Hi - I,m demmoing a TRc later this week and even though I havent made my mind up yet I,m allready thinking what fork - the "builds " on the SC site seem to favour Float 130 / 130RLC,s but Ive read a few reveiws were guys have fitted talas that can go 130 OR 150 , if I fit a fox talas with the 130mm - 150 mm option ,What will the performance diferences be at both lengths ? - what diference would I notice in each length setting over a similar ride, climb - singletrack - berms - techy downhill - techy uphill etc ?? - Dosent it make more sense to have the option to go large if req,d ?
Or am I heading for a world of trouble ??
In fact any info on would be helpfull -
my trc is being build right now, i'm opting for a white brothers loop tcr (130/140/150).
this also gives me the possibility to mount 650b wheels if i want to.
the bike should be ready next tuesday, i'll let you know how it rides ;-)
If you ride lots of rocks and or steeps, Float 36 set at 130/140. The extra stiffness really compliments the stiff carbon frame.
You don't need a Talas. This bike climbs just fine.
Hi Thanks to everyone who answered , Think I,ll go with the 140 Float RLC , But before I commit can someone explain the above - I.E.
1/ how do you "set " a 160mm float to ride at 130/140 ?
2/ what do they perform like at the reduced length.
3/ even if I only ever ran the 36,s at 130/140 would the fact that I,d fitted a 36 void my waranty
4/ Pardon my ignorance - I know nothing about FOX forks - 10 yrs riding Ive had a GIANT with rockshox - A WHYTE with Mavericks - and a Spesh with the in house E150,s -
Ya don't worry about a Talas ect, I have two bikes with Talas forks one is a 140-120-100 and the other is a 160-140-120. I can honestly say that I have not touched the travel adjust since the first month of having the bikes.
Not to mention that with the talas or any other air fork travel adjust there is 10 times as many air seals which as they break down prevent full travel from being reached. The floats are also a little more supple due to less seals inside the air chamber.
Next bike I get will have a float for sure, however the RS Revelations are pretty nice also, I don't think you could go wrong with most modern forks.
They use travel spacers inside the fork which stops the air piston from being fully extended think of a 10 mm washer, the fox float 130 is actually the 150 with two 10mm travel spacers
Are you sure? I think the 150 shock has longer stanchions and that the 130 Fork will only extend to 140, this is unless the fork was s Float 150 to start with, right?
Sounds like a bit of compromise - Does the fork still perform ok - as it reaches the end of its stroke ?. Or does it abrupyly end when it should be ramping up .
I am certain that the 140 floats are the platform for the 130, with a 10 mm spacer applied from the factory. I suspect, however that the stanchions on the 150 float are longer even though the 150 can apparently be lowered to 130 using a 20 mm spacer. Anybody know of the 150 stanchions are different from those used on the 140 series?
The 130 that came on my new TRc had one 10mm spacer in it. However the internals are for a 150 float that has been factory set to max out at 140. You can drive out the pin that holds the top-out at 140 and press it in at the 150 setting (there is a hole for it). I may not be describing it well, but you can check out a similar procedure here: How to lower your Fox Float 32 the GHETTO no-special-tools, or spacers method! - Pinkbike.com Forum The damper and stanchions go to 150 too, which was apparent once I took out the air-side internals.
running the x fusion velvet 2012 model. one can change the travel internally from 140 down
to 100 in 10mm increments. did a bit of friction reduction inside the fork. The x fusion has lots less flex than the fox, works about the same as a float for half the price. It does weight a
bit more, less flex is more important.
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