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  1. #101
    El Pollo Diablo
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    First off, thanks so much for your continued input in this thread Buck, it's the one i keep coming back to as I plan my pie-in-the-sky Voltage build.

    The different shock mounts, where might one go about sourcing a set?
    Ditto for the different dropouts, assuming they are not included with each 'type' of frame (10/20 vs 30 vs frame only)
    Last edited by SnowMongoose; 04-20-2010 at 06:40 PM.

  2. #102
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    shock mounts and dropouts - scott dealers can get them for you

  3. #103
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    hey ben, got a question

    when you run the 200mm e2e with the 215 mounts, what kind of head angle do you wind up with (and what fork at the time)

    just wondering, as I've got a DHX kicking around that I could mount up

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by The_Pitbull
    hey ben, got a question

    when you run the 200mm e2e with the 215 mounts, what kind of head angle do you wind up with (and what fork at the time)

    just wondering, as I've got a DHX kicking around that I could mount up
    With a 130mm fork that gives me a 66 head angle and 110mm of travel in the back. Lately I have been running a +2 eccentric headset putting the head angle at 68 for the jumps. It works nice as a 110mm travel bike like that.

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by buckoW
    With a 130mm fork that gives me a 66 head angle and 110mm of travel in the back. Lately I have been running a +2 eccentric headset putting the head angle at 68 for the jumps. It works nice as a 110mm travel bike like that.
    given that I only have the VAN 36, that would leave me a little on the slack side of things

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by The_Pitbull
    given that I only have the VAN 36, that would leave me a little on the slack side of things
    It is fun for mini dh like that and is very slack. I have a bigger travel one with a Van 36 where I set it up low and slack but with 160mm front and 150mm back. But that is with the 222mm mounts and the 215mm shock.

  7. #107
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    I got my FR20 yesterday, went riding and I love it! the only minor problem I have, so to speak, is the bolt up rear end (as I had to remove my rear wheel to get it into a friend's car). I am thinking of going down the rear maxle route. Could anyone give me a rough idea of how much the maxle drop outs would cost me? Thanks, Ryan.

  8. #108
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    Even if you were dealing with horizontal dropouts -which you aren't- it's not that big a hassle to undo a bolt-on rear wheel.
    Maxle it if you feel the need to drop some cash, I guess.

  9. #109
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    I just think maybe un-doing the rear end may increase the chances of rounding the axle bolts off. Having a maxle would make things a whole lot easier. I just want to know roughly how much the specific drop outs are really. Maybe Ben would know?..

  10. #110
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    if you round out those bolts, then you shouldnt handle allen keys. Pretty good system IMO

    however, I've now gone through both tubes Front was killed 2nd ride, pinch flatted, and not sure about the rear, but it is likey from glass. (4th ride)

    however, the above was done with single ply betties on, not the DH ones

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryan_ransom
    I got my FR20 yesterday, went riding and I love it! the only minor problem I have, so to speak, is the bolt up rear end (as I had to remove my rear wheel to get it into a friend's car). I am thinking of going down the rear maxle route. Could anyone give me a rough idea of how much the maxle drop outs would cost me? Thanks, Ryan.
    Yes I have found the axle to be very tight in the Formula rear hub. I tried the axle in the 12mm Hope Pro II conversion kit (yet to be swapped with qr axle that is in this my Pro II hub hub) and it slides in and out very smoothly. Have to use a mallet to remove the axle from the formula hub. Is this right? Was also considering the maxle for this reason.

  12. #112
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    Hey guys,

    I ran the Maxle system for a while but my axle kept coming loose on trails with a lot of cornering. No matter how much I tightened it, it always came loose after 3 or more runs. I don't know how much they cost because I don't like them very much.

    sjsielen: The tight axle is not normal. I will ask.

  13. #113
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    Short or Long

    Hey, got a few problems in picking up the size of the voltage fr bike. I`m 5.90(180cm) and weigh about 180pounds (83-85kg). Until now i`ve only been playing around with my hardtail which was a medium, pretty fun. Thing is i intend to use this one for DH and fr,maybe going for a 200mm fork later, so i`m pretty unsure about picking the small one. Any advices would come in handy.

    Cheers!

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hardtails Are Better
    You'll have to change springs if you change the travel on any bike using the same shock. The reason the travel changes is that the leverage ratio changes. Changing the leverage ratio means you need to change springs.

    Hey guys. I know this may come a little too late. But I was reading through the posts and has anyone actually changed the travel settings without changing/switching springs?

    e.g. Change from 170mm to 150mm without changing springs.

    And If I want shorter travel, could I just use an air shock to save money on buying additional springs?

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by jayng
    Hey guys. I know this may come a little too late. But I was reading through the posts and has anyone actually changed the travel settings without changing/switching springs?

    e.g. Change from 170mm to 150mm without changing springs.

    And If I want shorter travel, could I just use an air shock to save money on buying additional springs?
    I use an air shock pretty often with the Voltage FR and it works very well. You can change travel with out changing springs and the lesser travel hole will give you firmer travel with the same spring. It works well for jumping when the suspension is stiffer.

  16. #116
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    BuckoW, Thanks for the information.

    Anyone happen to know if Scott will be releasing a 2011 version for the Voltage FR?

  17. #117
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    Hi,
    I have the same problem with rear axle. Need a mallet to extract it from the hub.
    A bit heavy in the camelback...

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by jayng
    BuckoW, Thanks for the information.

    Anyone happen to know if Scott will be releasing a 2011 version for the Voltage FR?

    yes they will

  19. #119
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    Which shock upgrade for FR30

    Hey guys,
    just changed over to an FR30 from a Commencal Supreme DH as I needed a more all round bike.
    I originally looked at an SX trail, Bullitt or Wildcard, I hand never seen or even heard of the Voltage FR.
    luckily I went to a shop I don't normally use and saw the FR30, a quick ride later and I was sold. The bike rides great and fits everything I was looking for and at a great price.
    So far I have swapped out the bars to a spare pair of Sunline V1's I had and changed the pedals to some Wellgo MG1's (dirt cheap, will see how they hold up, so far they have been great).
    I have also fitted the Mo-Co cartridge to the Domains, really suprised how good these forks feel when they have broken in (I was always a zocchi fan).
    My only area of concern is the stock Roco, I have had one of these in the past and changed it quickly due to it constantly leaking. I also find it blows through its travel quickly even after changing the spring to 450lb (I think adjustable compression is the only way forward).

    What Coil Shock is best suited to the Voltage for all round riding?
    I have spent considerable time on the following:-
    DHX5 on a Cove G-Spot
    Pushed DHX 5 on a Cove G-Spot (far superior to stock but exspensive).
    Rock Shox Vivid on a Commencal Supreme DH (almost as good as the Pushed DHX).

    I have never ridden a Manitou shock but I see Revox's cheap all the time.
    I have looked at a Pushed Van R as a cheapish upgrade (TFTuned rate these very highly as fit and forget shocks)

    Any unbiased advice/opinions would be greatly appreciated.

  20. #120
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    Does anybody know where I can get a FR 30 in Socal? Or even a place that can ship it here. Thanks...


    Never mind, found one.
    Last edited by SlickShoe671; 06-06-2010 at 12:42 AM.

  21. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by casca noir
    Hey guys,
    just changed over to an FR30 from a Commencal Supreme DH as I needed a more all round bike.
    I originally looked at an SX trail, Bullitt or Wildcard, I hand never seen or even heard of the Voltage FR.
    luckily I went to a shop I don't normally use and saw the FR30, a quick ride later and I was sold. The bike rides great and fits everything I was looking for and at a great price.
    So far I have swapped out the bars to a spare pair of Sunline V1's I had and changed the pedals to some Wellgo MG1's (dirt cheap, will see how they hold up, so far they have been great).
    I have also fitted the Mo-Co cartridge to the Domains, really suprised how good these forks feel when they have broken in (I was always a zocchi fan).
    My only area of concern is the stock Roco, I have had one of these in the past and changed it quickly due to it constantly leaking. I also find it blows through its travel quickly even after changing the spring to 450lb (I think adjustable compression is the only way forward).

    What Coil Shock is best suited to the Voltage for all round riding?
    I have spent considerable time on the following:-
    DHX5 on a Cove G-Spot
    Pushed DHX 5 on a Cove G-Spot (far superior to stock but exspensive).
    Rock Shox Vivid on a Commencal Supreme DH (almost as good as the Pushed DHX).

    I have never ridden a Manitou shock but I see Revox's cheap all the time.
    I have looked at a Pushed Van R as a cheapish upgrade (TFTuned rate these very highly as fit and forget shocks)

    Any unbiased advice/opinions would be greatly appreciated.

    The bike was designed around an RC4.

  22. #122
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    I'm riding a M size 2008 Santa Cruz Nomad (70mm stem). And I was wondering which size of the Voltage would better fit me. The S or the L.

    My LBS only has the S size in stock and If need be, they will order the L in. But that means I HAVE to buy it even before trying it out. I did try out the S, feel kinda comfortable. Hands are not cramped, but I just tried the voltage for only 2 minutes or so. And maybe because I like the bike so much, I fear it might have clouded my judgment.

    1. I'm about 5' 10". Has anyone here rode a M size Santa Cruz and switched to the Voltage FR? If so, What size did you get. the LBS says that L are for 6-footers.

    2. What is the lowest travel for fork options? 140mm? 100mm?

    3. Can the Voltage take a Boxxer up front with only 170mm travel in the rear? I'm getting the FR30 and don't intend to swap the shocks just yet.
    Last edited by jayng; 06-08-2010 at 11:39 PM.

  23. #123
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    Also, would Deity Vendetta cranks be weird on this bike?

  24. #124
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    You could run all of those parts and it would work well. I have ran my fork at 100mm but prefer 130mm with 135mm in the back.

  25. #125
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    also jay, I'm 5'10", and ride a size long, but it is first and formost my downhill/lift access bike, so I wasnt worried as much about dirt jumping it

  26. #126
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    The_Pitbull,

    I'm not really looking at the Voltage FR to be a DJ bike only. (I guess the deity cranks made it seem like a DJ bike. I was just wondering if anyone used these cranks for DH. Kinda silly ?) More of an all-rounder. did you manage to try out the short as well? Was it a lot of difference?


    buckoW,

    As usual, you've been very helpful. Thanks.



    Still looking for anyone who had any experience switching from a Nomad M size to a voltage FR

  27. #127
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    Jay - from a long to a short is an inch effective top tube if I remember correctly. it's not a huge difference

    not sure where the deity crank conversation came from

  28. #128
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    so, I'm trying to install saint cranks on my fr10, but the non-drive crank arm comes to under a mm away from the chainstay yoke area (where the yoke is welded to the rest of the stay)

    they are installed with the spacer correctly installed, and flipping the spacer over to the non-drive side spaces the arm about right, but ruins the chain line

  29. #129
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    Hey The Pitbull,

    When Shimano did the new Saints they rewrote what was a good chainline due to the thicker chainring tabs. I think it would be fine with the bb spacer on the non drive side. I do that all the time to get my chain ring more inboard. Do you only have one spacer?

  30. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by buckoW
    Hey The Pitbull,

    When Shimano did the new Saints they rewrote what was a good chainline due to the thicker chainring tabs. I think it would be fine with the bb spacer on the non drive side. I do that all the time to get my chain ring more inboard. Do you only have one spacer?
    ya, I have only one spacer in there.I'm going to have to take a look at moving the chainguide around today

  31. #131
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    DH worthy?

    I'm looking to buy a new bike towards the end of the year and I am looking for a bigger bike. Right now I have a Giant Reign X1 for my gravity ride, but would like something more. I like the versatility that the Voltage FR has, but I am curious how DH worthy is it? Every time there is a promo for this bike it shows the Coastal Crew, but they are riding Gamblers?? I'm not looking to race, just riding Bootleg Canyon (local trail). I see Ben is rocking a Fox 40, will that void the warranty? I'm defiantly going to look for this bike at I-bike demo days.

  32. #132
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    jd, I spoke with scott about that when I was looking at it. They will keep your warranty intact, no matter what fork you run

  33. #133
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    BuckoW... What brand on the eccentric headset?

  34. #134
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    Last edited by SlickShoe671; 06-23-2010 at 12:49 AM.

  35. #135
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    By the looks of things.. just a voltage with boxxers on there..

  36. #136
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    Any word on 2011? Are the prices going to stay relatively the same?

  37. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skogas
    BuckoW... What brand on the eccentric headset?
    I have one K9 and 2 my friend made for me.

  38. #138
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    E2e Shock Length

    Hey...My Voltage FR10 frame will be here thursday and was wondering what is the actual E2E length of the shock that is stock on it. I want to change to a coil. I saw a couple of posts here about running different size shocks for different types of riding. I am most gonna use for DH so want the most amout of travel. I read you can go 9.5" that would give you more travel, like 160-180 mm. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I wanna get something ordered to have when the bike is here. Also....Elka or Fox DHX coil??

    Thanks

  39. #139
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    Hey mtnrider1009,

    You are correct should run the 240mm i2i shock on the Voltage FR for DH stuff. I like the Fox RC4 on that bike but have friends that love the Elka too.

  40. #140
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    BuckoW...One more question, The longer shock will raise the bottom bracket height correct and if I am putting my dual crown boxxer on it that should bring it down a little bit and even it back out? I am ordering an avalanche rear shock for it and the guys there said they can even make it 9.25 instead of 9.5. Would I just be splitting hairs at that point for that 1/4 inch as far as the bottom bracket height is concerned? Thanks for the help!

  41. #141
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    And what is optimal rear suspension set for not racing DH-style?
    Can it be the shock 8.75x2.75 with using mounts of i2i for 240 mm?

  42. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnrider1009
    BuckoW...One more question, The longer shock will raise the bottom bracket height correct and if I am putting my dual crown boxxer on it that should bring it down a little bit and even it back out? I am ordering an avalanche rear shock for it and the guys there said they can even make it 9.25 instead of 9.5. Would I just be splitting hairs at that point for that 1/4 inch as far as the bottom bracket height is concerned? Thanks for the help!
    That is a good idea and I actually have a 232mm i2i shock for exactly this purpose. I wouldn't go any shorter than 232mm but yours at 234.9mm would probably work very well too. I would say go for it.

  43. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebrand
    And what is optimal rear suspension set for not racing DH-style?
    Can it be the shock 8.75x2.75 with using mounts of i2i for 240 mm?
    I do that too sometimes and it gives you a 330mm to 335mm bb height with a nice and slack head angle. It is pretty low but carves the flat turn so well.

  44. #144
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    anyone know of a dealer in southern california that carries these? by that, I mean they have some in their showroom for people to actually look at? Thanks.

  45. #145
    dontcha?
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    "The future belongs to those that believe in the beauty of their dreams."

  46. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mowerman
    anyone know of a dealer in southern california that carries these? by that, I mean they have some in their showroom for people to actually look at? Thanks.

    Not sure where in SoCal you are but they had a few here
    http://www.bikewarrior.com/

  47. #147
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    My current set up on my Voltage 20

  48. #148
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    jenson hasn't had them in months and won't be getting any more in.

    I'll try Bikewarrior.

    Thanks.

  49. #149
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    Just bought my wife one last week. FR 20. This thing is awesome. I wish I could think of a way to make it an all mtn. ride. I weighed it and a whopping 38.5lbs. Yikes! I think it's rated @ 36lbs. That's a bit off I'd say. Fun as hell bike though. Me thinks I want's one too! Rode the FR 10 last w/e @ Winter Park, Co. and she jumps and handles beautifully. Great price for a great bike.

  50. #150
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    Bought one for my wife as well a few weeks ago, trying to come up with an excuse to buy another one for myself now!!!

    Watching allmtnman ride one was inspiring, it made eating SH** look pretty impressive!!!!
    Quote Originally Posted by thump View Post
    How about we take the "let it burn approach" with the rotting cesspool of the Denver metro?

  51. #151
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    You had best leave that trick to the pro's! I don't think you can handle a bike like that either. You best just stick to the Gambler.

  52. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by Allmtnman
    You had best leave that trick to the pro's! I don't think you can handle a bike like that either. You best just stick to the Gambler.
    Yeah... probably right. If only i was as good at riding as I am at talking smack!!!



    Hey, thinking about using this as a DJ bike (I'd like to have 4"ish rear?) what kind of setup would you guys think would be ideal? There's so many doable configurations that I don't want to try to mix & match to find what would feel good. I've never had a FS DJ bike, so I'm not really sure what is ideal for that.
    Quote Originally Posted by thump View Post
    How about we take the "let it burn approach" with the rotting cesspool of the Denver metro?

  53. #153
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    What about the Transition Bottlerocket? That seems to be a sweet bike for dirtjumping. There was one on the Craigslist. I think it's a 5" bike and the geo. is similar. http://denver.craigslist.org/bik/1921225337.html

  54. #154
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    New Voltage Fr10

    Here are two pics of the Voltage fr10 frameset it built up. 2010 boxxer on the front and Avalanche in the rear. Can't wait to get out on this beast!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Scott Voltage FR-voltage-fr1.jpg  

    Scott Voltage FR-voltage-fr2.jpg  


  55. #155
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    So, of you guys that have the FR20, what have you done to the fork to make it work better?

    Allmtnman & I have 3 fr20's & have been pretty disappointed with the fork on it. If nobody has any better ideas I'm going to put an MC damper in it, cheap fix but likely not quite enough to make it worth keeping.
    Quote Originally Posted by thump View Post
    How about we take the "let it burn approach" with the rotting cesspool of the Denver metro?

  56. #156
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    Some new coastal Crew vids.

    CC - Episode 10 - http://www.pinkbike.com/news/CCEp10.html

    - Whip Edit/Dirt shoot -

  57. #157
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    So, anybody figure a way to mount a front derailer on this bike?

  58. #158
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    yeah ben those coastal crew videos are all badass.

  59. #159
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    What do you think of the new Scott Voltage FR20 with Rockshox Domain Dualcrown??

    http://www.scott-sports.com/us_en/pr...4/55660/217970


  60. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by lona79
    What do you think of the new Scott Voltage FR20 with Rockshox Domain Dualcrown??

    http://www.scott-sports.com/us_en/pr...4/55660/217970

    The BB on the 2011 frames is lower to optimize the geo for the 180mm SC forks and double crown forks. I think it feels sweet but I am thoroughly biased.

  61. #161
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    so my lbs finally got a voltage in stock and some shop info.

    something i'd be interested in if i got one of these bikes is playing with various shock sizes and drop-out lengths.

    but here's the sticking point: almost 100 for the shock mounts and 47 for drop-outs!!
    even if i just damage the mech hanger, boom! 47 on top of a new mech and probably some spokes.
    could i buy just the drive-side in that sort of situation?

    also, it's been mentioned that florian pugin uses angled headset cups in her wc bike. i've not been able to find these for semi-integrated headtubes. are hers' custom or does her proto frame use a traditional 1.5" headtube?

  62. #162
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    After hemming and hawing over SX Trails and Bottle Rockets, I found this.

    And this I like. I mean, really, really like.

    One question, though. How does the DHX RC2 ride compared to the RC4? How much is lost, if anything really, without the ability to adjust the high-speed compression?

    Thanks for any opinions!

  63. #163
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    So I weighed this FR10 and it comes out @ 37.5 lbs with a boxxer race on the front. Seems like a pedalable bike to me. I am now in the process of putting a 32t ring in front and a 10 speed cassette in the rear, both of which seem to be lighter than the stock stuff. Should be around 36 to 37 lbs with the fox van, the paint stripped, and lighter drivetrain. I'll give a full report once finished. Lighter than my Enduro at this point.
    The more people I meet, the more I like my dog!!!

  64. #164
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    Here's a pic of the 10 stripped. 37.4 lbs with the Boxxer and yes the chain was on it when I weighed it.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    The more people I meet, the more I like my dog!!!

  65. #165
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    Heres a better one.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    The more people I meet, the more I like my dog!!!

  66. #166
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    Hey Voltage FR owners,

    How frequently do you *actually* change the suspension set-ups on your bike?

    So I've picked out the 2011 FR20 as the perfect bike for me (along with the shortest shock+hardware+fork option). I live in a tight space and have 4 bikes already. I want a bike that will handle an amateur DH race, days at the bike park, Big Mountain Shuttles, 4X, Dual Slalom, Dirt Jump, Urban, and the occasional Skate Park session (obviously with a few compromises made along the way).

    Unlike BuckoW, I can't have multiple frames in different set-ups and sizes so I'll be changing the entire suspension set-up once or twice a week. Does that sounds like an unrealistic hassle? Are people doing this or is it a set it and forget it (for a while) sort of thing?

  67. #167
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    Ok so im looking to buy a voltage fr10 but i dont like the build the shops sell i have had issues with truvativ parts cracking before. Im wondering if anyone can recomend a good build for the bike using a 180 mm front fork, i want to use the bike mostly for freeriding with the odd local downhill race. im looking to spend about 4000 thats like $6500.

    Thanks very much, sam.

  68. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by I R Biker
    Hey Voltage FR owners,

    How frequently do you *actually* change the suspension set-ups on your bike?

    So I've picked out the 2011 FR20 as the perfect bike for me (along with the shortest shock+hardware+fork option). I live in a tight space and have 4 bikes already. I want a bike that will handle an amateur DH race, days at the bike park, Big Mountain Shuttles, 4X, Dual Slalom, Dirt Jump, Urban, and the occasional Skate Park session (obviously with a few compromises made along the way).

    Unlike BuckoW, I can't have multiple frames in different set-ups and sizes so I'll be changing the entire suspension set-up once or twice a week. Does that sounds like an unrealistic hassle? Are people doing this or is it a set it and forget it (for a while) sort of thing?

    Changing the fork and shock are easy. When you start changing tires and disc size is when it becomes a pain for me. I run a Talas up front and keep the big discs so I only have to change tires and rear shock which works well for me. If you like working on your bike and getting it dialed in then it is not too big a deal.

    P.S. I usually only have one running because I always steal parts off the other bikes when something brakes.

  69. #169
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    New build started:


  70. #170
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    Hey guys
    I just ordered the new 2011 FR30, I didnt order the FR20 because the 200mm dual crown has too much travel and the gears are getting partet out for the new x9 10 speed anyway, im also seriously consittering a setup with fox36 160mm travel.. Anyone know if the bb height is to low for the 160mm travel (ive heard the 2011 model has a lower bb)??

  71. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by kedde
    Hey guys
    I just ordered the new 2011 FR30, I didnt order the FR20 because the 200mm dual crown has too much travel and the gears are getting partet out for the new x9 10 speed anyway, im also seriously consittering a setup with fox36 160mm travel.. Anyone know if the bb height is to low for the 160mm travel (ive heard the 2011 model has a lower bb)??
    It works great with the 160mm 36. You can run it in the 150 or 170 mm hole and will be fine. 150 mm if you want to be up a bit higher for pedalling and 170 if you want more stability in the corners. I run my Gambler's bb height lower and it has more travel. Low bb are so sick for cornering and drifting.

  72. #172
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    Hey guys :-)
    I just ordered my 2011 FR10 (Long - I am 6ft2 tall) - can't wait to receive it! Are there any upgrades that are immediately worthwhile (to save weight or better performance)? I am going to get some decent pedals, maybe Straitlines or similar, some tires, and might change the seat, grips and seatpost as they seem like pretty budget items on an otherwise top spec bike.

    The stock shock and fork will be my downhill / big freeride setup, but I am interested in getting an alternative setup for more jumpy tracks/ 4X so the shortest shock mounts, a suitable RP23 and a ~140mm fork . I don't want to mess about with changing headsets each time I swap the setup, so it would need to be a fork with a tapered steerer. Any suggestions, particularly from Buckow who seems to have tried every setup going are most welcome!
    Cheers! Pics will be uploaded when it arrives!

  73. #173
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    Yeah, you can save a bunch of weight with the seat, post and cranks. I would give the tires a try if you ride in dry conditions. I like the Muddy Mary for wet or mixed conditions.

    The OEM RP23 was a custom tuned shock for last year's bike so I would recommend a DHX air because it is easier to get the stock shock working well. If you do get an RP23 then get the BV one with a firm compression tune and the smallest air can possible. Even then you might want to shim the secondary air chamber to get it progressive enough for steep lips. The DHX 5 air can get you there by external adjustments. The mid stroke wallow people sometimes talk about with a DHX air was addressed with the linkage due to the mid stroke support mechanically and low leverage ratio.

    I really like a Talas on mine so I only have to change the rear shock and tires if I go jumping or FR/DHing. Have fun setting it up and don't hesitate to ask if you need advice on setup.

  74. #174
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    Hi - thanks for the great reply, I didn't know anything about the different tunes of the shocks or about the RP23 vs DHX air! That does sound a good idea, swapping out the VAN 36 180 for a Talas 180, I guess I would have to test out a TALAS to compare to the Van, as I have heard the Talas has poor small bump compliance. So the RC2 on the back with a Talas up front doesn't feel mismatched at all?
    So for the 135 mm rear travel I would want a 215mm rear shock - with what length stroke?
    Do you know what the geometry of the 2011 bike is with a 140mm fork and 135 on the rear?
    Thanks a lot for your advice- I know that is a lot of questions I asked there!

  75. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghosts_cloak
    Hi - thanks for the great reply, I didn't know anything about the different tunes of the shocks or about the RP23 vs DHX air! That does sound a good idea, swapping out the VAN 36 180 for a Talas 180, I guess I would have to test out a TALAS to compare to the Van, as I have heard the Talas has poor small bump compliance. So the RC2 on the back with a Talas up front doesn't feel mismatched at all?
    So for the 135 mm rear travel I would want a 215mm rear shock - with what length stroke?
    Do you know what the geometry of the 2011 bike is with a 140mm fork and 135 on the rear?
    Thanks a lot for your advice- I know that is a lot of questions I asked there!

    No problem.

    You would have around a 330mm bb height with the 140mm fork and 215mm i2i shock. The new 180 Talas with Kashima is a sweet fork. The Van has less to go wrong but I haven't had any problems with a Talas and the new ones are simpler. The RC2 is tuned for the frame OEM and works well with any of the 3 RC2 180mm forks from Fox. The HSC is internally set in the middle by the way. Make sure you are not over sprung.

  76. #176
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    Still some fine tuning and a few parts to swap, but done for now. Crap cell phone pic:



    Big thanks to Ben for answering all of my questions!

  77. #177
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    My custom build

  78. #178
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    Nice bikes guys! I love seeing all the different builds and suspension setups.

  79. #179
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    bearback: What length shock and shock mount are you running there?

  80. #180
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    5'6 tall...DH-oriented purpose...better off w/ the short frame?

    narrowed down my purchase next season to a FR20.

  81. #181
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    Good job! Scott Voltage FR 30

    Quote Originally Posted by buckoW
    Hey Guys,

    Yeah, I have been very busy lately building trails and testing bikes.
    here are a couple pics of my bikes with different setups.

    A couple action shots







    and some bike pics



















    and these bikes were geometry testing team only versions that helped us fine tune the geometry for different fork heights.



    I will get back here to better explain some of the setup options later but for now I gotta run.
    Hi, I am looking at getting a Scott Voltage FR 30. How do you think it would compare with my kona stinky six? also could you measure the frame size on the size short?
    Thanks,
    Jesse

  82. #182
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    Hey guys. my 2011 FR10 (Long) has arrived! I haven't actually had chance to ride it yet, but I hope to go out tomorrow. I just have it set at 180mm front and back for now, but I tend to do quite a lot of jumpy trails so I might try the 165mm rear setting, but that might make the spring feel a little too firm...
    Anyway here is a pic!

    Cheers!

  83. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by drastic.
    5'6 tall...DH-oriented purpose...better off w/ the short frame?

    narrowed down my purchase next season to a FR20.
    I'm 5'6" tall and sat (not ridden) on Amish Matt's Long frame...
    I'm heading toward a Short frame for my purchase in a few months..
    Hope that helps.
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  84. #184
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    Just wanted to bump the thread since I ordered my 2011 FR20 from my LBS today. Should hopefully be in sometime in early to mid February.

    2011 Scott Voltage FR20
    2009 Rocky Mountain Slayer

  85. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by konarider234
    Hi, I am looking at getting a Scott Voltage FR 30. How do you think it would compare with my kona stinky six? also could you measure the frame size on the size short?
    Thanks,
    Jesse
    Hey Jesse,

    I have not ridden a Kona in a long time but the main difference is adjustability. If you are jumping a lot you can optimize the geo and suspension for that style of riding and if you are into DH then you can tune it for that too. You can have much shorter chain stays for example if you want to bike to be more playful. With the lower leverage ratio of the suspension system these bikes roll over rough terrain very well too. I think it would be a huge improvement over your old bike but take it for what it is worth. I am heavily biased so maybe one of these other guys can give you less biased advice.

    Hope that helps.

    Ben

  86. #186
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    2011 FR10 Long, ordered early December picked up late December. Very nice bike!

  87. #187
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    OK guys, I am looking for a bit of feedback on this frame...is anyone actually pedalling these bikes? I would need it to do some AM duty, and this frame is squarely up against a Knolly Delirium. I figure that the Delirium is probably a bit more on the AM/FR side, whereas this is FR/dh...but wanted to find out. It would be built with a 170mm Lyrik/5.1 rims/saints, etc.

    What kind of sag are you guys using? The manual specs 40%.
    Anyone running a dropper post on it?
    It seems that there is bottom out progression built into the leverage curve - does that seem to differ between the short and long travel mounts?
    Are the adjustable chainstay (IDS system) made for traditional wheels, or do I need a hub that has a 12mm thru axle? I currently have a CK HD set with Fun bolts.

    Ok, just trying to figure out if this is a frame that I can make work for me. Thanks in advance.

  88. #188
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    The pic above is of my bike and i run a KS i950 remote on it and helps alot. I have ridden it once for AM use and it did well but my fitness level is not as high as most so some hills i pushed up. I run 20% sag on front and about the same in the rear. I am not too sure about wheels but i know that the FR30 has a nutted rear wheel with track nut. I was debating on getting '11 SX Trail 2, Knolly Delirum and the Voltage FR10. I went with the Voltage because it got such great reviews, super adjustable and $1800 less that the Delirum with a lesser build and $1300 less than the SX with a similar build. Atleast those were the best prices i could find and i paid $3120 for my FR10. This bike can be run as hardcore FR, reasonable DH w/dual crown, Slopestyle and with a front derailur and couple chain rings on front i feel like it would be a decent AM rig. I think it could be a 1 bike with the mounts and drop outs and a rp23. Thats just how i feel.

  89. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by meSSican
    The pic above is of my bike and i run a KS i950 remote on it and helps alot. I have ridden it once for AM use and it did well but my fitness level is not as high as most so some hills i pushed up. I run 20% sag on front and about the same in the rear. I am not too sure about wheels but i know that the FR30 has a nutted rear wheel with track nut. I was debating on getting '11 SX Trail 2, Knolly Delirum and the Voltage FR10. I went with the Voltage because it got such great reviews, super adjustable and $1800 less that the Delirum with a lesser build and $1300 less than the SX with a similar build. Atleast those were the best prices i could find and i paid $3120 for my FR10. This bike can be run as hardcore FR, reasonable DH w/dual crown, Slopestyle and with a front derailur and couple chain rings on front i feel like it would be a decent AM rig. I think it could be a 1 bike with the mounts and drop outs and a rp23. Thats just how i feel.
    Thanks for the feedback!

    About the chainrings/derailleur , I don't think it was an option on this bike, but I could be wrong. I don't really mind as I can ride a 32t on about anything where I live.

  90. #190
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    Yeah, it wasn't an option on any of the models. The FR10 and 20 come with 36t and the FR30 rocks a 34t up front.

  91. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharacterZero
    OK guys, I am looking for a bit of feedback on this frame...is anyone actually pedalling these bikes? I would need it to do some AM duty, and this frame is squarely up against a Knolly Delirium. I figure that the Delirium is probably a bit more on the AM/FR side, whereas this is FR/dh...but wanted to find out. It would be built with a 170mm Lyrik/5.1 rims/saints, etc.

    What kind of sag are you guys using? The manual specs 40%.
    Anyone running a dropper post on it?
    It seems that there is bottom out progression built into the leverage curve - does that seem to differ between the short and long travel mounts?
    Are the adjustable chainstay (IDS system) made for traditional wheels, or do I need a hub that has a 12mm thru axle? I currently have a CK HD set with Fun bolts.

    Ok, just trying to figure out if this is a frame that I can make work for me. Thanks in advance.
    Hey,
    I think I have more like 30% sag in long travel mode, and less in short travel. There is a significant difference in feel between the two settings, the short travel feels like it ramps up much more.
    My FR10 has a bolt through rear axle, but I think that you can get a standard dropout for it according to http://www.scott-sports.com/download...reeride_en.pdf . The rear isn't incredibly stiff even with the bolt through so I wouldn't downgrade to a standard axle personally.
    It pedals okay, but the weight, amount of suspension and geometry would make it a real drag uphill! I guess it depends how often you ride "all mountain" and what sort of things you do on those rides.... Also maybe the low BB would be more of a problem for pedally AM stuff, although its great for drifting corners and railing berms
    Hope that helps a little

  92. #192
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    I was one of the lucky ones who got a FR20 with boxxers, however, the fork seems to be super stiff. I'm 195 lbs w/o gear and I am lucky to get 20% sag with the compression backed out all the way. Anyone else experience this? Is there a solution? It has the stock (red) spring in it.

  93. #193
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    Hi there! After looking all the posts I can be sure bike is the best most versatile bike planning getting one but sizing prob, lbs out of stock for Long size only left short, I'm 1.76m ard 5"7Feet doing mostly all mountain occasionally DH & light FR what size shoul I get.
    Last edited by Lotr7905; 01-13-2011 at 01:42 AM.

  94. #194
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    I'm right around your height and am headed toward a Short size.
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  95. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by amish_matt
    Still some fine tuning and a few parts to swap, but done for now. Crap cell phone pic:



    Big thanks to Ben for answering all of my questions!
    sweet build.
    How does it weight?

  96. #196
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    Thanks.

    As it sits there, it's 37.75lbs.

    It was mostly built with parts from my last frame, and I'll probably make a few changes once I get some ride time on it, but that's not going to be for a while.

    2010 Voltage FR-10 frame
    RP23 shock
    Totem 1.5 coil
    FSA Orbit E headset
    Thomson stem and seatpost
    Spank Spike 777 bar
    Sunline half waffle grips
    WTB silverado saddle
    X9 shifter and short cage derailleur
    Juicy 7's 203f/185r
    Hone cranks
    36t e.13 ring
    LG-1+
    KMC X9SL chain
    Ultegra cassette
    Atomlab Aircorp pedals
    Outlaw wheels
    Kenda Excavator 2.5's w/XC tubes

    It may end up with a coil shock and a 36 180 Float, which would probably be a wash, weight-wise, and possibly some lighter wheels, but for now, it's "done."

  97. #197
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    Weight Schmeight......
    The Totem should probably go...
    I hear that you may have a buyer for it.
    Bring that jawn over tonight so that we can do some fine tuning on it....
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  98. #198
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    just picked mine up!

    So I just got my 2011 Voltage FR 20, and holy hell is it bright! Like retina-burning bright. Greener than it looked on the computer screen, but damn it is a sexy bike. I've got a couple questions, and any tips would be helpful. First, I weigh between 190 and 200 lbs w/ gear, but with the stock 350 lb spring, I can't quite even get 30% sag, and the preload collar is backed out as far as it will go without allowing the spring to rattle. Is it just that the shock needs broken in? (I've never had a DH/FR bike before) The other question I have is about the stiffness of the rear end. I will start by saying that while I have not felt any flex while riding so far, doing the old grab the tire and shake test reveals a surprising amount of wobble. Is it just designed that way? I know that a certain amount of lateral flex can be good for cornering, but it feels like alot. My Enduro doesn't flex like that, and that's with a QR axle. I would expect the rear end to be super-stiff and solid, but it's not. I can't find the source of the play, either. Could be the hub, dropouts (doubt it), or any of the pivots (doubt that, too- they are pretty massive), or it could be the shock link, which looks a tad flimsy to me. With all that said, I can't wait til bike park season! Pretty sure my first run will be Silky Johnson at SolVista bike park. God I can't wait!

  99. #199
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdcatnau
    I was one of the lucky ones who got a FR20 with boxxers, however, the fork seems to be super stiff. I'm 195 lbs w/o gear and I am lucky to get 20% sag with the compression backed out all the way. Anyone else experience this? Is there a solution? It has the stock (red) spring in it.
    There are some spacers located on top of the spring on the left stanchion. You can remove some of those to lower the sag. If you're still not getting the correct sag with one spacer left, then you might want to change the spring to the yellow one.

  100. #200
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    Quote Originally Posted by nprider
    I can't find the source of the play, either. Could be the hub, dropouts (doubt it), or any of the pivots.

    Try tightening the main pivot with 2, 8mm allen keys.

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