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  1. #26
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    CTD shock on Spark?

    Great post. How did you know what reducers to order with the shock?

    Erik

  2. #27
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    Nice if only anyone done the conversion on a genius 700 !!!

    Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 4

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by bedell99 View Post
    How did you know what reducers to order with the shock?
    The bolt is a 6 mm and I believe the bushing width is 0.874". Those are the two relevant measurements my research turned up, but I'm not 100% positive since I didn't end up having to specify them when ordering. With Pro Bike Supply I just had to specify the frame and they send the appropriate reducers for free with the shock. The packaging didn't label their size.

  4. #29
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    Re: CTD shock on Spark?

    Quote Originally Posted by E46_M3 View Post
    I took the plunge and did it. For 2014 they are selling the 6.5 x 1.5 CTD with the Boost Valve and Trail Adjust features. I believe in 2013 you couldn't get either option in this size shock. I ordered through Pro Bike Supply and they supplied reducers with it. Unfortunately the packaging didn't label what size they were and so I can't give advice on that. But suffice it to say you will need the proper ones since the Nude 2 ones won't fit. Weight of the shock with the bushing reducers was 216 g.

     photo IMG_0176_zpsc08984c5.jpg

     photo IMG_0171_zps6e6d0e78.jpg

    I went back and forth a lot on if I should get the remote version or not. I liked using the remote on the Nude 2 but didn't want the big honkin Fox lever if I went with the CTD. Sounded like maybe the Scott lever could be used with the Fox shock but it would be incredibly stiff. In the end I didn't get the remote version and I'm happy with that. I've got a much cleaner bar top as a result. I can say that with the CTD you just don't need the remote as much as with the Nude 2. With the DT shock I was using it quite a bit. With the CTD I just set it in the Trail position and that is good for the majority of the time.

    Overall I like all 3 positions on the CTD shock better than the corresponding positions on the DT. The "lockout" on the CTD isn't locked out. It's just very stiff compression damping. It works better for typical offroad situations when I want things stiffened up. I felt like the lockout on the DT was intended for pavement or something. It was completely locked out which is just something I never really need. I'd lock it out when riding up a fireroad or when doing a 10 second uphill sprint but even a fireroad felt better with some compliance. And as for the 10 sec sprint, leaving the CTD in the middle position works fairly well anyway.

    The middle position on the CTD is way more active than any position on the DT shock. It works very well for rocky uphill and it also works very well for rocky downhill. The D (third) position on the CTD is also better than the fully open position on the DT though I don't even bother with it unless I'm doing a lengthy downhill with almost no pedaling required. The whole DT shock just feels very crudely controlled in comparison to the Fox. It works, but the CTD feels superior virtually all the time.

    I was really really really on the fence over getting the remote vs non-remote version. I loved the ability to use the remote on the DT shock with both my 1st gen Spark and my 2nd gen one. But the non-remote Fox shock is available with the trail adjust (3 sub settings when in T) while the remote version isn't. That hideous Fox remote lever is what pushed me over the edge to avoid the remote version and I'm happy with the decision. With this Fox shock, I just don't need the remote like I did with the DT. On a 1 hr loop around my house I maybe switched between positions every 3-5 min with the DT shock. With the Fox I maybe do it once. It just isn't needed since the shock seems to work so much better when in the middle position. Stiff when you want it to be, compliant when you don't. And for the most part, it does it all on its own.

    The shock cost was a bundle ($450). Not sure if it was worth that much or not. But I can say it works better than the Nude 2 hands down. Now that I got it and the bill is paid, I'm glad I got it. I was really happy with my Spark before this change but now I like it even more. Hopefully this insight gives some of you the info you need to make a decision either way. If it were $250-300 I'd say the swap is a no brainer. Since it's above that cost, it completely depends. I can see going either way. The bike works well with the DT shock, it just works better with the CTD.
    Hey how did you no what shock to get sv, lv or xv
    And hoy did you tune it on the scott?

    Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 4

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by zzzman20 View Post
    Actually, I have it set up now with the Scott lever (with the Fox inserts), and it seems to be working correctly. I will compare once the Fox lever comes in. You'll need the mounting hardware too, it's the 6x22.2 mm spacers on both sides.
    Yea I'd like to hear a little more detail on this, how it turned out etc, maybe some pictures. It sounds like you cracked it, it shouldn't be impossible by any means.

    And I don't get any warm-fuzzy from Scott at all regarding obtaining a 2014 FOX NUDE shock/lockout mechanism. They're worried about building/selling 2014 bikes right now, I understand that. But these parts have to be available through some channel as replacement parts eventually, right???

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by E46_M3 View Post
    I took the plunge and did it. For 2014 they are selling the 6.5 x 1.5 CTD with the Boost Valve and Trail Adjust features. I believe in 2013 you couldn't get either option in this size shock. I ordered through Pro Bike Supply and they supplied reducers with it. Unfortunately the packaging didn't label what size they were and so I can't give advice on that. But suffice it to say you will need the proper ones since the Nude 2 ones won't fit. Weight of the shock with the bushing reducers was 216 g.

     photo IMG_0176_zpsc08984c5.jpg

     photo IMG_0171_zps6e6d0e78.jpg

    I went back and forth a lot on if I should get the remote version or not. I liked using the remote on the Nude 2 but didn't want the big honkin Fox lever if I went with the CTD. Sounded like maybe the Scott lever could be used with the Fox shock but it would be incredibly stiff. In the end I didn't get the remote version and I'm happy with that. I've got a much cleaner bar top as a result. I can say that with the CTD you just don't need the remote as much as with the Nude 2. With the DT shock I was using it quite a bit. With the CTD I just set it in the Trail position and that is good for the majority of the time.

    Overall I like all 3 positions on the CTD shock better than the corresponding positions on the DT. The "lockout" on the CTD isn't locked out. It's just very stiff compression damping. It works better for typical offroad situations when I want things stiffened up. I felt like the lockout on the DT was intended for pavement or something. It was completely locked out which is just something I never really need. I'd lock it out when riding up a fireroad or when doing a 10 second uphill sprint but even a fireroad felt better with some compliance. And as for the 10 sec sprint, leaving the CTD in the middle position works fairly well anyway.

    The middle position on the CTD is way more active than any position on the DT shock. It works very well for rocky uphill and it also works very well for rocky downhill. The D (third) position on the CTD is also better than the fully open position on the DT though I don't even bother with it unless I'm doing a lengthy downhill with almost no pedaling required. The whole DT shock just feels very crudely controlled in comparison to the Fox. It works, but the CTD feels superior virtually all the time.

    I was really really really on the fence over getting the remote vs non-remote version. I loved the ability to use the remote on the DT shock with both my 1st gen Spark and my 2nd gen one. But the non-remote Fox shock is available with the trail adjust (3 sub settings when in T) while the remote version isn't. That hideous Fox remote lever is what pushed me over the edge to avoid the remote version and I'm happy with the decision. With this Fox shock, I just don't need the remote like I did with the DT. On a 1 hr loop around my house I maybe switched between positions every 3-5 min with the DT shock. With the Fox I maybe do it once. It just isn't needed since the shock seems to work so much better when in the middle position. Stiff when you want it to be, compliant when you don't. And for the most part, it does it all on its own.

    The shock cost was a bundle ($450). Not sure if it was worth that much or not. But I can say it works better than the Nude 2 hands down. Now that I got it and the bill is paid, I'm glad I got it. I was really happy with my Spark before this change but now I like it even more. Hopefully this insight gives some of you the info you need to make a decision either way. If it were $250-300 I'd say the swap is a no brainer. Since it's above that cost, it completely depends. I can see going either way. The bike works well with the DT shock, it just works better with the CTD.
    No big deal about the remote for the rear if it's a 2014 CTD. I called Fox because I'm getting a new bike & on my list is the Salsa Spearfish 1 it had the CTD fork and rear shock but no remote and I no likely reaching off the bars in long races (well at anytime I'm getting too old) when I'm getting tired I forget to take it out of PP on the bike I have now it's also a SF1 a 2012 and when I bought it I almost got a Spark. So any how I called Fox to see if I could put a remote on the 2014 fork, I told him that I knew that I would have to sell the CTD shock that comes on the SF1 and I'm over that I have already called you guys back in 2012 to see if you had a kit for my RP2 and the answer was NO! you have to buy a new rear shock and I did it was a RS X/Lock.

    So here is what the good people at Fox told me the other day 1st. we have a new CTD remote lever (3 way) the big lever is no more.. 2nd. yes all you have to do is buy the new remote lever $ 80.00 I think it might come with a new top cap? (Universal Cycles has them link below) and 3rd. the guy told me that they are down in the shop right now working on a remote kit so that if you have a 2014 rear CTD shock that is none remote you can make it into one I thought wow that's cool but now I keep going back and forth Spearfish or the Spark.
    Universal Cycles -- Fox CTD Remote Lever

  7. #32
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    It's a no brainer CTD any day. I just got a 2013 Spark Premium but didnt like it at all, it was just to hard and was just about to go back to my Superfly 100. But got a goog deal on ebay on a 2014 CTD w/Boost Valve $270 out of a scalpel. I called fox and they told me they had the same specs 6.5x1.5 and order the hardware 6mmx22.2 and its amazing like night and day. Its a conmplete different bike.

  8. #33
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    I just converted a 2014 fox ctd fork to a remote and installed a 14 ctd remote shock. I called probike supply and they didn't have an option for the 6 x 22.2 hardware. They said they couldn't get it but said the 21.84 kit would work because it is extremely close. The part # is 803-03-143. The only problem I've run into is the shock makes contact with the frame link in the low position. I'm going to have to file the rear link to make it work. Haven't taken the bike out on the trail yet but I'm hoping for a much improved ride. I can try to post some pics if anyone wants to see what the install looks like.

  9. #34
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    Re: CTD shock on Spark?

    CTD shock on Spark?-uploadfromtaptalk1391814883012.jpg
    Just finish mi bike havent been able to take it out for a spin but i bet it would feel better than the dt swiss crap!!

    Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

  10. #35
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    I have 2014 Scott Spark 710 with Fox Nude rear shock and Fox 32 fork connected to Scott's Twinloc remote lever. Unfortunately, when I was trying to change layout of the handlebar I applied too much of torque and damaged the clamp. Currently, the remote lever just hangs on the bar and is not fixed. To press the lever I need to use both hands: one to hold the remote system, the other to press the lever. I need a clamp but its either very difficult to find the remote TwinLoc, its very expensive around 65 pounds or its impossible to buy just a clamp rather than whole remote system. Please advise.

  11. #36
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    Only option is get a new Twinloc lever. 65 is hardly expensive when you consider the price of a) the rear shock and b) the complete bike!

  12. #37
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    After running the DT Nude2 for only a month, I too replaced it with a Fox CTD. My set-up is as below:

    2013 FLOAT CTD BV/Kashima/Remote - 250 BV pressure/Velocity Tune L/Rebound Tune M. I also had Mojo (Fox UK service centre) carry out further custom tuning for my weight/riding style. I can say that the Fox is a MASSIVE improvement over the DT Nude 2. I'm also not missing the travel adjust as at only 100mm travel, the change in damping between 'D' and 'C' modes mimics the travel change.

    The shock is being operated by a 2013 Scott Twinloc lever, which is also operating my Fox FLOAT CTD forx. Everything works great and the Twinloc lever toggles through all 3 modes, front+rear fine. If anyone needs to know, the 2013 Twinloc lever pulls 7mm of cable between each mode, front+rear, and which is the same as a 2013 Fox remote lever.

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by cws196 View Post
    After running the DT Nude2 for only a month, I too replaced it with a Fox CTD. My set-up is as below:

    2013 FLOAT CTD BV/Kashima/Remote - 250 BV pressure/Velocity Tune L/Rebound Tune M. I also had Mojo (Fox UK service centre) carry out further custom tuning for my weight/riding style. I can say that the Fox is a MASSIVE improvement over the DT Nude 2. I'm also not missing the travel adjust as at only 100mm travel, the change in damping between 'D' and 'C' modes mimics the travel change.

    The shock is being operated by a 2013 Scott Twinloc lever, which is also operating my Fox FLOAT CTD forx. Everything works great and the Twinloc lever toggles through all 3 modes, front+rear fine. If anyone needs to know, the 2013 Twinloc lever pulls 7mm of cable between each mode, front+rear, and which is the same as a 2013 Fox remote lever.
    Could you explain about what u mean about massive improvement (into uphill or descent ... also a detailed comparison betwen D, T and C three CTD mode and the three equivalent DT Nude2 modes)? Also u can refer about your personal characteristics (weight, type of trail riding that u normally do (simple XC trail or difficult AM one ...))?
    Thanks

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by cws196 View Post
    After running the DT Nude2 for only a month, I too replaced it with a Fox CTD. My set-up is as below: 2013 FLOAT CTD BV/Kashima/Remote - 250 BV pressure/Velocity Tune L/Rebound Tune M. I also had Mojo (Fox UK service centre) carry out further custom tuning for my weight/riding style. I can say that the Fox is a MASSIVE improvement over the DT Nude 2. I'm also not missing the travel adjust as at only 100mm travel, the change in damping between 'D' and 'C' modes mimics the travel change. The shock is being operated by a 2013 Scott Twinloc lever, which is also operating my Fox FLOAT CTD forx. Everything works great and the Twinloc lever toggles through all 3 modes, front+rear fine. If anyone needs to know, the 2013 Twinloc lever pulls 7mm of cable between each mode, front+rear, and which is the same as a 2013 Fox remote lever.
    I've actually measured the pulling of my Twinlock 2013 (Nude2 6.5"/1.5" of the my Spark 29 2013) and result exactly 7.5 mm for the TC position and 15 mm for the lockout position. Can you confirm that you have in effect the previously reported values 7+7 mm (ie i have a different twinlock)?

  15. #40
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    In terms of the DT versus the Fox:

    The Nude 2 never felt right to me, in only a month of use. With the travel in the mid setting it felt far too progressive - to my mind the primary air chamber is too small. To make it feel anywhere near like the shock was working, I was dropping air pressure. But when the secondary air chamber was opened (in the max travel setting), the shock/rear end then wallowed because the air pressure was too low.

    In contrast the Fox CTD, the Fox works on damper changes rather than travel changes, and does it all much better. It feels far more supple and compliant, and I don't the miss the travel adjustment at all. It simply works better - the rear end tracks much better, doesn't wallow and never feels 'stunted' as the Nude 2 did.

    I got the rear shock via ebay and had it re-tuned to as stated above. I'm 150kg and ride XC on my Spark.

    In terms of the cable pull, as long as you are using a Scott TwinLoc lever that was previously used with a Nude2, it will work fine. I measure the pull as 7mm, but it could quite as easiley have been 7.5mm, allowing for cable flex etc.

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by cws196 View Post
    In terms of the DT versus the Fox: The Nude 2 never felt right to me, in only a month of use. ................. In contrast the Fox CTD, the Fox works on damper changes rather than travel changes, and does it all much better. ..................... I got the rear shock via ebay and had it re-tuned to as stated above. I'm 150kg and ride XC on my Spark. In terms of the cable pull, as long as you are using a Scott TwinLoc lever that was previously used with a Nude2, it will work fine. I measure the pull as 7mm, but it could quite as easiley have been 7.5mm, allowing for cable flex etc.
    Thanks

  17. #42
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    My M210 on my 2012 29 Team is no longer holding air and I think ima upgrade to a fox shock..

    I'm reading through to try and figure out what I need.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
    2012 Scott Spark 29 Team
    2013 Scott Scale 970
    2011 Scott Speedster S20
    1999 Specialized FSR Comp

  18. #43
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    The question was never answered about sv, lv or xv?

    Which one is ideal for the Spark 29?
    2012 Scott Spark 29 Team
    2013 Scott Scale 970
    2011 Scott Speedster S20
    1999 Specialized FSR Comp

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by zephxiii View Post
    The question was never answered about sv, lv or xv? Which one is ideal for the Spark 29?
    The Float Factory CTD Remote 165/38 mm 2014/2015 is only made in the sv version. It is fully compatible with the twinlock 2012/2013 pulling (7.2+7.2 mm on the shox cable), but you have to set the frame link in the high position mode, otherwise the shox makes contact with. The hardware supplied in the shox box is 22.2/8 mm, but you need the version 22.2/6 mm. In the trail position the float is very better than nude 2. It is firm to pedaling and at the same time is fully able to copy the ground. In the climb position is firm also to pedaling out of saddle, but is'nt fully locked as nude. It is yet able to copy big impacts. Differently from nude the float dont increase the bike BB height in the climb position as the nude in lock do.

  20. #45
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    Ok, is it the barrel making contact with the linkage?

    heh well i just bit the bullet and ordered the 2014 Float CTD Kashima non-remote.
    2012 Scott Spark 29 Team
    2013 Scott Scale 970
    2011 Scott Speedster S20
    1999 Specialized FSR Comp

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by zephxiii View Post
    Ok, is it the barrel making contact with the linkage?

    heh well i just bit the bullet and ordered the 2014 Float CTD Kashima non-remote.
    No the barrel dont make contact with linkage nor with the frame. It is the shox plunger end that with our edges makes contact with the linkage. But only with the linkage screw set in low position mode.

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by ataro View Post
    No the barrel dont make contact with linkage nor with the frame. It is the shox plunger end that with our edges makes contact with the linkage. But only with the linkage screw set in low position mode.
    And the same thing with the fox nude?

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by darioras View Post
    And the same thing with the fox nude?
    No problems with Nude 2 in both low/high positions (obviously).

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by ataro View Post
    No problems with Nude 2 in both low/high positions (obviously).
    No sorry, I mean if the shock Fox Nude ctcd (version 2014) mounted on 2012 and 2013 29 spark frames touches the link only in lower position as well as the normal Fox ctd

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by darioras View Post
    No sorry, I mean if the shock Fox Nude ctcd (version 2014) mounted on 2012 and 2013 29 spark frames touches the link only in lower position as well as the normal Fox ctd
    I dont think that the 29 2014 frame is different from 2013. But i've the 2013 and cannot confirm so. From photo of Fox ctcd nude seems that its plunger ends with shape like Nude 2. But the problem are that the ctcd nude are'nt sold without Spark frame.

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