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  1. #4901
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    Just getting into MTN biking after 5 years off...got a great deal on a new 2014 TBLTc w XT kit so I decided to make my first FS bike a nice one...still trying to get my head around a lot of the technical business and just looking for general advice and tips...this looks like the right place to do it

  2. #4902
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    Quote Originally Posted by Breaktheory View Post
    Just getting into MTN biking after 5 years off...got a great deal on a new 2014 TBLTc w XT kit so I decided to make my first FS bike a nice one...still trying to get my head around a lot of the technical business and just looking for general advice and tips...this looks like the right place to do it
    You've got a great bike! Get out and ride! Post up questions as they pop up.

    Some like the rear shock sagged to 20% some sag to 30%. Don't be afraid to experiment with different pressure in the rear shock and fork, too.

    Look at the instructions on SC website on bearing overhaul. You may need to tighten the pivot axles after a break in period. It's easy.

    It's just a bike! Ride and enjoy!


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  3. #4903
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    Quote Originally Posted by reamer41 View Post
    You've got a great bike! Get out and ride! Post up questions as they pop up.

    Some like the rear shock sagged to 20% some sag to 30%. Don't be afraid to experiment with different pressure in the rear shock and fork, too.

    Look at the instructions on SC website on bearing overhaul. You may need to tighten the pivot axles after a break in period. It's easy.

    It's just a bike! Ride and enjoy!


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    Thanks dude...im in LA so I've beeen riding around the Santa Monica mountains getting acquainted with the bike (and the trails) what an upgrade from my $400 hard tail from 2007!

  4. #4904
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    So first question is about the suspension - the bike is a 2014 and has a fox 34 float factory ctd fork...not sure what year but I'd imagine also 2014. I read a lot of posts talking about the dramatic superiority of the pike or that the fox 36 is superior to that. Then to add to the confusion it seems the year models on these also factor in.

    How much of a difference do these other shocks make and what exactly is it that makes them "better" so far my rides have been very smooth, is there a whole other level w say a fox 36 or pike? Thanks much

  5. #4905
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    I've currently got a 130mm Fox 34 on my 2014 Stache and a 140mm Pike on my LTc, so both are pretty close. The Pike is definitely stiffer with the 35mm stanchions, handles bigger hits much better, better brake dive prevention, and allows for more of a custom tune with the tokens. The Fox 34 is a little more supple over smaller stuff and generally a little smoother overall, but more brake dive and not quite as stiff, keep in mind my 34 has 10mm less travel as well. Both are great trail forks, the Pike is just a step up. I wouldn't say it's whole new level though. If I had a Fox 34 I wouldn't rush out and buy a Pike. If I had to buy a fork right away because I broke mine, I'd choose the Pike.

  6. #4906
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    -I would suggest upgrading the internals (both sides) to the 2016 FIT4 system over the CTD stuff that was NOT very good.

    You'll save a buncha $$$ that way!
    "There's two kinds of people in this world - Walkers and Talkers." Which one are you?

  7. #4907
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    Quote Originally Posted by Breaktheory View Post
    So first question is about the suspension - the bike is a 2014 and has a fox 34 float factory ctd fork...not sure what year but I'd imagine also 2014. I read a lot of posts talking about the dramatic superiority of the pike or that the fox 36 is superior to that. Then to add to the confusion it seems the year models on these also factor in.

    How much of a difference do these other shocks make and what exactly is it that makes them "better" so far my rides have been very smooth, is there a whole other level w say a fox 36 or pike? Thanks much
    Personally better and cheaper than upgrading to a new fork is a custom tune.

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  8. #4908
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    Anyone happen to be selling a Float X from a tblt?
    2014 Diamondback Sortie 29 2.0
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  9. #4909
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    I have a BOS deville if you are interested

  10. #4910
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    I have a Float X send me a PM.


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  11. #4911
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    Only one good ride so far but I'm really loving this bike!!!

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  12. #4912
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    Noice!

    Jus decided it might be time to part ways with mine...

  13. #4913
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    Selling mine d/t life circumstances, has been an incredible bike and is in great shape. PM me if you have any interest.

    2015 Tallboy LTc - Avalanche Tuned - Derby Wheels - Buy and Sell Mountain Bikes and Accessories

  14. #4914
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    Part ways?

    Quote Originally Posted by max_lombardy View Post
    Noice!

    Jus decided it might be time to part ways with mine...


    Part ways with your LTc?

  15. #4915
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    Yep, pm if you have any questions

  16. #4916
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    Disaster Strikes

    Sorry to hijack guys but disaster has struck - I think I leaned my 2014 LTC against a post with a screw sticking out that appears to have punctured the top tube and left a nasty exit wound from pulling it off! Has anyone had experience with something like this - I've crashed the bike with no issues but a simple screw does it in?!

    My LBS said they spoke with Santa Cruz (I also reached out) who didn't have a matching replacement triangle and if I had the tube repaired at CALFEE it would void the warranty of the frame - I was not able to reach anyone at SC to discuss - anyone have any experience with either punctured carbon or SC warranties being voided by repair? I don't see anything on the SC site about warranty voiding.

    Thanks all!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-screen-shot-2016-08-02-7.22.13-pm.jpg  

    Last edited by Breaktheory; 08-02-2016 at 07:23 PM. Reason: adding picture

  17. #4917
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    It seems reasonable to me that a warranty would be voided if a repair was made. How could they guarantee the integrity of their product that had been repaired? That being said, if SC doesnt have a replacement triangle, you're only left with the repair option and taking the risk on your own. I have a calfee road bike and I've sent my frame to be refinished and they do great work, so I wouldn't be worried.

  18. #4918
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    My LTc frame cracked as is being waranteed.


    The carbon rear triangle, Tonka yellow, and a cytoe down tube shield is free to a good home. Plus shipping.

  19. #4919
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miker J View Post
    My LTc frame cracked as is being waranteed.


    The carbon rear triangle, Tonka yellow, and a cytoe down tube shield is free to a good home. Plus shipping.
    Hightower?

    What cracked...where?
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  20. #4920
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    If Calfee repairs it you will have a good frame but no warranty. that sounds better than a busted frame with no warranty. It looks like an easy repair, but would have to be painted too. What would that cost, and would it be worth it?

  21. #4921
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miker J View Post
    My LTc frame cracked as is being waranteed.


    The carbon rear triangle, Tonka yellow, and a cytoe down tube shield is free to a good home. Plus shipping.
    That's very generous but unfortunately it's my front triangle!

  22. #4922
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    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    If Calfee repairs it you will have a good frame but no warranty. that sounds better than a busted frame with no warranty. It looks like an easy repair, but would have to be painted too. What would that cost, and would it be worth it?
    Yah I sent it off to Calfee - this was more just to make sure this was routine as I was never able to get ahold of SC myself and got all this info from the bike shop. I'm guessing it'll be about $500 all in (cost $100 just to ship it there) and I'll probably do express return so certainly worth the cost.

    Anyone have experience with something like this - seems like a carbon frame should be able to withhold the impact of a screwhead no? That's why I thought maybe the frame was faulty to begin with but the bike shop inspection laid fault on me due to impact marks.

    Seems odd that a minor impact on a screw would tear it up like thius

  23. #4923
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    Quote Originally Posted by Breaktheory View Post
    Yah I sent it off to Calfee - this was more just to make sure this was routine as I was never able to get ahold of SC myself and got all this info from the bike shop. I'm guessing it'll be about $500 all in (cost $100 just to ship it there) and I'll probably do express return so certainly worth the cost.

    Anyone have experience with something like this - seems like a carbon frame should be able to withhold the impact of a screwhead no? That's why I thought maybe the frame was faulty to begin with but the bike shop inspection laid fault on me due to impact marks.

    Seems odd that a minor impact on a screw would tear it up like thius
    Ouch on shipping. I repeat this on any thread I read about outrageous shipping costs BIKEFLIGHTS is the only way to ship bikes/frames. I've shipped frame across the country for $40 insured.
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  24. #4924
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    Quote Originally Posted by Breaktheory View Post
    Yah I sent it off to Calfee - this was more just to make sure this was routine as I was never able to get ahold of SC myself and got all this info from the bike shop. I'm guessing it'll be about $500 all in (cost $100 just to ship it there) and I'll probably do express return so certainly worth the cost.

    Anyone have experience with something like this - seems like a carbon frame should be able to withhold the impact of a screwhead no? That's why I thought maybe the frame was faulty to begin with but the bike shop inspection laid fault on me due to impact marks.

    Seems odd that a minor impact on a screw would tear it up like thius
    From what I have heard, it is the sharp penetration type blows that are carbon's weakness compared to steel or aluminum, even if it is stronger in tension, bending and fatigue.

    Do you know if Calfee will paint the whole frame or just touch up the repair? I wonder if you could change the color?

  25. #4925
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    I think they'll do whatever you're willing to pay for down to decal replacatiom but just having my little hole painted is running me $150 not inclusive of carbon work so probably pricey to paint a whole bike - check out the site

    http://calfeedesign.com

  26. #4926
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Ouch on shipping. I repeat this on any thread I read about outrageous shipping costs BIKEFLIGHTS is the only way to ship bikes/frames. I've shipped frame across the country for $40 insured.
    I'm gonna have to check that out although hopefully I won't need to be shipping this thing around much! - actually it was $60 for the packaging, $50 for fedex ground and $50 for $2500 of insurance! Ouch is right

  27. #4927
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    So this is slightly off topic but I just bought my first road bike, a 2016 cannondale caad12 105 - the 105 drivetrain is unbelievably smooth - click bang you're shifted - the 2014 xt train on my Tallboy is certainly no slouch but more like click crank bang - not the instant response from the 105 - is this just a road bike vs mountain bike thing or should my XT be shifting just as smoothly and quickly? Granted this is a 2016 105 vs a 2014 xt - love to hear thoughts thanks!

    edit: drivetrain might be the wrong term Im referring specifically to the shifting of gears

  28. #4928
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Hightower?

    What cracked...where?

    The area around the LTCs BB.

    SC was very cool about it.

    I was selling the bike to a friend. Based on that I'd already bought another frame, hd3. Friend backed out. Was going to sell the full TB in classifieds. While cleaning I noticed the crack.

    Test rode a HT. Very nice but I'd end up with too many bikes so I'm working out something different.

    Anyway, the rear triangle and cytoe is free to anyone.

    I've also got a wheelset, fork, dropper post,...etc, that went with the frame, that I'm looking to sell off.

    Shameless plug, sorry.

  29. #4929
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    Hello to all,
    what is for you, actually the best shock to run on a SC Tallboy LT frame.
    One of my friend who own also the same frame but in carbon, is very happy with the Fox float boostvalve version. I'm currently running the shock provided with the frame Fox Float Ctd kashima, that's all. I would like also to keep a descent weight ;-)

  30. #4930
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    I decided that Float X was probably overkill and just upgraded to a 2017 fox DPS shock with EVOL sleeve and I couldn't be happier so far. It's a perfect match for the new 34 fork and gives the bike a nice bottomless feel. Huge improvement over the CTD.

    2014 Diamondback Sortie 29 2.0
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  31. #4931
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    Quote Originally Posted by Breaktheory View Post
    So this is slightly off topic but I just bought my first road bike, a 2016 cannondale caad12 105 - the 105 drivetrain is unbelievably smooth - click bang you're shifted - the 2014 xt train on my Tallboy is certainly no slouch but more like click crank bang - not the instant response from the 105 - is this just a road bike vs mountain bike thing or should my XT be shifting just as smoothly and quickly? Granted this is a 2016 105 vs a 2014 xt - love to hear thoughts thanks!

    edit: drivetrain might be the wrong term Im referring specifically to the shifting of gears
    I know what you mean. I have 105 11spd on my roadie as well and it's flawless. I felt the same way until two days ago when I upgraded to XT M8000 and WOW! It's amazing. The action on the shifter is so light and shifts so crisp I find I need to get used to it and not shift down 2-3 gears at a time on accident. The 42t granny gear helps on the climbs but the shifting performance alone if worth the upgrade to the new XT stuff. I'm so happy
    2014 Diamondback Sortie 29 2.0
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  32. #4932
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    Quote Originally Posted by xjohnx77 View Post
    I decided that Float X was probably overkill and just upgraded to a 2017 fox DPS shock with EVOL sleeve and I couldn't be happier so far. It's a perfect match for the new 34 fork and gives the bike a nice bottomless feel. Huge improvement over the CTD.

    -I could not agree more. The new Fox EVOL shock is quality kit!
    "There's two kinds of people in this world - Walkers and Talkers." Which one are you?

  33. #4933
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    A thumbs up to SC who's ok'd a new frame for my cracked LTc. A simple pic with the original receipt and they were totally cool to deal with.

  34. #4934
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    Anyone try a volume spacer in their Fox RP23, and if it worked have a larger one to sell me? I know the shock sucks but figure I would give it a shot as opposed to sending it to PUSH. Or should I just try to find a new Rockshox or Fox shock take off from someone?

  35. #4935
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    From my recently deceased LTc, paid spam...

    Chris King on Derby, 29" - Buy and Sell Mountain Bikes and Accessories

    Shoot me a text with question.

    Lots of other tasty bits left over from the dead frame, including a Fox Factory Float, and a Spec Blacklite dropper, 125mm, carbon bars, 10 speed xtr/xt drive train, XT brakes.

  36. #4936
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    Quote Originally Posted by xjohnx77 View Post
    I know what you mean. I have 105 11spd on my roadie as well and it's flawless. I felt the same way until two days ago when I upgraded to XT M8000 and WOW! It's amazing. The action on the shifter is so light and shifts so crisp I find I need to get used to it and not shift down 2-3 gears at a time on accident. The 42t granny gear helps on the climbs but the shifting performance alone if worth the upgrade to the new XT stuff. I'm so happy
    I believe I have the 7800 series...what did you upgrade from?

  37. #4937
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miker J View Post
    A thumbs up to SC who's ok'd a new frame for my cracked LTc. A simple pic with the original receipt and they were totally cool to deal with.
    What color and year?

  38. #4938
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    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-fullsizerender.jpg

  39. #4939
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    Hey all,

    Since the thread is slowing down, I thought I'd post my thoughts about my 2 year old LTC.

    Upgraded the shock to a Cane Creek DB airCs. Turned the HSC way down and now it feels completely bottomless, whereas I used to feel the stock Fox CTD bottom out regularly.

    Swapped the air shaft in my Pike from a 140 to 150 ($30.00 part, $20.00 in oil, lube etc) and love the extra travel.

    Put on a shorter stem (50mm) and love the handling.

    I know the Hightower is getting rave reviews, and in a few years I may upgrade, but right now, I LOVE MY BIKE!

    Kingdom Trails in 3 weeks!

  40. #4940
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    Finally completed my build! Can't tell you guys how much I love this bike. What a weapon.

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  41. #4941
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    Quote Originally Posted by cburdick1 View Post
    Hey all,

    Since the thread is slowing down, I thought I'd post my thoughts about my 2 year old LTC.

    I know the Hightower is getting rave reviews, and in a few years I may upgrade, but right now, I LOVE MY BIKE!
    I'll second that!

  42. #4942
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    Shimano vs SRAM? I've been noticing more and more sram over shimano as the years progress-I'm using my 7800 xt full kit am I missing out on something? I've never tried sram

  43. #4943
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    I think it has been Sram pushing the 1x so much and how incredibly nice it is if you are X01 or XX1 (and GX is very nice as well). Now that Shimano has x11 down through SLX it should close the gap some, but Sram's eagle 1x12 really makes going 1x extremely plausible.

  44. #4944
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    I will admit I'm a shimano before sram guy so I guess I'm bias but, I can't say enough about how smooth and awesome M8000 1x11 XT is. Couldn't be happier with the (relatively cheap) upgrade.
    2014 Diamondback Sortie 29 2.0
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  45. #4945
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    Quote Originally Posted by xjohnx77 View Post
    I will admit I'm a shimano before sram guy so I guess I'm bias but, I can't say enough about how smooth and awesome M8000 1x11 XT is. Couldn't be happier with the (relatively cheap) upgrade.
    What did you upgrade from? You think the difference from 7800 is substantial?

  46. #4946
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    Quote Originally Posted by Breaktheory View Post
    What did you upgrade from? You think the difference from 7800 is substantial?
    I upgraded from M785 10spd. And yes I think it's significant. The 42t is a nice bail out granny but I was amazed by how much smoother it is and the biggest difference is how light the action is of the shifter. I still find myself accidentally shifting down 2-3 gears at a time. We all probably throw money at "upgrades" sometimes just for the sake of it but, it's nice to have something new that reminds you it's better every time you use it. Money well spent.
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  47. #4947
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    I used to be a Shimano guy but went with the XO1 1X11 on my LTc. Sram has the lighter rear cassette, but as far as shifting goes, I think shimano has better shifting in comparing the trigger shifters. I like shifting with my index finger on Shimano where Sram does not allow for that. I would suggest using the XO1 cassette and XT rear der, and XT shifter or XTR stuff if you will. I should have done this but wanted to give Sram and honest try, I miss Shimano shifting. One thing about the 1x system is it will make you a stronger rider. After time you will not miss 2x or 3x systems and with the eagle, well you won't miss it ever. Enjoy your LTc...

  48. #4948
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rev. 14 View Post
    One thing about the 1x system is it will make you a stronger rider.
    I keep on hearing this said but I just don't believe it. Perhaps when you're still young you may get stronger but some of us are getting to the wrong side of our mid life crisis. No matter how much I try, I don't get stronger - my lungs run out of oxygen, my legs hurt and I get off an walk...

    I recently upgraded the chain set, a 175mm 22(I geared down from 24)-32-42 M785, on my '13 spec LTc and I replaced it with 170mm 22-30-40 M780. For me at least, I love this combination. Even though I'm near 6ft tall, I find the shorter cranks with the smaller chain rings allow me to spin that much better and keep going on the steep stuff.

    If I wasn't in Colorado perhaps I may change to 1x, however around here there seems to be three types of riding:
    1) Grunt climbing, best done in the 22
    2) Descending, great in the 40 (even if not going that fast on technical descents) as the high gear gives plenty of torque/slower cadence to remain in control
    3) for everything else (which is not much ) the 30.

    Of course, ymmv and this is a very personal, location specific thing.

  49. #4949
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    I've got a 2x10 on my LTc. 22/36 up front and 11-36 in back. It's a great setup and all the range I need.
    On my 29x3.00 hardtail I want with a 1x11 (30t x 11-46 cassette). In most was I really like it. But there is not enough top ends for dirt or paved road sections. I'm not goi g to give up anything on the bottom. Being past 50 and working a full time job I'm never going to be all that much stronger.

    So long as I'm not in a hurry the 1x is great. I'd consider a XDdriver and e13 9-44 cassette for the LTc, but man, the costs add up! And the 2x works so well...


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  50. #4950
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    Wheelset upgrade - I have the basic stock wheels that came w the bike - what would a good sub $1000 wheelset upgrade be? Any thoughts on carbon - this is for my 2014 xt

  51. #4951
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    Quote Originally Posted by Breaktheory View Post
    Wheelset upgrade - I have the basic stock wheels that came w the bike - what would a good sub $1000 wheelset upgrade be? Any thoughts on carbon - this is for my 2014 xt
    Look into light-bicycle carbon rims on Hope hubs. Should come in around or below 1K. Fantastic wheels.

  52. #4952
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    Light bicycle carbon on the best hubs you can afford.

  53. #4953
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNormsk View Post
    I keep on hearing this said but I just don't believe it. Perhaps when you're still young you may get stronger but some of us are getting to the wrong side of our mid life crisis. No matter how much I try, I don't get stronger - my lungs run out of oxygen, my legs hurt and I get off an walk....
    Well, it is a true statement and to be honest I'm probably right behind you in age being in my early 40's. There are several factors, how much are you riding? Nutrition? Have you tried using Creatine? I know it is usually associated with bodybuilding but it does work for muscle endurance and strength building and let's be honest that after soreness we get at our age, creatine takes care of that. I can tell when I have been off creatine for a couple weeks because soreness really hits home, when I'm using creatine I never get sore and I can go and go. I recommend creature by beast sports because it is a blend. I'll be honest its not a drug, if it was, it would not be available on amazon or in Vitamine shopp so with that it takes a good 3 weeks before you will notice good results, i.e., increased strength, faster recovery, no more soreness,etc.

    My increased strength in my riding has come from using the 1X though, it has challenged me and I have grown into it and I love the simplicity and weight savings. There has only been one time that I wished I had the new eagle 1x system. Done some riding in NM area, MI area, and now Tenn area and the 1x has served well. I suspect if I went with a single speed I would become an even better, faster, and stronger rider. I don't plan on that though, all I'm saying is 1x does challenge you mentally and physically and will grow from it and never miss 2 or 3x's.

  54. #4954
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rev. 14 View Post
    Well, it is a true statement and to be honest I'm probably right behind you in age being in my early 40's. There are several factors, how much are you riding? Nutrition? Have you tried using Creatine? I know it is usually associated with bodybuilding but it does work for muscle endurance and strength building and let's be honest that after soreness we get at our age, creatine takes care of that. I can tell when I have been off creatine for a couple weeks because soreness really hits home, when I'm using creatine I never get sore and I can go and go. I recommend creature by beast sports because it is a blend. I'll be honest its not a drug, if it was, it would not be available on amazon or in Vitamine shopp so with that it takes a good 3 weeks before you will notice good results, i.e., increased strength, faster recovery, no more soreness,etc.

    My increased strength in my riding has come from using the 1X though, it has challenged me and I have grown into it and I love the simplicity and weight savings. There has only been one time that I wished I had the new eagle 1x system. Done some riding in NM area, MI area, and now Tenn area and the 1x has served well. I suspect if I went with a single speed I would become an even better, faster, and stronger rider. I don't plan on that though, all I'm saying is 1x does challenge you mentally and physically and will grow from it and never miss 2 or 3x's.
    Frequency of rides is key. It's hard to make the jump doing 3-4 rides a month, but once you get to 2-3x a week, it happens fast and is great.

  55. #4955
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNormsk View Post
    I keep on hearing this said but I just don't believe it. Perhaps when you're still young you may get stronger but some of us are getting to the wrong side of our mid life crisis. No matter how much I try, I don't get stronger - my lungs run out of oxygen, my legs hurt and I get off an walk...

    I recently upgraded the chain set, a 175mm 22(I geared down from 24)-32-42 M785, on my '13 spec LTc and I replaced it with 170mm 22-30-40 M780. For me at least, I love this combination. Even though I'm near 6ft tall, I find the shorter cranks with the smaller chain rings allow me to spin that much better and keep going on the steep stuff.

    If I wasn't in Colorado perhaps I may change to 1x, however around here there seems to be three types of riding:
    1) Grunt climbing, best done in the 22
    2) Descending, great in the 40 (even if not going that fast on technical descents) as the high gear gives plenty of torque/slower cadence to remain in control
    3) for everything else (which is not much ) the 30.

    Of course, ymmv and this is a very personal, location specific thing.
    K,
    A 22 frt / 36 rear ratio is 0.611.
    A 26 frt / 44 rear ratio is 0.591.

    And, the diff between 175 and 170...
    1-170/175 = a bit less than 3%

    Now, just think about dropping 1.5 lbs off your bike by going to 1x...albeit, it'll also lighten up your bank account a bit too

    And no, 1x DOESN'T make you stronger...see above math. BUT, it does teach you to carry your momentum, since your front ring is so small. I typically spin out the gears at ~24mph w/ the 26/10 of the 1X Sram setup. But, at 24 mph, I'm not pedaling on singletracks anymore!
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  56. #4956
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    K,
    A 22 frt / 36 rear ratio is 0.611.
    A 26 frt / 44 rear ratio is 0.591.

    And, the diff between 175 and 170...
    1-170/175 = a bit less than 3%

    Now, just think about dropping 1.5 lbs off your bike by going to 1x...albeit, it'll also lighten up your bank account a bit too

    And no, 1x DOESN'T make you stronger...see above math. BUT, it does teach you to carry your momentum, since your front ring is so small. I typically spin out the gears at ~24mph w/ the 26/10 of the 1X Sram setup. But, at 24 mph, I'm not pedaling on singletracks anymore!
    It doesn't make you stronger if you select a ratio that optimizes the low gearing and not the high. If you split the difference, you'll have to adjust a bit. (I tend to optimize the low gear, which is why I upgraded from 1x10 to 1x11 as soon as I could afford it.)

  57. #4957
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    interesting topic to stumble across. I'm 47, have been riding hard since age 20, have taken my hiatuses due to life, kids, injuries, etc , but still maintain a strong level of fitness and commonly ride with guys younger.

    1x isn't going to make one stronger. Unless one is forcing oneself to ride in stronger gears, which can be accomplished with any drivetrain

    Fact: it's hard to build muscle in your 40s, and nearly impossible once you hit 50. you can maintain muscle, but building - without use of hormonal aids - is very difficult. I do believe it helps to be on a regular riding program, to cross-train when possible, to not become a complete slug during winter, take your rest days to avoid overtraining (which happens more easily these days) and to eat healthy. But there's no way to beat father time.

    I'm also of the belief that crank arm lengths and gear ratios are a matter of personal preference and terrain.

    I ride 175 cranks on my LTx, 165 on my Nomad, and have no problems jumping back n' forth.
    “Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep moving.”

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  58. #4958
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    What's wrong with 2x? If you like it, use it! I have 2x10 M780 on my TBLTc and it's great. Heck, I have 3x XT M770 on my Maverick Durance and old Klein Palomino and I have no intention of replacing them anytime soon. If and when I get around to building up another bike maybe I'll go with 1x12, but for the type of riding I do (I'm no pro) 2x10 is just fine.

    If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

  59. #4959
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    Quote Originally Posted by sikkfreerider View Post
    Has anyone tried the XT M8000 1x11 on their tblt? I'm so close to just ordering it. I think Ill go 32t up front, that should go low enough for me.

    Also the reverb is giving me troubles after its 4th rebuild. I'm going to cut a stealth routing hole and get the grommet from Santacruz. My dad has had good luck with his KS Lev. I'm just so tired of dealing with hydraulic fluid bleeding the reverb and rebuilding all the damn time.
    Hey SikkFR-
    Sorry to wake up an old post, but can you describe exactly where you cut the stealth routing hole? I'm about to do the same thing, but am torn if I should go a little above or below the front derailleur. (I'm running 2x10)
    Thanks.

  60. #4960
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schwa72 View Post
    What's wrong with 2x? If you like it, use it! I have 2x10 M780 on my TBLTc and it's great. Heck, I have 3x XT M770 on my Maverick Durance and old Klein Palomino and I have no intention of replacing them anytime soon. If and when I get around to building up another bike maybe I'll go with 1x12, but for the type of riding I do (I'm no pro) 2x10 is just fine.

    If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
    I agree with all of this. There is nothing wrong with 2x. I love my 2x system for long days in saddle. A few weeks ago I rode my TBLTc for 2 days with 2x and demoed a Bronson 2 with 1x11. I will say the last few uphills with the 1x became a chore. Eagle definitely solves any 1x argument really IMO, I personally will have it on my next bike, but I'm definitely not going to replace my 2x system on my current bikes.

    Ride what you got and have fun.

  61. #4961
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schwa72 View Post
    What's wrong with 2x? If you like it, use it! I have 2x10 M780 on my TBLTc and it's great. Heck, I have 3x XT M770 on my Maverick Durance and old Klein Palomino and I have no intention of replacing them anytime soon. If and when I get around to building up another bike maybe I'll go with 1x12, but for the type of riding I do (I'm no pro) 2x10 is just fine.

    If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
    For me, the reason was that front derailleurs are terrible. There are always compromises in their adjustment, and they are way more likely result in a failed shift (and potential chain drop) than the rear, especially in rough terrain. I figured I might be able to get by without one, and that ended up being true. On a bike where I'm doing less frantic gear changes on milder terrain, the flexibility of 2x is great.

  62. #4962
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    Quote Originally Posted by hillharman View Post
    Look into light-bicycle carbon rims on Hope hubs. Should come in around or below 1K. Fantastic wheels.
    So im not quite sure what to expect from new wheels...Id always thought of it as the gamechanger upgrade that makes a night and day difference. A trusted guy at my lbs told me that short of spending 2-3k I'm really not going to notice any kind of enormous improvement. he's aware of my budget and not trying to sell me 3k wheels so I'm inclined to believe him. Any thoughts on this? The light bicycle wheels around the 1k mark look nice but if it's only going to give me a slightly lighter stiffer ride I would rather just spend the money elsewhere (or save up) any thoughts on these lower end carbon wheels? FYI I would be upgrading from the stock WTB i7 freq wheels that retail for around $250 for the set

  63. #4963
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    Quote Originally Posted by Breaktheory View Post
    So im not quite sure what to expect from new wheels...Id always thought of it as the gamechanger upgrade that makes a night and day difference. A trusted guy at my lbs told me that short of spending 2-3k I'm really not going to notice any kind of enormous improvement. he's aware of my budget and not trying to sell me 3k wheels so I'm inclined to believe him. Any thoughts on this? The light bicycle wheels around the 1k mark look nice but if it's only going to give me a slightly lighter stiffer ride I would rather just spend the money elsewhere (or save up) any thoughts on these lower end carbon wheels? FYI I would be upgrading from the stock WTB i7 freq wheels that retail for around $250 for the set
    Because he is looking at predone wheels from a manufacturer, not custom built from a wheel builder, which will be just as good and cheaper. Wheels with LB rims aren't lower end.

    I'm selling this set if you're interested.
    Chris King/LB carbon rims - Buy and Sell Mountain Bikes and Accessories
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  64. #4964
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    But, at 24 mph, I'm not pedaling on singletracks anymore!
    Ha ha. That's the difference. At 24 mph, I'm still pedaling - even on singletrack!

    I don't mind the weight at the BB. At least it is low and centered on the bike. I'd rather have it there than as a large rotating mass, suspended at the back of the bike (Eagle, anyone?) Perhaps one day I will try a 2x or heavens, a 1x, but for now I'm not going to spend my money on it.

  65. #4965
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Because he is looking at predone wheels from a manufacturer, not custom built from a wheel builder, which will be just as good and cheaper. Wheels with LB rims aren't lower end.

    I'm selling this set if you're interested.
    Chris King/LB carbon rims - Buy and Sell Mountain Bikes and Accessories
    Nice I like the green - I'll keep in mind - I've heard about custom wheels being built but what is it you supply the builder with for them to assemble them? There's apparently a pretty well known guy in my area I've heard about but where do I get unassembled components for him to put together? I guess everything these days is made by robots?

  66. #4966
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    Hi guys, Had my TBLTC for over 3 years now but only joined the thread recently. Any TBLTC owners with DB inline put spacers?

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  67. #4967
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    Quote Originally Posted by aqteh View Post
    Hi guys, Had my TBLTC for over 3 years now but only joined the thread recently. Any TBLTC owners with DB inline put spacers?

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
    Yep, running the largest spacer in mine. I was unable to get the shock dialed into the frame for my riding style without it. Try it, you may like it, if not it's easy to remove.

  68. #4968
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    Quote Originally Posted by Breaktheory View Post
    So im not quite sure what to expect from new wheels...Id always thought of it as the gamechanger upgrade that makes a night and day difference. A trusted guy at my lbs told me that short of spending 2-3k I'm really not going to notice any kind of enormous improvement. he's aware of my budget and not trying to sell me 3k wheels so I'm inclined to believe him. Any thoughts on this? The light bicycle wheels around the 1k mark look nice but if it's only going to give me a slightly lighter stiffer ride I would rather just spend the money elsewhere (or save up) any thoughts on these lower end carbon wheels? FYI I would be upgrading from the stock WTB i7 freq wheels that retail for around $250 for the set
    Another vote for LB. hands down the best deal out there.

  69. #4969
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    Holy crap! I just changed my settings to the Intense carbine base tune with 1 large and 2 medium spacer (total 7 small spacer) and it feels more balanced with my 150mm pike! Rode in on the parking lot and small bumps are on par with existing plush settings. Now to the trails....

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  70. #4970
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    Quote Originally Posted by Breaktheory View Post
    Nice I like the green - I'll keep in mind - I've heard about custom wheels being built but what is it you supply the builder with for them to assemble them? There's apparently a pretty well known guy in my area I've heard about but where do I get unassembled components for him to put together? I guess everything these days is made by robots?
    I bought the rims and had them shipped directly to Mike at lacemine29. He has good prices on the everything else, so I bought that through him.
    OG Ripley v2
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  71. #4971
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    Quote Originally Posted by aqteh View Post
    Holy crap! I just changed my settings to the Intense carbine base tune with 1 large and 2 medium spacer (total 7 small spacer) and it feels more balanced with my 150mm pike! Rode in on the parking lot and small bumps are on par with existing plush settings. Now to the trails....

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
    There is a thread here for tuning CCDB shocks for this frame.

  72. #4972
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    Quote Originally Posted by max_lombardy View Post
    There is a thread here for tuning CCDB shocks for this frame.
    Thanks!

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  73. #4973
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    So on my 2014 fox 34 float I was told by my LBS that the oil only needs to be changed once a year...this seems to contradict the website that says every 30 hours - I'm only a weekend rider but I'd hate to do any damage - any thoughts

  74. #4974
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    Quote Originally Posted by Breaktheory View Post
    So on my 2014 fox 34 float I was told by my LBS that the oil only needs to be changed once a year...this seems to contradict the website that says every 30 hours - I'm only a weekend rider but I'd hate to do any damage - any thoughts
    If you're only a weekend rider, a yearly oil change will likely be fine. Wouldn't hurt to do it twice a year. That 30 hour service interval means 30 hours of actual riding time. Learn to change the oil yourself (super duper easy) and you will save cash and can make your fork feel like new whenever you like !

  75. #4975
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    hello - about 4 years later than everyone else on a LTC/pike 150 (but Im old so dont need the latest stuff). having said that I lied a bit - still tinkering and just put a -1.5 deg workscomponents angleset on and couldnt be happier - really and truly the best and simplest upgrade ever.
    I now need a better rear shock - have the CTDK but it isnt great. Can someone confirm the SHOCK LENGTH so I can get an aftermarket ones _ Im looking around until can find the best price float dps/evol or similar. Do I need anything else? new bolts etc. Sorry for the dumbass Q's but first rear sus bike..

  76. #4976
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    200x51mm shock. I absolutely hated the CTDK Fox that came on the LTc, switched it out to a Rockshox Monarch Plus RC3 Debonair after a month with the stock, couldn't be happier after 2500+ miles now. I've done nothing to the shock since day one except take it off for pivot maintenance and I changed out the bushings. I'm sure the latest dps/evol Fox will have similar results as they are so much nicer than the older Fox garbage.

  77. #4977
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    Anyone try a cane creek inline Compared to a rp23 pushed???

  78. #4978
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    Kevin513 is your Rockshox a L or M tune?

  79. #4979
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    Quote Originally Posted by weevie View Post
    pike 150 and just put a -1.5 deg workscomponents angleset on
    I did the exact same front end change on my 2012 Ltc. Changed to a Fox dps evol 200x51 at the same time. Coming from the stock rp23, that was a large improvement. Very happy with the value I got from this investment. Rides as well as most any other bike I've been on, including a Hightower I spent a week on recently.

  80. #4980
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpo1 View Post
    Kevin513 is your Rockshox a L or M tune?
    M tune.

  81. #4981
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    thanks - yes bike is fine. Sure I expect there are even better ones but how much better when youre an average rider? maybe 5%? I see the new indutsry gimic (sorry I mean essential bike requirement) is long, low and slack. Im sure thats great - but no help when you have very long legs so thats me out. My 26" old skool hardtail was long and low - all they have done is add slack haha

    For my LTC its just the shock that is v poor - which is a shame as hardly used and new Fox shocks in UK are very pricey and with the tanking exchange rate likely to get more so. Rockshox look cheaper from a quick search. If just as good then maybe one of those...

  82. #4982
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    Quote Originally Posted by weevie View Post
    thanks - yes bike is fine. Sure I expect there are even better ones but how much better when youre an average rider? maybe 5%? I see the new indutsry gimic (sorry I mean essential bike requirement) is long, low and slack. Im sure thats great - but no help when you have very long legs so thats me out. My 26" old skool hardtail was long and low - all they have done is add slack haha

    For my LTC its just the shock that is v poor - which is a shame as hardly used and new Fox shocks in UK are very pricey and with the tanking exchange rate likely to get more so. Rockshox look cheaper from a quick search. If just as good then maybe one of those...
    This bike is so much more capable than the numbers suggest... There is a lot more to bike geometry than most people realize. Somehow there is this idea that the only way to get a nimble bike is to shorten the chainstays, but then you have to kick out the front wheel to stabilize it. Yes this is one approach.

    I have found that on the TBLTc the short wheelbase and steeper HTA keep it really nimble, and the longer chainstays help to stabilize the bike at speed and it helps climbing as well. The numbers on this bike are very not trendy but its still one of the most bad ass bikes I've ridden.

  83. #4983
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    Quote Originally Posted by weevie View Post
    thanks - yes bike is fine. Sure I expect there are even better ones but how much better when youre an average rider? maybe 5%? I see the new indutsry gimic (sorry I mean essential bike requirement) is long, low and slack. Im sure thats great - but no help when you have very long legs so thats me out. My 26" old skool hardtail was long and low - all they have done is add slack haha

    For my LTC its just the shock that is v poor - which is a shame as hardly used and new Fox shocks in UK are very pricey and with the tanking exchange rate likely to get more so. Rockshox look cheaper from a quick search. If just as good then maybe one of those...
    Don't get caught up in the hype. The TB LTc is still a wonderfully fun bike and I will say there is only a handful of newer geometry 29ers I find as fun and as capable while still being extremely comfortable.

    As to the shock, IMO replacing the stock Fox CTD helped 100% if not more. No more wallowing in the midstroke, poor small bump sensitivity, and harsh big hits. The fox ctd just blew threw the midstroke and would be harsh on big hits. For my RS M+ Debonair I can run it in medium and it was more supple than the Fox in Descent. In open mode it pedals better than the fox in Trail. I only use firm mode on super long climbs, so I've used it like twice ever...

    Sucks that Fox is pricey for you as the new Fox stuff is fantastic, but Rockshox and Cane Creek have awesome shocks as well available.

  84. #4984
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    Quote Originally Posted by max_lombardy View Post
    This bike is so much more capable than the numbers suggest... There is a lot more to bike geometry than most people realize. Somehow there is this idea that the only way to get a nimble bike is to shorten the chainstays, but then you have to kick out the front wheel to stabilize it. Yes this is one approach.

    I have found that on the TBLTc the short wheelbase and steeper HTA keep it really nimble, and the longer chainstays help to stabilize the bike at speed and it helps climbing as well. The numbers on this bike are very not trendy but its still one of the most bad ass bikes I've ridden.

    -I've said pretty much the exact same thing and that's also "why" I'll hold onto my LTc for a while as I dial in the Hightower...
    "There's two kinds of people in this world - Walkers and Talkers." Which one are you?

  85. #4985
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    DMFT- I just sold a very nice TBLTc and actually I agree it was a great do everything bike. I would like to hear your impressions of the HT relative to the TBLTc. thanks

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    Since I'm still using the stock fox ctd 34 float fork would it be wise to only upgrade the rear and what would you recommend I upgrade to? Seems fox had come out with quite a few models since 2014

  87. #4987
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    Quote Originally Posted by fruitafrank View Post
    DMFT- I just sold a very nice TBLTc and actually I agree it was a great do everything bike. I would like to hear your impressions of the HT relative to the TBLTc. thanks
    I've been riding a TBLTc for a couple years. Went out to CO to do the Grand Junction 40 Grand and rented a HT (29er). It was was a weird thing, and I don't totally understand it. I'm 6'2" and have a L TBLTc, with 90mm stem, but got an XL HT. Stock, I found it to be way to short, vertically, in the front, so I got a slightly longer stem with a rise, and slight riser bar. It was much better, but to be honest, I did NOT find it very much more capable on the downs, and wasn't quite as good on the ups as my TBLTc. I ride it for 2 days before the race, so think I got a good feel for it, but it just didn't blow me away.

    I guess no bike is good as your own...

  88. #4988
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    Quote Originally Posted by swoodbrn View Post
    I've been riding a TBLTc for a couple years. Went out to CO to do the Grand Junction 40 Grand and rented a HT (29er). It was was a weird thing, and I don't totally understand it. I'm 6'2" and have a L TBLTc, with 90mm stem, but got an XL HT. Stock, I found it to be way to short, vertically, in the front, so I got a slightly longer stem with a rise, and slight riser bar. It was much better, but to be honest, I did NOT find it very much more capable on the downs, and wasn't quite as good on the ups as my TBLTc. I ride it for 2 days before the race, so think I got a good feel for it, but it just didn't blow me away.

    I guess no bike is good as your own...
    Hey, thanks for that report!
    I'm still quite happy with my Large LTc from May 2012. But the inkling of newbikeitis creeps in from time to time.

    A report like this is just the thing.


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  89. #4989
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    New fox dps evol is a HUGE improvement. My TBLT feels bottomless since upgrading.
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  90. #4990
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    Quote Originally Posted by xjohnx77 View Post
    New fox dps evol is a HUGE improvement. My TBLT feels bottomless since upgrading.
    Great to hear! I still love my RS M+ DB over the stock CTD but I keep eyeing the new Fox shocks as every new bike I've ridden with them has been great... I think I'd replace my RS on my Bronson V2 first though as I just love my TBLTc as is.

  91. #4991
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    Quote Originally Posted by swoodbrn View Post
    I've been riding a TBLTc for a couple years. Went out to CO to do the Grand Junction 40 Grand and rented a HT (29er). It was was a weird thing, and I don't totally understand it. I'm 6'2" and have a L TBLTc, with 90mm stem, but got an XL HT. Stock, I found it to be way to short, vertically, in the front, so I got a slightly longer stem with a rise, and slight riser bar. It was much better, but to be honest, I did NOT find it very much more capable on the downs, and wasn't quite as good on the ups as my TBLTc. I ride it for 2 days before the race, so think I got a good feel for it, but it just didn't blow me away.

    I guess no bike is good as your own...
    I'm still loving my LTc as well and have been riding it a lot more these past few weeks over my Nomad.

    Industry (yes, SRAM, I'm looking at you with your boost nonsense and 12 speed gearing) would like us to think non-current bikes suck. They don't.
    “Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep moving.”

    ― Albert Einstein

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    I completely agree with your assessment and I just bought an X01 Eagle Bronson V2, both boost and 12 speed. I still love my LTc, it's my daily ride still, the Bronson is my special day ride that will teach me a lot of things and help me to push me more on my TBLTc. I've already learned more about jumping in a week then I did in the past few years on my TBLTc.

  93. #4993
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    Lately I've been choosing to ride my 29+ hardtail and leaving my LTc in the garage, which is a bit sad. So, I've thought about putting more rubber on the Santa Cruz.

    Can anyone comment on how big a tire will fit in the rear triangle of the LTc? Thanks in advance.


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  94. #4994
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    Quote Originally Posted by reamer41 View Post
    Lately I've been choosing to ride my 29+ hardtail and leaving my LTc in the garage, which is a bit sad. So, I've thought about putting more rubber on the Santa Cruz.

    Can anyone comment on how big a tire will fit in the rear triangle of the LTc? Thanks in advance.


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    NO problems fitting Maxxis or e-thirteen 2.35 on the rear. I'm currently running, both front & rear, the e-thirteen tires. 3c front, 2c rear. Great combo.
    “Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep moving.”

    ― Albert Einstein

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    I got a big fat Ardent 2.4 in the rear with loads of room. It's got the biggest casing of any maxxis tire I've used, it's overall on par with a 2.5 wide trail DHF I have on another bike. Bigger casing,smaller knobs.
    Last edited by max_lombardy; 11-10-2016 at 05:55 PM.

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    I'm planning to put a Maxxis Minion DHF 2.5 on mine for Winter, possibly. I have been riding Vittoria Morsa's lately and like them so much I may leave them on for the Winter. The Ardent 2.4 leaves plenty of room and is a great tire but the Morsa is a bit grippier and faster.

  97. #4997
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    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread

    Thanks for the info. I've got an Ardent 2.4 front and 2.25 on the back. I'll throw another 2.4 on the back and keep my eye open in options for now.

    Will look for some Morsas. Never even heard of them before.

    Ideally I would rebuild my wheels with some wider rims. I've got early 2013 LB "wider 29er" rims that are only about 23mm internal. I'm sure some 30mm rims would help as I tried wider rubber.
    I hate the thought of new wheel build with everything moving toward boost....

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    Last edited by reamer41; 11-11-2016 at 12:05 PM.
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  98. #4998
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    Quote Originally Posted by reamer41 View Post
    Thanks for the info. I've got an Ardent 2.4 front and 2.25 on the back. I'll throw another 2.4 on the back and keep my eye open in options for now.

    Will look for some Morsas. Never even heard of them before.

    Ideally I would rebuild my wheels with some wider rims. I've got early 2013 LB "wider 29er" rims that are only about 23mm internal. I'm sure some 30mm rims would help as I tried wider rubber.
    I hate the thought of new wheel build with everything moving toward boost....

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    Hmmm...
    On my last ride on the LTc I broke a spoke on the rear wheel.

    Same ride I encountered an enthusiastic rider who said have you seen the new Tallboy at the LBS?

    So, naturally, I thought maybe I need the new Tallboy -- I just broke a spoke - this bike is shit.

    Or maybe I just need to lace up some wide carbon rims....

    (I've already put in a new spoke and trued the wheels, but a 2.4 Ardent on the back. But really, maybe time for those wide rims.)


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    It is always time for wide plastic rims.

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    And, it's gift giving time, too.

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