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  1. #1
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    CTD shock on Spark?

    The Fox suspension website has a picture of a Scott Spark with an iCD shock on it. There is also a video where Geoff Kabush talks about how much he loves it. Has anybody swapped the nude shock on the Spark for a Fox CTD (electronic or mechanical)? The reviews of the CTD have been very positive, just wondering how it compares to the nude shock.

  2. #2
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    I would imagine it would feel good. I would contact Scott though for a recommendation of the exact model they would use.

    Erik

  3. #3
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    In the cyclingnews review of the Spark RC they mention swapping to a Fox and said it solved the DT shocks lack of small bump compliance. I just purchased a Spark RC frame and will consider going with a Fox CTD depending on how the DT serves me once spring comes. It looks like they run ~$400 new but have been watching the mtbr classifieds and people frequently post near new shocks in the $200 range.

    Review is here: Scott Spark 29 RC Long-term Review | Cyclingnews.com

  4. #4
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    I wonder if you could get a Fox CTD remote rear shock to work with the twinloc switch. I wouldn't mind swapping out my 5 year old DT nude for one of the new Fox shocks.

  5. #5
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    You can use fox remote lever, it will fork with fox fork and shock: CTD Explained | New for 2013 | Bike | FOX

  6. #6
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    I consider about the same; swapping the stock Nude 2 shock on my 2012 29 Pro to a 2013 Fox Float CTD Rear MTB Shock Remote Lockout. I'm wondering as well if the standard Twinloc handle would suit the Fox Shock handling...
    If anybody can clear that up it would make me very happy.

  7. #7
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    I have just swapped my DT shock on my 2012 29er for my 6 year old Float RP2 off an old bike. The difference was night and day. I have chopped off the remote cables and will never use DT shocks again. Mine wouldnt lock out after a years use and had horrible feel. The fox with propedal on has no pedal bob yet still soaks up bumps, propedal off is plush plush plush descending. When I can afford a new Fox I will go for it, I wont worry about remotes again. This was my main gripe with the spark like many others. Problem solved at no cost=happy wife!

  8. #8
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    I've looked into it enough to learn that Fox does not make a 6.5" long x 1.5" stroke CTD shock with Boost Valve. Apparently they may have been made for some OEM applications in this size but they are not available for purchase aftermarket. So the potential CTD shocks for the 2nd gen Spark are the base Float CTD model or the Float CTD Remote model. I didn't look into the iCTD any more than learning it costs mega bux ($1000+) and I don't think you can even buy one right now anyway.

    I'm thinking of getting one of the two CTD options. I think I'd prefer the remote shock but I'm not all that interested in using the gargantuan Fox lockout lever. No word on if the twinlock lever will work for it and I doubt anyone can say if it will work without just trying it. I may just order the CTD Remote shock and see if it works. If it doesn't I'll return it and get the standard CTD shock. Price difference is $375 vs $395 so not much incentive there. The Fox lockout lever runs $80 though so if the twinlock lever doesn't work, you'd be spending $100 extra between the added shock cost and the lever.

  9. #9
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    I just put a CTD remote on the 2013 Spark. It sort of works with the Scott lever, but you have to change the small removable disc in the lever from the NUDE2 one to the FOX one which should be available from Scott. But, it takes a TON of force on the lever to switch it into the 3rd position. I talked to the service manager at fox and he said their Twinloc will work better than the Scott since it has a much longer lever and definitely pulls the correct amount of cable (He was dubious that the Scott lever had the correct pull radius even with the Fox inserts)

    So, sounds like your best bet is to buy the Fox lever or to go with the standard CTD with the switch. An added bonus of the CTD shock is that it can be mounted upside-down which actually leaves room for a large water bottle in the cage! (gasp)

  10. #10
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    Thanks man. Super helpful info. You just saved me a week of time and the hassle of having to pay shipping both ways. I think I'm just going to go with the std CTD shock and just deal with using the manual lever on the shock body.

    I have yet to even get my bike out a single time, but slowkini's review has convinced me that the Nude2 shock is going to suck. I may as well just swap shocks now since I think that where I will end up anyway. Then I can truthfully list the DT for sale and say it's never seen use.

    Were you able to transfer over the eyelet hardware from your DT shock or did Fox provide you with eyelet hardware that fit the Spark?

  11. #11
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    Actually, I have it set up now with the Scott lever (with the Fox inserts), and it seems to be working correctly. I will compare once the Fox lever comes in. You'll need the mounting hardware too, it's the 6x22.2 mm spacers on both sides.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by zzzman20 View Post
    Actually, I have it set up now with the Scott lever (with the Fox inserts), and it seems to be working correctly. I will compare once the Fox lever comes in. You'll need the mounting hardware too, it's the 6x22.2 mm spacers on both sides.
    Couple more questions. What "disc" did you swap? The one bolted to the bottom of the Twinlock and intended to be used for different forks (i.e. the one in the picture)? Or did you swap out the main lever that currently controls the rear shock?
    <a href="http://s1112.photobucket.com/user/dqvale/media/2013%20Scott%20Spark%20RC/Twinlock_Lever_zpsfe5e1491.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k496/dqvale/2013%20Scott%20Spark%20RC/Twinlock_Lever_zpsfe5e1491.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Twinlock_Lever_zpsfe5e1491.jpg"/></a>

    I contacted Scott and they knew nothing. Said they had no idea if you could control a Fox rear shock with their lever. Kind of odd since I'm sure it has been tried by them. Perhaps I just didn't get in touch with the right person.

    So would you say that the Scott Twinlock works ok or not? Earlier you said it takes a ton of force. Is it still ok or would you say it is simply too much and it doesn't really work?

    Are the spacers you mention for the shock the ones that come with the Fox shock? Or are they something you had to get independently?

    Thanks

  13. #13
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    Seems Scott has a longer Twinlock lever now. I got an early 2013 Spark 910 in September. Had to warranty the lever this month and it was a little different. Longer lever. I'm now seeing it on the Genius.definitely makes the throw easier. I clicked a lot before and feel like I'm using it more now. Maybe the new version will help you.

  14. #14
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    So has anyone replaced the Nude on a newer (2012) Spark? Trying to figure out which bushings I need for both the front and rear eyelets. Are they the same as the old Spark models?

    I called Fox and they were actually mostly not knowledgeable so back to the forums.

  15. #15
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    Hi there, i'm also interested to change the m210 that came with my spark 60 2012, and i dont want the CTD, because i dont want to spend that much, but i want a rp23, and i want to know what tuning is the best for the spark geometry, i like to descend fast and on rough soil, and i'm a bit tired of the stiffness of the m210, and i want it more smooth and plush, but fox has so many options of tuning, velocity, rebound, boost valve...

    Can someone tell me some tips for the right tunning for my needs?

  16. #16
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    Isnt possible to replace the Dt Swiss for a Rear Fox Float with iCD to use the twinlock system ?

  17. #17
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    Bumping this thread. I'm contacting Scott to see if we can get a retrofit 2014 Fox shock to replace the DT Swiss shock.

    Erik

  18. #18
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    Interested to contacted scott to see if I could change the nude 2 on my genius 2013 but didnt return my email has anyone done the change on the genius to fox ctd?
    the 2014 scott lineup all come with fox rear shock now.

  19. #19
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    The 2014 Sparks will come with a "Special Edition" of Fox Shock, it will be called Fox NUDE. Ive contacted Scott and the Bike Shop that build my bike. They told me it will not be possible to buy this Fox NUDE as a Aftermarket product to install in 2013 Sparks for example. I dont know why.
    They also told me that if buying a Fox CTD 2013 Shock to install in 2013 Spark replacing the DT Nude Shock may not work with the Twinloc System because the cable pull of the Fox is different from the custom Dt Nude2 Shock.

    I also wanted to replace the dt for a Fox CTD, but considering the information that i received, i guess the best option is stay with the Dt Nude 2.

  20. #20
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    Anyone ask them if is possible to put other shock and still use the chip in low position? It wont hit the link?

    And someone can help me with the #15 post..?

  21. #21
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    Fox no longer makes the RP23, they are all rep,laced with CTD.

    Fox offers an inexpensive rear shock which is just a simple CTD rear shock for $320 retail

    When ordering, ask for 6.5"x1.5" rear shock. This is for 29ers only. Hardware mounts are 22mmx6mm.

  22. #22
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    How about the genius what rear shock will fit? anyone?

  23. #23
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    yes, any info on fox replacement for genius 710 would be much appreciated. thank you.

  24. #24
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    My lbs said to me that maybee scott woulb be able to sell the fox for replacement

    Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 4

  25. #25
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    I took the plunge and did it. For 2014 they are selling the 6.5 x 1.5 CTD with the Boost Valve and Trail Adjust features. I believe in 2013 you couldn't get either option in this size shock. I ordered through Pro Bike Supply and they supplied reducers with it. Unfortunately the packaging didn't label what size they were and so I can't give advice on that. But suffice it to say you will need the proper ones since the Nude 2 ones won't fit. Weight of the shock with the bushing reducers was 216 g.

    <a href="http://s1112.photobucket.com/user/dqvale/media/2013%20Scott%20Spark%20RC/IMG_0176_zpsc08984c5.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k496/dqvale/2013%20Scott%20Spark%20RC/IMG_0176_zpsc08984c5.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0176_zpsc08984c5.jpg"/></a>

    <a href="http://s1112.photobucket.com/user/dqvale/media/2013%20Scott%20Spark%20RC/IMG_0171_zps6e6d0e78.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k496/dqvale/2013%20Scott%20Spark%20RC/IMG_0171_zps6e6d0e78.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0171_zps6e6d0e78.jpg"/></a>

    I went back and forth a lot on if I should get the remote version or not. I liked using the remote on the Nude 2 but didn't want the big honkin Fox lever if I went with the CTD. Sounded like maybe the Scott lever could be used with the Fox shock but it would be incredibly stiff. In the end I didn't get the remote version and I'm happy with that. I've got a much cleaner bar top as a result. I can say that with the CTD you just don't need the remote as much as with the Nude 2. With the DT shock I was using it quite a bit. With the CTD I just set it in the Trail position and that is good for the majority of the time.

    Overall I like all 3 positions on the CTD shock better than the corresponding positions on the DT. The "lockout" on the CTD isn't locked out. It's just very stiff compression damping. It works better for typical offroad situations when I want things stiffened up. I felt like the lockout on the DT was intended for pavement or something. It was completely locked out which is just something I never really need. I'd lock it out when riding up a fireroad or when doing a 10 second uphill sprint but even a fireroad felt better with some compliance. And as for the 10 sec sprint, leaving the CTD in the middle position works fairly well anyway.

    The middle position on the CTD is way more active than any position on the DT shock. It works very well for rocky uphill and it also works very well for rocky downhill. The D (third) position on the CTD is also better than the fully open position on the DT though I don't even bother with it unless I'm doing a lengthy downhill with almost no pedaling required. The whole DT shock just feels very crudely controlled in comparison to the Fox. It works, but the CTD feels superior virtually all the time.

    I was really really really on the fence over getting the remote vs non-remote version. I loved the ability to use the remote on the DT shock with both my 1st gen Spark and my 2nd gen one. But the non-remote Fox shock is available with the trail adjust (3 sub settings when in T) while the remote version isn't. That hideous Fox remote lever is what pushed me over the edge to avoid the remote version and I'm happy with the decision. With this Fox shock, I just don't need the remote like I did with the DT. On a 1 hr loop around my house I maybe switched between positions every 3-5 min with the DT shock. With the Fox I maybe do it once. It just isn't needed since the shock seems to work so much better when in the middle position. Stiff when you want it to be, compliant when you don't. And for the most part, it does it all on its own.

    The shock cost was a bundle ($450). Not sure if it was worth that much or not. But I can say it works better than the Nude 2 hands down. Now that I got it and the bill is paid, I'm glad I got it. I was really happy with my Spark before this change but now I like it even more. Hopefully this insight gives some of you the info you need to make a decision either way. If it were $250-300 I'd say the swap is a no brainer. Since it's above that cost, it completely depends. I can see going either way. The bike works well with the DT shock, it just works better with the CTD.

  26. #26
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    CTD shock on Spark?

    Great post. How did you know what reducers to order with the shock?

    Erik

  27. #27
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    Nice if only anyone done the conversion on a genius 700 !!!

    Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 4

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by bedell99 View Post
    How did you know what reducers to order with the shock?
    The bolt is a 6 mm and I believe the bushing width is 0.874". Those are the two relevant measurements my research turned up, but I'm not 100% positive since I didn't end up having to specify them when ordering. With Pro Bike Supply I just had to specify the frame and they send the appropriate reducers for free with the shock. The packaging didn't label their size.

  29. #29
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    Re: CTD shock on Spark?

    Quote Originally Posted by E46_M3 View Post
    I took the plunge and did it. For 2014 they are selling the 6.5 x 1.5 CTD with the Boost Valve and Trail Adjust features. I believe in 2013 you couldn't get either option in this size shock. I ordered through Pro Bike Supply and they supplied reducers with it. Unfortunately the packaging didn't label what size they were and so I can't give advice on that. But suffice it to say you will need the proper ones since the Nude 2 ones won't fit. Weight of the shock with the bushing reducers was 216 g.

    <a href="http://s1112.photobucket.com/user/dqvale/media/2013%20Scott%20Spark%20RC/IMG_0176_zpsc08984c5.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k496/dqvale/2013%20Scott%20Spark%20RC/IMG_0176_zpsc08984c5.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0176_zpsc08984c5.jpg"/></a>

    <a href="http://s1112.photobucket.com/user/dqvale/media/2013%20Scott%20Spark%20RC/IMG_0171_zps6e6d0e78.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k496/dqvale/2013%20Scott%20Spark%20RC/IMG_0171_zps6e6d0e78.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0171_zps6e6d0e78.jpg"/></a>

    I went back and forth a lot on if I should get the remote version or not. I liked using the remote on the Nude 2 but didn't want the big honkin Fox lever if I went with the CTD. Sounded like maybe the Scott lever could be used with the Fox shock but it would be incredibly stiff. In the end I didn't get the remote version and I'm happy with that. I've got a much cleaner bar top as a result. I can say that with the CTD you just don't need the remote as much as with the Nude 2. With the DT shock I was using it quite a bit. With the CTD I just set it in the Trail position and that is good for the majority of the time.

    Overall I like all 3 positions on the CTD shock better than the corresponding positions on the DT. The "lockout" on the CTD isn't locked out. It's just very stiff compression damping. It works better for typical offroad situations when I want things stiffened up. I felt like the lockout on the DT was intended for pavement or something. It was completely locked out which is just something I never really need. I'd lock it out when riding up a fireroad or when doing a 10 second uphill sprint but even a fireroad felt better with some compliance. And as for the 10 sec sprint, leaving the CTD in the middle position works fairly well anyway.

    The middle position on the CTD is way more active than any position on the DT shock. It works very well for rocky uphill and it also works very well for rocky downhill. The D (third) position on the CTD is also better than the fully open position on the DT though I don't even bother with it unless I'm doing a lengthy downhill with almost no pedaling required. The whole DT shock just feels very crudely controlled in comparison to the Fox. It works, but the CTD feels superior virtually all the time.

    I was really really really on the fence over getting the remote vs non-remote version. I loved the ability to use the remote on the DT shock with both my 1st gen Spark and my 2nd gen one. But the non-remote Fox shock is available with the trail adjust (3 sub settings when in T) while the remote version isn't. That hideous Fox remote lever is what pushed me over the edge to avoid the remote version and I'm happy with the decision. With this Fox shock, I just don't need the remote like I did with the DT. On a 1 hr loop around my house I maybe switched between positions every 3-5 min with the DT shock. With the Fox I maybe do it once. It just isn't needed since the shock seems to work so much better when in the middle position. Stiff when you want it to be, compliant when you don't. And for the most part, it does it all on its own.

    The shock cost was a bundle ($450). Not sure if it was worth that much or not. But I can say it works better than the Nude 2 hands down. Now that I got it and the bill is paid, I'm glad I got it. I was really happy with my Spark before this change but now I like it even more. Hopefully this insight gives some of you the info you need to make a decision either way. If it were $250-300 I'd say the swap is a no brainer. Since it's above that cost, it completely depends. I can see going either way. The bike works well with the DT shock, it just works better with the CTD.
    Hey how did you no what shock to get sv, lv or xv
    And hoy did you tune it on the scott?

    Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 4

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by zzzman20 View Post
    Actually, I have it set up now with the Scott lever (with the Fox inserts), and it seems to be working correctly. I will compare once the Fox lever comes in. You'll need the mounting hardware too, it's the 6x22.2 mm spacers on both sides.
    Yea I'd like to hear a little more detail on this, how it turned out etc, maybe some pictures. It sounds like you cracked it, it shouldn't be impossible by any means.

    And I don't get any warm-fuzzy from Scott at all regarding obtaining a 2014 FOX NUDE shock/lockout mechanism. They're worried about building/selling 2014 bikes right now, I understand that. But these parts have to be available through some channel as replacement parts eventually, right???

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by E46_M3 View Post
    I took the plunge and did it. For 2014 they are selling the 6.5 x 1.5 CTD with the Boost Valve and Trail Adjust features. I believe in 2013 you couldn't get either option in this size shock. I ordered through Pro Bike Supply and they supplied reducers with it. Unfortunately the packaging didn't label what size they were and so I can't give advice on that. But suffice it to say you will need the proper ones since the Nude 2 ones won't fit. Weight of the shock with the bushing reducers was 216 g.

    <a href="http://s1112.photobucket.com/user/dqvale/media/2013%20Scott%20Spark%20RC/IMG_0176_zpsc08984c5.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k496/dqvale/2013%20Scott%20Spark%20RC/IMG_0176_zpsc08984c5.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0176_zpsc08984c5.jpg"/></a>

    <a href="http://s1112.photobucket.com/user/dqvale/media/2013%20Scott%20Spark%20RC/IMG_0171_zps6e6d0e78.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k496/dqvale/2013%20Scott%20Spark%20RC/IMG_0171_zps6e6d0e78.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0171_zps6e6d0e78.jpg"/></a>

    I went back and forth a lot on if I should get the remote version or not. I liked using the remote on the Nude 2 but didn't want the big honkin Fox lever if I went with the CTD. Sounded like maybe the Scott lever could be used with the Fox shock but it would be incredibly stiff. In the end I didn't get the remote version and I'm happy with that. I've got a much cleaner bar top as a result. I can say that with the CTD you just don't need the remote as much as with the Nude 2. With the DT shock I was using it quite a bit. With the CTD I just set it in the Trail position and that is good for the majority of the time.

    Overall I like all 3 positions on the CTD shock better than the corresponding positions on the DT. The "lockout" on the CTD isn't locked out. It's just very stiff compression damping. It works better for typical offroad situations when I want things stiffened up. I felt like the lockout on the DT was intended for pavement or something. It was completely locked out which is just something I never really need. I'd lock it out when riding up a fireroad or when doing a 10 second uphill sprint but even a fireroad felt better with some compliance. And as for the 10 sec sprint, leaving the CTD in the middle position works fairly well anyway.

    The middle position on the CTD is way more active than any position on the DT shock. It works very well for rocky uphill and it also works very well for rocky downhill. The D (third) position on the CTD is also better than the fully open position on the DT though I don't even bother with it unless I'm doing a lengthy downhill with almost no pedaling required. The whole DT shock just feels very crudely controlled in comparison to the Fox. It works, but the CTD feels superior virtually all the time.

    I was really really really on the fence over getting the remote vs non-remote version. I loved the ability to use the remote on the DT shock with both my 1st gen Spark and my 2nd gen one. But the non-remote Fox shock is available with the trail adjust (3 sub settings when in T) while the remote version isn't. That hideous Fox remote lever is what pushed me over the edge to avoid the remote version and I'm happy with the decision. With this Fox shock, I just don't need the remote like I did with the DT. On a 1 hr loop around my house I maybe switched between positions every 3-5 min with the DT shock. With the Fox I maybe do it once. It just isn't needed since the shock seems to work so much better when in the middle position. Stiff when you want it to be, compliant when you don't. And for the most part, it does it all on its own.

    The shock cost was a bundle ($450). Not sure if it was worth that much or not. But I can say it works better than the Nude 2 hands down. Now that I got it and the bill is paid, I'm glad I got it. I was really happy with my Spark before this change but now I like it even more. Hopefully this insight gives some of you the info you need to make a decision either way. If it were $250-300 I'd say the swap is a no brainer. Since it's above that cost, it completely depends. I can see going either way. The bike works well with the DT shock, it just works better with the CTD.
    No big deal about the remote for the rear if it's a 2014 CTD. I called Fox because I'm getting a new bike & on my list is the Salsa Spearfish 1 it had the CTD fork and rear shock but no remote and I no likely reaching off the bars in long races (well at anytime I'm getting too old) when I'm getting tired I forget to take it out of PP on the bike I have now it's also a SF1 a 2012 and when I bought it I almost got a Spark. So any how I called Fox to see if I could put a remote on the 2014 fork, I told him that I knew that I would have to sell the CTD shock that comes on the SF1 and I'm over that I have already called you guys back in 2012 to see if you had a kit for my RP2 and the answer was NO! you have to buy a new rear shock and I did it was a RS X/Lock.

    So here is what the good people at Fox told me the other day 1st. we have a new CTD remote lever (3 way) the big lever is no more.. 2nd. yes all you have to do is buy the new remote lever $ 80.00 I think it might come with a new top cap? (Universal Cycles has them link below) and 3rd. the guy told me that they are down in the shop right now working on a remote kit so that if you have a 2014 rear CTD shock that is none remote you can make it into one I thought wow that's cool but now I keep going back and forth Spearfish or the Spark.
    Universal Cycles -- Fox CTD Remote Lever

  32. #32
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    It's a no brainer CTD any day. I just got a 2013 Spark Premium but didnt like it at all, it was just to hard and was just about to go back to my Superfly 100. But got a goog deal on ebay on a 2014 CTD w/Boost Valve $270 out of a scalpel. I called fox and they told me they had the same specs 6.5x1.5 and order the hardware 6mmx22.2 and its amazing like night and day. Its a conmplete different bike.

  33. #33
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    I just converted a 2014 fox ctd fork to a remote and installed a 14 ctd remote shock. I called probike supply and they didn't have an option for the 6 x 22.2 hardware. They said they couldn't get it but said the 21.84 kit would work because it is extremely close. The part # is 803-03-143. The only problem I've run into is the shock makes contact with the frame link in the low position. I'm going to have to file the rear link to make it work. Haven't taken the bike out on the trail yet but I'm hoping for a much improved ride. I can try to post some pics if anyone wants to see what the install looks like.

  34. #34
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    Re: CTD shock on Spark?

    CTD shock on Spark?-uploadfromtaptalk1391814883012.jpg
    Just finish mi bike havent been able to take it out for a spin but i bet it would feel better than the dt swiss crap!!

    Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

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    I have 2014 Scott Spark 710 with Fox Nude rear shock and Fox 32 fork connected to Scott's Twinloc remote lever. Unfortunately, when I was trying to change layout of the handlebar I applied too much of torque and damaged the clamp. Currently, the remote lever just hangs on the bar and is not fixed. To press the lever I need to use both hands: one to hold the remote system, the other to press the lever. I need a clamp but its either very difficult to find the remote TwinLoc, its very expensive around 65 pounds or its impossible to buy just a clamp rather than whole remote system. Please advise.

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    Only option is get a new Twinloc lever. £65 is hardly expensive when you consider the price of a) the rear shock and b) the complete bike!

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    After running the DT Nude2 for only a month, I too replaced it with a Fox CTD. My set-up is as below:

    2013 FLOAT CTD BV/Kashima/Remote - 250 BV pressure/Velocity Tune L/Rebound Tune M. I also had Mojo (Fox UK service centre) carry out further custom tuning for my weight/riding style. I can say that the Fox is a MASSIVE improvement over the DT Nude 2. I'm also not missing the travel adjust as at only 100mm travel, the change in damping between 'D' and 'C' modes mimics the travel change.

    The shock is being operated by a 2013 Scott Twinloc lever, which is also operating my Fox FLOAT CTD forx. Everything works great and the Twinloc lever toggles through all 3 modes, front+rear fine. If anyone needs to know, the 2013 Twinloc lever pulls 7mm of cable between each mode, front+rear, and which is the same as a 2013 Fox remote lever.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by cws196 View Post
    After running the DT Nude2 for only a month, I too replaced it with a Fox CTD. My set-up is as below:

    2013 FLOAT CTD BV/Kashima/Remote - 250 BV pressure/Velocity Tune L/Rebound Tune M. I also had Mojo (Fox UK service centre) carry out further custom tuning for my weight/riding style. I can say that the Fox is a MASSIVE improvement over the DT Nude 2. I'm also not missing the travel adjust as at only 100mm travel, the change in damping between 'D' and 'C' modes mimics the travel change.

    The shock is being operated by a 2013 Scott Twinloc lever, which is also operating my Fox FLOAT CTD forx. Everything works great and the Twinloc lever toggles through all 3 modes, front+rear fine. If anyone needs to know, the 2013 Twinloc lever pulls 7mm of cable between each mode, front+rear, and which is the same as a 2013 Fox remote lever.
    Could you explain about what u mean about massive improvement (into uphill or descent ... also a detailed comparison betwen D, T and C three CTD mode and the three equivalent DT Nude2 modes)? Also u can refer about your personal characteristics (weight, type of trail riding that u normally do (simple XC trail or difficult AM one ...))?
    Thanks

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by cws196 View Post
    After running the DT Nude2 for only a month, I too replaced it with a Fox CTD. My set-up is as below: 2013 FLOAT CTD BV/Kashima/Remote - 250 BV pressure/Velocity Tune L/Rebound Tune M. I also had Mojo (Fox UK service centre) carry out further custom tuning for my weight/riding style. I can say that the Fox is a MASSIVE improvement over the DT Nude 2. I'm also not missing the travel adjust as at only 100mm travel, the change in damping between 'D' and 'C' modes mimics the travel change. The shock is being operated by a 2013 Scott Twinloc lever, which is also operating my Fox FLOAT CTD forx. Everything works great and the Twinloc lever toggles through all 3 modes, front+rear fine. If anyone needs to know, the 2013 Twinloc lever pulls 7mm of cable between each mode, front+rear, and which is the same as a 2013 Fox remote lever.
    I've actually measured the pulling of my Twinlock 2013 (Nude2 6.5"/1.5" of the my Spark 29 2013) and result exactly 7.5 mm for the TC position and 15 mm for the lockout position. Can you confirm that you have in effect the previously reported values 7+7 mm (ie i have a different twinlock)?

  40. #40
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    In terms of the DT versus the Fox:

    The Nude 2 never felt right to me, in only a month of use. With the travel in the mid setting it felt far too progressive - to my mind the primary air chamber is too small. To make it feel anywhere near like the shock was working, I was dropping air pressure. But when the secondary air chamber was opened (in the max travel setting), the shock/rear end then wallowed because the air pressure was too low.

    In contrast the Fox CTD, the Fox works on damper changes rather than travel changes, and does it all much better. It feels far more supple and compliant, and I don't the miss the travel adjustment at all. It simply works better - the rear end tracks much better, doesn't wallow and never feels 'stunted' as the Nude 2 did.

    I got the rear shock via ebay and had it re-tuned to as stated above. I'm 150kg and ride XC on my Spark.

    In terms of the cable pull, as long as you are using a Scott TwinLoc lever that was previously used with a Nude2, it will work fine. I measure the pull as 7mm, but it could quite as easiley have been 7.5mm, allowing for cable flex etc.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by cws196 View Post
    In terms of the DT versus the Fox: The Nude 2 never felt right to me, in only a month of use. ................. In contrast the Fox CTD, the Fox works on damper changes rather than travel changes, and does it all much better. ..................... I got the rear shock via ebay and had it re-tuned to as stated above. I'm 150kg and ride XC on my Spark. In terms of the cable pull, as long as you are using a Scott TwinLoc lever that was previously used with a Nude2, it will work fine. I measure the pull as 7mm, but it could quite as easiley have been 7.5mm, allowing for cable flex etc.
    Thanks

  42. #42
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    My M210 on my 2012 29 Team is no longer holding air and I think ima upgrade to a fox shock..

    I'm reading through to try and figure out what I need.

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  43. #43
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    The question was never answered about sv, lv or xv?

    Which one is ideal for the Spark 29?
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    Quote Originally Posted by zephxiii View Post
    The question was never answered about sv, lv or xv? Which one is ideal for the Spark 29?
    The Float Factory CTD Remote 165/38 mm 2014/2015 is only made in the sv version. It is fully compatible with the twinlock 2012/2013 pulling (7.2+7.2 mm on the shox cable), but you have to set the frame link in the high position mode, otherwise the shox makes contact with. The hardware supplied in the shox box is 22.2/8 mm, but you need the version 22.2/6 mm. In the trail position the float is very better than nude 2. It is firm to pedaling and at the same time is fully able to copy the ground. In the climb position is firm also to pedaling out of saddle, but is'nt fully locked as nude. It is yet able to copy big impacts. Differently from nude the float dont increase the bike BB height in the climb position as the nude in lock do.

  45. #45
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    Ok, is it the barrel making contact with the linkage?

    heh well i just bit the bullet and ordered the 2014 Float CTD Kashima non-remote.
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    Quote Originally Posted by zephxiii View Post
    Ok, is it the barrel making contact with the linkage?

    heh well i just bit the bullet and ordered the 2014 Float CTD Kashima non-remote.
    No the barrel dont make contact with linkage nor with the frame. It is the shox plunger end that with our edges makes contact with the linkage. But only with the linkage screw set in low position mode.

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by ataro View Post
    No the barrel dont make contact with linkage nor with the frame. It is the shox plunger end that with our edges makes contact with the linkage. But only with the linkage screw set in low position mode.
    And the same thing with the fox nude?

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by darioras View Post
    And the same thing with the fox nude?
    No problems with Nude 2 in both low/high positions (obviously).

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    Quote Originally Posted by ataro View Post
    No problems with Nude 2 in both low/high positions (obviously).
    No sorry, I mean if the shock Fox Nude ctcd (version 2014) mounted on 2012 and 2013 29 spark frames touches the link only in lower position as well as the normal Fox ctd

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by darioras View Post
    No sorry, I mean if the shock Fox Nude ctcd (version 2014) mounted on 2012 and 2013 29 spark frames touches the link only in lower position as well as the normal Fox ctd
    I dont think that the 29 2014 frame is different from 2013. But i've the 2013 and cannot confirm so. From photo of Fox ctcd nude seems that its plunger ends with shape like Nude 2. But the problem are that the ctcd nude are'nt sold without Spark frame.

  51. #51
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    Got mine installed on my 2012 Spark 29 Team:



    The pedaling platform is pretty damn amazing in all modes, even for out of the saddle efforts. The old M210 would wallow significantly when open, but not this shock.

    It's a weird shock though with how it behaves. Like in climb mode it's stiffish until you hit a large bump then it opens up and rides plush.

    Trail mode is kinda confusing. 3 seems ride better than 1. I'm thinking that 1 doesn't have enough compression and I run into the boostvalve too easily so it feels harsh when the boostvalve ramps up? It's hard to figure out what's going on as this shock also seems to 'open up' on a hit which changes how it is riding compared to whatever mode it is set to.

    Slowing rebound seems to make it ride firmer, so that needs to be dialed just right.

    Descend feels pretty good but still has a good platform to pedal on.

    The other thing is that I wish it had more resistance to G-outs, even the little ones.

    I don't know that this shock's tune is though, so I'm not sure if it is ideal for me.
    '12 Scott Spark 29 Team
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  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by zephxiii View Post
    Got mine installed on my 2012 Spark 29 Team:
    My antivirus say that the site http://www.xti9.com is virus infected and the browser dont show the photo.

  53. #53
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    I don't know why it would say that...the home page is the default godaddy one as i never set it up lol. All i have on there are photos and a couple smaller sites.
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    I took the plunge as well. I have taken a ride yet but I am looking forward to it. Specs: 2013 Spark 940, frame size: large.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails CTD shock on Spark?-img_1815.jpg  

    CTD shock on Spark?-img_1816.jpg  

    CTD shock on Spark?-img_1819.jpg  


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    Quote Originally Posted by mwillits View Post
    I took the plunge as well. I have taken a ride yet but I am looking forward to it. Specs: 2013 Spark 940, frame size: large.
    Look well if you have enought clearance between shox plunger edge and frame link (shox on full stroke without air pressure)

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by ataro View Post
    Look well if you have enought clearance between shox plunger edge and frame link (shox on full stroke without air pressure)
    Just went out and verified this. There is enough room and the shock pluger does not touch the frame link on full stroke. Looking at your picture, you definitely have more clearance on the high bb setting. But there is enough clearance on the low bb setting on mine.

  57. #57
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    I also bought this:

    CTD shock on Spark?-x-fusion02.jpg

    A little gem I found for 135. I thought what the hey. If the fox needs service, or if I don't like it I have this. The other thing is I wanted to compare other shocks on it...

    I have to say that O2 impressed me a lot more and faster than the Float did...
    '12 Scott Spark 29 Team
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  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by zephxiii View Post
    I also bought this: Click image for larger version. 

Name:	X-fusion02.jpg 
Views:	1414 
Size:	81.6 KB 
ID:	922682 A little gem I found for 135. I thought what the hey. If the fox needs service, or if I don't like it I have this. The other thing is I wanted to compare other shocks on it... I have to say that O2 impressed me a lot more and faster than the Float did...
    Could you explain why? (a comparison between Fox float (model?) and xfusion (O2 is top version?)?

  59. #59
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    You would have to read this:

    A tale of 2 shocks: Float CTD BV vs. X-Fusion O2 RL

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
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  60. #60
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    I must also note that since neither of my new shocks use a remote, I still have to keep the twinlock on to dial in the unlocked compression on the Recon...otherwise that fork was a divey mess!

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
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  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by zephxiii View Post
    You would have to read this: A tale of 2 shocks: Float CTD BV vs. X-Fusion O2 RL Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
    Thanks

  62. #62
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    Yeah, I've just not been happy with it. Sometimes it feels like it rides good, sometimes I wonder why it feels like 'that'. And then I fiddle around with it, but never really know where it should be. It's kind of a firm feeling shock, and not completely consistent.

    When I put the O2 RL on, it felt dampened in a really nice and controlled manner. It felt like it tracked better and was more consistent. It made me happy and made the bike fun. It's a very good unit even though it is a model that is a few years old.

    I think ultimately I'd prefer an O2 with remote lockout. Or the RCX with the different platform options.

    The problem is I need to replace the Recon because the twinloc is required to set the compression, unless i can remove the spring somehow in the compression dial. But that fork is making a tapping sound in the air spring side and I'm kinda getting tired of it anyways.

    Ultimately I think it would be sweet to match a Slide RL2 (have one on my HT that I like) to the O2 RL.
    '12 Scott Spark 29 Team
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  63. #63
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    For those that want to run LOW mode, it looked like there was plenty of clearance if u mounted it with the main body on the linkage side. I didn't actually try it but it looked like it should work fine.


    I ran the Float again after riding the HT for a bit and I didn't mind it.

    The float had more platform which the Spark needs for pedaling on middle and large rings. It definitely feels like it pedals better.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
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  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by zephxiii View Post
    For those that want to run LOW mode, it looked like there was plenty of clearance if u mounted it with the main body on the linkage side. I didn't actually try it but it looked like it should work fine. I ran the Float again after riding the HT for a bit and I didn't mind it. The float had more platform which the Spark needs for pedaling on middle and large rings. It definitely feels like it pedals better. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
    What u think about the Float CTD in climb position? It seems firm enought, but not as a DT Nude 2 in locked position.

  65. #65
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    I haven't really used Climb mode much. However yes, it does seem to open up a bit easily. I thought it opened up a bit too easily though which made the shock feel kinda inconsistent. It's like, you put it in climb mode, it's firm like it's supposed to be, then suddenly you hit something and it's not in climb mode anymore lol.

    The interesting thing is that the Spark is naturally a very good climber in the small chain ring (especially with a 22t triple) due to the good anti-squat numbers for sitting and spinning. The big ring is where you really could use the Climb mode. I found Trail mode with the firmest setting to be pretty adequate.

    I'm going to be leaving the Float on the Spark for a while for a more long term get to know ya.

    Sadly I am in need of a fork for it bad though
    '12 Scott Spark 29 Team
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  66. #66
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    scott spark team

    Quote Originally Posted by zephxiii View Post
    I haven't really used Climb mode much. However yes, it does seem to open up a bit easily. I thought it opened up a bit too easily though which made the shock feel kinda inconsistent. It's like, you put it in climb mode, it's firm like it's supposed to be, then suddenly you hit something and it's not in climb mode anymore lol.

    The interesting thing is that the Spark is naturally a very good climber in the small chain ring (especially with a 22t triple) due to the good anti-squat numbers for sitting and spinning. The big ring is where you really could use the Climb mode. I found Trail mode with the firmest setting to be pretty adequate.

    I'm going to be leaving the Float on the Spark for a while for a more long term get to know ya.

    Sadly I am in need of a fork for it bad though
    Thanks for the great info regarding the Team model. Zephxiii , You are a big help. Sorry for the sidetrack but I did the Manitou Tower Pro Taper Tube 15mm Axle with the Chris King oversize headset. Amazing difference. Cant wait to do the Fox shock.

  67. #67
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    I did use climb mode for quite a lot more after that post. I liked running it that way. I've left the CTD on the Spark since it has a much stronger platform and keeps the Spark pedaling efficiently. I've since gotten used to it.

    I'm 2.5 weeks into a broken Clavicle though so i haven't been on the bike for at least that. I was actually planning on running the bike in a 62 mile gravel grinder just to be 'comfortable'. I was also considering running it in Iceman Cometh, both races I had to miss.

    However looking at the conditions of Iceman, I don't think i'd want to run the Spark through all that lol.
    '12 Scott Spark 29 Team
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    Howdy. I have the 2013 Scott Spark 940. I'm going to do the fox shock conversion and was wondering about the fork. I don't use the remote switch very much and was thinking of removing it all together and going with more of a "set it and forget it" type set up. Can I just set the fork in the mode I want, open/descend, and then just remove the cable? Should I source a conversion kit that would give me the option to use the settings on the fork without a remote?

    I have played and played and played with the settings and pressures and could never really get the small bump compliance I wanted in the "trail" setting. Talked to the shop I purchase from and he advised to run it in the open setting all the time and set my air pressures slightly higher and that would solve my issue. Well, doing that the bike feels too squishy, too flexy. I guess Wallowing is what you guys call it.

    I see the exact same bike as mine above in mwillits post. Looks like he still had the remote on the fork but not the shock. I may go with set up but was wondering about the fork. Get a top cap conversion kit or can I just remove the cable and run it in the open setting?

  69. #69
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    Hi Durt,

    I am still using the fork with the lockout. I actually investigated getting the parts through fox. You can call fox with your fork serial number and they will put a list together and ship the parts. I believe the parts were like $30 or so. If you have any more questions let me know.

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    UPDATE: Went with the 2014 Fox Float CTD with boost valve non-remote version.
    F'n love it! Works so much better than the DT Swiss Nude that was on there. Should've made this conversion long ago. I leave it set in the "trail" mode and fiddled with my pressures a bit and am just loving how it feel's/rides. I weight approx. 170, have approx. 155 lbs in the shock with the rebound just one or two clicks toward the 'fast' side.

  71. #71
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    How is your shock tuned Durt?
    '12 Scott Spark 29 Team
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  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by cws196 View Post
    In terms of the DT versus the Fox:

    The Nude 2 never felt right to me, in only a month of use. With the travel in the mid setting it felt far too progressive - to my mind the primary air chamber is too small. To make it feel anywhere near like the shock was working, I was dropping air pressure. But when the secondary air chamber was opened (in the max travel setting), the shock/rear end then wallowed because the air pressure was too low.

    In contrast the Fox CTD, the Fox works on damper changes rather than travel changes, and does it all much better. It feels far more supple and compliant, and I don't the miss the travel adjustment at all. It simply works better - the rear end tracks much better, doesn't wallow and never feels 'stunted' as the Nude 2 did.

    I got the rear shock via ebay and had it re-tuned to as stated above. I'm 150kg and ride XC on my Spark.

    In terms of the cable pull, as long as you are using a Scott TwinLoc lever that was previously used with a Nude2, it will work fine. I measure the pull as 7mm, but it could quite as easiley have been 7.5mm, allowing for cable flex etc.
    Do you think the shock would be better suited for a different suspension design? I think the travel adjust is a really cool idea, but obviously it doesn't seem to be a pleaser in this case.

  73. #73
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    In a word No! The problem with DT is their damper tech is several years behind everyone else. Add to that they give their service centres no provision at all to custom tune the rear shocks and you end up with a shock like the Nude 2.

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    Well I hope they don't give up on the idea, I'd like to get good adjustable travel bike but I don't know how to get a Bionicon in the US.

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    I got a good deal on 2013 Spark 900 RC frame, and replaced the shock with 2014 Fox iCD and 2014 Fox iCD fork. Dont have the trail option in this setup, but other than that I love it.

    How does the 2014/2015 Fox Nude shock compare to the Fox Float CTD?
    Last edited by snaxez; 05-21-2015 at 01:52 AM.

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    Damper-wise, the Factory/Boost Valve CTD is still superior - Scott, in their wisdom, spec the Fox Nude with the Evolution-type damper on all but the very top-end Genius and Genius LT.

    Scott's reasoning was that the Evolution damper gives a firmer lok-out.....

  77. #77
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    Well the Climb in CTD does suck for anyone who actually wants a lockout. The new shocks I think fix that though so Scott may be more interested in them.
    '12 Scott Spark 29 Team
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  78. #78
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    Factory CTD shock isn't that great anyways lol. The new DPS shocks sound like they will be better.
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  79. #79
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    I have a spark 730 carbon 27.5..... Fox Rear Shock Float CTD Adj BV 2014 190x51mm , is this a better upgrade to the stock from the Fox Nude CTd stock one?

  80. #80
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    It is, but CTD isn't the best shock out there plus you'll lose the lockout that the Nude has. I'd look at the newer DPS series.

    TBH I wish i bought a Monarch RT3, but I guess the CTD works even though Climb leaves a little to be desired.
    '12 Scott Spark 29 Team
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  81. #81
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    I've gone through this thread completely but I'm not 100% clear on what my best option is for an aftermarket shock. Have a 2013 Scott Spark 930 with the Nude 2 CTD rear shock and Scott remote. I'd love to ditch the Nude 2 but preserve the remote function.

    Is the Fox Float DPS 3-position remote (6.5 x 1.5) a straight swap on the 2013 bike? Does one need to change the remote's "disk" governing cable throw? Or change out the remote to a Fox-made one? Any other spacers/reducers necessary for the retrofit?

    Thanks so much in advance for helping to clear this up for me.

  82. #82
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    You might call fox and ask them about the remote cable throw, they made both shocks so they should know. I would think them to be the same but who knows. When I bought my Float from Probikesupply they supplied the mounting hardware.
    '12 Scott Spark 29 Team
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  83. #83
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    Just to reiterate, the 6.5" x 1.5" Fox shocks fit into the 2012 Sparks, right?

    Any thought on CTD vs DPS? CTD's are heavily discounted right now. Fox Float CTD for $250. I can get Monarch XX for same price. DPS for $380.

  84. #84
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    Yes 6.5" x 1.5" for 2012 29er Spark.

    The CTD on the Spark has been what I would call OKAY. It's definitely not the best thing out there.

    The DPS has some improvements like better small bump sensitivity, a little stronger mid stroke support, and LSC adjust in descend mode (full open). Those are all things that made a lot of sense in the DPS reviews I've read when I thought about my dislikes of the CTD.

    Given my experience I think the DPS would be better on the Spark. I've sooo wanted to compare a DPS to my CTD.

    I'd totally be down with a Monarch too...just for that sag gauge lol.

    I also bought a 100 dollar X-Fusion O2 I scored off ebay for a backup shock. I thought it felt better and more consistent than the CTD but it just lacked (that particular model) platform that the Spark needs.
    '12 Scott Spark 29 Team
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  85. #85
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    Another thing to consider is that the Climb mode on the CTD is pretty soft. It's not a lockout, it firms up the low speed a bit but will give in on hits pretty easily. I've ran races in 100% Climb mode just cuz it gave in enough to not beat me up yet keeping the bike peppy under power. I felt no need to have it in Trail.

    Everything I've read on the DPS says the firmest setting is really FIRM. I'm not sure if it opens up like CTD does, but at least not so much as it seems.
    '12 Scott Spark 29 Team
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  86. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by zephxiii View Post
    Another thing to consider is that the Climb mode on the CTD is pretty soft. It's not a lockout, it firms up the low speed a bit but will give in on hits pretty easily. I've ran races in 100% Climb mode just cuz it gave in enough to not beat me up yet keeping the bike peppy under power. I felt no need to have it in Trail.

    Everything I've read on the DPS says the firmest setting is really FIRM. I'm not sure if it opens up like CTD does, but at least not so much as it seems.
    I just picked up 2012 Spark Expert. I liked everything I read but the rear shock. I'll ride on it and see how it goes. If not the CTD rear, then what do you recommend?

  87. #87
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    Whatever you get, it needs platform options.

    DPS might be good.
    '12 Scott Spark 29 Team
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  88. #88
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    What do u guys run for sag in the rear on CTD? and is this in low or high mode?
    '12 Scott Spark 29 Team
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    i was thinking DPS Factory series myself , Fox said it wont work and that the eyelet assembly is too big to fit the frame . and the only one that will is CTD SV

    interested if anyone has tried or made it work

  90. #90
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    https://translate.google.com/transla...817&edit-text=

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
    '12 Scott Spark 29 Team
    '13 Scott Scale 970
    '11 Scott Speedster S20
    '99 Spec' FSR Comp
    '9x Spec' Hardrock Cromo rigid

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    Not sure if one guy was not talking bout DPS specifically or not...seems odd it wouldn't fit.

    If it doesn't then I guess buy an X-Fusion O2 or Monarch \O/.

    TBH my Spark felt more normal with the random 100 dolla old XF O2 I score off eBay heheh

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
    '12 Scott Spark 29 Team
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    '9x Spec' Hardrock Cromo rigid

  92. #92
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    I dont see any reason, why it should not fit.
    Here is 2014 Fox Float SV remote measurements: http://www.ridefox.com/img/help/page..._XV-EYELET.jpg
    Here are 2016 DPS SV remote measurements: http://www.ridefox.com/img/help/page...-Remote-SV.jpg

    Both are exactly the same.

  93. #93
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    How much travel do you guys use on your CTDs? Seems like at 25% sag I only ever use 75% with my off the shelf tune... which is fine really as I prefer the lesser travel feel. I'm mostly in Trail mode in firmest position.
    '12 Scott Spark 29 Team
    '13 Scott Scale 970
    '11 Scott Speedster S20
    '99 Spec' FSR Comp
    '9x Spec' Hardrock Cromo rigid

  94. #94
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    Rumor has it that this shock won't work on a small spark that came with the DTS shock. Anyone know if that's true?
    Pedal

  95. #95
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    Hai,

    I saw this thread and thought i should tell you guys that a Fox DPS K rear 2016 shock fits a scott spark pro 2012. you need the same lenths as the CTD shock

    Because i have one mounted on my bike, since a week. I only needed a new twinloc and the bushings, two sets a noticed later.

    i can tell you firm is firm and the other settings i need to test, because i haven't riden in the woods yet. it doens't make contact with the frame at all.

  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by NashuaNL View Post
    Hai,

    I saw this thread and thought i should tell you guys that a Fox DPS K rear 2016 shock fits a scott spark pro 2012. you need the same lenths as the CTD shock

    Because i have one mounted on my bike, since a week. I only needed a new twinloc and the bushings, two sets a noticed later.

    i can tell you firm is firm and the other settings i need to test, because i haven't riden in the woods yet. it doens't make contact with the frame at all.
    That's great to hear! So did you get a Fox Factory DPS or a Scott Nude one?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
    '12 Scott Spark 29 Team
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    '99 Spec' FSR Comp
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  97. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by zephxiii View Post
    That's great to hear! So did you get a Fox Factory DPS or a Scott Nude one?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
    I got the Fox factory DPS kashima shock. when home i will try to upload a piture

  98. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by NashuaNL View Post
    Hai,

    I saw this thread and thought i should tell you guys that a Fox DPS K rear 2016 shock fits a scott spark pro 2012. you need the same lenths as the CTD shock

    Because i have one mounted on my bike, since a week. I only needed a new twinloc and the bushings, two sets a noticed later.

    i can tell you firm is firm and the other settings i need to test, because i haven't riden in the woods yet. it doens't make contact with the frame at all.
    I'm curious why you needed a new Twinloc system? Why did the original one not work with the Fox DPS? I just invested in a DPS shock to replace my dt Swiss nude. I was hoping to not have to mess with replacing my twinloc. I do have the newer version of the twinloc I believe. Any help is appreciated.

  99. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by bookum View Post
    I'm curious why you needed a new Twinloc system? Why did the original one not work with the Fox DPS? I just invested in a DPS shock to replace my dt Swiss nude. I was hoping to not have to mess with replacing my twinloc. I do have the newer version of the twinloc I believe. Any help is appreciated.
    Main was the old one and it went very heavy. I'm not sure that you need a new one but with the new twinloc it is for me much easier to change settings.

  100. #100
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    I wanted to add to this thread, since after calling FOX and my LBS Scott shop I was told there was no way to fit my 2012 Spark RC 26 with a new shock. After reading this thread and anything else I could find on the subject I did the following:

    I bought a REMOTE 2017 Fox Factory Float 7.5 x 2 for $258 and the correct bushings which are 6x22 for $30. Bought all NEW on ebay. Everything bolted up perfectly including the stock scott dual remote. Installation was 10 minutes! EASY!!

    The ride is so sweet now. That stock Nude 2 was complete JUNK!

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