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  1. #1
    slap-tanker
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    Removing Spark suspension pivot

    Hi

    I am servicing the suspension pivots on my Spark 30 and everything has come apart quite nicely except for the pivot connecting the chain stays to the seat tube, i.e the pivot just above the bottom bracket. Does anyone have any tips on how to extract it?

    The others came out using a G-clamp as a press. The problem with the remaining one is that the stays cannot be removed before the pivot and this means that the surface which the clamp must counter-push against is uneven. Is there a special tool for this pivot?

    Any help would be most welcome.

    Thanks

    PS. yes, I have tried hitting it with a mallet.
    In the UK? Try these routes in the Peak District:

    http://www.brassington.org/new_site/...ike_routes.htm

  2. #2
    slap-tanker
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    I also managed to break the bolt at the rear end of the shock and luckily found exact replacements (steel 12.9 grade, M6 x 35mm with 24mm of thread, zinc coated).

    Has anyone had success replacing the shock bolts with stainless or titanium?
    In the UK? Try these routes in the Peak District:

    http://www.brassington.org/new_site/...ike_routes.htm

  3. #3
    slap-tanker
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    Managed to extract the offending pivot using the G-clamp as a press. I had to make a tool to fit the uneven shape of the drive side and used that to counter-push off. Let's hope it all goes back together a bit more easily...

    I also bought two 50mm M6 titanium bolts to use at either end of the shock. I'll cut them down to 35mm and give them a whirl. Will report back with a yay or nay on this one.
    In the UK? Try these routes in the Peak District:

    http://www.brassington.org/new_site/...ike_routes.htm

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by tank-slapper
    Managed to extract the offending pivot using the G-clamp as a press. I had to make a tool to fit the uneven shape of the drive side and used that to counter-push off. Let's hope it all goes back together a bit more easily...

    I also bought two 50mm M6 titanium bolts to use at either end of the shock. I'll cut them down to 35mm and give them a whirl. Will report back with a yay or nay on this one.

    You may put it into freezer for half of an hour… before assembling

    Good Job, tank-slapper! Apparently you are pioneer in this field. I am especially interested in, I’ve just bought new SPARK frameset, surely will need some overhoul next season

  5. #5
    proshopers
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    Smile Spark 20 bearing replacement

    Hi - How did you remove the two bearings that fit into the end of the seat stays and join the bottom of the rear shock linkage - I replaced the ones at the top of the linkage that sit in the top tube by being brave with my favourite tool (hammer) but chickened out of using the same method on the lower bearings. My bike has a very slight knock/rattle when you lift the saddle up and down, replacing the upper bearings improved things so I am sure that the problem is the lower bearings unless you know different.

  6. #6
    slap-tanker
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    Quote Originally Posted by proshopers
    Hi - How did you remove the two bearings that fit into the end of the seat stays and join the bottom of the rear shock linkage - I replaced the ones at the top of the linkage that sit in the top tube by being brave with my favourite tool (hammer) but chickened out of using the same method on the lower bearings. My bike has a very slight knock/rattle when you lift the saddle up and down, replacing the upper bearings improved things so I am sure that the problem is the lower bearings unless you know different.
    Screw a bolt into one side of the pivot and place a socket/tube against the aluminium insert surrounding the bearing on the other side. The socket needs to be big enough to allow the bearing to fit inside. Then slowly press out the pivot using a G-clamp or vice (easier). This pushes out the pivot with one of the bearings still attached. Remove the bearing by gently prising it off with a flat-bladed scredriver. The second bearing still in the frame can be pushed out with a large bolt and the same socket as before.

    Hammering these bearings out is definitely not to be recommended with a carbon frame!
    In the UK? Try these routes in the Peak District:

    http://www.brassington.org/new_site/...ike_routes.htm

  7. #7
    slap-tanker
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    Everything is back together now, with new bearings (Enduro MAX) and new titanium bolts and lots of Slick Honey for the shock.

    What a difference! Very nice and smooth now, can hardly feel the bumps anymore.

    This was a job well worth doing, but I hope I don't have to do it too often.
    In the UK? Try these routes in the Peak District:

    http://www.brassington.org/new_site/...ike_routes.htm

  8. #8
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    whats 'slick honey'?

  9. #9
    slap-tanker
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    In the UK? Try these routes in the Peak District:

    http://www.brassington.org/new_site/...ike_routes.htm

  10. #10
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    oh righto. cheers

  11. #11
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    bumping an old thread. does anyone know how to just remove the lower pivot without removing the bearings. Do you just screw in a screw on the non drive side and tape out the bushing/pivot towards the drive side? I need to replace my chainstay however my bearings are fine so I won't need to replace those.
    3po armorless, the first weight weenie.

  12. #12
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    For fluidity of the thread, I ended up putting a screw into the non drive side and tapped out the bushing to the drive side rather easily. To reinstall this bushing, I first pushed in by hand the bushing towards the non drive side and then using the same screw however this time with a washer, I tightened the screw down and this pulled everything tight. I then tightened down the screws of the lower chainstay to lock them in position. No creaks and a successful lower rear swing arm replacement.
    3po armorless, the first weight weenie.

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