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  1. #276
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    Congrats!!! Any of the Boxxers will be better, lot of guys are also throwing on Fox 40ís. The Domain DC isnít all that bad, just heavy and lacking in compression adjustment so pretty much anything with some compression adjustment will be an upgrade. Post up some pics!

  2. #277
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    Thanks for the recommendation. I'll post some photos when I get my hands on either a fox40 or boxxers.

  3. #278
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    so, finally... for this time


    Partlist:
    Frame - Scott Voltage FR "L" 3240g
    Shock - Marzocchi Roco WC Air - Custom Shimmed by TSS 538g
    Fork - Marzocchi 66 RC3 Evo with ATA Cartridge - Custom Shimmed by TSS 2730g
    Headset - FSA Orbit Z 1.5" to 1 1/8" 102g
    Stem - Thomson X4 Titanium Hardware 164g
    Bar - Easton Havoc Carbon 238g
    Seatpost - Easton EC90 Zero Titanium Hardware & Custom Yokes 118g
    Seat - Selle San Marco Aspide Superleggera Carbon 106g
    Seatclamp - Roxcyle SL 12g
    Hubs - DT 440 519g
    Spokes - 72x DT Revo 232g
    Nippel - DT Alu 22g
    Rims - DT EX5.1 1020g
    Gearing - Shimano XTR with Saint SS cage, Carbon-Ceramic Pulleys & Alu Hardware 161g
    Shiftcable/Hose: Alligator I-Link/XTR 62g
    Chain - Shimano XTR 262g
    Crank - Shimano XTR 523g
    BB - Shimano XTR 89g
    Chainwheel - Truvativ SS 33T 38g
    Cassette - Dura-Ace Titan 11-23 152g
    Pedals - Spank Spike with Alu Pins 388g
    Chainguard - e13 LG1+ Without Taco & complete drillet out 96g
    Brakes - Shimano XTR Lever With XT Caliper and Saint/Magura Hoses 552g
    Rotors - Shimano XT 200/180mm 350g
    Trigger - Shimano XTR Alu Hardware 106g
    Grips - BBB Foamrubber 32g
    Tires - Continental Baron 2.5" Black Chili 2320g
    Tubes - Michelin Latex C4 260g
    Rimstrip - Schwalbe Textil 8g
    Smallparts - Screws(Chainwheel/Guard), Spacer, Headcap, Grease etc. 80g

    Complete 14520g


    and with the old seat, but better picture for look the cleanliness
    Last edited by annihilator; 05-14-2012 at 12:06 PM.

  4. #279
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    Wow, even down to the gram. Wish I could get mine down to a weight close to that. That thing looks pimp! Dig the custom frame color.

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

  5. #280
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    Hey Ben,

    I have the 2011 Voltage FR short and am about 5'11" and some change. I currently run the 222 i-to-i shock as a vivid 5.1 C tune...and another guy wants to trade me for the long frameset, but a 2010. I noticed that there are some new differences in the 2011 framesets to compensate for longer front forks. What would I have to do to keep the geo the same? And is there a huge difference between the two? I wanna run a short SS setup but mainly pick big mt freeride lines and dh riding.

  6. #281
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    Hi,

    I know at least someone here must use the Voltage as a do-it-all bike from AM to DH. I would love to hear some details and experience on how a reasonably light build would pedal. Can you get enough seat extension (with the 420mm RS reverb, anyone)?

    My am bike is under 33lbs with a 7lb frame, and I believe the voltage is only 7.5 lbs. I'm on a slow-burn search for an eventual new frame.

    I havnt done all the research, but if there is an option for 150/170mm rear travel I'd go for that with a HV air shock, possibly without piggyback such as RS monarch rt3.

    I have the 180 float, and I would definitely make use of the adjustability bumping it up to full 180 for big shuttle weekends, but running it normally at 170 or 160 for general use.

    Thanks!

  7. #282
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    hi, the frame in large(2011) weights incl. 12mm dropouts(long), axle, shuttles(9.5" shock) and all mounting hardware for shock 7.12lbs

  8. #283
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    Quote Originally Posted by ride the biscuit View Post
    Hi,

    I know at least someone here must use the Voltage as a do-it-all bike from AM to DH. I would love to hear some details and experience on how a reasonably light build would pedal. Can you get enough seat extension (with the 420mm RS reverb, anyone)?

    My am bike is under 33lbs with a 7lb frame, and I believe the voltage is only 7.5 lbs. I'm on a slow-burn search for an eventual new frame.

    I havnt done all the research, but if there is an option for 150/170mm rear travel I'd go for that with a HV air shock, possibly without piggyback such as RS monarch rt3.

    I have the 180 float, and I would definitely make use of the adjustability bumping it up to full 180 for big shuttle weekends, but running it normally at 170 or 160 for general use.

    Thanks!
    I tried it with a 1x10 drivetrain. got the bike down to just under 36 lbs. That was with stock wheels and dh tires still on it. I think it would be feasable to get it to 34lbs if you wanna spend a little money and do an air fork, air shock, lighter wheels would be key and it would be relatively pedalable. Mine was not user friendly as an all mtn bike but I did not want to spend the coin. I would rather shell out for 2 bikes. The geometry is still gonna kill you on the voltage. You will need a super long seatpost which did help on mine, but still just an uphill battle. IMO just get a all mtn bike and keep the voltage for what it's made for. You will spend the same amount in upgrades as you will a good used am bike. Just my .02.
    The more people I meet, the more I like my dog!!!

  9. #284
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    Quote Originally Posted by ride the biscuit View Post
    Hi,

    I know at least someone here must use the Voltage as a do-it-all bike from AM to DH. I would love to hear some details and experience on how a reasonably light build would pedal. Can you get enough seat extension (with the 420mm RS reverb, anyone)?

    My am bike is under 33lbs with a 7lb frame, and I believe the voltage is only 7.5 lbs. I'm on a slow-burn search for an eventual new frame.

    I havnt done all the research, but if there is an option for 150/170mm rear travel I'd go for that with a HV air shock, possibly without piggyback such as RS monarch rt3.

    I have the 180 float, and I would definitely make use of the adjustability bumping it up to full 180 for big shuttle weekends, but running it normally at 170 or 160 for general use.

    Thanks!
    I had to use mine as a do it all bike for a while and it did alot better than i had expected. Mine is completely stock and I am in not so great shape. The only problem I had was my seat post being too short but i had cut it. I did have a KS adj seatpost in the longes one they carry and i found it too short @ 6' tall. I think it is doable but not the most ideal situation. I bought an AM bike for everything other than DH.

  10. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by Allmtnman View Post
    I tried it with a 1x10 drivetrain. got the bike down to just under 36 lbs. That was with stock wheels and dh tires still on it. I think it would be feasable to get it to 34lbs if you wanna spend a little money and do an air fork, air shock, lighter wheels would be key and it would be relatively pedalable. Mine was not user friendly as an all mtn bike but I did not want to spend the coin. I would rather shell out for 2 bikes. The geometry is still gonna kill you on the voltage. You will need a super long seatpost which did help on mine, but still just an uphill battle. IMO just get a all mtn bike and keep the voltage for what it's made for. You will spend the same amount in upgrades as you will a good used am bike. Just my .02.
    Thank you man, that is some crucial feedback! The overal sex appeal and adjustments possibilities made it attractive, but it is just out of range of what i need. The weight wouldnt be the issue with my build since i would swap stuff from my current light build, but if it just doesnt climb then thats my answer.

    Perhaps a banshee wildcard for me then...

  11. #286
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    I just bought a used 2011 Voltage FR30 this week After a few rides of DH at Deer Valley, I couldn't be more impressed. The bike has handled everything I've thrown at it, but I am pretty new to DH. The bike is just do easy to control and has helped me become a better rider just in a few days.

  12. #287
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    Is there any change in bottom bracket height or head angle when switching between the short and long travel settings with the same shock? Forgive me if this was mentioned somewhere in this thread, I didn't see it. Also- If a DHX AIR was run on this frame is there one length that would perform best due to leverage ratio?

  13. #288
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    same angles/bb height on LT or ST mode.

    DHX air and perform... sry, but buy a roco air, vivid air, ccdb air, evolver/swinger air, this all perform.

  14. #289
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    hi guys, considering an 11 fr10.

    im 6"2 and am concerned the bike will be too small? the TT is 582mm with is shorter than my operator M which was too small.

    Any tall guys riding a voltage?

  15. #290
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    6'0" riding a L.
    60mm stem, no problems and I've a very long back.

    Its perfect size for me for FR/DH. If I were pedaling it more, i'd need a 480+mm seat post though.. I run a 420mm now and its a shade low for a nice 'XC power pedal stroke' but perfect ride to the lifts or plod up fire road

    Specs should probably be taken with a pinch of salt.. you should really throw a leg over one to see how it fits rather than rely on manufacturers interpretations of numbers.

    Consider the seat tube angle too.. when your saddle is slammed on that Frankenstein looking Operator, its going to shorten it right up.
    An uncut 420mm post gives me plenty of saddle clearance even for the steepest stuff in Whistler but keeps the effective top tube pretty normal.

    /2c

  16. #291
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    thanks for the reply. 60mm stem certainly isnt short though. True i slammed the konas seat but i also had a 60mm stem on that. love to hear some other opinions, but your dead right about throwing a leg over, shame its a few hours drive away!

  17. #292
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    Hey, I am 5'9" long frame?
    Go out and rid...SHRED

  18. #293
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    You could get by either size. Its all about personal preference and usage. I've heard of 6 foot tall guys getting by on the short frame. If going for more of a dj/fr type bike, riding tighter trails maybe go short, more all out dh, go long. I'm 5'9" and ride a long frame. I ride my voltage on everything from flowy jump trails to all out dh gnar. The long fits perfect for me.

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

  19. #294
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    Thanks brah.
    Go out and rid...SHRED

  20. #295
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    rexpect

  21. #296
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    Did anybody knows if itīs possible to put a Truvativ Hammerschmidt FR on the bike?

  22. #297
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    Quote Originally Posted by jayng View Post
    I agree. I don't see any draw back to this bike. But it just seems too good to be true. Am thinking of giving up my nomad 08' for this bike. But seeing that I had only owned the Nomad for a year and I'll lose a good part of money on the resale, am thinking twice. But another drawback is that I won't get to test the Voltage FR before ordering it in.
    I have a 2011 voltage fr 10 and i always hav it in the 180mm travel setting and i can climb 6 miles and not be any more tired at the top then when i pedal my stump jumper up. I would recommend putting a dual chainring in the front if you want it as an AM rig. Other than that you cn still keep the 180mm or go with a 160mm setup. Just my 2 cents.
    Go out and rid...SHRED

  23. #298
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    yes, I have had no issues


  24. #299
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    Looking back I realized I had never posted a pic of my Voltage! So to keep this thread alive here she is.

    I need to lose some weight on this thing. Currently set up in FR mode with a 180 Domain 318. Switching to the single crown barely helped. Thinking about running an air shock. Anyone running a Vivid or a Vector Air? How are you liking it?

    BTW, Gotfish with the Hammerschmidt. Sick setup! Hows the pedaling with that thing? Are you able to make up some decent climbs? I think my Voltage would get a lot more action if it was easier to pedal up. Iím hoping lightening it up will help.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Scott Voltage FR-voltagejuly.jpg  


  25. #300
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    ALRIGHTY boys and girls (well there aren't too many girls but that is another discussion all on its own.) I recently was able to pickup a 2011 Scott Voltage FR30 that is stock besides Deity riser handlebars and Deity pedals. Anyways here are my questions for those who also ride a Voltage FR and are much more familiar with it than I or bike shops that are dealers of Scott (interestingly enough my local bike shops are not aware that Scott makes the Voltage FR and were no help in answering my questions except in referring me back to Scott and I have gotten from Scott are email replies but have been unable to talk to a technician over the phone.) I know that it happens and the emails have always been answered in just a few hours which is quite good turn around compared to other establishments. So I have been reading through this thread and all of its pages and I find it incredible to see so many different builds on the same bike and love that seeing all of this just gives me more ideas and have a pretty good idea of what I want this bike to accomplish for me.

    "My idea is to have a bike that is aggressive enough for Freeride, DH for fun (not the racing side.) Plus being at least somewhat pedal friendly. I hate to say it especially being a big body size of frame but to have my Voltage be a one quiver bike. I am probably over reaching and should go with a trek scratch or remedy but I ride aggressive enough that I am afraid those bikes just won't quite cut it plus I was able to pickup my bike for an incredibly good price while the other two are astronomically more expensive then what I had spent on my Voltage. So here is the first question on the chopping block that I would like advice or an answer to as talking with bike reps from differing stores and contacting Scott through email I have not been able to get an answer that I fully understand and can move forwards with.

    I wanting to put a Fox DHX 5.0 Air rear shock on my voltage but with all of the different sizes and options to choose from with the plethora of Fox items and different sizes and other details, I am not sure what would actually work on my bike with both the shocks measurements and what I want the bike to do. In the end I am wanting a Freeride bike that is pedal friendly. I will be sticking with a single crown bike and will be upgrading the stock fork to a Fox 180mm but another question to this is looking at my headset it has it listed as the following "FSA Orbit E 1.5R, alloy cups 1.5ď Reducer to 11/8ď, semi-integrated" with that being known will I have to get a tapered steer tube from 1.5 to 1 1/8? From my understanding I will but I just wanted to make sure before purchasing any additional items. I also am wanting a flat bar as I used a flat bar that was 31" on my dirt jumper and loved how it felt and just wanted some advice of what brand of flat bar would be a good choice? Currently I am leaning towards raceface myself but just wanted some more help with that for someone who was using a flat bar. There is a whole lot more that I am wanting advice, encouragement, and help on but for now I won't burn anyone's brain out of their head and just leave it at that.

    Thanks."

    So here is what I posted on pinkbike but got no responses so please help. I like the idea of running a Talas fork with the option of running 180mm or 140mm. But otherwise my problem right now has to do with the rear shock as I am wanting to throw on a fox DHX 5.0 or a fox float CTD. I am just not sure with the different sizes of the rear shocks so I thought I would ask all of you. The shock mounts on the bike are the stock ones from the factory. Hopefully that gives you an idea of what size of shock I will need. Any help is greatly appreciated and I hope that my post will keep this alive as the Voltage FR has lived on into 2013!

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