Page 30 of 100 FirstFirst ... 202627282930313233344080 ... LastLast
Results 1,451 to 1,500 of 4972
  1. #1451
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    1,240
    I have spent time on the LTc and compared to my Tallboy C, I found it to be really fun and easy to ride and almost just as fast. It seemed even fast on the downhills but I was impressed that it climbed so well. I found that I got so used to it that when I got back on the TallboyC it seemed strange and a bit cramped.

    I wonder how the comparisons will be now that the RIP 9 RDO is coming shortly. This is Niners attempt at going head to head with the LTc.

  2. #1452
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mlx john's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    746
    Every SC VPP bike that we receive at my LBS comes with the grease gun.

    Your dealer probably forgot to give you one.

    Wouldn't hurt to ask.
    Santa Cruz 5010 V2

  3. #1453
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    36
    A question for the people riding the 2013 spec derailleurs, especially those on 2X10.

    I was talking with the LBS and they stated that they don't put the e13 chain guide on their SPX 2X10 builds as they believe that the XT derailleurs do a good enough job of controlling the chain (they would give me the chain guide separately with the bike so that I could sell it, they're not keeping it).

    How have people found the new derailleurs' ability to control chain slap / drop? Is the chain guide really required?

    For reference my local trails are hardpack (at the moment, they turn to mud in winter) with tree roots, rocks (mostly of fist size or smaller) and are generally bumpy. Other trails in the general area which I ride occasionally have bigger drops (nothing over a few feet) and more jumps.

  4. #1454
    Mulleticious
    Reputation: BigwheelsRbest's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    1,484
    Mine came with a grease gun

  5. #1455
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    13
    Quote Originally Posted by max_croft View Post
    ^^^

    Couldn't agree more! I feel like a dirty cheat when I ride my LTc. I know I'm not a great rider, .... .
    How does one know if they are a good rider or not a good rider?
    I am a LTc owner, but I'm a pretty good road biker, I know that from speed, distance, cadence... But Im new to MTB, I read the forums and ended up with the LTc.
    I have limited experience, but I do find myself on "black run" trails, I dont find some sections easy, but I get thru them, even though they look "hairy".

    Assuming its a good bike,
    • Am I a good rider on a good bike
    • Am I a ****ty rider on a good bike?



    How to tell?

  6. #1456
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    93
    Quote Originally Posted by kzrocky View Post
    How does one know if they are a good rider or not a good rider?
    Well, I'm the slowest in the group with my friends so that's the first sign. Other things I suppose would be technique. There a things that (regardless of speed) my friends fly over or flow through more gracefully. Where as I come behind them seemingly hitting and bouncing off every rock. I'm getting better and I the more I ride the more I'm learning better ways to ride certain parts of the trail which in turn makes it much more enjoyable.

    I've also ridden these same trails on my older bike and quickly found my limit on certain terrain. Things I wouldn't dare hit on my 2004 Norco are a breeze on my LTc. In my case, I know it's the bike, but I understand where you're coming from if you're new to MTB, it's difficult to gauge. In the end, the only thing that really matters is that you're having fun!
    Santa Cruz Tallboy LTc

  7. #1457
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    305
    Almost done!!!!! Just need to trim the brake lines and that darn rear derailleur is giving me hell. And just making sure everything is all torqued. My first ever mtb build!

    Yellow TB LTc with Fox RP23 with Kashima
    Haven bars, post and stem
    Deore brakes with 180 rotors front and back
    xt shifters, rd and cassette
    AKA cranks with bling ring
    Sunringle charger experts with ardents front and back
    Fox Factory Float 29 140mm with Kashima

    Waiting for an MRP Lopes guide and she should be done!

  8. #1458
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pau11y's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    6,740
    Quote Originally Posted by ronyc View Post
    Almost done!!!!! Just need to trim the brake lines and that darn rear derailleur is giving me hell. And just making sure everything is all torqued. My first ever mtb build!
    What's going on w/ your rear mech...throw up some pics of your issues if you can? Is it DM or normal mount? I slapped a Park rear mech hanger alignment thingie on it first, and it did need a bit of tweaking... Are you using a torque wrench?
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
    ╭∩╮( º.º )╭∩╮

  9. #1459
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pau11y's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    6,740
    Quote Originally Posted by kzrocky View Post
    How does one know if they are a good rider or not a good rider?
    I am a LTc owner, but I'm a pretty good road biker, I know that from speed, distance, cadence... But Im new to MTB, I read the forums and ended up with the LTc.
    I have limited experience, but I do find myself on "black run" trails, I dont find some sections easy, but I get thru them, even though they look "hairy".

    Assuming its a good bike,
    • Am I a good rider on a good bike
    • Am I a ****ty rider on a good bike?



    How to tell?
    Here's a good way to establish a baseline...get on a 26er and ride the same trail and see how many more times you need to get off and walk. I did that recently...have a Blur LTc and a TB LTc...and I notice a lot more effort to do the same lines on the Blur vs the TB. Just be careful about really stomping down on the pedals on a 26er w/o shifting weight since they have less traction.

    Edit: oh BTW, I'm slower than snot on the ups too, but it's a fitness thing. I can generally clear most techy ups, and the TB's ride characteristics makes things a lot easier than the Blur by far!
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
    ╭∩╮( º.º )╭∩╮

  10. #1460
    Mulleticious
    Reputation: BigwheelsRbest's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    1,484
    Quote Originally Posted by ronyc View Post
    almost done!!!!! Just need to trim the brake lines and that darn rear derailleur is giving me hell. And just making sure everything is all torqued. My first ever mtb build!

    Yellow tb ltc with fox rp23 with kashima
    haven bars, post and stem
    deore brakes with 180 rotors front and back
    xt shifters, rd and cassette
    aka cranks with bling ring
    sunringle charger experts with ardents front and back
    fox factory float 29 140mm with kashima

    waiting for an mrp lopes guide and she should be done!
    pics!!

  11. #1461
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LB412's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    920
    I am considering buying the TB LTc. Found a 2012 for a great price. I actually planned to pick it up after a final test run on a friends bike in the AM. What concerns me is my friend told me to go relatively slow when descending back to town on the fire roads. His primary concern is rocks/pebbles being thrown from the front tire at "damaging" the carbon frame. What I want to know is the concern about cosmetic damage or could this actually put the frame at risk.

    I typically run down the fire roads at 40 plus on the way home. I also drop the bike from time to time on rocky technical descents... the last thing I want is to be paranoid while doing something that should be relaxing. I can live with cosmetic damage but not having to have repairs every couple of months.

  12. #1462
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mestapho's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    2,199
    Quote Originally Posted by LB412 View Post
    I am considering buying the TB LTc. Found a 2012 for a great price. I actually planned to pick it up after a final test run on a friends bike in the AM. What concerns me is my friend told me to go relatively slow when descending back to town on the fire roads. His primary concern is rocks/pebbles being thrown from the front tire at "damaging" the carbon frame. What I want to know is the concern about cosmetic damage or could this actually put the frame at risk.

    I typically run down the fire roads at 40 plus on the way home. I also drop the bike from time to time on rocky technical descents... the last thing I want is to be paranoid while doing something that should be relaxing. I can live with cosmetic damage but not having to have repairs every couple of months.
    Cosmetic damage. If you want to see how tough SC carbon is watch the pinkbike video. It's been posted many times in the SC forum.

  13. #1463
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LB412's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    920

    RAM vs. SPX

    What are the MAJOR differences between the RAM and SPX kits?

    Thanks in advance!

  14. #1464
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sikkfreerider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    169
    better components all around, that means lighter, stronger, faster everything, crisper shifting, better brakes, stiffer feel. If your really seriious about your riding get the spx you wont regret it. if you want nice components that will still be awesome and want to save money get the ram.

    on my last bike i had the ram, it was good but I always wanted to upgrade stuff after a while, on my new bike i got spx and it is everything and more
    it's not about how LONG your travel is... its's how well you use it!

  15. #1465
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LB412's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    920
    Quote Originally Posted by sikkfreerider View Post
    better components all around, that means lighter, stronger, faster everything, crisper shifting, better brakes, stiffer feel. If your really seriious about your riding get the spx you wont regret it. if you want nice components that will still be awesome and want to save money get the ram.

    on my last bike i had the ram, it was good but I always wanted to upgrade stuff after a while, on my new bike i got spx and it is everything and more
    Found a shop with 4 2012 TB LTc on sale 3 are mediums and one large. The mediums are SPX the large is RAM. I'd prefer the SPX but not sure about the fit on the medium. Riding one a few miles tomorrow. If I go with the large I can afford a few upgrades. I'm thinking forks and wheel set.

  16. #1466
    Mulleticious
    Reputation: BigwheelsRbest's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    1,484
    Quote Originally Posted by LB412 View Post
    I am considering buying the TB LTc. Found a 2012 for a great price. I actually planned to pick it up after a final test run on a friends bike in the AM. What concerns me is my friend told me to go relatively slow when descending back to town on the fire roads. His primary concern is rocks/pebbles being thrown from the front tire at "damaging" the carbon frame. What I want to know is the concern about cosmetic damage or could this actually put the frame at risk.

    I typically run down the fire roads at 40 plus on the way home. I also drop the bike from time to time on rocky technical descents... the last thing I want is to be paranoid while doing something that should be relaxing. I can live with cosmetic damage but not having to have repairs every couple of months.
    You can get the Cytoe protector just in case. Fits like a glove and very protective. Search for it in this thread

  17. #1467
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    68
    Just built, cant wait to ride. Bought as a frameset so the build is a little bit of everything for now.








  18. #1468
    007
    007 is offline
    b a n n e d
    Reputation: 007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    5,931
    Ordinarily, I think that colored cable housings look rather disgusting . . . that ^^^^ however, works well.

    Nice jerb.
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  19. #1469
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kevocastro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    440
    Nice TB right there
    Niner Jet 9
    Santa Cruz Highball Carbon

  20. #1470
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LB412's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    920
    Rode the medium this morning and it felt cramped. That leaves the option of adjusting the saddle and possibly shortening the stem to make the size large fit. Unfortunately the only option they have on sale is the RAM kit.

    The bike is 30% off MSRP(about 23% off normal shop price) so I can afford to make some upgrades. My initial thoughts are front fork, brakes, cranks, and possibly the wheelset. Pobably cant afford all so I would appreciate everyones opinion.

  21. #1471
    Dozer
    Reputation: yeahdog31's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    393
    Quote Originally Posted by LB412 View Post
    My initial thoughts are front fork, brakes, cranks, and possibly the wheelset. Pobably cant afford all so I would appreciate everyones opinion.
    Wheels/tires are always the best bang-for-buck upgrade. Grams saved/stiffness added here translates more drastically than, say, saving 30 grams off your crankset. Then I'd swap brakes next, only because I don't like Avid hydraulics very much.

  22. #1472
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    39
    Got to ride my LTc for the first time this morning, felt just as great as the day I demoed one in early summer! My Blur LT and Niner EMD will be up for sale real soon, this bike combines both of those for me and then some, lots of some! Came in at 27.5 pounds...large frame, Fox Float CTD front/back, Arch EX on 240's, combined with my 2x9 XO/Elixir CR drivetrain and brakes from my Blur LT. Also have my old Joplin 3 lever seat post on it and some orange Chris King bling here and there. Really happy with it! Pics to follow one of these days.

    I might next summer convert to the 1x11 Sram XX1 after seeing how much people love/hate it.

  23. #1473
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    179
    Got my stock 2012 Tallboy LTa R AM kit today. Looks awesome!
    I will switch some stuff from my niner RIP 9. Already switched my Thomson seatpost and WTB Rocket V SLT saddle. I will also swap the 3x10 XT crankset, XT shifters, Answer carbon bars and thomson stem from my niner.


    How good are the WTB wheels? Should I switch them for my Charger PRO wheels or should I keep the WTB with XT hub (back only)?
    Same question about the brakes; stock elixir 5 vs Hayes Prime PRO?

    Any recommendations?

    Thanks!


  24. #1474
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LB412's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    920
    I am about to purchase the same bike... Heard nothing but negatives about the brakes

  25. #1475
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    179
    Quote Originally Posted by LB412 View Post
    I am about to purchase the same bike... Heard nothing but negatives about the brakes
    I like the Hayes, but I never had those elixir so I would like to have some opinions before switching.

  26. #1476
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sikkfreerider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    169
    The elixers are alright. but the have really bad lever feel. like a lot of slop in the pull before it even stops braking. and their a ***** to bleed. I stick to shimano brakes
    it's not about how LONG your travel is... its's how well you use it!

  27. #1477
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    5,655
    Quote Originally Posted by partusa View Post
    I like the Hayes, but I never had those elixir so I would like to have some opinions before switching.
    I hated the Elixers on my Stumpjumper. Enough that I'll never own another pair of Avid brakes. I'm loving my XTs
    Ibis Mojo 3
    Carver 420 TI
    Lenz Lunchbox punkass

  28. #1478
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    305
    Ok, some pics, crappy but pics non the less...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-2012-11-29_10-13-37_98.jpg  

    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-2012-11-29_10-13-47_155.jpg  

    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-2012-11-29_10-14-19_56.jpg  

    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-2012-11-29_10-14-48_156.jpg  

    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-2012-11-27_08-30-04_956.jpg  


  29. #1479
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    1,240
    PartUSA, I would recommend you keep the i23 WTB wheels, they are just as well as Arch's and with the same width going tubeless will give you a wide footprint. They're good wheels, save your money and get some XT brakes, great stopping power, and quiet!

    I'm curious, you say you had a RIP 9 Niner? What switched you over from CVA to VPP? Many people seem to believe the CVA is superior suspension platform. What are your impressions between both bikes? I'm interested to hear your view.

  30. #1480
    Mulleticious
    Reputation: BigwheelsRbest's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    1,484
    Quote Originally Posted by Rev. 14 View Post
    PartUSA, I would recommend you keep the i23 WTB wheels, they are just as well as Arch's and with the same width going tubeless will give you a wide footprint. They're good wheels, save your money and get some XT brakes, great stopping power, and quiet!

    I'm curious, you say you had a RIP 9 Niner? What switched you over from CVA to VPP? Many people seem to believe the CVA is superior suspension platform. What are your impressions between both bikes? I'm interested to hear your view.
    I know nothing about the merits of CVA and VPP, but I've always thought rear suspension that acts in an almost "direct" line i.e. TBLTc, Specialized Stumpjumper etc is more efficient than suspension "pivoted" to act in a different line... (like the OLDER Stumpjumpers or Niner RIP 9)...?

  31. #1481
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pau11y's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    6,740
    Quote Originally Posted by BigwheelsRbest View Post
    ...I've always thought rear suspension that acts in an almost "direct" line i.e. TBLTc, Specialized Stumpjumper etc is more efficient than suspension "pivoted" to act in a different line... (like the OLDER Stumpjumpers or Niner RIP 9)...?
    Wut?
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
    ╭∩╮( º.º )╭∩╮

  32. #1482
    father, mountain biker
    Reputation: shredjunkie's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    192
    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Wut?
    If a suspension system has a single pivot, the rear wheel will rotate around the pivot instead of moving straight up and down. Imagine if he wheel was allowed to travel 90 degrees, it would end up directly above the pivot point.

    VPP and some other suspension systems implement more complex pivot mechanisms to force the wheel to travel in a more direct up-and-down motion.
    "He seems quite arrogant and ignores quite some valid points." -Millfox
    "I don't like you" -ne_dan

  33. #1483
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LB412's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    920
    Quote Originally Posted by jamminadi View Post
    Got to ride my LTc for the first time this morning, felt just as great as the day I demoed one in early summer! My Blur LT and Niner EMD will be up for sale real soon, this bike combines both of those for me and then some, lots of some! Came in at 27.5 pounds...large frame, Fox Float CTD front/back, Arch EX on 240's, combined with my 2x9 XO/Elixir CR drivetrain and brakes from my Blur LT. Also have my old Joplin 3 lever seat post on it and some orange Chris King bling here and there. Really happy with it! Pics to follow one of these days.

    I might next summer convert to the 1x11 Sram XX1 after seeing how much people love/hate it.
    How tall are you? I am struggling to decide if I should get a M or a L. The shop is trying to convince me that a M with a slight seat adjust and stem length is the way to go. The bike would probably feel pretty good with those adjustments. The only remaining concern is I prefer flat pedals. I couldn't avoid feeling that my feet were going to hit the tires on sharp turns. Not sure if this is the situation associated with 29ers or the size.

    Thoughts?

  34. #1484
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    179
    Quote Originally Posted by Rev. 14 View Post
    PartUSA, I would recommend you keep the i23 WTB wheels, they are just as well as Arch's and with the same width going tubeless will give you a wide footprint. They're good wheels, save your money and get some XT brakes, great stopping power, and quiet!

    I'm curious, you say you had a RIP 9 Niner? What switched you over from CVA to VPP? Many people seem to believe the CVA is superior suspension platform. What are your impressions between both bikes? I'm interested to hear your view.
    Unfortunately I cannot give you any feedback because I was not able to take the tallboy to the trail yet. I will post some comments after the weekend.
    The niner is a great bike, but I prefer something with a little bit more travel. I can also say that the paint on my hot tamale niner SUCKS, paint chips everywhere! (check the forums).

  35. #1485
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LB412's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    920
    Need some help:
    Im 5'10 and trying to decide between a M or L TB LTc. Shop is pushing a M with a slightly longer stem and a saddle adjust. I rode a friends M on a 5 mile trail and it felt a bit cramped when climbing. Though this was without any adjustments. Also, I use flat pedals and couldn't shake the feeling that my feet would contact the front wheel on aggressive turns. Not sure if the latter would change much with a 1" size increase. I am also new to 29s so this could be the norm and something that goes away with more time on the bike.

    The M is the SPX build the L is RAM. Both are 2012 and 30% off MSRP.

    Thanks in advance for the input

  36. #1486
    Mulleticious
    Reputation: BigwheelsRbest's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    1,484
    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Wut?
    Yeah, I know, I'm not good at explaining it - if I could sketch it I'd show you what I mean...

  37. #1487
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    160
    As far as I know... short stem for descending and longer stem for climbing... it is going to be depending on your riding style... I was in the edge from a small and a medium SL29er... I went for a small, bad choice... better a longer size with small stem... good luck!!!

  38. #1488
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    1,240
    Quote Originally Posted by LB412 View Post
    Need some help:
    Im 5'10 and trying to decide between a M or L TB LTc. Shop is pushing a M with a slightly longer stem and a saddle adjust. I rode a friends M on a 5 mile trail and it felt a bit cramped when climbing. Though this was without any adjustments. Also, I use flat pedals and couldn't shake the feeling that my feet would contact the front wheel on aggressive turns. Not sure if the latter would change much with a 1" size increase. I am also new to 29s so this could be the norm and something that goes away with more time on the bike.

    The M is the SPX build the L is RAM. Both are 2012 and 30% off MSRP.

    Thanks in advance for the input
    I'm the same height and own a Tallboy C in a large and it feels great. Spent time on the trail with the LTC and I rode the Lagre and it felt very comfortable, like perfect. I say go with a large, especially if you felt the med was cramped. At our heights we are on edges for a Med or Large, but again, go with a large.

  39. #1489
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LB412's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    920
    The shop just called. One of the M SPX is labeled incorrectly. Its actually an L. I asked them to add stem legnth to the M and change to a 60mm from a 70mm on the L. Planning to try both in the morning and hopefully have a new bike for the weekend. My bet is I'll be going home with the L.

    Thanks for the input. I'll let you know how it goes

  40. #1490
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    179
    Quote Originally Posted by LB412 View Post
    The shop just called. One of the M SPX is labeled incorrectly. Its actually an L. I asked them to add stem legnth to the M and change to a 60mm from a 70mm on the L. Planning to try both in the morning and hopefully have a new bike for the weekend. My bet is I'll be going home with the L.

    Thanks for the input. I'll let you know how it goes
    I'm 5'10, bought a medium LTa. I had Stumpy 29 and Niner RIP 9, both large (got good deals on both). The guy from Specialized recommended a medium and he was right. The large is too big. I'll see how the medium tallboy feels on the trail this weekend.

  41. #1491
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LB412's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    920
    Im on a L Intense Spider now. Right or wrong fit I have become accustomed to the feel of the bigger bike... which is another reason this has been a challenge. Its tough to go against the "experts" at the shop (who suggest the M). I'll try both again in the morning and let you guys know how it goes.

  42. #1492
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    305

  43. #1493
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pau11y's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    6,740
    Ronyc,
    Thanks! But that's a pretty high price for a CroMo railed saddle...

    Edit: plus, I just found me a set of M988 brakes for a good price and the TB fund is drained again
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
    ╭∩╮( º.º )╭∩╮

  44. #1494
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Dpca10's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    200
    5'11" With a Large LT: 50 cm stem + wide bars = bad ass mountain machine

  45. #1495
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    305
    Just realized that too, no worries.

  46. #1496
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LB412's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    920
    Went with the size L and a 60mm stem. Once I got the saddle height right it fit like a glove. I added the HT AE02 flat pedals in orange... looks pretty rad. I'll post photos when I pick it up on Sunday.

  47. #1497
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    39
    Quote Originally Posted by LB412 View Post
    How tall are you? I am struggling to decide if I should get a M or a L. The shop is trying to convince me that a M with a slight seat adjust and stem length is the way to go. The bike would probably feel pretty good with those adjustments. The only remaining concern is I prefer flat pedals. I couldn't avoid feeling that my feet were going to hit the tires on sharp turns. Not sure if this is the situation associated with 29ers or the size.

    Thoughts?
    I'm 6'0", 32-33 inch inseam, and to me the large is just right. I was for sure more stretched out on my old Blur LT that was also a large. A buddy of mine who I ride with once and awhile is 6'1" and went with an XL, but 60 mm stem and thinks that's fine for him. I know when I look at the bike sitting there it looks big. But when I am on it, it feels and rides great. I could maybe drop to 60-70mm stem for me, though don't want to sacrifice any climbing/wandering. So for now till I have had the bike for awhile and ridden it on a bunch of stuff, 80mm feels great. I also ride clipped in, so don't have issues with the shoes hitting the tires. Though it's kind of raked out for a 29er, so you shouldn't have an issue with whatever shoes/pedals (flats) you use. To be safe, maybe demo a M and L!

    On a side note...why are posts being reshuffled a few days back, anyone know? I posted this as the last post the other day, then just now realized it wasn't towards the end.

  48. #1498
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LB412's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    920
    I went with the L and a 60 stem. Once I dialed in the saddle height it fit perfectly and front tire shoe is a non issue. Ill post a few pics after I pick it up on Tuesday.

    Thanks for the help everyone.

  49. #1499
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    13
    Im 5'11 and need large.
    My palms dont drag along the ground, but my body is a bit longer than my legs.
    Ok OK im short legged. But I have a big foot!

  50. #1500
    CoopermanGSA
    Reputation: CoopermanGSA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    2
    I'm coming from 26 wheels and have the TB LTC on demo for the weekend.

    First impressions are very good in terms of flattening out the trail - to the point where you can easily be drawn into going for things you would never think of attempting previously but the penalty for failure is higher

    One negative is I bottomed out on the pedals over a flat lumpy rocky path. Not sure if I have got the set up right or this is normal for the bike

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •