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  1. #1
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    Tallboy Owners.....10mm TA Rear End

    Maybe it has been asked.....maybe not.

    Have a TallboyC that I got back in 2009 when they first released them.

    Been a great bike.

    At 200 lbs. I wish the rear end was a little stiffer. Would love to go with the 142x12, but a new frame is not in the cards at this point.

    So I decided that I will meet in the middle.

    Going to swap out the 5mm QR from my 240s rear hub for 10mm TA w/RWS.

    Question is.......is there going to be a noticable difference in the flex in the rear end?


    Thx
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  2. #2
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    Well, I can't speak from experience with the TB . . . however, I made the same conversion with my AL BlurLT2, and yes it made an immediately noticeable difference in lateral stiffness. Why anyone runs a rear QR anymore is beyond me.

    Also, give a good look at the Hadley thru-bolt. When I made the switch, I originally wanted the DT RWS as well, but after search and reading thread after thread of them failing (they seem to break at the clamp), I went with the Hadley (no moving parts). VERY happy with it. Just remember to carry a 6mm with you.
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  3. #3
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    RE: Tallboy Owners.....10mm TA Rear End

    I am bout 230lbs, so I flex mu tallboy pretty good. Two of the things I did to tighten up the rear, first I installed a Hadley thru bolt made decent improvement. Then, I checked and torqued all the pivot points to spec. I think this made the biggest difference, these parts wear in and cause flex in my experience. My bike is now awful stout.
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  4. #4
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    Yeah.....gotta work with what I have....so i am not going to re-lace a new wheel.....I like my 240s.

    If this doesn't give me what I am looking for, then maybe I'll use my Hope's with 10mm BO.
    I resolve to constantly assert my honest opinion on anything and everything - whether it is requested or not.
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  5. #5
    007
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbikej View Post
    Yeah.....gotta work with what I have....so i am not going to re-lace a new wheel.....I like my 240s.

    If this doesn't give me what I am looking for, then maybe I'll use my Hope's with 10mm BO.
    What do you mean "work with what you have?" If your rear hub can take the 10mm RWS, then it will take the Hadley Thru-bolt as well. They are both 10x135. No need to relace anything . . . . I'm confused (as usual).
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 007 View Post
    What do you mean "work with what you have?" If your rear hub can take the 10mm RWS, then it will take the Hadley Thru-bolt as well. They are both 10x135. No need to relace anything . . . . I'm confused (as usual).


    Ahhhh....misunderstanding.....thought you meant to relace a Hadley hub w/ TA.

    I was thinking hub.....

    You were speaking of this:

    Last edited by mtnbikej; 03-29-2013 at 02:07 PM.
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  7. #7
    007
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbikej View Post
    Ahhhh....misunderstanding.....thought you meant to relace a Hadley hub w/ TA.

    I was thinking hub.....

    You were speaking of this:

    Yes! That thing is exactly what I have. I think its lighter than the RWS too (if you're into that sort of thing)
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  8. #8
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    I had the same 240s rear hub and converted it to the 10mm axle. I think it helped and the cost was minimal. Wheel build, spoke tension, rim etc. also add to the flex equation. I thought the 10mm conversion was worth the $80.

  9. #9
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    Tallboy Owners.....10mm TA Rear End

    A few yeArs back I found the rear end of my Superlight tightened up considerably when I switch from a QR to CK "Fun Bolts". I agree: QRs are or should be on the way out on mountain bikes.
    --Reamer

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    I converted the DT350 hub on my TBc to 10mm, and I use the DT RWS. I noticed a definite improvement while grabbing the seat and pushing the rim back and forth. On the trail I didn't notice a significant difference, but I'm 160 lbs and didn't feel a lot of flex anyway. I figure it's an improvement over the standard QR, though, and I've converted all of my mountain bikes to 10x135.

  11. #11
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    I didn't found references to Hope 135x10 bolt, but it's also a nice solution to solve rear end flex.
    Also check spoke tension.

  12. #12
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    Transition Bikes also sells a cheap 10mm nutted axle, along with a 10mm QR skewer, I ran both when my Hope Pro 2 was converted to 135x10 bolt-through on my old TransAM.

    10mm QR

    10mm nutted axle
    konahonzo

  13. #13
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    I converted my King hubs to use a 10mm DT Swiss RWS. Noticeably stiffer with either stout Enve rims or slightly noodly Stan's Crests. Money well spent for me.

    I weigh 175-185 lbs...

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Transition Bikes also sells a cheap 10mm nutted axle, along with a 10mm QR skewer, I ran both when my Hope Pro 2 was converted to 135x10 bolt-through on my old TransAM.

    10mm QR

    10mm nutted axle
    The problem with that nutted axle is that it requires two wrenches to get it on/off . . . not good on the trail. The Hadley only needs on 6mm allen.

    The 10mm QR looks legit, though it suffers from a similar problem as other QRs in that its more difficult to replicate the same tension with each removal from the bike. When you run super tight brake caliper/rotor tolerances, this can make a difference.
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  15. #15
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    The 10mm QR brings significantly better alignment than the 5mm skewer as well. There's significantly more tension although its not really about that; it sits more precisely in the same place each time. This is why I've switched my hard tail over to the 10mm QR as well. I can tell the Crests are very slightly stiffer, but the brake is always aligned and doesn't irritate me anymore.

    Unless you're breaking out a torque wrench each time, through-bolts will also have variances in compressive clamping force. So will a 15mm or 20mm fork skewer/Maxle/whatever if you think about it. But the difference in clamping force from each instance of wheel removal is pretty minimal here and certainly not enough to compress the frame or wheel by millimeters or something. the diameter and stiffness in bending of the different parts improve alignment to the brake caliper a great deal and keeps you from having to realign every stupid time you take the wheels off. If alignment is your concern the giant skewer option is a valid fix.

    I'm not in a big hurry to go 142mm (not that it's that simple) since the 10mm doesn't leave me desiring any improvement...

    For the OP though, the 10mm skewer tightens up the rear triangle a lot. Definitely worth however much...

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by TXNavy View Post
    The 10mm QR brings significantly better alignment than the 5mm skewer as well. There's significantly more tension although its not really about that; it sits more precisely in the same place each time. This is why I've switched my hard tail over to the 10mm QR as well. I can tell the Crests are very slightly stiffer, but the brake is always aligned and doesn't irritate me anymore.

    Unless you're breaking out a torque wrench each time, through-bolts will also have variances in compressive clamping force. So will a 15mm or 20mm fork skewer/Maxle/whatever if you think about it. But the difference in clamping force from each instance of wheel removal is pretty minimal here and certainly not enough to compress the frame or wheel by millimeters or something. the diameter and stiffness in bending of the different parts improve alignment to the brake caliper a great deal and keeps you from having to realign every stupid time you take the wheels off. If alignment is your concern the giant skewer option is a valid fix.

    I'm not in a big hurry to go 142mm (not that it's that simple) since the 10mm doesn't leave me desiring any improvement...

    For the OP though, the 10mm skewer tightens up the rear triangle a lot. Definitely worth however much...


    Thanks, got my caps and RWS 10mm today and installed them. Will test it out tomorrow.
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  17. #17
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    what does the "conversion" entail if I want to use one of these hadleys? Right now I have a DT350 with QR hub.

    Thanks!
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stupendous Man View Post
    what does the "conversion" entail if I want to use one of these hadleys? Right now I have a DT350 with QR hub.

    Thanks!

    You have to get new 10mm TB/TA end caps and the the Hadley bolt on axle. That's it.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbikej View Post
    You have to get new 10mm TB/TA end caps and the the Hadley bolt on axle. That's it.
    Yup, pretty much thats all there is to it.
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  20. #20
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    Through axles are the only way I roll now, I'll never go back to a QR skewer again.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by jabrabu View Post
    I converted the DT350 hub on my TBc to 10mm, and I use the DT RWS. I noticed a definite improvement while grabbing the seat and pushing the rim back and forth. On the trail I didn't notice a significant difference, but I'm 160 lbs and didn't feel a lot of flex anyway. I figure it's an improvement over the standard QR, though, and I've converted all of my mountain bikes to 10x135.
    Bringing this thread back to life if possible - I have a 2012 TBc with DT 350s and want to convert to 135x10. Are the only things I need for this are the thru axel bolt and end caps? I have an XD driver free hub for an XX1 11 speed cassette:

    DT Swiss XD End Caps for 135mm x 10mm Thru Bolt hubs from Bike Bling

    DT Swiss RWS Thru-Bolt 10x135mm Rear Aluminum QR from Bike Bling

    And is this something a novice mechanic can pull off?
    Asteroids do not concern me admiral. I want that ship, not excuses.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by bucknejo View Post
    Bringing this thread back to life if possible - I have a 2012 TBc with DT 350s and want to convert to 135x10. Are the only things I need for this are the thru axel bolt and end caps? I have an XD driver free hub for an XX1 11 speed cassette:

    DT Swiss XD End Caps for 135mm x 10mm Thru Bolt hubs from Bike Bling

    DT Swiss RWS Thru-Bolt 10x135mm Rear Aluminum QR from Bike Bling

    And is this something a novice mechanic can pull off?
    Yep, that should do it. It's very easy to do -- the end caps just press in. You might need to use some pliers to pull the old ones out. Just hold the freehub in place while you pull the end cap so you don't pull the freehub off, although it might be a good time to clean and re-grease the DT star ratchet (use the special DT Swiss grease for this).

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by jabrabu View Post
    Yep, that should do it. It's very easy to do -- the end caps just press in. You might need to use some pliers to pull the old ones out. Just hold the freehub in place while you pull the end cap so you don't pull the freehub off, although it might be a good time to clean and re-grease the DT star ratchet (use the special DT Swiss grease for this).
    Thanks for the quick response! And thanks for the feedback - good idea to get under the hood and do some maintenance while the patient is open and on the table.
    Asteroids do not concern me admiral. I want that ship, not excuses.

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