. Crap cell phone pic:



    Big thanks to Ben for answering all of my questions!

  2. #177
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    My custom build

  3. #178
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    Nice bikes guys! I love seeing all the different builds and suspension setups.

  4. #179
    smartass
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    bearback: What length shock and shock mount are you running there?

  5. #180
    Come at me bro.
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    5'6 tall...DH-oriented purpose...better off w/ the short frame?

    narrowed down my purchase next season to a FR20.

  6. #181
    Kona Rules!
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    Good job! Scott Voltage FR 30

    Quote Originally Posted by buckoW
    Hey Guys,

    Yeah, I have been very busy lately building trails and testing bikes.
    here are a couple pics of my bikes with different setups.

    A couple action shots







    and some bike pics



















    and these bikes were geometry testing team only versions that helped us fine tune the geometry for different fork heights.



    I will get back here to better explain some of the setup options later but for now I gotta run.
    Hi, I am looking at getting a Scott Voltage FR 30. How do you think it would compare with my kona stinky six? also could you measure the frame size on the size short?
    Thanks,
    Jesse

  7. #182
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    Hey guys. my 2011 FR10 (Long) has arrived! I haven't actually had chance to ride it yet, but I hope to go out tomorrow. I just have it set at 180mm front and back for now, but I tend to do quite a lot of jumpy trails so I might try the 165mm rear setting, but that might make the spring feel a little too firm...
    Anyway here is a pic!

    Cheers!

  8. #183
    No Gansta Lean here.
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    Quote Originally Posted by drastic.
    5'6 tall...DH-oriented purpose...better off w/ the short frame?

    narrowed down my purchase next season to a FR20.
    I'm 5'6" tall and sat (not ridden) on Amish Matt's Long frame...
    I'm heading toward a Short frame for my purchase in a few months..
    Hope that helps.
    EWR-HE-148-11-4-97
    Microbeer's Better!

  9. #184
    I crash, therefore I am
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    Just wanted to bump the thread since I ordered my 2011 FR20 from my LBS today. Should hopefully be in sometime in early to mid February.

    2011 Scott Voltage FR20
    2009 Rocky Mountain Slayer

  10. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by konarider234
    Hi, I am looking at getting a Scott Voltage FR 30. How do you think it would compare with my kona stinky six? also could you measure the frame size on the size short?
    Thanks,
    Jesse
    Hey Jesse,

    I have not ridden a Kona in a long time but the main difference is adjustability. If you are jumping a lot you can optimize the geo and suspension for that style of riding and if you are into DH then you can tune it for that too. You can have much shorter chain stays for example if you want to bike to be more playful. With the lower leverage ratio of the suspension system these bikes roll over rough terrain very well too. I think it would be a huge improvement over your old bike but take it for what it is worth. I am heavily biased so maybe one of these other guys can give you less biased advice.

    Hope that helps.

    Ben

  11. #186
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    2011 FR10 Long, ordered early December picked up late December. Very nice bike!

  12. #187
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    OK guys, I am looking for a bit of feedback on this frame...is anyone actually pedalling these bikes? I would need it to do some AM duty, and this frame is squarely up against a Knolly Delirium. I figure that the Delirium is probably a bit more on the AM/FR side, whereas this is FR/dh...but wanted to find out. It would be built with a 170mm Lyrik/5.1 rims/saints, etc.

    What kind of sag are you guys using? The manual specs 40%.
    Anyone running a dropper post on it?
    It seems that there is bottom out progression built into the leverage curve - does that seem to differ between the short and long travel mounts?
    Are the adjustable chainstay (IDS system) made for traditional wheels, or do I need a hub that has a 12mm thru axle? I currently have a CK HD set with Fun bolts.

    Ok, just trying to figure out if this is a frame that I can make work for me. Thanks in advance.

  13. #188
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    The pic above is of my bike and i run a KS i950 remote on it and helps alot. I have ridden it once for AM use and it did well but my fitness level is not as high as most so some hills i pushed up. I run 20% sag on front and about the same in the rear. I am not too sure about wheels but i know that the FR30 has a nutted rear wheel with track nut. I was debating on getting '11 SX Trail 2, Knolly Delirum and the Voltage FR10. I went with the Voltage because it got such great reviews, super adjustable and $1800 less that the Delirum with a lesser build and $1300 less than the SX with a similar build. Atleast those were the best prices i could find and i paid $3120 for my FR10. This bike can be run as hardcore FR, reasonable DH w/dual crown, Slopestyle and with a front derailur and couple chain rings on front i feel like it would be a decent AM rig. I think it could be a 1 bike with the mounts and drop outs and a rp23. Thats just how i feel.

  14. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by meSSican
    The pic above is of my bike and i run a KS i950 remote on it and helps alot. I have ridden it once for AM use and it did well but my fitness level is not as high as most so some hills i pushed up. I run 20% sag on front and about the same in the rear. I am not too sure about wheels but i know that the FR30 has a nutted rear wheel with track nut. I was debating on getting '11 SX Trail 2, Knolly Delirum and the Voltage FR10. I went with the Voltage because it got such great reviews, super adjustable and $1800 less that the Delirum with a lesser build and $1300 less than the SX with a similar build. Atleast those were the best prices i could find and i paid $3120 for my FR10. This bike can be run as hardcore FR, reasonable DH w/dual crown, Slopestyle and with a front derailur and couple chain rings on front i feel like it would be a decent AM rig. I think it could be a 1 bike with the mounts and drop outs and a rp23. Thats just how i feel.
    Thanks for the feedback!

    About the chainrings/derailleur , I don't think it was an option on this bike, but I could be wrong. I don't really mind as I can ride a 32t on about anything where I live.

  15. #190
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    Yeah, it wasn't an option on any of the models. The FR10 and 20 come with 36t and the FR30 rocks a 34t up front.

  16. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharacterZero
    OK guys, I am looking for a bit of feedback on this frame...is anyone actually pedalling these bikes? I would need it to do some AM duty, and this frame is squarely up against a Knolly Delirium. I figure that the Delirium is probably a bit more on the AM/FR side, whereas this is FR/dh...but wanted to find out. It would be built with a 170mm Lyrik/5.1 rims/saints, etc.

    What kind of sag are you guys using? The manual specs 40%.
    Anyone running a dropper post on it?
    It seems that there is bottom out progression built into the leverage curve - does that seem to differ between the short and long travel mounts?
    Are the adjustable chainstay (IDS system) made for traditional wheels, or do I need a hub that has a 12mm thru axle? I currently have a CK HD set with Fun bolts.

    Ok, just trying to figure out if this is a frame that I can make work for me. Thanks in advance.
    Hey,
    I think I have more like 30% sag in long travel mode, and less in short travel. There is a significant difference in feel between the two settings, the short travel feels like it ramps up much more.
    My FR10 has a bolt through rear axle, but I think that you can get a standard dropout for it according to http://www.scott-sports.com/download...reeride_en.pdf . The rear isn't incredibly stiff even with the bolt through so I wouldn't downgrade to a standard axle personally.
    It pedals okay, but the weight, amount of suspension and geometry would make it a real drag uphill! I guess it depends how often you ride "all mountain" and what sort of things you do on those rides.... Also maybe the low BB would be more of a problem for pedally AM stuff, although its great for drifting corners and railing berms
    Hope that helps a little

  17. #192
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    I was one of the lucky ones who got a FR20 with boxxers, however, the fork seems to be super stiff. I'm 195 lbs w/o gear and I am lucky to get 20% sag with the compression backed out all the way. Anyone else experience this? Is there a solution? It has the stock (red) spring in it.

  18. #193
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    Hi there! After looking all the posts I can be sure bike is the best most versatile bike planning getting one but sizing prob, lbs out of stock for Long size only left short, I'm 1.76m ard 5"7Feet doing mostly all mountain occasionally DH & light FR what size shoul I get.
    Last edited by Lotr7905; 01-13-2011 at 12:42 AM.

  19. #194
    No Gansta Lean here.
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    I'm right around your height and am headed toward a Short size.
    EWR-HE-148-11-4-97
    Microbeer's Better!

  20. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by amish_matt
    Still some fine tuning and a few parts to swap, but done for now. Crap cell phone pic:



    Big thanks to Ben for answering all of my questions!
    sweet build.
    How does it weight?

  21. #196
    smartass
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    Thanks.

    As it sits there, it's 37.75lbs.

    It was mostly built with parts from my last frame, and I'll probably make a few changes once I get some ride time on it, but that's not going to be for a while.

    2010 Voltage FR-10 frame
    RP23 shock
    Totem 1.5 coil
    FSA Orbit E headset
    Thomson stem and seatpost
    Spank Spike 777 bar
    Sunline half waffle grips
    WTB silverado saddle
    X9 shifter and short cage derailleur
    Juicy 7's 203f/185r
    Hone cranks
    36t e.13 ring
    LG-1+
    KMC X9SL chain
    Ultegra cassette
    Atomlab Aircorp pedals
    Outlaw wheels
    Kenda Excavator 2.5's w/XC tubes

    It may end up with a coil shock and a 36 180 Float, which would probably be a wash, weight-wise, and possibly some lighter wheels, but for now, it's "done."

  22. #197
    No Gansta Lean here.
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    Weight Schmeight......
    The Totem should probably go...
    I hear that you may have a buyer for it.
    Bring that jawn over tonight so that we can do some fine tuning on it....
    EWR-HE-148-11-4-97
    Microbeer's Better!

  23. #198
    nprider
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    just picked mine up!

    So I just got my 2011 Voltage FR 20, and holy hell is it bright! Like retina-burning bright. Greener than it looked on the computer screen, but damn it is a sexy bike. I've got a couple questions, and any tips would be helpful. First, I weigh between 190 and 200 lbs w/ gear, but with the stock 350 lb spring, I can't quite even get 30% sag, and the preload collar is backed out as far as it will go without allowing the spring to rattle. Is it just that the shock needs broken in? (I've never had a DH/FR bike before) The other question I have is about the stiffness of the rear end. I will start by saying that while I have not felt any flex while riding so far, doing the old grab the tire and shake test reveals a surprising amount of wobble. Is it just designed that way? I know that a certain amount of lateral flex can be good for cornering, but it feels like alot. My Enduro doesn't flex like that, and that's with a QR axle. I would expect the rear end to be super-stiff and solid, but it's not. I can't find the source of the play, either. Could be the hub, dropouts (doubt it), or any of the pivots (doubt that, too- they are pretty massive), or it could be the shock link, which looks a tad flimsy to me. With all that said, I can't wait til bike park season! Pretty sure my first run will be Silky Johnson at SolVista bike park. God I can't wait!

  24. #199
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdcatnau
    I was one of the lucky ones who got a FR20 with boxxers, however, the fork seems to be super stiff. I'm 195 lbs w/o gear and I am lucky to get 20% sag with the compression backed out all the way. Anyone else experience this? Is there a solution? It has the stock (red) spring in it.
    There are some spacers located on top of the spring on the left stanchion. You can remove some of those to lower the sag. If you're still not getting the correct sag with one spacer left, then you might want to change the spring to the yellow one.

  25. #200
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    Quote Originally Posted by nprider
    I can't find the source of the play, either. Could be the hub, dropouts (doubt it), or any of the pivots.

    Try tightening the main pivot with 2, 8mm allen keys.

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