Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 100 of 101
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    87

    VP-Free Crank, BB, Guide & Chain Line (Merged Thread)

    I'm running a LRP dual ring guide on my VP Free with the new style Shimano XT cranks with outboard bearings. The cranks are awesome-- light and strong, but do not work with this setup. The chainline is all messed up due to the extra width of the BB design. What other cranks have you guys found to work well with the Free, especially those of you who are running a dual-ring guide?

    Also, if anyone has cranks that will work on this bike and wants to trade for a nice XT set, let me know! Otherwise they'll probably be for sale pretty soon.

  2. #2
    Lord of the Chainrings
    Reputation: Mudd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    2,924

    Go with RaceFace DH

    The downside to the VP-Free setup is that you have to spend $100 for a 128mm bottom bracket from RaceFace or Truvativ, to get the chainline correct. (Rear hub is another story.)

    I use the RaceFace Evolve DH crankset on mine. It rocks!
    Last edited by Mudd; 03-14-2006 at 09:04 AM.
    "Hesitation is the Mother of Failure!"

    ~~ 951 for Dirt & Roadster for Asphalt ~~

  3. #3
    All Mt, DH
    Reputation: rogue's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    488
    On my Free I'm running Truvativ Hussfelts with the 128mm BB.
    I think the BB may be on the way out.
    Looking at other options.... especially Diablous.. (prefer outboard bearing designs - easier to get cranks off)
    Anyone have experience with outboard bearing cranks on the Free?
    From Raceface website:
    BUILT FOR: DH & Extreme Freeride
    SIZE: 165,170, 175mm
    BB SHELL SIZE: 68/73, 83, 100mm
    WEIGHT: 1150g (175mm with 36T DH ring and BB)
    WARRANTY: Lifetime
    COLOURS: Bad Ass Black & Shiny Silver

    So If a Free needs a 73BB width then can an 83mm Diablous BB be cut 10mm (its only plastic on Shimano anyway) and have some spacer outside the driveside BB cup and between the drive crank.??? Just a thought

    I only run a 22/32/Bash setup and need to get (as close as possible) a 55mm chainline as per SC recommends...

    I did run the 68/73mm Saints and Hone but the chainline wasnt good and ghost shifted too much.

    Any recommendations appreciated
    2007 Blur 4x
    2009 Driver 8

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Ghostrider - TDP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    34
    Shimano saint M805 with 83mm BB

    BB changed to Race Face Diabolus bearings and spaced out from the frame ( 73mm BB conversion kit, plus spacers)

    Saint Front derailleur

    No chain problems but it looks a bit odd with the spacers.

  5. #5
    All Mt, DH
    Reputation: rogue's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    488
    Ghostrider
    Any chance of some pics of your crank setup, particularly the Race Face BB and spacers on the drive side..

    Thanks

    Rogue
    2007 Blur 4x
    2009 Driver 8

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Ghostrider - TDP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    34
    Sure, Here they are.
    I am going to get a single custom spacer machined up to replace the three in there, this should make it look a bit better.
    You can buy the Race face fitting kit this provides a different internal spacer, or just a 73mm BB shimano one.
    You need the race face bearings as they have longer threads than the shimano ones. This means you can thread the BB in as far as a normal saint one yet still fit the bigger spacers.
    You then have two choices:
    1) Fit the Race face spacers and space the crank arms out from the BB or
    2) like on mine, fit the spacers between the frame and the BB.

    I chose this option because a) the protrusion on the non drive side b) In order to seal properly the crank arms need to fit against the bearings.

    It does add cost though as you have to buy the extra BB bearings and kit.
    I have had no chain line problems. I also changed the original XT front mech to the saint one and it seems fine. Its definatly more beefy.

    I run with an E13 chain guide as well, again no issues.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Ghostrider - TDP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    34
    This link helped me get it sorted:

    http://speedgoat.com/feature-vpfree.asp

  8. #8
    All Mt, DH
    Reputation: rogue's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    488
    Thanks for the pics Ghostrider.. nice effort

    I did notice the Race Face bearing cups have more thread engagement than Shimano, which in theory means u could run more spacers.

    You say the Race Face kit has a different internal spacer.. I assume I buy one for a 73mm BB shell...

    Also if you are running a 2 ring setup can you measure the approx chainline (centre of seatpost to in between the two chainrings).... I'm really curious to see how it works out.

    I have seen that Speedgoat article before. (Speedgoat are great... I have bought lots of stuff from them).

    I have had the 'protusion' machined away on the non drive side...

    Interestingly the Saint cranks are quite a bit lighter than Diabolus (almost 200grams I think).. so that will come into the equation soon.
    I had M800 Saints before on my Free (an reallly liked them... just chanliine was wrong)

    Thanks for all you info so far.

    Rogue
    2007 Blur 4x
    2009 Driver 8

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Ghostrider - TDP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    34
    I got the measuring tape out and its a 55mm chainline. So spot on.

    I have also had the 'protrusion' machined away, it was done by SC themselves and they have confirmed it doesn't effect the warranty. I will also be having it done on my other VP free when it arrives.

    You need the M805 saints, I originally had the M800 but you get a poor chainline. As it was a custom build I sent it back to the shop and we sorted it out.

    This is from the SC website:
    "Raceface now offers a version of the Diabolus/ Evolve DH that will work. You need the 83mm bb shell version, which offers a 57.5mm chainline. You also need the 73mm shell adaptor kit. "

    The LBS I got the bike from gave me the original BB (saint) and also the Race Face spacer for the 83mm BB.
    So I think they used the Race face BB with the 73mm Saint spacer. They then used the BB spacers that came with the race face BB. Either that or they got the Race face BB kit and used the spacers from that.

    Happy to help, let me know if you need any more info
    Surrey Mounatin Biking (UK)
    www.guidedlines.com

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Ghostrider - TDP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    34
    Here's the link to the original pics, you can see the Saint BB that was fitted originally.

    New VP-Free
    Surrey Mounatin Biking (UK)
    www.guidedlines.com

  11. #11
    All Mt, DH
    Reputation: rogue's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    488
    Thanks Ghostrider

    Usefull info.

    I will now try and obtain the M805 Saints and RF BB

    It seems there are not many choices for external BB in the wider (83mm cranks)

    Good to see your setup works well.

    Rogue
    2007 Blur 4x
    2009 Driver 8

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation: schnookums's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    18

    VP-Free crank spacing (NEED HELP PLEASE)

    I am wondering how people are setting up their cranksets. I have the SPX build kit which gives you a 83mm crank with 3 silver spacers to make it fit the 73mm bottom bracket shell.
    I set the RaceFace X-type cups as instructed (two little black spacers on the drive side and one on the other), but the spindle is too long so I put two of the silver spacers on the spindle, outside the bearing cups, on the drive side and one on the other.
    My concern is the crank seams to out really far from the bike. How will this affect shifting (I'm running a duble with a clamp on XT derailer).
    Does any one have pictures of their crank set-up, or how have people been setting up the cranks for two rings up front.
    SC sent a 83mm crank for a 73mm bottom bracket shell to be used with a e13 single ring chain guide, but I know there are lots of people running dubles so I'm sure there must be a right way to set this up.
    Any help is much appeacieated
    Thanks
    Keep It Sketchy

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    40
    I am running a 73mmX118mm BB with a double ring in front. For spacing I have a small 1-2mm spacer along with the thickness of my MRP LRP arm and have had no shifting issues with chain lines.
    measure your chain line, center of the BB to the halfway point between the two rings. SC recommends this to be 55-57mm.
    I have yet to measure mine but I don't see any need since I don't have any issues.
    Live Life, Taste Death

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Ghostrider - TDP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    34
    Similar to mine, see this thread for details and pics:

    VP-Free Crank, BB, Guide & Chain Line (Merged Thread)
    Surrey Mounatin Biking (UK)
    www.guidedlines.com

  15. #15
    Knomer
    Reputation: Dusty Bottoms's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,373
    The BB spindle width should be 128mm. A 118mm "can" work but your feet will rub on the very wide chainstays.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    27
    Quote Originally Posted by schnookums
    I am wondering how people are setting up their cranksets. I have the SPX build kit which gives you a 83mm crank with 3 silver spacers to make it fit the 73mm bottom bracket shell.
    I set the RaceFace X-type cups as instructed (two little black spacers on the drive side and one on the other), but the spindle is too long so I put two of the silver spacers on the spindle, outside the bearing cups, on the drive side and one on the other.
    My concern is the crank seams to out really far from the bike. How will this affect shifting (I'm running a duble with a clamp on XT derailer).
    Does any one have pictures of their crank set-up, or how have people been setting up the cranks for two rings up front.
    SC sent a 83mm crank for a 73mm bottom bracket shell to be used with a e13 single ring chain guide, but I know there are lots of people running dubles so I'm sure there must be a right way to set this up.
    Any help is much appeacieated
    Thanks
    Hey you are on the right track, I'm putting mine together next week so I don't have any pics, but you are on the right track. I ahve some pics of my friends but they don't show the spacers... in the dark with mud....

    An xt derailer will work fine on a dual ring setup, if you want to run a tripple ring then you will need a saint 805 to get that extra reach to get into the top ring. remember a VP free is designed around a 55mm chain line.

    cheers

    james

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    2,045

    chain guide for vp-free

    Hi,
    i am a new vpfree owner.
    wich is the best chainguide for a single chainring on a vpfree?
    srs from e-13 or a system3 from mrp?
    thanks.
    Last edited by 8664; 07-17-2006 at 12:13 AM.

    ride.

  18. #18
    Freeriding Feline
    Reputation: SuperKat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    2,548
    I have the MRP Mini Me on there, but if I had the $$$ I'd try to put a DRS on so I can use it for more of an all-mountain ride. That second ring option would be nice.
    But the MRP is strong and it's taken Diablo rocks for about three years now. It was on my Bullit and now my VP Free.
    "If you give up your dream, you die."
    Twitter - KIKat1029

  19. #19
    Former MTBR Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    556
    Ditto. MRP Mini-Me. Also previously on a Bullit.

  20. #20
    2 wheel drifter
    Reputation: blackbart's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    163

    Damn DRS and VP-free

    So when I rebuilt my VPfree, (damn replacing all those bearing is a pain in the ass), I threw on a e-13 drs. Works great until I have to ride over a big rock or log then the guide hangs too low and gets smacked up into the chainstay where it not only knocks the stay but pinches the chain, essentially immobilizing it. It seems like a lot of people are running DRS guides on there VPfree's, so whats the secret? The guys at e-13 said they didn't have any good solutions so I thought I'd look here. Any input is much appreciated.

  21. #21
    Knomer
    Reputation: Dusty Bottoms's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,373
    Shave/Dremel as much material as you can off the top off the backplate, so you can rotate it as for clockwise as possible. Then tighten then system with the backplate touching the frame since when you sit on the bike the backplate/roller will move away from the frame. You should be using 2 spacer plates between the backplate & roller, and I found the roller worked better with a washer behind the roller and behind the roller cover bolt.

    Here's a pic with the bash removed...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Director of Sales: Knolly Bikes

  22. #22
    Lord of the Chainrings
    Reputation: Mudd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    2,924
    I use the MRP LRP with no problems.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Mudd; 09-08-2006 at 11:20 AM.
    "Hesitation is the Mother of Failure!"

    ~~ 951 for Dirt & Roadster for Asphalt ~~

  23. #23
    2 wheel drifter
    Reputation: blackbart's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    163
    I was figuring I would have to do a little machining so it works well. I'll bust out the dremmel and see what I can do. Dusty, quick question: so you have the guide plate basically touching the chainstay when the suspension is fully extended? does cutting put it up high enough to be out of harms way?

    I hadn't considered the MRP product, I'm thing of swapping the drs on my hardtail, so perhaps a mrp for the VPfree. Is the mrp roller definitely high enought o avoid getting nailed?


    thanks for the responses guys

  24. #24
    Knomer
    Reputation: Dusty Bottoms's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,373
    Quote Originally Posted by blackbart
    I was figuring I would have to do a little machining so it works well. I'll bust out the dremmel and see what I can do. Dusty, quick question: so you have the guide plate basically touching the chainstay when the suspension is fully extended? does cutting put it up high enough to be out of harms way?

    I hadn't considered the MRP product, I'm thing of swapping the drs on my hardtail, so perhaps a mrp for the VPfree. Is the mrp roller definitely high enought o avoid getting nailed?


    thanks for the responses guys
    Yes, I have the backplate touching the chainstay when the bike is static. This gets the roller assembly tucked up a little further.

    The lower vpp 'drop' link behind the bb creates a unique problem with vpp frames and roller guides. No matter what brand roller you choose it will never be in optimal position. You don't want to tuck it up TOO FAR since the chain will eventually bind on the underside of the chainstay. Just tuck it up to about 8 o'clock and ride. My roller cover has not taken a direct hit since I dremeled the extra room on mine.
    Director of Sales: Knolly Bikes

  25. #25
    2 wheel drifter
    Reputation: blackbart's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    163
    Thanks dusty, sound advice. I'm looking forward to giving it a go.

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MRUFF's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    49
    So do the Diabolous BB require you shave the protrusion off as well? Looks like from the picture that you don't have to?

    I am going to be setting up some Diabolous cranks up on my free and was curious.

  27. #27
    Freeriding Feline
    Reputation: SuperKat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    2,548

    Front CG For VP-Free

    Anyone have any suggestions for a front guide/bash guard for an '04 VP Free?
    Mine keeps slipping (MRP Mini-Me) and is currently held in place by some ghetto zip ties. Even then it still slips back and hits the frame as the second pic shows.
    I figure anything with a "boomerang" type piece will give me the same problem.
    Any ideas would be appreciated...
    Thanks.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    "If you give up your dream, you die."
    Twitter - KIKat1029

  28. #28
    Some Assembly Required
    Reputation: man w/ one hand's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    4,073
    e.13 DRS works good for me. Czech into their single ring unit. Jonas is great to work w/you on any issues you might ever have. CS @ e.13 is top notch.

    http://www.e13components.com/product_lg1.html
    "Why are you willing to take so much & leave others in need...just because you can?"

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation: D-line's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    456
    Just run the bashring sandwich. It works real well. Or tighten the BB down really tight with some locktite on the threads. The good thing about having a boomerang that moves a bit is that it can take some hits and not break. You are experiencing the downfall.

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    67
    I am thinking of putting on the Raceface Diabolous cranks as well. What size should I be looking to buy? Did you end up shaving a bit of the bike to put them on?
    The Santa cruz website recommends the 83 with spacers to fit the 73 BB, is this correct? I am getting back into mt. biking and all these measurements are new to me.

    Thanks, Demetre

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Ghostrider - TDP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    34

    Diabolus cranks

    You need to buy the 83mm version and then add spacers between the BB and the bearing.
    You will then get the perfect chainline.
    It should look like this:

    New VP-Free

    I see the new VP free has an 83mm BB and mountain points for the chain device.
    Surrey Mounatin Biking (UK)
    www.guidedlines.com

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    67
    I am setting up my VP Free with the Raceface BB. I have a question, is the BB shell suppose to screw in easily or should some force be required?

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Ghostrider - TDP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    34
    Quote Originally Posted by zariaman
    I am setting up my VP Free with the Raceface BB. I have a question, is the BB shell suppose to screw in easily or should some force be required?
    It should be easy, you should be able to do them up by hand. Only tigntening up towards the end. Check the threads on the BB and the cups for burs and make sure you are not cross threading it.
    If its very stiff, get your local bike shop to chase the bottom bracket through with the correct tool.
    If in doubt don't force it you could wreck your frame.
    Surrey Mounatin Biking (UK)
    www.guidedlines.com

  34. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation: freeriderB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,617

    New question here. VP-Free Crank, BB, Guide & Chainline (Merged Thread)

    well I ordered my frame...now I need to start buying some parts to build it up.
    What is the best match BB and crankset for the free?

    After looking at all the photos, it appears that Race Face Diablous or Truvativ Hozzfeller (sp?) is the favorite.

    Can someone tell me which BB to buy? I can't find the required specs on the SC web site.

    Also, I plan on running 2 rings with a guide (Evil, LRP...etc) just in case this makes a difference in the required BB length.

    Thanks much....

  35. #35
    Some Assembly Required
    Reputation: man w/ one hand's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    4,073
    Saint dbl ring cranks w/e.13 DRS. Bomb proof so far. You can get th' Saints pretty cheap if you look around. E.13 ain't cheap no where, but they're worth it.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    "Why are you willing to take so much & leave others in need...just because you can?"

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation: freeriderB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,617

    Saints

    Quote Originally Posted by man w/ one hand
    Saint dbl ring cranks w/e.13 DRS. Bomb proof so far. You can get th' Saints pretty cheap if you look around. E.13 ain't cheap no where, but they're worth it.
    Interesting...I was thinking Saints because I saw them REAL cheap...but I read a SC tech page that said they are not good for the chain line. read below....

    HERE IS THE TEXT FROM THE SC TECH PAGE (UK VERSION I BELIEVE):

    Can I use Saint or Raceface Diabolus X-Type Cranks?
    Not if you want good chainline. So far, all of these external bearing type cranks are designed for a bike with 135mm rear hub spacing, so with the 150mm spacing on the Free, the chainrings won't be centered on the cassette. Also, because of the huge external bearing cups, the non-drive side interferes with the ridge on the frame at the lower pivot. If you really must use these cranks, chainline be damned, you can face or file the ridge to allow the cup to sit flush. This setup will work somewhat, but only with a double or a single ring- no triples.

    The main problem that you will notice is a lot of chain rub on the front derailleur under mild cross-chain situations, and possibly your chain falling off of the chainring under backpedaling. You will also lose some of that big tire clearance that we talked about earlier.

    Which BB are you using with the Saints?
    Last edited by freeriderB; 01-29-2007 at 06:39 AM.

  37. #37
    Some Assembly Required
    Reputation: man w/ one hand's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    4,073
    Quote Originally Posted by freeriderB
    Interesting...I was thinking Saints because I saw them REAL cheap...but I read a SC tech page that said they are not good for the chain line. read below....

    HERE IS THE TEXT FROM THE SC TECH PAGE (UK VERSION I BELIEVE):

    Can I use Saint or Raceface Diabolus X-Type Cranks?
    Not if you want good chainline. So far, all of these external bearing type cranks are designed for a bike with 135mm rear hub spacing, so with the 150mm spacing on the Free, the chainrings won't be centered on the cassette. Also, because of the huge external bearing cups, the non-drive side interferes with the ridge on the frame at the lower pivot. If you really must use these cranks, chainline be damned, you can face or file the ridge to allow the cup to sit flush. This setup will work somewhat, but only with a double or a single ring- no triples.

    The main problem that you will notice is a lot of chain rub on the front derailleur under mild cross-chain situations, and possibly your chain falling off of the chainring under backpedaling. You will also lose some of that big tire clearance that we talked about earlier.

    Which BB are you using with the Saints?
    I'm using the bb that came w/the Saints, no spacer on the crank side, & (1) or (2) spacers on the non-drive side to clear the ridge on the frame they're talkin' about. As for the chainline w/the Saints, mine is perfect. I've never had a better chainline to be honest.
    Here is a crappy phone pic I took of th' bb & cranks awhile back.
    Looks like (1) spacers on the non-drive side.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    • File Type: jpg bb.JPG (75.0 KB, 1381 views)
    "Why are you willing to take so much & leave others in need...just because you can?"

  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation: freeriderB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,617

    BB came with the Saint Cranks?

    Quote Originally Posted by man w/ one hand
    I'm using the bb that came w/the Saints, no spacer on the crank side, & (1) or (2) spacers on the non-drive side to clear the ridge on the frame they're talkin' about. As for the chainline w/the Saints, mine is perfect. I've never had a better chainline to be honest.
    Here is a crappy phone pic I took of th' bb & cranks awhile back.
    Looks like (1) spacers on the non-drive side.
    I did not know the BB comes with the crankset.
    Do you know the size by any chance?

  39. #39
    Knomer
    Reputation: Dusty Bottoms's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,373
    Quote Originally Posted by freeriderB
    Interesting...I was thinking Saints because I saw them REAL cheap...but I read a SC tech page that said they are not good for the chain line. read below....

    HERE IS THE TEXT FROM THE SC TECH PAGE (UK VERSION I BELIEVE):

    Can I use Saint or Raceface Diabolus X-Type Cranks?
    Not if you want good chainline. So far, all of these external bearing type cranks are designed for a bike with 135mm rear hub spacing, so with the 150mm spacing on the Free, the chainrings won't be centered on the cassette. Also, because of the huge external bearing cups, the non-drive side interferes with the ridge on the frame at the lower pivot. If you really must use these cranks, chainline be damned, you can face or file the ridge to allow the cup to sit flush. This setup will work somewhat, but only with a double or a single ring- no triples.

    The main problem that you will notice is a lot of chain rub on the front derailleur under mild cross-chain situations, and possibly your chain falling off of the chainring under backpedaling. You will also lose some of that big tire clearance that we talked about earlier.

    Which BB are you using with the Saints?
    These comments by SC were likely written and posted before the advent of the Saint 150 group, which is dedicated to fitting properly on frames with 150mm spacing.

  40. #40
    Some Assembly Required
    Reputation: man w/ one hand's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    4,073
    Quote Originally Posted by freeriderB
    I did not know the BB comes with the crankset.
    Do you know the size by any chance?

    http://www.santacruzbicycles.com/vpf...?faq=1&ID=0135

    83mm
    "Why are you willing to take so much & leave others in need...just because you can?"

  41. #41
    MTBiker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    988

    What do you suggest I do: VP-free...*pics*

    I want to make it a single front ring and get an external BB. It's a 2006 VP Free. I posted elsewhere but apparently the cranks aren't isis even though it says so...? I opened it up and I see 10 splines which looks like isis to me.
    I have a 32T larger ring on there and I'm thinking of making that a 34 if it works with more guides.
    Please help me out and link me to some specific parts. I'm thinking e13 or MRP for the guide and truvativ for the bb. thanks.



















  42. #42
    Santa Cruz are THE BEST !
    Reputation: richslaney's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    47
    Hey mate,
    I'm running a 2 ring + Bashguard & Chainguide setup on my 06' VP-Free which works fantastic and still gives me a granny ring when I need it. I find my VP-Free with Rockshock Totem 2 Step Air forks climbs pretty well as I can drop the front end down to 135mm and also run a 4" GravityDropper to get my saddle upto a decent height.

    If you fancy keeping a dual ring (great on a VP-Free), then here is how I set everything up:-

    Parts:-
    ----------
    Shimano M805 Front Mech.
    Shimano M805-2 Chainset (with 36T + 24T rings) and 170mm cranks
    RaceFace Diabulos X-Type 73mm Bottom Bracket
    RaceFace 83-73mm BB Converter Kit (gets you the spacers)
    E13 ISCG05 DRS (36T) Chainguide
    E13 ISCG05 BB Adaptor Plate.

    Now here's how to set it all up :-
    ----------------------------------------------

    None Drive side
    Shimano Saint M805-2 Non Drive Crank Arm
    5mm Stainless Steel Spacer on Axle
    RaceFace Diabulos X-Type Bearing Cup (Non Drive)
    2 x 1mm Plastic Spacers (allows to tighten flush without worrying about the lower bearing seal lug.
    Frame Bottom Bracket

    Drive Side
    Frame Bottom Bracket
    E-13 ISCG05 BB Adaptor plate (flat side to Frame)
    2.5mm Plastic Spacer
    RaceFace Diabulos X-Type Bearing Cup (Drive)
    5mm Stainless Steel Spacer on Axle.
    Shimano Saint M805-2 Chainset (36T + 24T) + 36T E-13 Supercharger Ring.

    I also only ran 1x Mounting plate for the DRS Roller attached to the E-13 Back plate. Although I did also add an additional Plate to the back for extra strength. Drilled small hole to secure with a Zip Tie strap. The outer alignment lug on the E-13 Roller Assembly, aligns perfectly with the outer edge of the E-13 Supercharger Ring.

    In the end, approx 56 - 57mm chainline, Shifting good and no problems with chain derailing when back pedalling.

    Hope this helps as the job is certainly tricky and time consuming.

    You can see my rig at http://forums.mtbr.com/santa-cruz/post-pics-your-vp-free-47379-11.html#post380025

    Regards,
    Rich

  43. #43
    MTBiker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    988
    Wow your bike is beautiful. I'm pretty sure I want to go with a single front chainring setup overall though. Currently the outer ring is at 60mm and inner at about 50mm.

    I think I may just end up getting only a chainguide. Thanks

  44. #44
    29er Geek
    Reputation: tozovr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    1,540
    Those are ISIS. The 8 slotted part of th eBB that screws in is exactly like nearly every ISIS setup I've touched.
    unityhandbuilt

  45. #45
    29er Geek
    Reputation: tozovr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    1,540
    oh...is your bike locked to your bed? I do that too, except with my girlfriend.
    unityhandbuilt

  46. #46
    MTBiker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    988
    Yea tozovr I lock it to my bed for sure. The last thing I want it for someone to steal me preciousssssss.

    Now I just need to decide on a 34T single chainguide. MRP MiniMe? Truvativ Boxguide? E13 LG1?

  47. #47
    Some Assembly Required
    Reputation: man w/ one hand's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    4,073
    I'd go with a single ring Saint, you get a bb w/the cranks. You can find'em cheap too.
    "Why are you willing to take so much & leave others in need...just because you can?"

  48. #48
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    67

    VP-Free / race face diablos / e.13 DRS

    I am looking on getting the Race Face Diablos with dual ring chain guide from e.13. My vp free is a 2005 / 2006 model, I am not sure exactly. What size should the spindle and BB be? what chain line length do I need?

  49. #49
    mtbr member
    Reputation: serhij's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    450
    73E / 128mm for ISIS. Diabolus is X-type crankset, so You should look for 83mm version.

  50. #50
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    94

    Vp-free crank question?

    Does anyone know if 08 xt cranks will work with 04-05 vp-free? Is the axle any longer than the one that previos model had ( FC-M 760).

  51. #51
    mtbr member
    Reputation: inkpad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,551
    Quote Originally Posted by TrailTiger
    Does anyone know if 08 xt cranks will work with 04-05 vp-free? Is the axle any longer than the one that previos model had ( FC-M 760).
    Sorry, they won't work. You can go with Saint 805's, Race Face or a super sweet deal & set up would be to get the Hozfeller OCT 2 ring 170's that Santa Cruz has for sale on their website for $135.00, then get a howitzer 83x128 BB & you are set!!

  52. #52
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    94
    Those Howitzer OCTs sound nice, propably have to get them for next season. Im looking for lightest possible setup since its my girlfriens bike and she doesnt go that BIG Anybody, any suggestions, there will be some sort of chain guide involved.

  53. #53
    Propr
    Reputation: Lowball's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    1,052
    I just installed the Hozfeller OCT 2 ring 175's w / howitzer BB on my Nomad, but I'm sure they would work on the Free too.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    10 TransAM 1x9
    S-Works M2
    Nomad3cc xx1

  54. #54
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    326

    DRS on a VP what do I need.

    Will this allow the chainline to be within spec? Whats your opinion of this system, does it work well for FR/DH?
    Thanks.
    Mike.

  55. #55
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    326

    Any luck mounting one of these on a VP....


  56. #56
    Extreme XC
    Reputation: JonoB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    85
    I've got a DRS on my 'free and like it - it works well. The only downside is that with the lack of chainguide tabs the DRS will rotate, and if that happens you'll ground out the guide (including both the metal and plastic backing plates) onto the near side of the chainstay, which rather sucks.

    I'm using mine for a combination of FR, DH and trail riding (with a 22/36 gear range for general use, and a 38 when I've got fast(er) courses).

  57. #57
    Some Assembly Required
    Reputation: man w/ one hand's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    4,073
    Quote Originally Posted by JonoB
    I've got a DRS on my 'free and like it - it works well. The only downside is that with the lack of chainguide tabs the DRS will rotate, and if that happens you'll ground out the guide (including both the metal and plastic backing plates) onto the near side of the chainstay, which rather sucks.

    I'm using mine for a combination of FR, DH and trail riding (with a 22/36 gear range for general use, and a 38 when I've got fast(er) courses).

    Yep. I second JonoB thoughts. Chainline is not affected.
    "Why are you willing to take so much & leave others in need...just because you can?"

  58. #58
    mtbr member
    Reputation: inkpad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,551
    If you are mounting a DRS to an 07 frame with the ISCG tabs, good luck

    I tried to put Truvativ OCT's with two ring & a DRS on mine, no dice, as the tabs are flush with the BB & the small ring / bolts will not clear the backing plate, not even close. If it is the older frame, BB mount version, I would not worry too much about rotation, as you have to hit the roller guide pretty hard to move it, but it is easily moved back on the trail with a little muscle & leverage.

  59. #59
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    326
    Yeah its an 06. I think i might of just built the sickest VPfree on the planet by judging the photos that are on this board . Pics will be shot next week.
    Mike

  60. #60
    Some Assembly Required
    Reputation: man w/ one hand's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    4,073
    Quote Originally Posted by bigmike00
    Yeah its an 06. I think i might of just built the sickest VPfree on the planet by judging the photos that are on this board . Pics will be shot next week.
    Mike
    NEXT WEEK ?? Awww c'mon....next week......ppffffttt.
    "Why are you willing to take so much & leave others in need...just because you can?"

  61. #61
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    326
    I lent my friend use my 5d for his trip to france.

  62. #62
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    326

    Measuring chainline on a vp.

    did a search and found nothing. How do you do it?

  63. #63
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    191

    How about a Nomad

    I am also very interested in this info as I will be building a Nomad this winter and have not come across any info covering chain length.

  64. #64
    TNC
    TNC is offline
    noMAD man
    Reputation: TNC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,059
    It's not any different from most any other normal MTB out there with 68/73mm BB's. We're talking chainline here, as bigmike initially mentioned. I think mdobb is talking about the number of chain links.

    Mike, some of how you set it up will depend on the crank and any possible chain retention devices you use, so there's not necessarily a blanket statement. There's nothing difficult about it with most of the modern thru-axle cranksets that you'll probably end up using. The instructions contained in most of them will explain any spacer or chainline issues. Just follow them.

  65. #65
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    191
    Quote Originally Posted by TNC
    It's not any different from most any other normal MTB out there with 68/73mm BB's. We're talking chainline here, as bigmike initially mentioned. I think mdobb is talking about the number of chain links.

    Mike, some of how you set it up will depend on the crank and any possible chain retention devices you use, so there's not necessarily a blanket statement. There's nothing difficult about it with most of the modern thru-axle cranksets that you'll probably end up using. The instructions contained in most of them will explain any spacer or chainline issues. Just follow them.

    TNC you are correct I am was refering to the number of chain links, but I am also interested in knowing more about the chainline. I will be running a medium nomad with race face atlas w/ 3 rings intially and a XT shadow RD.

  66. #66
    TNC
    TNC is offline
    noMAD man
    Reputation: TNC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,059

    Just follow the instructions.

    Quote Originally Posted by mdobberina
    TNC you are correct I am was refering to the number of chain links, but I am also interested in knowing more about the chainline. I will be running a medium nomad with race face atlas w/ 3 rings intially and a XT shadow RD.
    The Nomad has a 73mm BB shell width. Follow Race Face's instructions that come with your Atlas as to spacer use for a 73mm BB.

  67. #67
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    191
    Quote Originally Posted by TNC
    The Nomad has a 73mm BB shell width. Follow Race Face's instructions that come with your Atlas as to spacer use for a 73mm BB.

    Ok, that seems easy enough but how about the length? I could see it being pretty crucial with a VPP bike where the chain tension comes to play in how the suspension works. Thanks in advance

  68. #68
    TNC
    TNC is offline
    noMAD man
    Reputation: TNC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,059
    I don't even count chain links anymore. I just cut a new chain to where the chain is just short of touching the derailleur when I'm in small to small...the chain in its slackest position in the granny ring and the smallest cog. I mainly run two-ring setups, so it's no big deal. Many set up their chain length so it will still operate in the big to big position without fragging the derailleur, but many full suspension bikes will change chain length under suspension compression to such a degree that you'd have to have a dramatic amount of slop to allow this. I've put some new bikes together that had what I believe to be an unacceptable amount of slop in the chain to achieve big to big. One can argue that you should ideally never be in the big to big setup or that you should never be in the small to small. Personally I'll set my 3-ring chain length in the small to small as I mentioned above so that I don't have to deal with a loose chain imitating a bull whip in really rough terrain. It's easy for me to avoid a big to big condition. People and bikes are different and how they run their chain length can vary according to terrain, where they usually run their gears, what kind and number of gears they use, if they run chain retention devices, and downright personal preference in some situations. This used to be more of a black-and-white issue with hardtails, but longer travel bikes today can bring all manner of issues to consider.

  69. #69
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    191
    Quote Originally Posted by TNC
    I don't even count chain links anymore. I just cut a new chain to where the chain is just short of touching the derailleur when I'm in small to small...the chain in its slackest position in the granny ring and the smallest cog. I mainly run two-ring setups, so it's no big deal. Many set up their chain length so it will still operate in the big to big position without fragging the derailleur, but many full suspension bikes will change chain length under suspension compression to such a degree that you'd have to have a dramatic amount of slop to allow this. I've put some new bikes together that had what I believe to be an unacceptable amount of slop in the chain to achieve big to big. One can argue that you should ideally never be in the big to big setup or that you should never be in the small to small. Personally I'll set my 3-ring chain length in the small to small as I mentioned above so that I don't have to deal with a loose chain imitating a bull whip in really rough terrain. It's easy for me to avoid a big to big condition. People and bikes are different and how they run their chain length can vary according to terrain, where they usually run their gears, what kind and number of gears they use, if they run chain retention devices, and downright personal preference in some situations. This used to be more of a black-and-white issue with hardtails, but longer travel bikes today can bring all manner of issues to consider.

    Ok so it's more of a trial and error thing. I am not sure by what you mean when you say 'where the chain is just short of touching the derailleur when I'm in small to small'. I thought about it and decided that the 3rd will not be required and am not going to run one. So I don't have to worry about that. Can you elaborate more for me. thanks

  70. #70
    TNC
    TNC is offline
    noMAD man
    Reputation: TNC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,059
    The "small to small" derailleur contact with the chain is where the chain is in its slackest position. The more links you put into the chain in the small-to-small position starts allowing the chain to grind against the derailleur as the lowest jockey wheel on the derailleur actually gets higher than the upper jockey wheel on the derailleur. Just put your bike's chain on the granny ring and the smallest rear cog, and you'll see what I mean about how close the chain gets to the derailleur body. Some bikes come set up with this contact actually occuring, so the owner can go big-to-big without destroying the derailleur. However, IMO this is not usually optimum because it results in a very loose chain when running in the granny ring. What?...you're a manly man and never run in the granny ring? Well, then set up your bike's chain so you can run big-to-big if needed...LOL!

  71. #71
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    326
    I think I read some place that you measure chainline from center of BB shell to the center ring or something like that I just wasnt %100 sure. Thanks for the other info. On my sram chains I put it on big to big, mark where the chainlinks will meet and add two links.

  72. #72
    Just another FOC'er
    Reputation: .Danno.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    2,222
    Quote Originally Posted by TNC
    Some bikes come set up with this contact actually occuring, so the owner can go big-to-big without destroying the derailleur. However, IMO this is not usually optimum because it results in a very loose chain when running in the granny ring. What?...you're a manly man and never run in the granny ring? Well, then set up your bike's chain so you can run big-to-big if needed...LOL!
    I set mine up to run big-big because on two ring setups the big is the middle ring and use that ring with all gears. On my 3 ring bikes I also set it up for big-big. Not because I plan on using that gear combo, but sure enough I screw up once in a while and find myself in big-big.

    When I set it up for big-big I pull the shock and figure out the chainlength required when the suspension is at its fully compressed position. That'll be the point of maximum chain growth. When I replace the chain I just use the old one for reference.

  73. #73
    TNC
    TNC is offline
    noMAD man
    Reputation: TNC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,059
    I knew you were a manly man, Danno...LOL!

    Yep, that's the ultimate way to check absolute chain length for a suspension bike setup. I still contend that some bikes that come through the shop with 3-ring setups have had unbelieveable slop in the granny ring when setup to run big/big safely...the Trek Liquid is just one for example. And yep, this comes down to the age old debate about not being in small/small or big/big, but alas it's not a perfect world...LOL! And as you pointed out Danno, when running a 2-ring setup and a long cage derailleur, it's not nearly as critical...even though proper chain tension is usually highly critical on these long travel bikes. I just don't believe there's a one-size-fits-all way of determining chain length anymore.

  74. #74
    MTBiker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    988
    The chainline measurement is from the centerline of the downtube to the center of your middle ring. If you have 2 rings measure to between them, or 1 ring measure to the center of it.
    We can bomb the world to pieces, but we can't bomb it into peace -Michael Franti

  75. #75
    Gnarbar
    Reputation: Freeride777's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    320

    New Bottom Bracket - VP-Free

    OK a total noob question here...

    New VPFree bought this season, ridden lots and lots this year. Fully maintained and serviced by LBS (supplying LBS and SC dealer). BB has been feeling rough and not at all smooth when back pedalling, like more resistance is being felt, just feels knackered. She's done 900km on resort DH and at least that much maybe 1.5 times that of general DH FR shuttle and some uphill riding.

    LBS says by BB is pretty much bust (worn out) and needs replacing. I'm like "uh after just one season WTF?").

    So they say yeah due to amount of riding and wet weather at Whistler it needs new BB.

    Any advice from fellow SC lovers ?

  76. #76
    bored ex-shop rat
    Reputation: velopax's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    375
    what kind of cranks do you have?

    The VP Free has a 83mm BB shell, thats limit the choice

  77. #77
    Gnarbar
    Reputation: Freeride777's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    320
    Hozzy OCT's.

    I wasn't expecting the BB to wear so soon. :-(

  78. #78
    bored ex-shop rat
    Reputation: velopax's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    375

    Caution;  Merge;  Workers Ahead!

    There is only the Howitzer Team with 83mm for your cranks, but the rig must still have
    waranty and the BB supposed last longer, maybe a friendly inquiry at SRAM is the way to go.

  79. #79
    Lord of the Chainrings
    Reputation: Mudd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    2,924
    "Hesitation is the Mother of Failure!"

    ~~ 951 for Dirt & Roadster for Asphalt ~~

  80. #80
    Justin Vander Pol
    Reputation: juice's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    1,595
    One year is really good for a BB, especially given how wet it was this summer in the PNW. Unless you want to buy new cranks, you only have one option - the Holzfellers. You have a 73mm shell and need the wide spacing for the 150mm rear hub - usually a 128mm axle, but it could be slightly different depending on the specific crank you have.

    And on the Raceface suggestion - no way. Their seals are crap and even on my xc bike I only got a few months from them. The Shimano's are way better if you ride in the wet at all, and Shimano and RF X-type BBs are interchangeable.

    I actually ditched the external style BB and went back to ISIS on my xc bike and I still have ISIS on my VP Free - but FSA Platinum Pro's (or Platinum DH's for VPFree) are the only ISIS worth their weight in poop.

    One word of advice - NEVER hose your bike off if you can help it. Up at Whis that isn't really an option when you need to sneak a clean bike up into your hotel room, but shooting water around any bearing will kill it and quick.

    I've been fighting BB's for many years now, and I'm finally convinced that 12 months is darn good no matter the system or the brand.

  81. #81
    TNC
    TNC is offline
    noMAD man
    Reputation: TNC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,059
    If I'm looking at it correctly, that Howitzer BB is only about $40-$50 full retail. Is that about right? If so, that's crazy cheap for a fairly stout DH/FR BB. I haven't seen one of these in the flesh, but it looks like an ISIS/outboard bearing hybrid. Pretty neat idea actually.

  82. #82
    Some Assembly Required
    Reputation: man w/ one hand's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    4,073
    Bit more $$$$ than just a bb, but if'n it was me, I'd get a set of Saint cranks, (bb comes with it). You'll love'em. I do on my VP Free. Love the irony of the Saint logo and the e.13 logo together.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    "Why are you willing to take so much & leave others in need...just because you can?"

  83. #83
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    326
    Quote Originally Posted by velopax
    what kind of cranks do you have?

    The VP Free has a 83mm BB shell, thats limit the choice
    The free has a 73mm shell. You need a 73x128 bb to have good shifting if your running a 2x9 set-up.

  84. #84
    Justin Vander Pol
    Reputation: juice's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    1,595
    deleted - I'm an idjit and can't read.

  85. #85
    Tear it all out! SuperModerator
    Reputation: CraigH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    7,755

    Good job!

    Quote Originally Posted by Ghostrider - TDP
    Similar to mine, see this thread for details and pics:

    VP-Free Crank, BB, Guide & Chain Line (Merged Thread)
    I just spent some time merging all the VP-Free Crank, BB, Guide & Chain Line threads into the thread linked above.

    Reply to this thread if there are other threads that should be merged in.

    (I just bought a used VP-Free and it didn't come with a guide so need to add one before the riding season gets going.)

  86. #86
    Tear it all out! SuperModerator
    Reputation: CraigH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    7,755
    Holzfeller cranks, anyone running them on their VP-Free?

    Just bought a used VP-Free with older style Truvativ Holzfeller Isis cranks, but no guide. (I'm not sure what BB is in there.)

    I'd like to install a guide, which one are people using with these cranks?


  87. #87
    MTBiker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    988
    Quote Originally Posted by CraigH
    Holzfeller cranks, anyone running them on their VP-Free?

    Just bought a used VP-Free with older style Truvativ Holzfeller Isis cranks, but no guide. (I'm not sure what BB is in there.)

    I'd like to install a guide, which one are people using with these cranks?

    I've got those cranks but I took off the smaller ring and run a Gamut G25 guide with single 32T ring. It's been working great and has plenty of clearance.

    We can bomb the world to pieces, but we can't bomb it into peace -Michael Franti

  88. #88
    Tear it all out! SuperModerator
    Reputation: CraigH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    7,755
    Quote Originally Posted by kuksul08
    I've got those cranks but I took off the smaller ring and run a Gamut G25 guide with single 32T ring. It's been working great and has plenty of clearance.
    Thanks for the info, but I need to keep the granny ring for climbing, I should have mentioned that.

  89. #89
    MTBiker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    988
    Quote Originally Posted by CraigH
    Thanks for the info, but I need to keep the granny ring for climbing, I should have mentioned that.
    Ahh I see. That's how the bike was set up before. It had an MRP LRP chain guide (just a two step roller on the bottom) and a derailleur. I never saw the derailleur on it though

    We can bomb the world to pieces, but we can't bomb it into peace -Michael Franti

  90. #90
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    293
    Sorry to be a pain in the arse, but I'm getting a bit confused here. I'm thinking of buying a vp-free to replace my old dh rig. I'll be running a single ring with mrp up front. what cranks should I be looking at? Does it have to be a 83mm ready crank or can I use a 73mm crank as i'm only running a single ring?

    Thanks
    Pete

  91. #91
    It's Quick
    Reputation: Ixquiac's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    227
    Quote Originally Posted by CraigH
    I just spent some time merging all the VP-Free Crank, BB, Guide & Chain Line threads into the thread linked above.

    Reply to this thread if there are other threads that should be merged in.

    (I just bought a used VP-Free and it didn't come with a guide so need to add one before the riding season gets going.)

    I'm looking at picking a used one pretty soon. What did u score yours for?
    2008 SC Chamelon
    2007 SC Nomad 1-1/8
    2007 SC V-10

  92. #92
    Bum Buzzer
    Reputation: Huck Banzai's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    1,988
    Quote Originally Posted by Ghostrider - TDP
    Shimano saint M805 with 83mm BB

    BB changed to Race Face Diabolus bearings and spaced out from the frame ( 73mm BB conversion kit, plus spacers)

    Saint Front derailleur

    No chain problems but it looks a bit odd with the spacers.

    Ditto.

    It only looks odd if you look at it....

  93. #93
    Professional Troll
    Reputation: Gemini2k05's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    2,247
    Quote Originally Posted by Pete-G
    Sorry to be a pain in the arse, but I'm getting a bit confused here. I'm thinking of buying a vp-free to replace my old dh rig. I'll be running a single ring with mrp up front. what cranks should I be looking at? Does it have to be a 83mm ready crank or can I use a 73mm crank as i'm only running a single ring?

    Thanks
    Pete
    Ya I'm trying to figure that one out. Waiting for SC to call me back. Anyone know if I can just run an e13 SRS with the new 09 saints? And which bb should i use?

  94. #94
    Former Ninja
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    428
    Gemini,
    You could run a 73mm/50mm chainline crankset with the VP free, but I have a feeling that you would run into issues with fitting the guide. The chainstays are extremely dropped, and the rear hub is a 150mm wide spacing I believe, creating a mismatched chainline.

    The proper fix would be to get a set of those 83mm Diabolus cranks with a reducer kit (that Raceface also makes), or a set of the Truvativ Holzfellers with the 73mm/56mm chainline Howitzer BB. I think Raceface also might have some other 83mm crank offerings as well that would theoretically work with the conversion kit.

    Shimano doesn't have a conversion solution for this...although you could run an 83mm Saint setup with 24mm spacers on the spindle. I dont know how long term durability would be however.

    I've attached a pic of the Diabolus setup that I mentioned earlier. The VP-Free ideally should have an 83mm bottom bracket shell (if yours doesn't). Chainguide installation should be a breeze at that point.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  95. #95
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    293
    Quote Originally Posted by philw86
    Gemini,
    You could run a 73mm/50mm chainline crankset with the VP free, but I have a feeling that you would run into issues with fitting the guide. The chainstays are extremely dropped, and the rear hub is a 150mm wide spacing I believe, creating a mismatched chainline.

    The proper fix would be to get a set of those 83mm Diabolus cranks with a reducer kit (that Raceface also makes), or a set of the Truvativ Holzfellers with the 73mm/56mm chainline Howitzer BB. I think Raceface also might have some other 83mm crank offerings as well that would theoretically work with the conversion kit.

    Shimano doesn't have a conversion solution for this...although you could run an 83mm Saint setup with 24mm spacers on the spindle. I dont know how long term durability would be however.

    I've attached a pic of the Diabolus setup that I mentioned earlier. The VP-Free ideally should have an 83mm bottom bracket shell (if yours doesn't). Chainguide installation should be a breeze at that point.
    OK having got mine sorted now...
    I use the 83mm Saint cranks. You can set them up using the raceface spacer kit or just the appropiate amount of spacers, because when all said and done thats all the RF kit is. You can use whichever of the 83mm external bearing bottom bracket cranks you like using this setup (Shimano or RF). I run mine with a 9speed cassette and MRP system3 and it works great, hasn't dropped the chain once!

  96. #96
    Professional Troll
    Reputation: Gemini2k05's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    2,247
    ^^ to the 2 above, that's what i was thinking might work. Thanks for validating my theory .

  97. #97
    Tear it all out! SuperModerator
    Reputation: CraigH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    7,755
    Quote Originally Posted by Ghostrider - TDP
    Shimano saint M805 with 83mm BB

    BB changed to Race Face Diabolus bearings and spaced out from the frame ( 73mm BB conversion kit, plus spacers)

    Saint Front derailleur

    No chain problems but it looks a bit odd with the spacers.
    Ya, I know this is a very old post but do you know which model Saint front derailleur you have?

    The XT front on mine doesn't shift that well, it doesn't seem to have enough throw.

  98. #98
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    2
    Hello everyone this is my first post and it's a cry for help really I am in the middle of building a sc vp free and I have come to the chainline conundrum(spelling?) I am just seeing if there is an update with all the newer parts on the market since the last post on this subject. Is there a more upto date setup with saint or raceface parts to overcome the chainline problem can someone please tell me exactly what I need I am going down the 2x10 route any help greatly greatly appreciated

  99. #99
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 11053's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    2,175
    There is no chainline problem on the VP Free providing you get the correct BB and crank combo.
    Easiest route is to go with a Tuvativ BB and Holzfeller cranks.
    There is a BB specifc for the VPF chainline and the drivetrain will shift perfectly with a 2x10 Holzfeller/Hussefelt crank set up.
    Chain guide/Bash ring set up is easy as well with a BB mount-no need for an ISCG adaper unless you want one.(assuming you have an early 08 or older VPF)

  100. #100
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    2
    Thank you Norman for your reply I have purchased a Truvativ oct 2.2 DH 24-36-bash with a howitzer team 73mm/56mm chainline, with xt f/r mech and xt shifters and a black spire chain tensioner I'm hoping it all works together

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •