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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by dufferin
    There are some spacers located on top of the spring on the left stanchion. You can remove some of those to lower the sag. If you're still not getting the correct sag with one spacer left, then you might want to change the spring to the yellow one.
    Actually, the fork seems just about perfect. I was talking about the rear shock. I've taken it out for a couple of rides to try to break it in, but it's still not giving me enough sag. The owner's manual suggests 40% sag (that seems a bit more than normal), and for 176-198lb riders (I'm about 195 w/ gear), it specs the 350lb spring, which is what's on my bike. I'm not sure what to do other than get a 300lb spring.

  2. #202
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    I'm about your weight, and Ben recommended a 300# or 350# spring for me, with the caveat that I'd need to run more compression damping with the 300#.

    The Voltage has a low leverage ratio, which lets you get away with lower spring rates.

  3. #203
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    Quote Originally Posted by buckoW
    Try tightening the main pivot with 2, 8mm allen keys.
    Thanks! I checked the main pivot, and it was very loose. I was able to easily tighten almost all of the pivots, so I'm gonna take it back to the shop and have them torque all the pivots to spec. What tightening I did got rid of the slop, but, not having a torque wrench, I don't want to really crank on those bearings.

    I'd love some tips on how to inexpensively reduce the weight, too! Mine left the shop at 40.5 lbs. First thing will be to cut the seatpost down a little bit.

  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by amish_matt
    I'm about your weight, and Ben recommended a 300# or 350# spring for me, with the caveat that I'd need to run more compression damping with the 300#.

    The Voltage has a low leverage ratio, which lets you get away with lower spring rates.
    Thanks! Problem is, the Fox Van R shock has no compression damping adjustment. So I wonder if I get a 300# spring, will I have enough range with the preload collar to get my sag set right? I'm a noob when it comes to actually setting up a DH/FR bike w/ a coil shock. I think I'll have to order the 300#er and just experiment.

  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by nprider
    Thanks! I checked the main pivot, and it was very loose. I was able to easily tighten almost all of the pivots, so I'm gonna take it back to the shop and have them torque all the pivots to spec. What tightening I did got rid of the slop, but, not having a torque wrench, I don't want to really crank on those bearings.

    I'd love some tips on how to inexpensively reduce the weight, too! Mine left the shop at 40.5 lbs. First thing will be to cut the seatpost down a little bit.
    Check the tubes. Sometimes they put DH tubes in there from the factory. I ride XC tubes for DH all the time.

    The other things you could think about replacing to save weight are the cranks, seat, post and cassette. I ask at road bike shops if they have any used Dura Ace 9sp cassettes laying around from people who changed to 10sp. It is the cheapest way I have found to get a light rear cassette.

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by nprider
    Thanks! Problem is, the Fox Van R shock has no compression damping adjustment. So I wonder if I get a 300# spring, will I have enough range with the preload collar to get my sag set right? I'm a noob when it comes to actually setting up a DH/FR bike w/ a coil shock. I think I'll have to order the 300#er and just experiment.
    You could get it custom tuned later if you think you need more compression.

  7. #207
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    got the 300# spring, and it feels much better. Can't wait til the snow melts!

  8. #208
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    stock headset

    I have a 2011 FR 20 with the stock FSA Orbit E 1.5R headset. I recently purchased a 160 mm fork for those non-shuttle days. Instead of swapping out the crown race every time, I want to purchase another race to simplify the swap. Every time I do a search I cannot find this headset, does the "E" stand for "xtreme" on FSA's website?

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdcatnau
    I have a 2011 FR 20 with the stock FSA Orbit E 1.5R headset. I recently purchased a 160 mm fork for those non-shuttle days. Instead of swapping out the crown race every time, I want to purchase another race to simplify the swap. Every time I do a search I cannot find this headset, does the "E" stand for "xtreme" on FSA's website?
    It is a standard bearing. Try another race from a similar headset. Your LBS might have something laying around. That is what I do for easy fork swaps.

  10. #210
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    Thanks buckoW

    Quote Originally Posted by buckoW
    It is a standard bearing. Try another race from a similar headset. Your LBS might have something laying around. That is what I do for easy fork swaps.
    I decided to go with a cane creek angleset. Now me and the LBS are trying to figure out which bottom cup I need.

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdcatnau
    I decided to go with a cane creek angleset. Now me and the LBS are trying to figure out which bottom cup I need.
    Same as the top one. It is a standard 1.5 headtube.

  12. #212
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    So it's been a while since I posted. Snowmobiling season and all. Before the end of bike season I put on a 32t font ring and a 10 speed cassette in the rear. Still using the High Roller tires and the fox 160 van up front. Weighs in at 35lbs. I hit Moab and pedeled a fair amount. It works nicely! This is a true all around bike. I like the way it pedels better than my 06 enduro. I just need a taller seat post for those big climbs. Just switch up to the Boxxer when hittin DH, jumps and drops @ winter park and your good to go. Awesome bike. At the end of the weekend everyone was wanting it.
    The more people I meet, the more I like my dog!!!

  13. #213
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    Im looking forward to ordering a new FR20, just need to sell my Sx Trail. I really want the adjustability of the Voltage. Who knows how much Ill actually change things up but it will still be nice to change setups if I need to or want to.
    2013 Yeti Sb66

  14. #214
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    Voltage DH

    Is there a chance the Voltage DH will be put on production?

  15. #215
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    2010 sizing

    Hi guys, lots of great info on this thread!

    I'm keen to buy one right now!
    The 2010 models are on sale pretty cheap here in Australia at the moment. (FR10 is $2900 at a couple of shops).
    The only problem is, I can't find any shops that have any of the 2010 models in size 'long'.

    I'd rather not settle for a 2011 FR30, when for the same price I could have a 2010 FR10.

    I'm 178cm tall (5'11"), weigh 75kg (165lb).
    I guess I'm asking for comments from guys my size that are riding on a 'short' size Voltage. Does it feel too cramped?
    My riding style will predominantly be DH oriented, as opposed to Freeride/Jumping.
    my last DH bike was a 2008 Specialized Demo8, in Medium. It felt pretty short in the cockpit, compared to my med Glory which I owned before that.

    All this keeping in mind that I can extend the chainstay lengths by 10mm if I was to get the short frame. (at what cost? has anyone found an online supplier of dropouts?).

    Cheers,
    Hugh.

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by dufferin
    Is there a chance the Voltage DH will be put on production?
    No, it is a team only bike with no plans for production. The 2011 geo is very close with a -1° headset but with 1" less travel.

  17. #217
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    running a 160

    hey so i'm thinking of getting a 2011 FR30 and slapping on a 160 Van for pedaling it on the stuff here in Santa Cruz and keep the 180 Domain for the bike park trips. But i'd be running it at 160 most the time and i've heard running the shock at the lower setting doesn't perform as well(ramps up too quick, not as supple). So what's the best shock to run with a 160 fork: 150 short, 170 long, or 160 short on a longer shock. Prob would upgrade the shock down the road anyway, so what shock length feels best? I'm 6' 160lb-looking at a long as i'm not really a jumper but like fast n flowy stuff with a little bit of burly.

    Buckow your thoughts? Anyone else running a 160 and pedaling?

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by mdthreecs
    hey so i'm thinking of getting a 2011 FR30 and slapping on a 160 Van for pedaling it on the stuff here in Santa Cruz and keep the 180 Domain for the bike park trips. But i'd be running it at 160 most the time and i've heard running the shock at the lower setting doesn't perform as well(ramps up too quick, not as supple). So what's the best shock to run with a 160 fork: 150 short, 170 long, or 160 short on a longer shock. Prob would upgrade the shock down the road anyway, so what shock length feels best? I'm 6' 160lb-looking at a long as i'm not really a jumper but like fast n flowy stuff with a little bit of burly.

    Buckow your thoughts? Anyone else running a 160 and pedaling?
    Sounds like people are reducing the travel and running the same spring. If you want to run the 160mm mode then just make sure you are not over sprung. It is a very low leverage ratio so it can easily be over sprung.

    I like the bike a lot at 160mm but I have to run a 300lb spring maximum with the 240mm i2i shock. The shorter you go with the i2i the less progressive it becomes. It all depends on what type of suspension you like and how hard you hit corners, etc.. Either one would work well depending on your riding style.

    Are you aggressive and like to smash corners or are you smooth and carve your way through turns?

  19. #219
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    Yea i would say i try to be more smooth than aggressive through corners and i'm lightweight so i didn't want it feeling too stiff. I'm riding an AM 5.5" full squish now and this would be my first FR/DH bike as i'm getting into more of that type of riding, but am i being too ambitious in thinking i'm gonna pedal it at 160? Theres a lot of weight to be saved on the FR30 but not sure how it goes uphill-I know it wasn't intended to I'm just asking. Would the geometry be any steeper at 160? Long for sure at 6 ft.?

    Thanks for all the help

  20. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by mdthreecs
    Yea i would say i try to be more smooth than aggressive through corners and i'm lightweight so i didn't want it feeling too stiff. I'm riding an AM 5.5" full squish now and this would be my first FR/DH bike as i'm getting into more of that type of riding, but am i being too ambitious in thinking i'm gonna pedal it at 160? Theres a lot of weight to be saved on the FR30 but not sure how it goes uphill-I know it wasn't intended to I'm just asking. Would the geometry be any steeper at 160? Long for sure at 6 ft.?

    Thanks for all the help
    Yes get a long and don't worry about too firm. That is just question of running the right spring weight for you and your riding style.

    The bike pedals well and lots of people are surprised. It is not as efficient as an AM bike on the ups but much better on the downs. It will get steeper at 160 to 66° but you can get a Cane Creek Angle Set if you want it any steeper.

  21. #221
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    Just to make sure i get it. You like it with a 240mm e2e shocklengh with the 240mm shockmount in the short travel setting to achieve 160mm of rear travel with a 160mm fork. Then match my weight to the coil spring. Found this info from Scott off PB
    We recommend following coil springs:
    A - Short Travel:
    50-60 kgs 150x3.25
    60-70 kgs 200x3.25
    70-80 kgs 250x3.25
    80-90 kgs 300x3.25
    B - Long Travel:
    50-60 kgs 200x3.25
    60-70 kgs 250x3.25
    70-80 kgs 300x3.25
    80-90 kgs 350x3.25

    I'm 70kg plus gear so I should run a 250lb spring since i'd be in the short travel setting most all the time? Or would the 300lb spring be a better compromise if I want to run the longer setting sometimes with a 180mm fork? Guess it comes down to personal preference at that point. Looks like you have to compromise for whatever travel setting your not sprung for.
    Anyway thanks for the advice and the quick responses Ben

  22. #222
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    I am going to do the same thing. When I switched the rear shock to 160 I thought it was much more firm with the stock 350 spring. I should have my 160 fork set up this weekend so I'll let you know how it feels. I'm roughly 90 kgs not suited up. I switched the front chain ring to a 34t to help aid with pedaling up hill, but I have mostly used it for dh and haven't pedaled it much.

  23. #223
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    Last week I used the voltage fr 20 on the typical super d course at bootleg and was pleasantly surprised with how well the bike pedaled. That being said, I changed the boxxer out for a marz 55 and change the rear to the 160 setting, the bike is still around 36 lbs. Up hill was still a challenge, mainly due to the gearing, up everything from flat to a small climb I thought the bike did well for a fr bike.

    Also, I have gone down a few time and managed to scratch the beautiful green paint. I contacted Scott and they are sending out some paint to touch it up! Can't beat that!

  24. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by mdthreecs
    Just to make sure i get it. You like it with a 240mm e2e shocklengh with the 240mm shockmount in the short travel setting to achieve 160mm of rear travel with a 160mm fork. Then match my weight to the coil spring. Found this info from Scott off PB
    We recommend following coil springs:
    A - Short Travel:
    50-60 kgs 150x3.25
    60-70 kgs 200x3.25
    70-80 kgs 250x3.25
    80-90 kgs 300x3.25
    B - Long Travel:
    50-60 kgs 200x3.25
    60-70 kgs 250x3.25
    70-80 kgs 300x3.25
    80-90 kgs 350x3.25

    I'm 70kg plus gear so I should run a 250lb spring since i'd be in the short travel setting most all the time? Or would the 300lb spring be a better compromise if I want to run the longer setting sometimes with a 180mm fork? Guess it comes down to personal preference at that point. Looks like you have to compromise for whatever travel setting your not sprung for.
    Anyway thanks for the advice and the quick responses Ben


    No problem.

    I run a 300 lb spring in the long travel setting on a firm compression tuned RC4 and I am around 80 kilos so I would definitely recommend a 250 for you. The 225 lb springs for a 10.5" shock also fit on the 240mm i2i shocks by the way.

    It is better to have 2 springs if you want to have good performance in both travels. I run the good spring for me in the long travel hole and then the bike is firmer for jumps if I put it in the short travel hole.

  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdcatnau
    Last week I used the voltage fr 20 on the typical super d course at bootleg and was pleasantly surprised with how well the bike pedaled. That being said, I changed the boxxer out for a marz 55 and change the rear to the 160 setting, the bike is still around 36 lbs. Up hill was still a challenge, mainly due to the gearing, up everything from flat to a small climb I thought the bike did well for a fr bike.

    Also, I have gone down a few time and managed to scratch the beautiful green paint. I contacted Scott and they are sending out some paint to touch it up! Can't beat that!
    Sounds like the XX 12-36 tooth cassette would be good for you. I run that so I can climb a bit and keep my chain guide.

    The low leverage ratio and slightly higher than chain line pivot make the bike pedal really well. I am stoked you are liking it. Now let's get you the right gearing!

  26. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by buckoW
    Sounds like the XX 12-36 tooth cassette would be good for you. I run that so I can climb a bit and keep my chain guide.

    The low leverage ratio and slightly higher than chain line pivot make the bike pedal really well. I am stoked you are liking it. Now let's get you the right gearing!
    Thanks for the advice. I have a 34t chain ring and just installed a 11-34 cassette to try out tomorrow. I'm sure this will make a huge difference.

  27. #227
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    New pic, minor updates:


  28. #228
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    I cant tell from the pic, are you running a totem coil or air?

  29. #229
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    Coil.

  30. #230
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    flex

    I'm wondering if anyone else who has a Voltage FR has noticed a lot of flex from the rear end. I have all my pivots torqued to spec, and the wheel is true and tight, but when I'm on off-camber, rooty/rocky sections, it feels like the rear wheel is steering itself in a different direction. It feels great in the corners, especially the berms, and I've been having fun getting loose and drifty with the bike, but the rear-end flex is disconcerting sometimes. Is it just part of the design (no cross-brace between the seatstays)? Am I overthinking it? For the record I've only had it out on xc/trailbike terrain, as it's unfortunately still ski season at the resorts (boo).

  31. #231
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    EVERY bike/sus design flexes at the rear.....
    EVERY one. Up to you how much you're willing to tolerate.
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  32. #232
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eastcoaster
    EVERY bike/sus design flexes at the rear.....
    EVERY one. Up to you how much you're willing to tolerate.

    sounds like he found how much he was willing to tolerate...

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by buckoW
    No problem.

    I run a 300 lb spring in the long travel setting on a firm compression tuned RC4 and I am around 80 kilos so I would definitely recommend a 250 for you. The 225 lb springs for a 10.5" shock also fit on the 240mm i2i shocks by the way.

    It is better to have 2 springs if you want to have good performance in both travels. I run the good spring for me in the long travel hole and then the bike is firmer for jumps if I put it in the short travel hole.
    Buckow, I see a lot of people running RP23s or DHX air. What's the difference in performance between the two, what types of riding are they better for? For a 215 i2i on a 2011. Thanks again for the input.

  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdcatnau
    Thanks for the advice. I have a 34t chain ring and just installed a 11-34 cassette to try out tomorrow. I'm sure this will make a huge difference.
    How's the gearing working for you? I'm pedaling my FR30 all over and could use some extra teeth as well. Do you or anyone know if you can use a 2x9 drivetrain with an e-type FD? Thinking a SLX 22/36 would be nice. Seems like it should work on paper but dunno for sure. If not looks likes 1x10 with a 11-36 is the way to go.

  35. #235
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    Quote Originally Posted by mdthreecs
    How's the gearing working for you? I'm pedaling my FR30 all over and could use some extra teeth as well. Do you or anyone know if you can use a 2x9 drivetrain with an e-type FD? Thinking a SLX 22/36 would be nice. Seems like it should work on paper but dunno for sure. If not looks likes 1x10 with a 11-36 is the way to go.
    It's better than what it was. The 1x10 might be a little better but to me it's one more gear to shift. My local trails are steep down followed by steep up. I just need to get used to not being on my other bike with a front der.

  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdcatnau
    It's better than what it was. The 1x10 might be a little better but to me it's one more gear to shift. My local trails are steep down followed by steep up. I just need to get used to not being on my other bike with a front der.

    I did a 1x10. AWESOME! I now use this as my all mtn/ freeride/ xc bike. I do a 10 min. fork swap and bingo, legit dh. Best move I ever made. I'm at around 35lbs right now with the van fork and dh tires. Lighter than my enduro! FR10 btw.
    The more people I meet, the more I like my dog!!!

  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by Allmtnman
    I did a 1x10. AWESOME! I now use this as my all mtn/ freeride/ xc bike. I do a 10 min. fork swap and bingo, legit dh. Best move I ever made. I'm at around 35lbs right now with the van fork and dh tires. Lighter than my enduro! FR10 btw.
    I have the fr20 and I believe mine is around 36 lbs. You can definitely pedal this bike but I'm try to keep up with my buddies with an ibis mojo hd and a pivot firebird. However like you said a 10 min fork swap and they can't keep up when we ride dh.

  38. #238
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    voltage DH

    What is the difference between the 2011 Voltage FR and the Voltage DH. I'm guessing travel is not adjustable, but is the geo the same, more travel? After watching the Floriane on those jumps today I just had to ask.

  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdcatnau
    What is the difference between the 2011 Voltage FR and the Voltage DH. I'm guessing travel is not adjustable, but is the geo the same, more travel? After watching the Floriane on those jumps today I just had to ask.
    The Voltage DH has 8 inches of rear travel a 1° slacker headangle (-2° for Floriane's bike) and a one piece link.

    She jumped those pretty well. I was happy for her. Emilie Siegenthaler did well on her's too!

  40. #240
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    Hello everyone, I'm a 30 year old from upstate NY that has been out of the mountain biking scene for some years, and I came across this thread while looking for a new toy.

    I've only ever ridden hard tails, but I've always wanted to add a FR to complement my Stumpy M2 Comp.

    I primarily ride in the local state park and Skidmore college's trails here in Saratoga Springs, NY. My friends and I have done the local mountain thing before, and I can't wait to get back to it, just not on my hard tail...

    I'm very interested in the Voltage FR 30. Is there anyone who wouldn't recommend this bike? Any recommendations for fitting this to someone who is 6'1" 250lbs? I'm new to full suspension, and I've been out of the scene for a while, but I'm a quick learn.

    thanks for your time, nice to meet you all.

    -J

  41. #241
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    Voltage FR rear triangle stiffness

    Hi All,

    This is a long and detailled thread regarding the Voltage FR and I've only seen a couple of comments regarding the stiffness of the rear triangle, but I though I would explicity ask:

    How stiff is the rear end of this bike (lateral/torsion)? (x-post with DH/FR forum)

    Reason I ask is that I think I'm going to get rid of my current 160mm frame, specifically because it's quite flexy in a sometimes-deeply-unnerving-middle-of-heavy-corner-needing-correcting-kinda-way, and it would be a shame to leap from frying pan into the fire....

    Thanks for any comments/insights!

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    Spring size?

    Chaps,
    Im a pretty big guy, 6ft3 , 111Kg without kit, I have an FR20 on order what spring would you reccomend for long travel?

    I was going to get one of these:
    Nukeproof 3" x 500 Lbs x 170mm Free Length

    Also have a pair of Fox 36 Van R 180s on the way, should i be thinking about upgrading the stock spring for somthing harder... not sure what it comes with, it should arive today

  43. #243
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vindicator65 View Post
    Chaps,
    Im a pretty big guy, 6ft3 , 111Kg without kit, I have an FR20 on order what spring would you reccomend for long travel?

    I was going to get one of these:
    Nukeproof 3" x 500 Lbs x 170mm Free Length

    Also have a pair of Fox 36 Van R 180s on the way, should i be thinking about upgrading the stock spring for somthing harder... not sure what it comes with, it should arive today
    Congrats on the new bike. Just received my new FR20 also. Man this bike is awesome!

    I know for 90kg Scott recommends a 350x3.25. With your weight you might be able to go with a 400 or 450 lb. spring. (but then again they’re also recommending 40% sag...?) Stock the bike comes with a 350x3.25. With gear I’m right at about 75kg. The stock sprig felt a little stiff for me, so I picked up the 300 lb. On my 6point I was running a 400 lb. spring.

    Only had the bike 2 days, so I still need to take it on a proper ride to feel her out.

  44. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terminator Z View Post
    Congrats on the new bike. Just received my new FR20 also. Man this bike is awesome!

    I know for 90kg Scott recommends a 350x3.25. With your weight you might be able to go with a 400 or 450 lb. spring. (but then again they’re also recommending 40% sag...?) Stock the bike comes with a 350x3.25. With gear I’m right at about 75kg. The stock sprig felt a little stiff for me, so I picked up the 300 lb. On my 6point I was running a 400 lb. spring.

    Only had the bike 2 days, so I still need to take it on a proper ride to feel her out.

    40% sag seems like a bit much for me, i checked out the spring rate calc on the mojo store, and it reckons i need 480.... dont know what sag this is at though, i think i am edging towards a 500

  45. #245
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Shepherd Wong's Avatar
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    Any chance a short frame would fit a 5'3" lanky female?

  46. #246
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    BB Height of Voltage FR 10 2011

    Hi all,

    one question: do you think the bottom bracket is "overexposed" to rocks and roots?
    I think that 348mm of height should not be enough...

    Thanks

  47. #247
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    I ride bootleg canyon on occasion which is known for it's rocky terrain. I do clip a pedal from time to time but it is nothing out of the ordinary from what every one else experiences out there. I would worry too much.

  48. #248
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    what rear spring should i get? I have the stock '11 FR10 and weigh about 240lbs with gear. Not sure which rate spring i should get. Thanks.

  49. #249
    killin clear creek
    Reputation: backcountryislife's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shepherd Wong View Post
    Any chance a short frame would fit a 5'3" lanky female?
    I'm 5'8 on a L, and my wife is 5'1 on a S, I'd say you could get away with either. I don't think you'd feel that the L would be "needed" unless all you ride is steeper true DH type riding.

    Messican, you can download (or view online) the user guide & it has the specs for you.

    http://www.scott-sports.com/download...reeride_en.pdf

    Page 6 has spring recommendations, you can extrapolate from their suggestions. I'd guess a 450 would be ideal for you if you're running max travel.
    Quote Originally Posted by thump View Post
    How about we take the "let it burn approach" with the rotting cesspool of the Denver metro?

  50. #250
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    Can't seem to find much on tuning the RC4. I am about 170-175 with gear. I am running a 300lb spring. how exactly would one tune the high speed compression?
    The more people I meet, the more I like my dog!!!

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