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  1. #151
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    You had best leave that trick to the pro's! I don't think you can handle a bike like that either. You best just stick to the Gambler.

  2. #152
    killin clear creek
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    Quote Originally Posted by Allmtnman
    You had best leave that trick to the pro's! I don't think you can handle a bike like that either. You best just stick to the Gambler.
    Yeah... probably right. If only i was as good at riding as I am at talking smack!!!



    Hey, thinking about using this as a DJ bike (I'd like to have 4"ish rear?) what kind of setup would you guys think would be ideal? There's so many doable configurations that I don't want to try to mix & match to find what would feel good. I've never had a FS DJ bike, so I'm not really sure what is ideal for that.
    Quote Originally Posted by thump View Post
    How about we take the "let it burn approach" with the rotting cesspool of the Denver metro?

  3. #153
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    What about the Transition Bottlerocket? That seems to be a sweet bike for dirtjumping. There was one on the Craigslist. I think it's a 5" bike and the geo. is similar. http://denver.craigslist.org/bik/1921225337.html

  4. #154
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    New Voltage Fr10

    Here are two pics of the Voltage fr10 frameset it built up. 2010 boxxer on the front and Avalanche in the rear. Can't wait to get out on this beast!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Scott Voltage FR-voltage-fr1.jpg  

    Scott Voltage FR-voltage-fr2.jpg  


  5. #155
    killin clear creek
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    So, of you guys that have the FR20, what have you done to the fork to make it work better?

    Allmtnman & I have 3 fr20's & have been pretty disappointed with the fork on it. If nobody has any better ideas I'm going to put an MC damper in it, cheap fix but likely not quite enough to make it worth keeping.
    Quote Originally Posted by thump View Post
    How about we take the "let it burn approach" with the rotting cesspool of the Denver metro?

  6. #156
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    Some new coastal Crew vids.

    CC - Episode 10 - http://www.pinkbike.com/news/CCEp10.html

    - Whip Edit/Dirt shoot -

  7. #157
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    So, anybody figure a way to mount a front derailer on this bike?

  8. #158
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    yeah ben those coastal crew videos are all badass.

  9. #159
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    What do you think of the new Scott Voltage FR20 with Rockshox Domain Dualcrown??

    http://www.scott-sports.com/us_en/pr...4/55660/217970


  10. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by lona79
    What do you think of the new Scott Voltage FR20 with Rockshox Domain Dualcrown??

    http://www.scott-sports.com/us_en/pr...4/55660/217970

    The BB on the 2011 frames is lower to optimize the geo for the 180mm SC forks and double crown forks. I think it feels sweet but I am thoroughly biased.

  11. #161
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    so my lbs finally got a voltage in stock and some shop info.

    something i'd be interested in if i got one of these bikes is playing with various shock sizes and drop-out lengths.

    but here's the sticking point: almost £100 for the shock mounts and £47 for drop-outs!!
    even if i just damage the mech hanger, boom! £47 on top of a new mech and probably some spokes.
    could i buy just the drive-side in that sort of situation?

    also, it's been mentioned that florian pugin uses angled headset cups in her wc bike. i've not been able to find these for semi-integrated headtubes. are hers' custom or does her proto frame use a traditional 1.5" headtube?

  12. #162
    SBT
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    After hemming and hawing over SX Trails and Bottle Rockets, I found this.

    And this I like. I mean, really, really like.

    One question, though. How does the DHX RC2 ride compared to the RC4? How much is lost, if anything really, without the ability to adjust the high-speed compression?

    Thanks for any opinions!

  13. #163
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    So I weighed this FR10 and it comes out @ 37.5 lbs with a boxxer race on the front. Seems like a pedalable bike to me. I am now in the process of putting a 32t ring in front and a 10 speed cassette in the rear, both of which seem to be lighter than the stock stuff. Should be around 36 to 37 lbs with the fox van, the paint stripped, and lighter drivetrain. I'll give a full report once finished. Lighter than my Enduro at this point.
    The more people I meet, the more I like my dog!!!

  14. #164
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    Here's a pic of the 10 stripped. 37.4 lbs with the Boxxer and yes the chain was on it when I weighed it.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    The more people I meet, the more I like my dog!!!

  15. #165
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    Heres a better one.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    The more people I meet, the more I like my dog!!!

  16. #166
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    Hey Voltage FR owners,

    How frequently do you *actually* change the suspension set-ups on your bike?

    So I've picked out the 2011 FR20 as the perfect bike for me (along with the shortest shock+hardware+fork option). I live in a tight space and have 4 bikes already. I want a bike that will handle an amateur DH race, days at the bike park, Big Mountain Shuttles, 4X, Dual Slalom, Dirt Jump, Urban, and the occasional Skate Park session (obviously with a few compromises made along the way).

    Unlike BuckoW, I can't have multiple frames in different set-ups and sizes so I'll be changing the entire suspension set-up once or twice a week. Does that sounds like an unrealistic hassle? Are people doing this or is it a set it and forget it (for a while) sort of thing?

  17. #167
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    Ok so im looking to buy a voltage fr10 but i dont like the build the shops sell i have had issues with truvativ parts cracking before. Im wondering if anyone can recomend a good build for the bike using a 180 mm front fork, i want to use the bike mostly for freeriding with the odd local downhill race. im looking to spend about £4000 thats like $6500.

    Thanks very much, sam.

  18. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by I R Biker
    Hey Voltage FR owners,

    How frequently do you *actually* change the suspension set-ups on your bike?

    So I've picked out the 2011 FR20 as the perfect bike for me (along with the shortest shock+hardware+fork option). I live in a tight space and have 4 bikes already. I want a bike that will handle an amateur DH race, days at the bike park, Big Mountain Shuttles, 4X, Dual Slalom, Dirt Jump, Urban, and the occasional Skate Park session (obviously with a few compromises made along the way).

    Unlike BuckoW, I can't have multiple frames in different set-ups and sizes so I'll be changing the entire suspension set-up once or twice a week. Does that sounds like an unrealistic hassle? Are people doing this or is it a set it and forget it (for a while) sort of thing?

    Changing the fork and shock are easy. When you start changing tires and disc size is when it becomes a pain for me. I run a Talas up front and keep the big discs so I only have to change tires and rear shock which works well for me. If you like working on your bike and getting it dialed in then it is not too big a deal.

    P.S. I usually only have one running because I always steal parts off the other bikes when something brakes.

  19. #169
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    New build started:


  20. #170
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    Hey guys
    I just ordered the new 2011 FR30, I didn´t order the FR20 because the 200mm dual crown has too much travel and the gears are getting partet out for the new x9 10 speed anyway, im also seriously consittering a setup with fox36 160mm travel.. Anyone know if the bb height is to low for the 160mm travel (i´ve heard the 2011 model has a lower bb)??

  21. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by kedde
    Hey guys
    I just ordered the new 2011 FR30, I didn´t order the FR20 because the 200mm dual crown has too much travel and the gears are getting partet out for the new x9 10 speed anyway, im also seriously consittering a setup with fox36 160mm travel.. Anyone know if the bb height is to low for the 160mm travel (i´ve heard the 2011 model has a lower bb)??
    It works great with the 160mm 36. You can run it in the 150 or 170 mm hole and will be fine. 150 mm if you want to be up a bit higher for pedalling and 170 if you want more stability in the corners. I run my Gambler's bb height lower and it has more travel. Low bb are so sick for cornering and drifting.

  22. #172
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    Hey guys :-)
    I just ordered my 2011 FR10 (Long - I am 6ft2 tall) - can't wait to receive it! Are there any upgrades that are immediately worthwhile (to save weight or better performance)? I am going to get some decent pedals, maybe Straitlines or similar, some tires, and might change the seat, grips and seatpost as they seem like pretty budget items on an otherwise top spec bike.

    The stock shock and fork will be my downhill / big freeride setup, but I am interested in getting an alternative setup for more jumpy tracks/ 4X so the shortest shock mounts, a suitable RP23 and a ~140mm fork . I don't want to mess about with changing headsets each time I swap the setup, so it would need to be a fork with a tapered steerer. Any suggestions, particularly from Buckow who seems to have tried every setup going are most welcome!
    Cheers! Pics will be uploaded when it arrives!

  23. #173
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    Yeah, you can save a bunch of weight with the seat, post and cranks. I would give the tires a try if you ride in dry conditions. I like the Muddy Mary for wet or mixed conditions.

    The OEM RP23 was a custom tuned shock for last year's bike so I would recommend a DHX air because it is easier to get the stock shock working well. If you do get an RP23 then get the BV one with a firm compression tune and the smallest air can possible. Even then you might want to shim the secondary air chamber to get it progressive enough for steep lips. The DHX 5 air can get you there by external adjustments. The mid stroke wallow people sometimes talk about with a DHX air was addressed with the linkage due to the mid stroke support mechanically and low leverage ratio.

    I really like a Talas on mine so I only have to change the rear shock and tires if I go jumping or FR/DHing. Have fun setting it up and don't hesitate to ask if you need advice on setup.

  24. #174
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    Hi - thanks for the great reply, I didn't know anything about the different tunes of the shocks or about the RP23 vs DHX air! That does sound a good idea, swapping out the VAN 36 180 for a Talas 180, I guess I would have to test out a TALAS to compare to the Van, as I have heard the Talas has poor small bump compliance. So the RC2 on the back with a Talas up front doesn't feel mismatched at all?
    So for the 135 mm rear travel I would want a 215mm rear shock - with what length stroke?
    Do you know what the geometry of the 2011 bike is with a 140mm fork and 135 on the rear?
    Thanks a lot for your advice- I know that is a lot of questions I asked there!

  25. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghosts_cloak
    Hi - thanks for the great reply, I didn't know anything about the different tunes of the shocks or about the RP23 vs DHX air! That does sound a good idea, swapping out the VAN 36 180 for a Talas 180, I guess I would have to test out a TALAS to compare to the Van, as I have heard the Talas has poor small bump compliance. So the RC2 on the back with a Talas up front doesn't feel mismatched at all?
    So for the 135 mm rear travel I would want a 215mm rear shock - with what length stroke?
    Do you know what the geometry of the 2011 bike is with a 140mm fork and 135 on the rear?
    Thanks a lot for your advice- I know that is a lot of questions I asked there!

    No problem.

    You would have around a 330mm bb height with the 140mm fork and 215mm i2i shock. The new 180 Talas with Kashima is a sweet fork. The Van has less to go wrong but I haven't had any problems with a Talas and the new ones are simpler. The RC2 is tuned for the frame OEM and works well with any of the 3 RC2 180mm forks from Fox. The HSC is internally set in the middle by the way. Make sure you are not over sprung.

  26. #176
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    Still some fine tuning and a few parts to swap, but done for now. Crap cell phone pic:



    Big thanks to Ben for answering all of my questions!

  27. #177
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    My custom build

  28. #178
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    Nice bikes guys! I love seeing all the different builds and suspension setups.

  29. #179
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    bearback: What length shock and shock mount are you running there?

  30. #180
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    5'6 tall...DH-oriented purpose...better off w/ the short frame?

    narrowed down my purchase next season to a FR20.

  31. #181
    Kona Rules!
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    Good job! Scott Voltage FR 30

    Quote Originally Posted by buckoW
    Hey Guys,

    Yeah, I have been very busy lately building trails and testing bikes.
    here are a couple pics of my bikes with different setups.

    A couple action shots







    and some bike pics



















    and these bikes were geometry testing team only versions that helped us fine tune the geometry for different fork heights.



    I will get back here to better explain some of the setup options later but for now I gotta run.
    Hi, I am looking at getting a Scott Voltage FR 30. How do you think it would compare with my kona stinky six? also could you measure the frame size on the size short?
    Thanks,
    Jesse

  32. #182
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    Hey guys. my 2011 FR10 (Long) has arrived! I haven't actually had chance to ride it yet, but I hope to go out tomorrow. I just have it set at 180mm front and back for now, but I tend to do quite a lot of jumpy trails so I might try the 165mm rear setting, but that might make the spring feel a little too firm...
    Anyway here is a pic!

    Cheers!

  33. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by drastic.
    5'6 tall...DH-oriented purpose...better off w/ the short frame?

    narrowed down my purchase next season to a FR20.
    I'm 5'6" tall and sat (not ridden) on Amish Matt's Long frame...
    I'm heading toward a Short frame for my purchase in a few months..
    Hope that helps.
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  34. #184
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    Just wanted to bump the thread since I ordered my 2011 FR20 from my LBS today. Should hopefully be in sometime in early to mid February.

    2011 Scott Voltage FR20
    2009 Rocky Mountain Slayer

  35. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by konarider234
    Hi, I am looking at getting a Scott Voltage FR 30. How do you think it would compare with my kona stinky six? also could you measure the frame size on the size short?
    Thanks,
    Jesse
    Hey Jesse,

    I have not ridden a Kona in a long time but the main difference is adjustability. If you are jumping a lot you can optimize the geo and suspension for that style of riding and if you are into DH then you can tune it for that too. You can have much shorter chain stays for example if you want to bike to be more playful. With the lower leverage ratio of the suspension system these bikes roll over rough terrain very well too. I think it would be a huge improvement over your old bike but take it for what it is worth. I am heavily biased so maybe one of these other guys can give you less biased advice.

    Hope that helps.

    Ben

  36. #186
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    2011 FR10 Long, ordered early December picked up late December. Very nice bike!

  37. #187
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    OK guys, I am looking for a bit of feedback on this frame...is anyone actually pedalling these bikes? I would need it to do some AM duty, and this frame is squarely up against a Knolly Delirium. I figure that the Delirium is probably a bit more on the AM/FR side, whereas this is FR/dh...but wanted to find out. It would be built with a 170mm Lyrik/5.1 rims/saints, etc.

    What kind of sag are you guys using? The manual specs 40%.
    Anyone running a dropper post on it?
    It seems that there is bottom out progression built into the leverage curve - does that seem to differ between the short and long travel mounts?
    Are the adjustable chainstay (IDS system) made for traditional wheels, or do I need a hub that has a 12mm thru axle? I currently have a CK HD set with Fun bolts.

    Ok, just trying to figure out if this is a frame that I can make work for me. Thanks in advance.

  38. #188
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    The pic above is of my bike and i run a KS i950 remote on it and helps alot. I have ridden it once for AM use and it did well but my fitness level is not as high as most so some hills i pushed up. I run 20% sag on front and about the same in the rear. I am not too sure about wheels but i know that the FR30 has a nutted rear wheel with track nut. I was debating on getting '11 SX Trail 2, Knolly Delirum and the Voltage FR10. I went with the Voltage because it got such great reviews, super adjustable and $1800 less that the Delirum with a lesser build and $1300 less than the SX with a similar build. Atleast those were the best prices i could find and i paid $3120 for my FR10. This bike can be run as hardcore FR, reasonable DH w/dual crown, Slopestyle and with a front derailur and couple chain rings on front i feel like it would be a decent AM rig. I think it could be a 1 bike with the mounts and drop outs and a rp23. Thats just how i feel.

  39. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by meSSican
    The pic above is of my bike and i run a KS i950 remote on it and helps alot. I have ridden it once for AM use and it did well but my fitness level is not as high as most so some hills i pushed up. I run 20% sag on front and about the same in the rear. I am not too sure about wheels but i know that the FR30 has a nutted rear wheel with track nut. I was debating on getting '11 SX Trail 2, Knolly Delirum and the Voltage FR10. I went with the Voltage because it got such great reviews, super adjustable and $1800 less that the Delirum with a lesser build and $1300 less than the SX with a similar build. Atleast those were the best prices i could find and i paid $3120 for my FR10. This bike can be run as hardcore FR, reasonable DH w/dual crown, Slopestyle and with a front derailur and couple chain rings on front i feel like it would be a decent AM rig. I think it could be a 1 bike with the mounts and drop outs and a rp23. Thats just how i feel.
    Thanks for the feedback!

    About the chainrings/derailleur , I don't think it was an option on this bike, but I could be wrong. I don't really mind as I can ride a 32t on about anything where I live.

  40. #190
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    Yeah, it wasn't an option on any of the models. The FR10 and 20 come with 36t and the FR30 rocks a 34t up front.

  41. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharacterZero
    OK guys, I am looking for a bit of feedback on this frame...is anyone actually pedalling these bikes? I would need it to do some AM duty, and this frame is squarely up against a Knolly Delirium. I figure that the Delirium is probably a bit more on the AM/FR side, whereas this is FR/dh...but wanted to find out. It would be built with a 170mm Lyrik/5.1 rims/saints, etc.

    What kind of sag are you guys using? The manual specs 40%.
    Anyone running a dropper post on it?
    It seems that there is bottom out progression built into the leverage curve - does that seem to differ between the short and long travel mounts?
    Are the adjustable chainstay (IDS system) made for traditional wheels, or do I need a hub that has a 12mm thru axle? I currently have a CK HD set with Fun bolts.

    Ok, just trying to figure out if this is a frame that I can make work for me. Thanks in advance.
    Hey,
    I think I have more like 30% sag in long travel mode, and less in short travel. There is a significant difference in feel between the two settings, the short travel feels like it ramps up much more.
    My FR10 has a bolt through rear axle, but I think that you can get a standard dropout for it according to http://www.scott-sports.com/download...reeride_en.pdf . The rear isn't incredibly stiff even with the bolt through so I wouldn't downgrade to a standard axle personally.
    It pedals okay, but the weight, amount of suspension and geometry would make it a real drag uphill! I guess it depends how often you ride "all mountain" and what sort of things you do on those rides.... Also maybe the low BB would be more of a problem for pedally AM stuff, although its great for drifting corners and railing berms
    Hope that helps a little

  42. #192
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    I was one of the lucky ones who got a FR20 with boxxers, however, the fork seems to be super stiff. I'm 195 lbs w/o gear and I am lucky to get 20% sag with the compression backed out all the way. Anyone else experience this? Is there a solution? It has the stock (red) spring in it.

  43. #193
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    Hi there! After looking all the posts I can be sure bike is the best most versatile bike planning getting one but sizing prob, lbs out of stock for Long size only left short, I'm 1.76m ard 5"7Feet doing mostly all mountain occasionally DH & light FR what size shoul I get.
    Last edited by Lotr7905; 01-13-2011 at 12:42 AM.

  44. #194
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    I'm right around your height and am headed toward a Short size.
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  45. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by amish_matt
    Still some fine tuning and a few parts to swap, but done for now. Crap cell phone pic:



    Big thanks to Ben for answering all of my questions!
    sweet build.
    How does it weight?

  46. #196
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    Thanks.

    As it sits there, it's 37.75lbs.

    It was mostly built with parts from my last frame, and I'll probably make a few changes once I get some ride time on it, but that's not going to be for a while.

    2010 Voltage FR-10 frame
    RP23 shock
    Totem 1.5 coil
    FSA Orbit E headset
    Thomson stem and seatpost
    Spank Spike 777 bar
    Sunline half waffle grips
    WTB silverado saddle
    X9 shifter and short cage derailleur
    Juicy 7's 203f/185r
    Hone cranks
    36t e.13 ring
    LG-1+
    KMC X9SL chain
    Ultegra cassette
    Atomlab Aircorp pedals
    Outlaw wheels
    Kenda Excavator 2.5's w/XC tubes

    It may end up with a coil shock and a 36 180 Float, which would probably be a wash, weight-wise, and possibly some lighter wheels, but for now, it's "done."

  47. #197
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    Weight Schmeight......
    The Totem should probably go...
    I hear that you may have a buyer for it.
    Bring that jawn over tonight so that we can do some fine tuning on it....
    EWR-HE-148-11-4-97
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  48. #198
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    just picked mine up!

    So I just got my 2011 Voltage FR 20, and holy hell is it bright! Like retina-burning bright. Greener than it looked on the computer screen, but damn it is a sexy bike. I've got a couple questions, and any tips would be helpful. First, I weigh between 190 and 200 lbs w/ gear, but with the stock 350 lb spring, I can't quite even get 30% sag, and the preload collar is backed out as far as it will go without allowing the spring to rattle. Is it just that the shock needs broken in? (I've never had a DH/FR bike before) The other question I have is about the stiffness of the rear end. I will start by saying that while I have not felt any flex while riding so far, doing the old grab the tire and shake test reveals a surprising amount of wobble. Is it just designed that way? I know that a certain amount of lateral flex can be good for cornering, but it feels like alot. My Enduro doesn't flex like that, and that's with a QR axle. I would expect the rear end to be super-stiff and solid, but it's not. I can't find the source of the play, either. Could be the hub, dropouts (doubt it), or any of the pivots (doubt that, too- they are pretty massive), or it could be the shock link, which looks a tad flimsy to me. With all that said, I can't wait til bike park season! Pretty sure my first run will be Silky Johnson at SolVista bike park. God I can't wait!

  49. #199
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdcatnau
    I was one of the lucky ones who got a FR20 with boxxers, however, the fork seems to be super stiff. I'm 195 lbs w/o gear and I am lucky to get 20% sag with the compression backed out all the way. Anyone else experience this? Is there a solution? It has the stock (red) spring in it.
    There are some spacers located on top of the spring on the left stanchion. You can remove some of those to lower the sag. If you're still not getting the correct sag with one spacer left, then you might want to change the spring to the yellow one.

  50. #200
    mtbr member
    Reputation: buckoW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    640
    Quote Originally Posted by nprider
    I can't find the source of the play, either. Could be the hub, dropouts (doubt it), or any of the pivots.

    Try tightening the main pivot with 2, 8mm allen keys.

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