Help me. I am trying very hard to enjoy my new 2012 Spark 10, and failing!
Let me be clear, I was hoping to use this bike with its 120mm of travel for more "all-mountain" type riding, including some big races (annadel, downieville, etc) on rougher terrain.
Out of the gate, things felt way too hard/harsh. I felt every single bump on the trail and going down fast chattery trails was hardtail painful almost.
Noticed that the rear shock was horribly stiff, even at the recommended psi. Strangely, it seemed to not compress well when the rebound was anywhere slower than the middle. Almost like having the rebound slow is equivalent to having the "compression" set to very slow/resistant. When I flipped it to 1/3 of the way towards fast rebound, I could actually bounce it nicely. This is not how I expected a shock to work. I've only owned Fox stuff in the past. Mind you, the rear shock did GREAT when pumped up around 110psi for climbing I felt that was too much. Unfortunately under 100psi and now its too bouncy, even in "lock-out".
The fork was a mess. The shop didn't set it up, I should have had that all done there, so it was real stiff and rough. Great when locked out and climbing but total junk otherwise. Did some reading online and finally got the pressure where I want it I think.
I tweaked with the SID RLT3, finally I have it set around -90/+75 and the Nude2 shock I have around 90psi. I weigh about 180.
So what I'd like to hear, and hope to hear, is that this fork and shock will eventually become smoother. I am always hearing how "buttery smooth" the RockShox stuff is but I have yet to experience something of the sort on any of their forks.
Hopefully when I take it into the shop for an initial follow-up, we can sort it all out. I would expect more, however, from a $5000+ bike, right off the bat. :confused:
The Scott Spark isn't an "All Mountain" bike. It's more race/trail bike.
If you want to have more confidence with some gnarly downhill stuff or want a bike that can handle some tougher jumps and landings then you should've gotten the Scott Genius LT.
I know this doesn't help your situation but I just want you to know that your bike isn't an all mountain. Sure any bike can go anywhere but how fast, hard and confident does depend on the particular bike you ride.
As for your rear suspension issues you might want to consider swapping the nude2 with a fox suspension. If that is you don't mind the cost.
Yeah I guess I meant "trail bike". I don't mind a slightly harsher trail bike, just didn't expect the spanish inquisition. I mean come on, 120mm of travel, how bout absorbing something? :)
I honestly find it a little hard to believe the Spark 10 carbon bike feels that way. Just out of curiosity did you buy this bike online or through your LBS? For a bike of that caliber you didn't demo it before you bought it? (well these bikes are very hard to find)
I would take it to a shop and get it checked out. You might just have a bad bike. The rock shox and the nude2 rear shock shouldn't be that bad.
Yeah got it locally from the LBS on clearance. I am going to get a real/true fitting and adjustment this coming weekend.
That being said, I'm already looking into replacing the suspension equipment possibly. I found an RP23 with 7.5" eye-to-eye and 2" stroke, which will probably do the trick. I already have this on my old Trance X0 and Propedal #2 seems to do an excellent job. Also have an F120 with remote lockout that I may put on the front, also on my old Trance now.
Anyway, thanks for the input. I realize these bikes are rare and with all the sweet bling I could not pass it up for the price they were selling it.
Hope it turns out well so you can be happy with your new ride. How much did you end up getting the bike for if you don't mind me asking?
I think the best way for you to enjoy it is to give it to me and see the smile on my face. :D
I had a hard time setting mine up as well.
The key for me was just to accept that I had to run the rebound damping 0-3 clicks from full open for the bike to work at all. Once set there I think that the suspension works pretty well, albeit a little bit wallowy. A little more air pressure resolved that (at recommended pressure now).
It's also possible that the cable from your TwinLock lever to the shock is too tight. Disconnect it to see if the suspension feels more plush (it defaults to the long travel mode). The suspension IS stiff in the middle setting, something I love coming off a hardtail. The 2013 bikes are suppused to be a little more plush in the middle setting.
I run a Sid XX on my bike as I didn't like the middle setting Scott uses on the forks for the Sparks. So mine is just full travel/locked.
I really feel I get the best out of this bike at the recommended pressures and with the damping on the light side.
Paid 3500 for the bike.
Originally Posted by LiquidSpin
There are a couple things I need to do before making any more judgements - such as converting to Stans and lowering the air pressure, getting a fit at the LBS, getting some ESI grips on there asap, among others. WE'll see.
Couple things come to mind. First, make sure there is no tension on the twinlock cables when in full or half mode. If the cables have any tension when twinlock is released it is fouling the suspension. Second, don't think in terms of how many PSI you think you need. Honestly, PSI is irrelevant. You want to set sag. I never look at pressure, only look sag. Then you can fine tune from there. Third, get fitted before you buy. There is nothing more tiring or uncomfortable than riding a poor fitting bike. As far as the shock becoming butter smooth, it will take a few long rough rides to break it in.
OK some rides and races done and have the following to add:
-converted to stans so now more comfortable running lower pressure in the tires - definitely helps with small bump compliance
-As for the fork, still not sold on it. Seems like there is a trade-off: either you put a lot of air so when you lock it out it doesnt bob, or you put less air than recommended so you actually get more than 50% of the travel on harder hits. If I make it smooth, it wont lock out at all.. squishy as all hell. (Note I have a Fox f120 with remote lockout and well, it locks out)
-In regards to the shock, this is still unacceptable. I noticed when the rebound knob is towards the slow rebound side, it is hard to compress and makes the ride very rough. I thought this was for rebound, not compression? hello? And of course when the knob is towards a fast rebound, it compresses too easily and the lockout doesnt really work. So the shock is no good really.
Basically the entire concept of full, on-the-fly lockout does not exist for this bike and if it was any other product I would want to return it for a refund to be honest. since I doubt this will be possible, my next steps will be to most likely replace the shock with an RP23 and the fork with an F120 with lockout.
I love the concept of this bike, but in actuality it can't live up to it. That being said, most of the parts are top notch and still a good deal if you can get it for about 2000 off or something like that.
Sorry about all the negativity but I like to be honest about these things. Going to make some upgrades and will post again if those changes make a difference. :)
You need to take this to someone that knows how to set it up. I have a spark 29r and a demo truck from Scott showed up at our local trails. my gf was trying out some bikes and all the others were gone so I got to demo the Drivers personal Spark and his choice was the 26" with 120mm of travel. I couldn't believe how plush it was and still took some big hits. I wish I could get my 29r set up that nice! but I mostly xc race mine so its not that big of a deal. I do agree the main thing that bothers me is when in lockout the rear shock is a bit bouncy.
wrong bike for your intended purposes?
Hey NB! Have you sorted out your bike? I'm sorry to hear you're not happy with it. I fiddled with mine and I think I made it worse for a while. I could never get the fork to lock out. It still moves too much when in the locked-out setting. Now I have a bigger problem in that it won't stay in the locked out position, so now I need to order a new TwinLoc lever. Mine has too much play and it slips out back down to the short travel setting. Which position do you have the rear shock bolt? That makes a HUGE difference in how this bike handles. One way is a very aggressive XC bike and the other makes the front feel light and flickable. Odd how it can make such a huge change with such a small adjustment.
If the fork doesn't lock out when in "Lock out" mode it's time to get it fixed. haha
One thing to keep in mind though. "Lock out' mode isn't 100% locked out. It does give way a little but not much if it hits something hard. The reason for this is to ensure the fork doesn't break.
I've been riding my 2012 Genius and I've never had an issue with the fork or the remote. When I climb I lock out, unless the trail is rooty and rocky, I'll switch to traction mode. When I know I'm going downhill with a lot of roots and rocks I put it on full travel. This is great when I take it to a DH Park near where I live.
To me this is the best ride ever because I can take it on any trail. Depending on the trail conditions all I need to do is swap out the tires.
If you're having issues with it then it's time to get it serviced via an authorized Scott repair shop.