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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by dufferin
    There are some spacers located on top of the spring on the left stanchion. You can remove some of those to lower the sag. If you're still not getting the correct sag with one spacer left, then you might want to change the spring to the yellow one.
    Actually, the fork seems just about perfect. I was talking about the rear shock. I've taken it out for a couple of rides to try to break it in, but it's still not giving me enough sag. The owner's manual suggests 40% sag (that seems a bit more than normal), and for 176-198lb riders (I'm about 195 w/ gear), it specs the 350lb spring, which is what's on my bike. I'm not sure what to do other than get a 300lb spring.

  2. #202
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    I'm about your weight, and Ben recommended a 300# or 350# spring for me, with the caveat that I'd need to run more compression damping with the 300#.

    The Voltage has a low leverage ratio, which lets you get away with lower spring rates.

  3. #203
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    Quote Originally Posted by buckoW
    Try tightening the main pivot with 2, 8mm allen keys.
    Thanks! I checked the main pivot, and it was very loose. I was able to easily tighten almost all of the pivots, so I'm gonna take it back to the shop and have them torque all the pivots to spec. What tightening I did got rid of the slop, but, not having a torque wrench, I don't want to really crank on those bearings.

    I'd love some tips on how to inexpensively reduce the weight, too! Mine left the shop at 40.5 lbs. First thing will be to cut the seatpost down a little bit.

  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by amish_matt
    I'm about your weight, and Ben recommended a 300# or 350# spring for me, with the caveat that I'd need to run more compression damping with the 300#.

    The Voltage has a low leverage ratio, which lets you get away with lower spring rates.
    Thanks! Problem is, the Fox Van R shock has no compression damping adjustment. So I wonder if I get a 300# spring, will I have enough range with the preload collar to get my sag set right? I'm a noob when it comes to actually setting up a DH/FR bike w/ a coil shock. I think I'll have to order the 300#er and just experiment.

  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by nprider
    Thanks! I checked the main pivot, and it was very loose. I was able to easily tighten almost all of the pivots, so I'm gonna take it back to the shop and have them torque all the pivots to spec. What tightening I did got rid of the slop, but, not having a torque wrench, I don't want to really crank on those bearings.

    I'd love some tips on how to inexpensively reduce the weight, too! Mine left the shop at 40.5 lbs. First thing will be to cut the seatpost down a little bit.
    Check the tubes. Sometimes they put DH tubes in there from the factory. I ride XC tubes for DH all the time.

    The other things you could think about replacing to save weight are the cranks, seat, post and cassette. I ask at road bike shops if they have any used Dura Ace 9sp cassettes laying around from people who changed to 10sp. It is the cheapest way I have found to get a light rear cassette.

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by nprider
    Thanks! Problem is, the Fox Van R shock has no compression damping adjustment. So I wonder if I get a 300# spring, will I have enough range with the preload collar to get my sag set right? I'm a noob when it comes to actually setting up a DH/FR bike w/ a coil shock. I think I'll have to order the 300#er and just experiment.
    You could get it custom tuned later if you think you need more compression.

  7. #207
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    got the 300# spring, and it feels much better. Can't wait til the snow melts!

  8. #208
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    stock headset

    I have a 2011 FR 20 with the stock FSA Orbit E 1.5R headset. I recently purchased a 160 mm fork for those non-shuttle days. Instead of swapping out the crown race every time, I want to purchase another race to simplify the swap. Every time I do a search I cannot find this headset, does the "E" stand for "xtreme" on FSA's website?

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdcatnau
    I have a 2011 FR 20 with the stock FSA Orbit E 1.5R headset. I recently purchased a 160 mm fork for those non-shuttle days. Instead of swapping out the crown race every time, I want to purchase another race to simplify the swap. Every time I do a search I cannot find this headset, does the "E" stand for "xtreme" on FSA's website?
    It is a standard bearing. Try another race from a similar headset. Your LBS might have something laying around. That is what I do for easy fork swaps.

  10. #210
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    Thanks buckoW

    Quote Originally Posted by buckoW
    It is a standard bearing. Try another race from a similar headset. Your LBS might have something laying around. That is what I do for easy fork swaps.
    I decided to go with a cane creek angleset. Now me and the LBS are trying to figure out which bottom cup I need.

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdcatnau
    I decided to go with a cane creek angleset. Now me and the LBS are trying to figure out which bottom cup I need.
    Same as the top one. It is a standard 1.5 headtube.

  12. #212
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    So it's been a while since I posted. Snowmobiling season and all. Before the end of bike season I put on a 32t font ring and a 10 speed cassette in the rear. Still using the High Roller tires and the fox 160 van up front. Weighs in at 35lbs. I hit Moab and pedeled a fair amount. It works nicely! This is a true all around bike. I like the way it pedels better than my 06 enduro. I just need a taller seat post for those big climbs. Just switch up to the Boxxer when hittin DH, jumps and drops @ winter park and your good to go. Awesome bike. At the end of the weekend everyone was wanting it.
    The more people I meet, the more I like my dog!!!

  13. #213
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    Im looking forward to ordering a new FR20, just need to sell my Sx Trail. I really want the adjustability of the Voltage. Who knows how much Ill actually change things up but it will still be nice to change setups if I need to or want to.
    2013 Yeti Sb66

  14. #214
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    Voltage DH

    Is there a chance the Voltage DH will be put on production?

  15. #215
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    2010 sizing

    Hi guys, lots of great info on this thread!

    I'm keen to buy one right now!
    The 2010 models are on sale pretty cheap here in Australia at the moment. (FR10 is $2900 at a couple of shops).
    The only problem is, I can't find any shops that have any of the 2010 models in size 'long'.

    I'd rather not settle for a 2011 FR30, when for the same price I could have a 2010 FR10.

    I'm 178cm tall (5'11"), weigh 75kg (165lb).
    I guess I'm asking for comments from guys my size that are riding on a 'short' size Voltage. Does it feel too cramped?
    My riding style will predominantly be DH oriented, as opposed to Freeride/Jumping.
    my last DH bike was a 2008 Specialized Demo8, in Medium. It felt pretty short in the cockpit, compared to my med Glory which I owned before that.

    All this keeping in mind that I can extend the chainstay lengths by 10mm if I was to get the short frame. (at what cost? has anyone found an online supplier of dropouts?).

    Cheers,
    Hugh.

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by dufferin
    Is there a chance the Voltage DH will be put on production?
    No, it is a team only bike with no plans for production. The 2011 geo is very close with a -1 headset but with 1" less travel.

  17. #217
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    running a 160

    hey so i'm thinking of getting a 2011 FR30 and slapping on a 160 Van for pedaling it on the stuff here in Santa Cruz and keep the 180 Domain for the bike park trips. But i'd be running it at 160 most the time and i've heard running the shock at the lower setting doesn't perform as well(ramps up too quick, not as supple). So what's the best shock to run with a 160 fork: 150 short, 170 long, or 160 short on a longer shock. Prob would upgrade the shock down the road anyway, so what shock length feels best? I'm 6' 160lb-looking at a long as i'm not really a jumper but like fast n flowy stuff with a little bit of burly.

    Buckow your thoughts? Anyone else running a 160 and pedaling?

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by mdthreecs
    hey so i'm thinking of getting a 2011 FR30 and slapping on a 160 Van for pedaling it on the stuff here in Santa Cruz and keep the 180 Domain for the bike park trips. But i'd be running it at 160 most the time and i've heard running the shock at the lower setting doesn't perform as well(ramps up too quick, not as supple). So what's the best shock to run with a 160 fork: 150 short, 170 long, or 160 short on a longer shock. Prob would upgrade the shock down the road anyway, so what shock length feels best? I'm 6' 160lb-looking at a long as i'm not really a jumper but like fast n flowy stuff with a little bit of burly.

    Buckow your thoughts? Anyone else running a 160 and pedaling?
    Sounds like people are reducing the travel and running the same spring. If you want to run the 160mm mode then just make sure you are not over sprung. It is a very low leverage ratio so it can easily be over sprung.

    I like the bike a lot at 160mm but I have to run a 300lb spring maximum with the 240mm i2i shock. The shorter you go with the i2i the less progressive it becomes. It all depends on what type of suspension you like and how hard you hit corners, etc.. Either one would work well depending on your riding style.

    Are you aggressive and like to smash corners or are you smooth and carve your way through turns?

  19. #219
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    Yea i would say i try to be more smooth than aggressive through corners and i'm lightweight so i didn't want it feeling too stiff. I'm riding an AM 5.5" full squish now and this would be my first FR/DH bike as i'm getting into more of that type of riding, but am i being too ambitious in thinking i'm gonna pedal it at 160? Theres a lot of weight to be saved on the FR30 but not sure how it goes uphill-I know it wasn't intended to I'm just asking. Would the geometry be any steeper at 160? Long for sure at 6 ft.?

    Thanks for all the help

  20. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by mdthreecs
    Yea i would say i try to be more smooth than aggressive through corners and i'm lightweight so i didn't want it feeling too stiff. I'm riding an AM 5.5" full squish now and this would be my first FR/DH bike as i'm getting into more of that type of riding, but am i being too ambitious in thinking i'm gonna pedal it at 160? Theres a lot of weight to be saved on the FR30 but not sure how it goes uphill-I know it wasn't intended to I'm just asking. Would the geometry be any steeper at 160? Long for sure at 6 ft.?

    Thanks for all the help
    Yes get a long and don't worry about too firm. That is just question of running the right spring weight for you and your riding style.

    The bike pedals well and lots of people are surprised. It is not as efficient as an AM bike on the ups but much better on the downs. It will get steeper at 160 to 66 but you can get a Cane Creek Angle Set if you want it any steeper.

  21. #221
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    Just to make sure i get it. You like it with a 240mm e2e shocklengh with the 240mm shockmount in the short travel setting to achieve 160mm of rear travel with a 160mm fork. Then match my weight to the coil spring. Found this info from Scott off PB
    We recommend following coil springs:
    A - Short Travel:
    50-60 kgs 150x3.25
    60-70 kgs 200x3.25
    70-80 kgs 250x3.25
    80-90 kgs 300x3.25
    B - Long Travel:
    50-60 kgs 200x3.25
    60-70 kgs 250x3.25
    70-80 kgs 300x3.25
    80-90 kgs 350x3.25

    I'm 70kg plus gear so I should run a 250lb spring since i'd be in the short travel setting most all the time? Or would the 300lb spring be a better compromise if I want to run the longer setting sometimes with a 180mm fork? Guess it comes down to personal preference at that point. Looks like you have to compromise for whatever travel setting your not sprung for.
    Anyway thanks for the advice and the quick responses Ben

  22. #222
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    I am going to do the same thing. When I switched the rear shock to 160 I thought it was much more firm with the stock 350 spring. I should have my 160 fork set up this weekend so I'll let you know how it feels. I'm roughly 90 kgs not suited up. I switched the front chain ring to a 34t to help aid with pedaling up hill, but I have mostly used it for dh and haven't pedaled it much.

  23. #223
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    Last week I used the voltage fr 20 on the typical super d course at bootleg and was pleasantly surprised with how well the bike pedaled. That being said, I changed the boxxer out for a marz 55 and change the rear to the 160 setting, the bike is still around 36 lbs. Up hill was still a challenge, mainly due to the gearing, up everything from flat to a small climb I thought the bike did well for a fr bike.

    Also, I have gone down a few time and managed to scratch the beautiful green paint. I contacted Scott and they are sending out some paint to touch it up! Can't beat that!

  24. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by mdthreecs
    Just to make sure i get it. You like it with a 240mm e2e shocklengh with the 240mm shockmount in the short travel setting to achieve 160mm of rear travel with a 160mm fork. Then match my weight to the coil spring. Found this info from Scott off PB
    We recommend following coil springs:
    A - Short Travel:
    50-60 kgs 150x3.25
    60-70 kgs 200x3.25
    70-80 kgs 250x3.25
    80-90 kgs 300x3.25
    B - Long Travel:
    50-60 kgs 200x3.25
    60-70 kgs 250x3.25
    70-80 kgs 300x3.25
    80-90 kgs 350x3.25

    I'm 70kg plus gear so I should run a 250lb spring since i'd be in the short travel setting most all the time? Or would the 300lb spring be a better compromise if I want to run the longer setting sometimes with a 180mm fork? Guess it comes down to personal preference at that point. Looks like you have to compromise for whatever travel setting your not sprung for.
    Anyway thanks for the advice and the quick responses Ben


    No problem.

    I run a 300 lb spring in the long travel setting on a firm compression tuned RC4 and I am around 80 kilos so I would definitely recommend a 250 for you. The 225 lb springs for a 10.5" shock also fit on the 240mm i2i shocks by the way.

    It is better to have 2 springs if you want to have good performance in both travels. I run the good spring for me in the long travel hole and then the bike is firmer for jumps if I put it in the short travel hole.

  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdcatnau
    Last week I used the voltage fr 20 on the typical super d course at bootleg and was pleasantly surprised with how well the bike pedaled. That being said, I changed the boxxer out for a marz 55 and change the rear to the 160 setting, the bike is still around 36 lbs. Up hill was still a challenge, mainly due to the gearing, up everything from flat to a small climb I thought the bike did well for a fr bike.

    Also, I have gone down a few time and managed to scratch the beautiful green paint. I contacted Scott and they are sending out some paint to touch it up! Can't beat that!
    Sounds like the XX 12-36 tooth cassette would be good for you. I run that so I can climb a bit and keep my chain guide.

    The low leverage ratio and slightly higher than chain line pivot make the bike pedal really well. I am stoked you are liking it. Now let's get you the right gearing!

  26. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by buckoW
    Sounds like the XX 12-36 tooth cassette would be good for you. I run that so I can climb a bit and keep my chain guide.

    The low leverage ratio and slightly higher than chain line pivot make the bike pedal really well. I am stoked you are liking it. Now let's get you the right gearing!
    Thanks for the advice. I have a 34t chain ring and just installed a 11-34 cassette to try out tomorrow. I'm sure this will make a huge difference.

  27. #227
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    New pic, minor updates:


  28. #228
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    I cant tell from the pic, are you running a totem coil or air?

  29. #229
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    Coil.

  30. #230
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    flex

    I'm wondering if anyone else who has a Voltage FR has noticed a lot of flex from the rear end. I have all my pivots torqued to spec, and the wheel is true and tight, but when I'm on off-camber, rooty/rocky sections, it feels like the rear wheel is steering itself in a different direction. It feels great in the corners, especially the berms, and I've been having fun getting loose and drifty with the bike, but the rear-end flex is disconcerting sometimes. Is it just part of the design (no cross-brace between the seatstays)? Am I overthinking it? For the record I've only had it out on xc/trailbike terrain, as it's unfortunately still ski season at the resorts (boo).

  31. #231
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    EVERY bike/sus design flexes at the rear.....
    EVERY one. Up to you how much you're willing to tolerate.
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  32. #232
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eastcoaster
    EVERY bike/sus design flexes at the rear.....
    EVERY one. Up to you how much you're willing to tolerate.

    sounds like he found how much he was willing to tolerate...

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by buckoW
    No problem.

    I run a 300 lb spring in the long travel setting on a firm compression tuned RC4 and I am around 80 kilos so I would definitely recommend a 250 for you. The 225 lb springs for a 10.5" shock also fit on the 240mm i2i shocks by the way.

    It is better to have 2 springs if you want to have good performance in both travels. I run the good spring for me in the long travel hole and then the bike is firmer for jumps if I put it in the short travel hole.
    Buckow, I see a lot of people running RP23s or DHX air. What's the difference in performance between the two, what types of riding are they better for? For a 215 i2i on a 2011. Thanks again for the input.

  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdcatnau
    Thanks for the advice. I have a 34t chain ring and just installed a 11-34 cassette to try out tomorrow. I'm sure this will make a huge difference.
    How's the gearing working for you? I'm pedaling my FR30 all over and could use some extra teeth as well. Do you or anyone know if you can use a 2x9 drivetrain with an e-type FD? Thinking a SLX 22/36 would be nice. Seems like it should work on paper but dunno for sure. If not looks likes 1x10 with a 11-36 is the way to go.

  35. #235
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    Quote Originally Posted by mdthreecs
    How's the gearing working for you? I'm pedaling my FR30 all over and could use some extra teeth as well. Do you or anyone know if you can use a 2x9 drivetrain with an e-type FD? Thinking a SLX 22/36 would be nice. Seems like it should work on paper but dunno for sure. If not looks likes 1x10 with a 11-36 is the way to go.
    It's better than what it was. The 1x10 might be a little better but to me it's one more gear to shift. My local trails are steep down followed by steep up. I just need to get used to not being on my other bike with a front der.

  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdcatnau
    It's better than what it was. The 1x10 might be a little better but to me it's one more gear to shift. My local trails are steep down followed by steep up. I just need to get used to not being on my other bike with a front der.

    I did a 1x10. AWESOME! I now use this as my all mtn/ freeride/ xc bike. I do a 10 min. fork swap and bingo, legit dh. Best move I ever made. I'm at around 35lbs right now with the van fork and dh tires. Lighter than my enduro! FR10 btw.
    The more people I meet, the more I like my dog!!!

  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by Allmtnman
    I did a 1x10. AWESOME! I now use this as my all mtn/ freeride/ xc bike. I do a 10 min. fork swap and bingo, legit dh. Best move I ever made. I'm at around 35lbs right now with the van fork and dh tires. Lighter than my enduro! FR10 btw.
    I have the fr20 and I believe mine is around 36 lbs. You can definitely pedal this bike but I'm try to keep up with my buddies with an ibis mojo hd and a pivot firebird. However like you said a 10 min fork swap and they can't keep up when we ride dh.

  38. #238
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    voltage DH

    What is the difference between the 2011 Voltage FR and the Voltage DH. I'm guessing travel is not adjustable, but is the geo the same, more travel? After watching the Floriane on those jumps today I just had to ask.

  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdcatnau
    What is the difference between the 2011 Voltage FR and the Voltage DH. I'm guessing travel is not adjustable, but is the geo the same, more travel? After watching the Floriane on those jumps today I just had to ask.
    The Voltage DH has 8 inches of rear travel a 1 slacker headangle (-2 for Floriane's bike) and a one piece link.

    She jumped those pretty well. I was happy for her. Emilie Siegenthaler did well on her's too!

  40. #240
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    Hello everyone, I'm a 30 year old from upstate NY that has been out of the mountain biking scene for some years, and I came across this thread while looking for a new toy.

    I've only ever ridden hard tails, but I've always wanted to add a FR to complement my Stumpy M2 Comp.

    I primarily ride in the local state park and Skidmore college's trails here in Saratoga Springs, NY. My friends and I have done the local mountain thing before, and I can't wait to get back to it, just not on my hard tail...

    I'm very interested in the Voltage FR 30. Is there anyone who wouldn't recommend this bike? Any recommendations for fitting this to someone who is 6'1" 250lbs? I'm new to full suspension, and I've been out of the scene for a while, but I'm a quick learn.

    thanks for your time, nice to meet you all.

    -J

  41. #241
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    Voltage FR rear triangle stiffness

    Hi All,

    This is a long and detailled thread regarding the Voltage FR and I've only seen a couple of comments regarding the stiffness of the rear triangle, but I though I would explicity ask:

    How stiff is the rear end of this bike (lateral/torsion)? (x-post with DH/FR forum)

    Reason I ask is that I think I'm going to get rid of my current 160mm frame, specifically because it's quite flexy in a sometimes-deeply-unnerving-middle-of-heavy-corner-needing-correcting-kinda-way, and it would be a shame to leap from frying pan into the fire....

    Thanks for any comments/insights!

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    Spring size?

    Chaps,
    Im a pretty big guy, 6ft3 , 111Kg without kit, I have an FR20 on order what spring would you reccomend for long travel?

    I was going to get one of these:
    Nukeproof 3" x 500 Lbs x 170mm Free Length

    Also have a pair of Fox 36 Van R 180s on the way, should i be thinking about upgrading the stock spring for somthing harder... not sure what it comes with, it should arive today

  43. #243
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vindicator65 View Post
    Chaps,
    Im a pretty big guy, 6ft3 , 111Kg without kit, I have an FR20 on order what spring would you reccomend for long travel?

    I was going to get one of these:
    Nukeproof 3" x 500 Lbs x 170mm Free Length

    Also have a pair of Fox 36 Van R 180s on the way, should i be thinking about upgrading the stock spring for somthing harder... not sure what it comes with, it should arive today
    Congrats on the new bike. Just received my new FR20 also. Man this bike is awesome!

    I know for 90kg Scott recommends a 350x3.25. With your weight you might be able to go with a 400 or 450 lb. spring. (but then again theyre also recommending 40% sag...?) Stock the bike comes with a 350x3.25. With gear Im right at about 75kg. The stock sprig felt a little stiff for me, so I picked up the 300 lb. On my 6point I was running a 400 lb. spring.

    Only had the bike 2 days, so I still need to take it on a proper ride to feel her out.

  44. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terminator Z View Post
    Congrats on the new bike. Just received my new FR20 also. Man this bike is awesome!

    I know for 90kg Scott recommends a 350x3.25. With your weight you might be able to go with a 400 or 450 lb. spring. (but then again theyre also recommending 40% sag...?) Stock the bike comes with a 350x3.25. With gear Im right at about 75kg. The stock sprig felt a little stiff for me, so I picked up the 300 lb. On my 6point I was running a 400 lb. spring.

    Only had the bike 2 days, so I still need to take it on a proper ride to feel her out.

    40% sag seems like a bit much for me, i checked out the spring rate calc on the mojo store, and it reckons i need 480.... dont know what sag this is at though, i think i am edging towards a 500

  45. #245
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    Any chance a short frame would fit a 5'3" lanky female?

  46. #246
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    BB Height of Voltage FR 10 2011

    Hi all,

    one question: do you think the bottom bracket is "overexposed" to rocks and roots?
    I think that 348mm of height should not be enough...

    Thanks

  47. #247
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    I ride bootleg canyon on occasion which is known for it's rocky terrain. I do clip a pedal from time to time but it is nothing out of the ordinary from what every one else experiences out there. I would worry too much.

  48. #248
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    what rear spring should i get? I have the stock '11 FR10 and weigh about 240lbs with gear. Not sure which rate spring i should get. Thanks.

  49. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shepherd Wong View Post
    Any chance a short frame would fit a 5'3" lanky female?
    I'm 5'8 on a L, and my wife is 5'1 on a S, I'd say you could get away with either. I don't think you'd feel that the L would be "needed" unless all you ride is steeper true DH type riding.

    Messican, you can download (or view online) the user guide & it has the specs for you.

    http://www.scott-sports.com/download...reeride_en.pdf

    Page 6 has spring recommendations, you can extrapolate from their suggestions. I'd guess a 450 would be ideal for you if you're running max travel.
    Quote Originally Posted by thump View Post
    How about we take the "let it burn approach" with the rotting cesspool of the Denver metro?

  50. #250
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    Can't seem to find much on tuning the RC4. I am about 170-175 with gear. I am running a 300lb spring. how exactly would one tune the high speed compression?
    The more people I meet, the more I like my dog!!!

  51. #251
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    Quote Originally Posted by Allmtnman View Post
    Can't seem to find much on tuning the RC4. I am about 170-175 with gear. I am running a 300lb spring. how exactly would one tune the high speed compression?
    I don't know much about that shock, but I was wondering how you're liking that spring rate? Im about the same weight and currently running the same spring but keep going between the 350 and 300lb spring. Still only getting about 30% with the 300lb spring but sometimes I feel like it bottoms too frequently.

  52. #252
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    I am back to the 350lb spring. I was feeling the same bottoming issue with the 300lb. I like a stiffer spring for jumping anyway.
    The more people I meet, the more I like my dog!!!

  53. #253
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    Extras?

    Can anyone confirm whether the 2011 models come with the extra dropouts?

    I vaguely recall reading somewhere that the FR10 comes with the +/- 10mm dropouts as extras (bike fitted with 0mm dropouts).
    whereas the FR20 and FR30 come only with the 0mm dropouts.

    Same with the shock mounts, can anyone confirm whether the FR10 comes with the other mounts required to fit different shocks (or tweak geometry)?
    Do the FR20 and FR30 come with additional shock mounts?

    This will affect my decision whether to buy a FR30 and upgrade it, or just lash out and get the FR10!

    Cheers,
    Hugh.

  54. #254
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    Hey,
    My 2011 FR10 came with the 0mm dropout and 241mm shockmount fitted, and the -1cm dropout and the 215mm shockmount in the box.

  55. #255
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    No additional shock mounts or dropouts came with my 2011 FR20.

  56. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terminator Z View Post
    No additional shock mounts or dropouts came with my 2011 FR20.
    The additional shock mounts and drop out only come with the FR10.

  57. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by Allmtnman View Post
    I am back to the 350lb spring. I was feeling the same bottoming issue with the 300lb. I like a stiffer spring for jumping anyway.
    Have you thought about increasing the bottom out chamber pressure, and adding low speed compression damping? In theory that would give you the high speed suppleness you want for things like the chatter on boulevard, while avoiding G out on a transition & bottom out on landing. Low speed is the smaller knob inside the high speed. I like mine with a lot of low speed damping, & minimal high speed damping.

    I'm here for you bro... any time you need some useless ideas... just ask.


    You know, better yet, just trade me shocks on sat & you won't have to worry about all those difficult tuning issues. MUCH BETTER.
    Quote Originally Posted by thump View Post
    How about we take the "let it burn approach" with the rotting cesspool of the Denver metro?

  58. #258
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    Hi everyone, this is my first post here. My 12 year old just finished two days on a Scott voltage FR30 at the Teton mountain bike park and absolutely loved it. He is a novice rider 5 feet 6 inches and 130 lbs.Would the short Fr30 be a good choice for him. He wants to ride the parks and would do some local street stuff in our neighborhood.
    Finally where is the best place to look for a very good used model or new one.
    I am a car guy so I don't know much about bikes accept that the rental was great for him.
    Thanks for any advice and I enjoyed the posts and pictures.You guys are serious!

  59. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lipscomb View Post
    Hi everyone, this is my first post here. My 12 year old just finished two days on a Scott voltage FR30 at the Teton mountain bike park and absolutely loved it. He is a novice rider 5 feet 6 inches and 130 lbs.Would the short Fr30 be a good choice for him. He wants to ride the parks and would do some local street stuff in our neighborhood.
    Finally where is the best place to look for a very good used model or new one.
    I am a car guy so I don't know much about bikes accept that the rental was great for him.
    Thanks for any advice and I enjoyed the posts and pictures.You guys are serious!
    Glad your son enjoyed his time on the Voltage FR. It is such an amazing bike. One of the things that makes it so great is its versatility.

    Size wise, I have seen many taller (56-6) riders getting by on a size short. Most of them might be primarily riding the bike in a short travel set up, mostly used for dirt jumping. It might depend on what kind of riding hell be doing most. Some prefer a longer bike for more DH type riding. At 56 a small would be perfect. Being that your kid is 12, already 56 and likely to keep growing, (and depending on when you want to buy his next bike) you might want to consider a long, but Its really going to come down to what he is comfortable on. What size was he riding at Teton and how was it working for him? Im 59 riding a long and it feels perfect. I ride my VoltageFR20 as my dedicated DH bike with long dropouts and the duel crown Domain fork.

    To buy one of these bad boys new, check out the Scott website and try to locate the closest distributor to you. Scott doesnt allow mail order of their bikes, so youll have to pick one up through a local distributor. To find a used one; check out the classifieds here, Pinkbike.com, ridemonkey.com, or even ebay.

    Also, check out the VoltageFR thread at pinkbike.com for additional info. Good luck!

    http://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listco...1521&pagenum=1

  60. #260
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lipscomb View Post
    Hi everyone, this is my first post here. My 12 year old just finished two days on a Scott voltage FR30 at the Teton mountain bike park and absolutely loved it. He is a novice rider 5 feet 6 inches and 130 lbs.Would the short Fr30 be a good choice for him. He wants to ride the parks and would do some local street stuff in our neighborhood.
    Finally where is the best place to look for a very good used model or new one.
    I am a car guy so I don't know much about bikes accept that the rental was great for him.
    Thanks for any advice and I enjoyed the posts and pictures.You guys are serious!
    Not sure if it's worth your time, but Winterpark, Co. will have thier demo's for sale at the end of the season. I picked up 2 last season and you get a season pass when you buy one. Otherwise, check Craigslist, I have seen one or two on there from time to time. Awesome bike for sure. It's as if they do the work for you! Good Luck!!!
    The more people I meet, the more I like my dog!!!

  61. #261
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    Thanks Terminator and Allmtnman for your help. I am definitely going to get the bike and they also sell the rental units at the end of the season in Jackson as well.

  62. #262
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    Voltage Geometries Spreadsheet

    Hi all,

    Since many of you are into 'tweaking' your Voltage FR by using different shock/mount options, I decided to make a spreadsheet that calculates the geometry for different combinations of shock/mount/fork/dropout/angleset.

    Does anyone know how to upload a XLSM (macro enabled) spreadsheet file into this forum?
    I tried to upload it but it said 'invalid file'.

    Cheers,
    Hugh.

  63. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by hmcleay View Post
    Hi all,

    Since many of you are into 'tweaking' your Voltage FR by using different shock/mount options, I decided to make a spreadsheet that calculates the geometry for different combinations of shock/mount/fork/dropout/angleset.

    Does anyone know how to upload a XLSM (macro enabled) spreadsheet file into this forum?
    I tried to upload it but it said 'invalid file'.

    Cheers,
    Hugh.
    Best bet is to either set it up on a Google Docs shared document, or just post a screen shot of the final version...I'll be interested in seeing it, as I had put one together as well!

  64. #264
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharacterZero View Post
    Best bet is to either set it up on a Google Docs shared document, or just post a screen shot of the final version...I'll be interested in seeing it, as I had put one together as well!
    Thanks CharacterZero,
    I have uploaded the file to google documents.
    Unfortunately, I can't post the link here, because my post count isn't high enough (need minimum 10 posts)!
    Nor can I PM the link to you, as I need to have 15 posts to do that!

    I guess it'll just have to wait...
    ...or PM me your email address.

    Cheers,
    Hugh

  65. #265
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    So I can pretty much dial this FR10 in on freeride, jump type dh stuff. Now I am looking to figure out how to dial the rear shock for Gnarly DH stuff. Any ideas? I am 170lbs, running the dhx rc4. I tried backing off the spring a fair amount and it bottoms pretty easily. But ran in a couple turns it feels pretty damn rigid. How far in with the bottom out adjustment and how much psi in the boost valve for such riding? I know I can only do so much with a 7" bike, but it seems it should feel a little better than it does.
    The more people I meet, the more I like my dog!!!

  66. #266
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    I have been looking at a 2011 Voltage FR20. I have been reading mixed reviews about the FRs, most are positive but a few owners say there is a lot of flex in there back. Have any of you experienced this or know why that may be?

  67. #267
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    mine has some flex in the rear. I am a +200lb rider and it does not bother me and i ride all DH.

  68. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by deezam View Post
    I have been looking at a 2011 Voltage FR20. I have been reading mixed reviews about the FRs, most are positive but a few owners say there is a lot of flex in there back. Have any of you experienced this or know why that may be?
    Hi deezam,

    I've got a 2011 FR10.
    The back wheel is certainly flexier than on other DH bikes I have owned.
    I can't say that I notice it riding though.

    Before my first ride on mine, I did a 'flex test' on the back wheel (by gripping the top of the wheel with my hand, and trying to move it laterally).
    Suddenly, there was a clunk, and the wheel developed some play!
    I investigated the source, and the linkage pivot closest to the rear axle (on the drive side) had developed some play.
    I undid the pivot hardware, and was surprised to see that the bearing was loose, where it is supposed to be a 'press fit' into the frame (I could push it in/out by hand)!
    To me, this is an unacceptable quality control issue.
    Surely the person assembling the bike in the factory should have noticed this.
    I reinstalled the bearing with some loctite bearing compound, and 24hrs later, problem fixed.

    Aside from the bearing issue, it's just a slightly flexy design, which I don't notice while riding (what is it supposed to feel like anyway?)
    I take the good with the bad. The rest of the bike is awesome, and certainly don't regret buying it.

    HTH,
    Hugh.

  69. #269
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    Wanna buy a 2010 FR10 stripped of it's paint with a Boxxer fork? I got one for sale. MINT condition except a ding on one of the wheels. Purely cosmetic.
    The more people I meet, the more I like my dog!!!

  70. #270
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    i work for a bike shop and have been thinking of getting one of these as my DH bike. Well, it will mostly be a resort bike, so i figure its perfect for it.

    Anyways, I am 5-9, and my AM bike has a 22.6 TT with a 50mm stem. Feels dead on. I notice the size of the voltages is 21.9 and 22.9. I havent a clue which one to get. I feel for straight DH runs the long would be ideal with a 35mm stem, but the short would be most playful, but then I might have to go to a 60mm stem.
    What do you all recommend? Oh, I am looking at the FR20. (2012)

  71. #271
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    looking to change my rear shock and forks to air to shed a bit of weight
    My options are Lyrik Solo Airs 170mm or Fox Float 160 for the front and either DHX5.0 air or Monarch Plus for the rear (using 222mm mounts).

    Is anyone using any of these setups?

  72. #272
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    Quote Originally Posted by wolfman00 View Post
    i work for a bike shop and have been thinking of getting one of these as my DH bike. Well, it will mostly be a resort bike, so i figure its perfect for it.

    Anyways, I am 5-9, and my AM bike has a 22.6 TT with a 50mm stem. Feels dead on. I notice the size of the voltages is 21.9 and 22.9. I havent a clue which one to get. I feel for straight DH runs the long would be ideal with a 35mm stem, but the short would be most playful, but then I might have to go to a 60mm stem.
    What do you all recommend? Oh, I am looking at the FR20. (2012)
    I was in the same boat when I bought mine. Being my primary DH and resort bike, I went with the long; I even added on the longer dropouts. I'm also about 5'9" and the bike feels perfect. The short would have also had a shorter TT then my AM bike, so leaning more towards DH, I didn't want a shorter length bike then what I already had (especially when considering the slightly compact frame design of the FR.) Even setup with the DC fork and longer dropouts, the bike is super playful and loves being in the air.

  73. #273
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    couple upgrades to my '10 20.
    66 RCV, V1 flat bars, 1.5 stem, ODI Rogues, new seat and 400mm post. bike is super fun. yeah, i guess you can move the rear wheel a bit perpendicular to the travel with your hand but i've never actually noticed anything while riding

  74. #274
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    those bars look great! I got same bars on my FR10 (38mm rise) and love em.

  75. #275
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    hi all, i just bought a 2012 FR20 and i'm planning to change the fork. Was recommended boxxer, any other forks to recommend?

  76. #276
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    Congrats!!! Any of the Boxxers will be better, lot of guys are also throwing on Fox 40s. The Domain DC isnt all that bad, just heavy and lacking in compression adjustment so pretty much anything with some compression adjustment will be an upgrade. Post up some pics!

  77. #277
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    Thanks for the recommendation. I'll post some photos when I get my hands on either a fox40 or boxxers.

  78. #278
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    so, finally... for this time


    Partlist:
    Frame - Scott Voltage FR "L" 3240g
    Shock - Marzocchi Roco WC Air - Custom Shimmed by TSS 538g
    Fork - Marzocchi 66 RC3 Evo with ATA Cartridge - Custom Shimmed by TSS 2730g
    Headset - FSA Orbit Z 1.5" to 1 1/8" 102g
    Stem - Thomson X4 Titanium Hardware 164g
    Bar - Easton Havoc Carbon 238g
    Seatpost - Easton EC90 Zero Titanium Hardware & Custom Yokes 118g
    Seat - Selle San Marco Aspide Superleggera Carbon 106g
    Seatclamp - Roxcyle SL 12g
    Hubs - DT 440 519g
    Spokes - 72x DT Revo 232g
    Nippel - DT Alu 22g
    Rims - DT EX5.1 1020g
    Gearing - Shimano XTR with Saint SS cage, Carbon-Ceramic Pulleys & Alu Hardware 161g
    Shiftcable/Hose: Alligator I-Link/XTR 62g
    Chain - Shimano XTR 262g
    Crank - Shimano XTR 523g
    BB - Shimano XTR 89g
    Chainwheel - Truvativ SS 33T 38g
    Cassette - Dura-Ace Titan 11-23 152g
    Pedals - Spank Spike with Alu Pins 388g
    Chainguard - e13 LG1+ Without Taco & complete drillet out 96g
    Brakes - Shimano XTR Lever With XT Caliper and Saint/Magura Hoses 552g
    Rotors - Shimano XT 200/180mm 350g
    Trigger - Shimano XTR Alu Hardware 106g
    Grips - BBB Foamrubber 32g
    Tires - Continental Baron 2.5" Black Chili 2320g
    Tubes - Michelin Latex C4 260g
    Rimstrip - Schwalbe Textil 8g
    Smallparts - Screws(Chainwheel/Guard), Spacer, Headcap, Grease etc. 80g

    Complete 14520g


    and with the old seat, but better picture for look the cleanliness
    Last edited by annihilator; 05-14-2012 at 12:06 PM.

  79. #279
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    Wow, even down to the gram. Wish I could get mine down to a weight close to that. That thing looks pimp! Dig the custom frame color.

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

  80. #280
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    Hey Ben,

    I have the 2011 Voltage FR short and am about 5'11" and some change. I currently run the 222 i-to-i shock as a vivid 5.1 C tune...and another guy wants to trade me for the long frameset, but a 2010. I noticed that there are some new differences in the 2011 framesets to compensate for longer front forks. What would I have to do to keep the geo the same? And is there a huge difference between the two? I wanna run a short SS setup but mainly pick big mt freeride lines and dh riding.

  81. #281
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    Hi,

    I know at least someone here must use the Voltage as a do-it-all bike from AM to DH. I would love to hear some details and experience on how a reasonably light build would pedal. Can you get enough seat extension (with the 420mm RS reverb, anyone)?

    My am bike is under 33lbs with a 7lb frame, and I believe the voltage is only 7.5 lbs. I'm on a slow-burn search for an eventual new frame.

    I havnt done all the research, but if there is an option for 150/170mm rear travel I'd go for that with a HV air shock, possibly without piggyback such as RS monarch rt3.

    I have the 180 float, and I would definitely make use of the adjustability bumping it up to full 180 for big shuttle weekends, but running it normally at 170 or 160 for general use.

    Thanks!

  82. #282
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    hi, the frame in large(2011) weights incl. 12mm dropouts(long), axle, shuttles(9.5" shock) and all mounting hardware for shock 7.12lbs

  83. #283
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    Quote Originally Posted by ride the biscuit View Post
    Hi,

    I know at least someone here must use the Voltage as a do-it-all bike from AM to DH. I would love to hear some details and experience on how a reasonably light build would pedal. Can you get enough seat extension (with the 420mm RS reverb, anyone)?

    My am bike is under 33lbs with a 7lb frame, and I believe the voltage is only 7.5 lbs. I'm on a slow-burn search for an eventual new frame.

    I havnt done all the research, but if there is an option for 150/170mm rear travel I'd go for that with a HV air shock, possibly without piggyback such as RS monarch rt3.

    I have the 180 float, and I would definitely make use of the adjustability bumping it up to full 180 for big shuttle weekends, but running it normally at 170 or 160 for general use.

    Thanks!
    I tried it with a 1x10 drivetrain. got the bike down to just under 36 lbs. That was with stock wheels and dh tires still on it. I think it would be feasable to get it to 34lbs if you wanna spend a little money and do an air fork, air shock, lighter wheels would be key and it would be relatively pedalable. Mine was not user friendly as an all mtn bike but I did not want to spend the coin. I would rather shell out for 2 bikes. The geometry is still gonna kill you on the voltage. You will need a super long seatpost which did help on mine, but still just an uphill battle. IMO just get a all mtn bike and keep the voltage for what it's made for. You will spend the same amount in upgrades as you will a good used am bike. Just my .02.
    The more people I meet, the more I like my dog!!!

  84. #284
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    Quote Originally Posted by ride the biscuit View Post
    Hi,

    I know at least someone here must use the Voltage as a do-it-all bike from AM to DH. I would love to hear some details and experience on how a reasonably light build would pedal. Can you get enough seat extension (with the 420mm RS reverb, anyone)?

    My am bike is under 33lbs with a 7lb frame, and I believe the voltage is only 7.5 lbs. I'm on a slow-burn search for an eventual new frame.

    I havnt done all the research, but if there is an option for 150/170mm rear travel I'd go for that with a HV air shock, possibly without piggyback such as RS monarch rt3.

    I have the 180 float, and I would definitely make use of the adjustability bumping it up to full 180 for big shuttle weekends, but running it normally at 170 or 160 for general use.

    Thanks!
    I had to use mine as a do it all bike for a while and it did alot better than i had expected. Mine is completely stock and I am in not so great shape. The only problem I had was my seat post being too short but i had cut it. I did have a KS adj seatpost in the longes one they carry and i found it too short @ 6' tall. I think it is doable but not the most ideal situation. I bought an AM bike for everything other than DH.

  85. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by Allmtnman View Post
    I tried it with a 1x10 drivetrain. got the bike down to just under 36 lbs. That was with stock wheels and dh tires still on it. I think it would be feasable to get it to 34lbs if you wanna spend a little money and do an air fork, air shock, lighter wheels would be key and it would be relatively pedalable. Mine was not user friendly as an all mtn bike but I did not want to spend the coin. I would rather shell out for 2 bikes. The geometry is still gonna kill you on the voltage. You will need a super long seatpost which did help on mine, but still just an uphill battle. IMO just get a all mtn bike and keep the voltage for what it's made for. You will spend the same amount in upgrades as you will a good used am bike. Just my .02.
    Thank you man, that is some crucial feedback! The overal sex appeal and adjustments possibilities made it attractive, but it is just out of range of what i need. The weight wouldnt be the issue with my build since i would swap stuff from my current light build, but if it just doesnt climb then thats my answer.

    Perhaps a banshee wildcard for me then...

  86. #286
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    I just bought a used 2011 Voltage FR30 this week After a few rides of DH at Deer Valley, I couldn't be more impressed. The bike has handled everything I've thrown at it, but I am pretty new to DH. The bike is just do easy to control and has helped me become a better rider just in a few days.

  87. #287
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    Is there any change in bottom bracket height or head angle when switching between the short and long travel settings with the same shock? Forgive me if this was mentioned somewhere in this thread, I didn't see it. Also- If a DHX AIR was run on this frame is there one length that would perform best due to leverage ratio?

  88. #288
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    same angles/bb height on LT or ST mode.

    DHX air and perform... sry, but buy a roco air, vivid air, ccdb air, evolver/swinger air, this all perform.

  89. #289
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    hi guys, considering an 11 fr10.

    im 6"2 and am concerned the bike will be too small? the TT is 582mm with is shorter than my operator M which was too small.

    Any tall guys riding a voltage?

  90. #290
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    6'0" riding a L.
    60mm stem, no problems and I've a very long back.

    Its perfect size for me for FR/DH. If I were pedaling it more, i'd need a 480+mm seat post though.. I run a 420mm now and its a shade low for a nice 'XC power pedal stroke' but perfect ride to the lifts or plod up fire road

    Specs should probably be taken with a pinch of salt.. you should really throw a leg over one to see how it fits rather than rely on manufacturers interpretations of numbers.

    Consider the seat tube angle too.. when your saddle is slammed on that Frankenstein looking Operator, its going to shorten it right up.
    An uncut 420mm post gives me plenty of saddle clearance even for the steepest stuff in Whistler but keeps the effective top tube pretty normal.

    /2c

  91. #291
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    thanks for the reply. 60mm stem certainly isnt short though. True i slammed the konas seat but i also had a 60mm stem on that. love to hear some other opinions, but your dead right about throwing a leg over, shame its a few hours drive away!

  92. #292
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    Hey, I am 5'9" long frame?
    Go out and rid...SHRED

  93. #293
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    You could get by either size. Its all about personal preference and usage. I've heard of 6 foot tall guys getting by on the short frame. If going for more of a dj/fr type bike, riding tighter trails maybe go short, more all out dh, go long. I'm 5'9" and ride a long frame. I ride my voltage on everything from flowy jump trails to all out dh gnar. The long fits perfect for me.

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

  94. #294
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    Thanks brah.
    Go out and rid...SHRED

  95. #295
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    rexpect

  96. #296
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    Did anybody knows if its possible to put a Truvativ Hammerschmidt FR on the bike?

  97. #297
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    Quote Originally Posted by jayng View Post
    I agree. I don't see any draw back to this bike. But it just seems too good to be true. Am thinking of giving up my nomad 08' for this bike. But seeing that I had only owned the Nomad for a year and I'll lose a good part of money on the resale, am thinking twice. But another drawback is that I won't get to test the Voltage FR before ordering it in.
    I have a 2011 voltage fr 10 and i always hav it in the 180mm travel setting and i can climb 6 miles and not be any more tired at the top then when i pedal my stump jumper up. I would recommend putting a dual chainring in the front if you want it as an AM rig. Other than that you cn still keep the 180mm or go with a 160mm setup. Just my 2 cents.
    Go out and rid...SHRED

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    yes, I have had no issues


  99. #299
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    Looking back I realized I had never posted a pic of my Voltage! So to keep this thread alive here she is.

    I need to lose some weight on this thing. Currently set up in FR mode with a 180 Domain 318. Switching to the single crown barely helped. Thinking about running an air shock. Anyone running a Vivid or a Vector Air? How are you liking it?

    BTW, Gotfish with the Hammerschmidt. Sick setup! Hows the pedaling with that thing? Are you able to make up some decent climbs? I think my Voltage would get a lot more action if it was easier to pedal up. Im hoping lightening it up will help.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Scott Voltage FR-voltagejuly.jpg  


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    ALRIGHTY boys and girls (well there aren't too many girls but that is another discussion all on its own.) I recently was able to pickup a 2011 Scott Voltage FR30 that is stock besides Deity riser handlebars and Deity pedals. Anyways here are my questions for those who also ride a Voltage FR and are much more familiar with it than I or bike shops that are dealers of Scott (interestingly enough my local bike shops are not aware that Scott makes the Voltage FR and were no help in answering my questions except in referring me back to Scott and I have gotten from Scott are email replies but have been unable to talk to a technician over the phone.) I know that it happens and the emails have always been answered in just a few hours which is quite good turn around compared to other establishments. So I have been reading through this thread and all of its pages and I find it incredible to see so many different builds on the same bike and love that seeing all of this just gives me more ideas and have a pretty good idea of what I want this bike to accomplish for me.

    "My idea is to have a bike that is aggressive enough for Freeride, DH for fun (not the racing side.) Plus being at least somewhat pedal friendly. I hate to say it especially being a big body size of frame but to have my Voltage be a one quiver bike. I am probably over reaching and should go with a trek scratch or remedy but I ride aggressive enough that I am afraid those bikes just won't quite cut it plus I was able to pickup my bike for an incredibly good price while the other two are astronomically more expensive then what I had spent on my Voltage. So here is the first question on the chopping block that I would like advice or an answer to as talking with bike reps from differing stores and contacting Scott through email I have not been able to get an answer that I fully understand and can move forwards with.

    I wanting to put a Fox DHX 5.0 Air rear shock on my voltage but with all of the different sizes and options to choose from with the plethora of Fox items and different sizes and other details, I am not sure what would actually work on my bike with both the shocks measurements and what I want the bike to do. In the end I am wanting a Freeride bike that is pedal friendly. I will be sticking with a single crown bike and will be upgrading the stock fork to a Fox 180mm but another question to this is looking at my headset it has it listed as the following "FSA Orbit E 1.5R, alloy cups 1.5 Reducer to 11/8, semi-integrated" with that being known will I have to get a tapered steer tube from 1.5 to 1 1/8? From my understanding I will but I just wanted to make sure before purchasing any additional items. I also am wanting a flat bar as I used a flat bar that was 31" on my dirt jumper and loved how it felt and just wanted some advice of what brand of flat bar would be a good choice? Currently I am leaning towards raceface myself but just wanted some more help with that for someone who was using a flat bar. There is a whole lot more that I am wanting advice, encouragement, and help on but for now I won't burn anyone's brain out of their head and just leave it at that.

    Thanks."

    So here is what I posted on pinkbike but got no responses so please help. I like the idea of running a Talas fork with the option of running 180mm or 140mm. But otherwise my problem right now has to do with the rear shock as I am wanting to throw on a fox DHX 5.0 or a fox float CTD. I am just not sure with the different sizes of the rear shocks so I thought I would ask all of you. The shock mounts on the bike are the stock ones from the factory. Hopefully that gives you an idea of what size of shock I will need. Any help is greatly appreciated and I hope that my post will keep this alive as the Voltage FR has lived on into 2013!

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