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  1. #1001
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    My next bike will defintely be a Santa Tallboy LT! Like to see all of your photos. Beyond!!
    Assiduus usus uni rei deditus et ingenium et artem saepe vincit

  2. #1002
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gutch View Post
    Here is my ride. 26.36 # with reverb, and large rotors. XTR w/ XT crank. 2x10, Roval Carbon wheels. I like to call it "Mr. T"
    Quote Originally Posted by tonloc08 View Post
    Changed my setup to 1x10 with 32t bling ring, swapped out talas fork for float, and switched rear dérailleur to xo type 2. Got my LTc down to 24 lbs flat.
    Those are some impressive builds guys! Nicely done. Hey Gutch are you running your Ikons tubeless, if so did you have any grief mounting them up on the Rovals?

  3. #1003
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    Thanks, yes tubeless. No problems. I always use soap and compressor.

  4. #1004
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    YIPPIE, just got my order form for Fox. Whatta deal. As much as i love it I hope there is no snow on the ground in early october. Spending all my ski money on a bike. But, i digress

    Anyone using those cheap chinese wheels on the LTc? I keep hearing about them but dont know anything about em. Will they hold up to a pretty good pounding? If not, ill be running Stans.

  5. #1005
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    Quote Originally Posted by hrindo View Post
    YIPPIE, just got my order form for Fox. Whatta deal. As much as i love it I hope there is no snow on the ground in early october. Spending all my ski money on a bike. But, i digress

    Anyone using those cheap chinese wheels on the LTc? I keep hearing about them but dont know anything about em. Will they hold up to a pretty good pounding? If not, ill be running Stans.
    There is a huge cheap Chinese carbon thread with lots of info.

  6. #1006
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr.Gonzo View Post
    My next bike will defintely be a Santa Tallboy LT! Like to see all of your photos. Beyond!!
    Like photos? Here's some more stoke...

    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-imageuploadedbytapatalk1346908884.551026.jpg

    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-imageuploadedbytapatalk1346908905.305275.jpg

    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-imageuploadedbytapatalk1346908941.531110.jpg

    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-imageuploadedbytapatalk1346908966.660041.jpg

    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-imageuploadedbytapatalk1346909015.867921.jpg

    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-imageuploadedbytapatalk1346909079.280858.jpg

    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-imageuploadedbytapatalk1346909096.646616.jpg

    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-imageuploadedbytapatalk1346909111.626497.jpg

    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-imageuploadedbytapatalk1346909130.481596.jpg

    Photos were taken In Grand Lake, Colorado this Labor Day weekend.

  7. #1007
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    That is some beautiful country

  8. #1008
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    Fine country indeed. I don't care much for golf (I abandoned the game after biking took too much of my time ) but I have to say that this was one mighty fine looking golf course I biked next to.

    The bike is overlooking the (what is claimed to be) the country's highest golf course with grass greens.

  9. #1009
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerryn View Post
    Fine country indeed. I don't care much for golf (I abandoned the game after biking took too much of my time ) but I have to say that this was one mighty fine looking golf course I biked next to.

    The bike is overlooking the (what is claimed to be) the country's highest golf course with grass greens.
    K, have you taken your wagon wheel'd canary to Hall Ranch? Curious how well it did? Going up Sun

    Oh, so tried my Time ATACs again (fvcking POS!)...didn't release when I needed it to (again!) and tumbled into rocks. Gave me a chance to test out that 14mil helicopter tape...couldn't find where the stays hit rock unless I looked really close. Only then did I find a lightly scuffed area where it contacted
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  10. #1010
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    Quote Originally Posted by max_croft View Post
    After a few back and forth emails with frameskin, it was discovered that the only difference between the regular Tallboy and the LT as far as protection goes was the guard on the down tube. After sending off a tracing of the protector, he was able to modify the down tube piece to fit on my LT.

    I imagine since he made one to suit mine, he would soon have them as a package. But in the meantime, just email them and tell them you have an LT and need a frameskin to suit. They're not the quickest with replying to emails, but the product more than makes up for it -- all the important bits are covered and it's damn near invisible.

    could you forward me the email exchange you had with them or who you spoke with? I have been emailing them and they have told me that 50% of the parts won't work?

  11. #1011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    wagon wheel'd canary
    Haha. That made me laugh harder than it probably should have

    My 4 year old niece named my bike before I even had a chance. As I was wheeling it into the garage, her eyes opened wide and huge grin spread across her face, she pointed at my bike and exclaimed, "Fluttershy!!" I had no idea what she was talking about but I thought it sounded like a pretty unique name, so I went with it.

    I later discovered its origin when I introduced my new bike by name to a friend. He laughed himself silly and says it's too late to change now and that I would upset my niece if I did.
    Santa Cruz Tallboy LTc

  12. #1012
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    Quote Originally Posted by max_croft View Post
    "Fluttershy!!"
    Dude, if you have one of these canaries and you want to make that little girl giddy beyond real, all I have to say is: Pretty and Strong 2011 | Chris King Precision Components
    Actually, I think that'd be a pretty sick build theme for a mud-honey to rock on our local trails (IIRC, I think there is a local team called the Mud Honies...)!

    FYI, I had to Google that quote
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  13. #1013
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cult Hero View Post
    could you forward me the email exchange you had with them or who you spoke with? I have been emailing them and they have told me that 50% of the parts won't work?
    I've been speaking with Alan and he's right. Ever since I put on the Tallboy skin, a lot of the edges are lifting up and dirt is getting under it. It seemed fine at the time, but on closer inspection, the width of the chainstays, top tube, etc are wider than the Tallboy. I told him this two weeks ago and he said he's got an LT frame coming in which was supposed to arrive last week. Unfortunately, there is only one distributor for Santa Cruz in Australia which is why it took over 3 months for me to get my bike.

    I did email them again tonight and he said he's still waiting on the frame. But once he gets the frame, it'll take no more than a few days to get a template of it. It sucks, because I'm waiting for an LT skin too. I'm just using some old helicopter tape to keep the edges down while I wait for a proper skin to come.

    Don't worry man, when it arrives, you'll be glad you waited.
    Santa Cruz Tallboy LTc

  14. #1014
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Dude, if you have one of these canaries and you want to make that little girl giddy beyond real, all I have to say is: Pretty and Strong 2011 | Chris King Precision Components

    Oh hells no! What are you trying to do to me? -- Although I will say you found the exact colour which is kinda scary!

    FYI, I had to Google that quote
    I'm so sorry to be the person to make you delete your browser history.
    Santa Cruz Tallboy LTc

  15. #1015
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    Quote Originally Posted by max_croft View Post
    Oh hells no! What are you trying to do to me? -- Although I will say you found the exact colour which is kinda scary!



    I'm so sorry to be the person to make you delete your browser history.
    Dunno why you're afraid of that color. I rock it and it's a pretty damn good looking bike in my opinion. I guess mine is a more "darksider" Fluttershy
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-trek_5.9_01.jpg  

    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  16. #1016
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    Quote Originally Posted by max_croft View Post
    I've been speaking with Alan and he's right. Ever since I put on the Tallboy skin, a lot of the edges are lifting up and dirt is getting under it. It seemed fine at the time, but on closer inspection, the width of the chainstays, top tube, etc are wider than the Tallboy. I told him this two weeks ago and he said he's got an LT frame coming in which was supposed to arrive last week. Unfortunately, there is only one distributor for Santa Cruz in Australia which is why it took over 3 months for me to get my bike.

    I did email them again tonight and he said he's still waiting on the frame. But once he gets the frame, it'll take no more than a few days to get a template of it. It sucks, because I'm waiting for an LT skin too. I'm just using some old helicopter tape to keep the edges down while I wait for a proper skin to come.

    Don't worry man, when it arrives, you'll be glad you waited.
    Good to know. Thanks!

  17. #1017
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    K, have you taken your wagon wheel'd canary to Hall Ranch? Curious how well it did? Going up Sun

    Oh, so tried my Time ATACs again (fvcking POS!)...didn't release when I needed it to (again!) and tumbled into rocks. Gave me a chance to test out that 14mil helicopter tape...couldn't find where the stays hit rock unless I looked really close. Only then did I find a lightly scuffed area where it contacted
    No not yert. I was tentatively going to Winter Park but that probably isn't happening now. Perhaps I may head that one Sunday myself. If you're for early morning and don't mind someone a little slower than you on the downhills I may meet up with you. PM me when you think you may go..

    BTW, I've never had problems with my ATACs so you're using them wrong!

  18. #1018
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    Quote Originally Posted by max_croft View Post
    "Fluttershy!!"
    Should I be worried that my first guess when seeing this name, was that it was from My Little Pony?

  19. #1019
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    K,
    Your next upgrade to keep your Strava KOM...a set of those "cheap" carbon rims built to some Kings running ceramic bearings
    Here's a write up by someone who sells custom wheel builds: (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims? - Page 95 - Mtbr Forums

    I'll tell ya, I can echo the stiffness! With the size/mass of the rubber I'm running, it feels sluggish on the ups. But when going down and I start flicking the bike, there is NO give on these wheels built w/ the Light-Bicycle rims, especially noticeable when you come down sideways on the wheels!
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  20. #1020
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    Nice wheels.

    I have to take it easy this weekend. I wiped out pretty good on Thursday night. Broke my helmet and got multiple skin abrasions from me chin, shoulder all the was down to my knee. That's what happens when you do a superman off the bike at 15-20mph into a bunch of rocks.

    The bike appeared to come out of it with out incident. So that's good

    I'm going to change my tires back to the Ardents. I just don't have the grip I need with the Ikons. I think I'll save the Ikons for the spring before the trails turn to the moon dust we have now.

    Plus side of the ride? I got another KOM . And no that wasn't the reason I crashed.

    I only crash when I relax on the trail. When I go full bore I keep focus and don't crash. Motto? Ride harder!

  21. #1021
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerryn View Post
    I only crash when I relax on the trail. When I go full bore I keep focus and don't crash. Motto? Ride harder!
    Yup...same sort of thing happens when you ride DH. But in that case, it's "commit".

    Good to hear your bike came out of it okay. You... chics dig scars and body bits grow back. If I can grow bikes, I wouldn't worry about crashing

    Seriously tho, are you finding your brakes sufficient for the 29er? With some 180/160, frt/rr, I'm finding the Codes (DH class brakes) are being overwhelmed a bit... I may have to readjust my braking distances because of the additional leverage=>torque of the larger diameter wheels! COMIN' IN HOT!
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  22. #1022
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    Pau11y, any more time on the Marzocchi fork? Would love to hear how it stacks up against the Fox 34. Personally, I bought a new 2012 Rockshox Revelation RCT3 take-off of a gentleman's SC TB LTc this week and anxious to throw it on and see for myself, just waiting on new bars.
    konahonzo

  23. #1023
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Yup...same sort of thing happens when you ride DH. But in that case, it's "commit".

    Good to hear your bike came out of it okay. You... chics dig scars and body bits grow back. If I can grow bikes, I wouldn't worry about crashing

    Seriously tho, are you finding your brakes sufficient for the 29er? With some 180/160, frt/rr, I'm finding the Codes (DH class brakes) are being overwhelmed a bit... I may have to readjust my braking distances because of the additional leverage=>torque of the larger diameter wheels! COMIN' IN HOT!
    I'm using xtr trail brake which have been money. 180 front, 160 rear.

  24. #1024
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Seriously tho, are you finding your brakes sufficient for the 29er? With some 180/160, frt/rr
    I have had little issue with the 180/160 XTs. Modulation and power are great. the only issue is that I find that they can rub/not retract all the time. A quick dab of the brakes fixes that.

    So far the limits of my braking power is defined by the limits of tire adhesion to the ground not on the hydraulics.

  25. #1025
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Pau11y, any more time on the Marzocchi fork? Would love to hear how it stacks up against the Fox 34. Personally, I bought a new 2012 Rockshox Revelation RCT3 take-off of a gentleman's SC TB LTc this week and anxious to throw it on and see for myself, just waiting on new bars.
    E,
    So the used one (2011?) I picked up was no different than a 34, except it's smoother. I don't think it's entirely broken in yet either... It's stiffness isn't any more or less so than the 34, except when I pitch the bike over hard in the tight switchbacks. Now, I got my hands on a new 2012, and a new black set of lowers. I rebuilt the new fork w/ black lowers and extended the travel to 140mm. Out of the box, it's a bit notchy...like the seals are too tight. I had a 55 Micro Ti that broke in after about 50 miles of DHing...it became unbelievably smooth and sensitive to the smallest trail irregularities. I hope to get the same results w/ the 44s.
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  26. #1026
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    Can anyone help me with stem height set-up on my tallboy LTC?
    I'm 6ft on a large and dont really know where to start.
    My handlebars have a 3/4" rise and im running a 70mm stem on a fox 34 float.

  27. #1027
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    Quote Originally Posted by murrdogg11 View Post
    I'm 6ft on a large and dont really know where to start.
    My handlebars have a 3/4" rise and im running a 70mm stem on a fox 34 float.
    That sounds exactly like my setup...(when I had a 34 on the bike). I have a Marz 44 on it now, but pretty much the same A2C length.
    Easton Havoc DHc 750mm to a Thomson 4x 90*, 70mm...sitting w/ a 1/8" spacer between the HS's compression wedge and the stem.
    I'm dead level w/ my WTB Rocket V on a Reverb 355/100mm post buried to max against the frame (33" inseam, 6ft tall).
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  28. #1028
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    Quote Originally Posted by murrdogg11 View Post
    Can anyone help me with stem height set-up on my tallboy LTC?
    I'm 6ft on a large and dont really know where to start.
    My handlebars have a 3/4" rise and im running a 70mm stem on a fox 34 float.
    What are you trying to achieve?

    The placement of the bars to a rider is a very personal thing. It depends on your terrain and riding style.

    I'm 5'11" on a large. Currently I ride a 60mm stem but I'm changing it out to a 70mm. I have my stem positioned down by the headset to have it as low as possible. For me the 60mm is fine for most rides but I want just that little extra weight over the front end for climbing and fast XC cornering so I'm adding 10mm to the stem. Height wise I find the stem with the Haven's to be perfect for me at its lowest setting.

    This may be good for you if you are riding aggressive XC trails. If you are more AM/gravity you may do better with a shorter stem and perhaps more rise.

    In the end there is no "right" answer. It is whatever feels right to you and your style of riding.

  29. #1029
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    That sounds exactly like my setup...(when I had a 34 on the bike). I have a Marz 44 on it now, but pretty much the same A2C length.
    Easton Havoc DHc 750mm to a Thomson 4x 90*, 70mm...sitting w/ a 1/8" spacer between the HS's compression wedge and the stem.
    I'm dead level w/ my WTB Rocket V on a Reverb 355/100mm post buried to max against the frame (33" inseam, 6ft tall).
    sounds like a good place to start.

  30. #1030
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerryn View Post
    What are you trying to achieve?

    The placement of the bars to a rider is a very personal thing. It depends on your terrain and riding style.

    I'm 5'11" on a large. Currently I ride a 60mm stem but I'm changing it out to a 70mm. I have my stem positioned down by the headset to have it as low as possible. For me the 60mm is fine for most rides but I want just that little extra weight over the front end for climbing and fast XC cornering so I'm adding 10mm to the stem. Height wise I find the stem with the Haven's to be perfect for me at its lowest setting.

    This may be good for you if you are riding aggressive XC trails. If you are more AM/gravity you may do better with a shorter stem and perhaps more rise.

    In the end there is no "right" answer. It is whatever feels right to you and your style of riding.
    Thanks for that. yeah i would say my style is a little more AM than cross country...definitely some steep technical descents and climbs here on the north shore.

    I know how stem length affects how easy the front tire comes off the ground, but what about stem height?
    would higher or lower help me keep the front end down on technical climbs?

  31. #1031
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    Quote Originally Posted by murrdogg11 View Post

    I know how stem length affects how easy the front tire comes off the ground, but what about stem height?
    would higher or lower help me keep the front end down on technical climbs?
    All else being equal, a lower bar will make it easier to keep the front wheel down on steep climbs.
    --Reamer

  32. #1032
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    Quote Originally Posted by murrdogg11 View Post
    I know how stem length affects how easy the front tire comes off the ground, but what about stem height?
    would higher or lower help me keep the front end down on technical climbs?
    Well that is a balance. A lower longer stem will make the climbing easier but will have a detrimental effect on descending techical terrain. A short stem with more rise will give the opposite effect.

    On the Front Range we also have steep climbs and precipitous descends to contend with. For climbing I found the 60mm lacking but great for descending. However I am a lousy climber but an okay descender so I have opted to tip my "balance point" more towards the climbing to help me there. Plus I do a lot of cross country type trails were the stem choice is less critical but still would benefit from being on the longer side.

    Can we get a hydraulically adjustable stem (like a seatpost) for ultimate adjustability?

  33. #1033
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    Quote Originally Posted by reamer41 View Post
    All else being equal, a lower bar will make it easier to keep the front wheel down on steep climbs.
    ...but will make the front end kinda scary on steep downs. Altho, w/ the use of a dropper post, this can be negated.

    I spec'd my 90-degree stem on the basis of a compromise between good/acceptable up and down performance...level to my saddle at best pedaling position. I have about 1/4" of fudge room on the 44's steerer (but none on that 34 that was just returned to Fox for a warranty on the CSU for creaking/popping). If additional rise/drop is needed, then I'll need to get another rising stem (and flipping it for a drop as needed). I don't ever see a need for a drop stem, unless a 150 or 160mm 29er fork comes to market...but then there's the 3/4" rise at the bar I can loose first (I have a couple of those Sunline 765 DH flat bars I can go to).
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  34. #1034
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    Pau11y,
    Back to the carbon rims, ive been over that thread a number of times (when i have the time) and im wondering about which company people have ordered from. Are you happy with the Light-Bicycles place? I ve also done a google search and found Alibaba.com. All these places look a bit sketch. I weigh in at 190 riding weight. do alot of Tahoe AM/XC. Slightly tough on my gear. Was thinking about Stans. Bout ot order my Chris Kings (green). Which weave are you using? Why? thanks

  35. #1035
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    Quote Originally Posted by hrindo View Post
    Pau11y,
    Back to the carbon rims, ive been over that thread a number of times (when i have the time) and im wondering about which company people have ordered from. Are you happy with the Light-Bicycles place? I ve also done a google search and found Alibaba.com. All these places look a bit sketch. I weigh in at 190 riding weight. do alot of Tahoe AM/XC. Slightly tough on my gear. Was thinking about Stans. Bout ot order my Chris Kings (green). Which weave are you using? Why? thanks
    Mine are the Light-Bicycle "wider" and heavier 29er AM rims, 32h drilling, w/ the 3K weave cosmetic/sacrificial layer in gloss finish.

    Heavier: because I plan on not babying the wheels. I'm coming from a DH background and may plow into things a bit faster and more frequently than most. This is why I'm also using those heavy-ass rubber (Conti Trail King 2.4s @ 1100g each).

    32h drilling: wheel stiffness and better load distribution. I'm also using DT Comps...I used alloy nipples everywhere except brass on the drive side rear. As you've seen, many on that thread build w/ 28h and DT Revo spokes...yeah...NO!

    3K weave: denser weave to distribute the stresses from spoke holes. Krispy from Go-Ride got a set w/ 12K weave. It looks pretty amazing too! It's a cosmetic layer, but vs the UD layer, the weave can add to the rims structural strength also. The UD cosmetic layer...I just can't see how it can add to the rim.

    Gloss: so I can use the packing tape method to repair. I scratched up my rims on its first ride. I'll post pics on how to repair the scratches w/ epoxy, rubbing alcohol, and packing tape in the next few days...
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  36. #1036
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    Well post count is up so i though i would add a couple of pictures of mine.

    Sorry just relised its in the wrong section
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-ccdb-air.jpg  

    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-photo-1.jpg  

    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-photo-2.jpg  

    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-photo.jpg  

    Last edited by jonesy07; 09-11-2012 at 01:03 AM. Reason: sorry wrong thread !!

  37. #1037
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    A Tallboy LT that is not. Looks good though.
    konahonzo

  38. #1038
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Looks good though.
    +1
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  39. #1039
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    Thanks for the input on bar height guys.

  40. #1040
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    +2 love that red

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    [QUOTE=Pau11y;9677287]Mine are the Light-Bicycle "wider" and heavier 29er AM rims, 32h drilling, w/ the 3K weave cosmetic/sacrificial layer in gloss finish.


    Thanks man, that helps a lot. Still not sure if ill pull the trigger for these guys, expecially on my first major build. But, ive got them on my radar.

  42. #1042
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    [QUOTE=hrindo;9680747]
    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Mine are the Light-Bicycle "wider" and heavier 29er AM rims, 32h drilling, w/ the 3K weave cosmetic/sacrificial layer in gloss finish.


    Thanks man, that helps a lot. Still not sure if ill pull the trigger for these guys, expecially on my first major build. But, ive got them on my radar.
    Yeah, if you're not ready to commit, don't demo carbon wheels. They're different...
    I have some Reynolds and DT Swiss carbons. These "cheap" rims...they don't loose anything to the name branded ones. Not going to try Enves...simply can't afford them.
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  43. #1043
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    Now for something completely different...

    If any of you wanted some of that fake carbon stuff that SC uses on their downtube protection on their plastic-fantastic bikes, and don't want to chop your left nut off to pay for it (the SC price is recocqulous!), check out that link below:
    Gloss Black 3M DI-NOC Carbon Fiber DINOC Flex Wrap CA-1170 48"x12" : Amazon.com : Automotive

    Here's the stuff applied on a Jedi:
    My 2012 Jedi

    3M Di-Noc... the stuff has pretty good abrasion resistance. To my knowledge, the stuff doesn't typically come w/ the foamy backing SC supplies, but does have some pretty good 3M peel/stick glue. I'm thinking this stuff would be pretty ideal for the non-driveside stays and the outer and lower portion of fork lowers.

    Disclaimer: I'm not affiliated w/ anyone I've mentioned.
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  44. #1044
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonesy07 View Post
    Well post count is up so i though i would add a couple of pictures of mine.

    Sorry just relised its in the wrong section
    FWTW, thats 1 nice Blur!!
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  45. #1045
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    FAIL!

    A couple mile into a ride today the freehub (DT 240s) started spinning. What an ugly sound!

    MTBing since 1987 and this is my first freehub failure. Bummer. Guess it time to price out a King hubs and maybe some cheap Chinese carbon rims... Meantime...
    Is this likely just a freehub swap or do these take out the hub when the fail? I'm not familiar with the DT Swiss hub innards.
    --Reamer

  46. #1046
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    Quote Originally Posted by reamer41 View Post
    I'm not familiar with the DT Swiss hub innards.
    DT 240s are really easy to service/repair! Unless it's the driveshell's internals that's stripped out, you should be able to just take it apart and clean things up...
    So when you say it's just spinning...do you mean it absolutely refused to engage after that, or was it intermittently catching? The way the innards are is a floating clutch (star ratchet) that's on a pretty light spring backing. So if the tracks on the driveshell or hub shell gets gooey and the floating clutch plates (one on the hub side, and one on the driveshell side) bind or get's stuck, no more engagement and things spin. Also, if that spring breaks...same program. How old are your 240s, and is the driveshell the alloy one or the steel one? If you go the route of sending it to DT in Grand Junction, CO, ask if they have any steel driveshells to replace the alloy one (if that's what you have).

    Oh, when I rebuild, I just use motor oil, not grease...same w/ Hadleys and Kings. ..motor oil. I use 20/50 wt intended for high mileage cars.

    If you service it your self, take pics.
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  47. #1047
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    DT 240s are really easy to service/repair! Unless it's the driveshell's internals that's stripped out, you should be able to just take it apart and clean things up...
    So when you say it's just spinning...do you mean it absolutely refused to engage after that, or was it intermittently catching? The way the innards are is a floating clutch (star ratchet) that's on a pretty light spring backing. So if the tracks on the driveshell or hub shell gets gooey and the floating clutch plates (one on the hub side, and one on the driveshell side) bind or get's stuck, no more engagement and things spin. Also, if that spring breaks...same program. How old are your 240s, and is the driveshell the alloy one or the steel one? If you go the route of sending it to DT in Grand Junction, CO, ask if they have any steel driveshells to replace the alloy one (if that's what you have).

    Oh, when I rebuild, I just use motor oil, not grease...same w/ Hadleys and Kings. ..motor oil. I use 20/50 wt intended for high mileage cars.

    If you service it your self, take pics.
    intermittent engagement. The first couple times I thought it was a bad shift and kept on riding. A few more times and it would spin more than catch.

    Costed, walked,got a ride home and pulled it apart. Star rachet teeth look a bit chipped. Sprins and hub and hub body look fine. Cleaned and put a lighter oil on reassembled, and still slipping. I think the teeth are shot.

    I got the bike & hub in early June and haven't put nearly enough miles on it. Hardly broken in. I'm out of shape and there's no way I was torquing the thing enough to strip teeth off the hub.Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-imageuploadedbytapatalk1347517103.599457.jpg
    --Reamer

  48. #1048
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    After a few weeks delay waiting on the 34 fork, my bike finally arrived at my lbs earlier in the week. As it was a fresh shipment I was not certain what shock to expect, the demo I had used had the rp23 so I was kind of expecting that but I was a bit worried after reading some of the reports here about the 2013 ctd shocks coming without the kashima and people having to pay s fair chunk to upgrade. I was surprised to find mine came with a 2013 ctd shock with the kashima so not sure what the deal is. Anyway, been pretty busy and was itching to go for the first ride and was finally able to sneak in a quick 1.5 hr nght ride this evening. The stifness and handling are superb Had so much fun I wish I could have stayed out longer. Hit a kangaroo doing 50 km/h down a fire road, collided right with its tail as it jumped across in front of me! Glad I didn't get it straight on as it would have ended badly. I'll have to spend some more time dialling in this ctd stuff in the light of day.

    I am going to take it in one of our local marathon races on the weekend to give it a proper break in. Probably not the most ideal marthon race bike, but I'm not looking to set any records, just to have a blast and cruise as the course is pretty rocky and punishing I'll be grateful for the comfort I think. I mounted up the Ikons but like Kerryn, I just could not get them to mount tubeless on the wtb rims I'm currently using. I used a compressor and soaped them up but no luck.

  49. #1049
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    When you set the ikons tires on the rim, pull them out to the edge of the rim all around. This worked for me. I've never had to do that with other tires, dont know why?

  50. #1050
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    Quote Originally Posted by reamer41 View Post
    intermittent engagement. The first couple times I thought it was a bad shift and kept on riding. A few more times and it would spin more than catch.

    Costed, walked,got a ride home and pulled it apart. Star rachet teeth look a bit chipped. Sprins and hub and hub body look fine. Cleaned and put a lighter oil on reassembled, and still slipping. I think the teeth are shot.

    I got the bike & hub in early June and haven't put nearly enough miles on it. Hardly broken in. I'm out of shape and there's no way I was torquing the thing enough to strip teeth off the hub.Click image for larger version. 

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    That's a set of 36 poe ratchet plate. Do yourself a favor, and get the 18 poe one...much larger teeth. I considered getting the 36 for one of my wheelsets...an AM class 26er. When I emailed DT, they talked me out of it...suggested I stick w/ the 18 for the reason of the bigger teeth and longevity. They're cheap...especially if you look on ebay...where some one is trying to be trendy and upgrading their 18 to 36 to get the high poe... ~$30 MSRP.
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  51. #1051
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    Quote Originally Posted by fakemind View Post
    I mounted up the Ikons but like Kerryn, I just could not get them to mount tubeless on the wtb rims I'm currently using. I used a compressor and soaped them up but no luck.
    The easiest way to do this is to mount them first with a tube to get the beed to lock in. Then carefully only unmount one side of the tire and remove the tube. Install the valve but take the core out. Then blast it with the compressor. This should remount the one side.

    Then add the sealant, pop the core back in and seal up. It worked for me.

    Incidentally, I'll be putting the Ardents back on this weekend. I liked the Ikons on dirt singletrack but they are too loose for the shale we have at the moment.

  52. #1052
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    That's a set of 36 poe ratchet plate. Do yourself a favor, and get the 18 poe one...much larger teeth. I considered getting the 36 for one of my wheelsets...an AM class 26er. When I emailed DT, they talked me out of it...suggested I stick w/ the 18 for the reason of the bigger teeth and longevity. They're cheap...especially if you look on ebay...where some one is trying to be trendy and upgrading their 18 to 36 to get the high poe... ~$30 MSRP.
    Bollocks! Now I read this. I just dropped my bike off at the shop and told them to put the 36 poe star rachet in.

  53. #1053
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerryn View Post
    Bollocks! Now I read this. I just dropped my bike off at the shop and told them to put the 36 poe star rachet in.
    Call them to tell them to stop work...you have the technology, yeah? Leverage it!

    K, if you want higher POE because you like to play in the rocks, think King or Hadley.
    You can see what King's drive mech is...just Google for a pic of their driveshell. Hadley's use two rings of 3 paws per ring @ 120* of separation. Rings are staggered a few degrees off so the "clicks" are more like the two major beats of the heart beat and not evenly timed.
    For both, undo the axle and the whole driveshell assembly slips off. Wipe it down, put some motor oil in the hub shell, re-assemble and you're good for another year, or until you submerge your wheel axle deep in a creek crossing. Hell, as easy as it is, you can do it every month, before a ride!
    Last edited by Pau11y; 09-13-2012 at 12:07 PM.
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    There are plenty using the 36 w/ no issues. The hubs are so easy to service I always check the grease when I have the wheel off.If you don't service your bike personally, the 18 may be a better option. The secret as Pau11y stated is use a thin lube.

  55. #1055
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    Technology? Ha ha.

    I'll stick with the "upgrade" for now. I'm not hard on components. My body yes. Components no.

    I'll ride the current wheels until they need replacement. Somehow I already managed to dent the rims on my first ride of the bike. How'd my 13 year old XC rims survive yet I dented these AM rims within 30 miles of use?

  56. #1056
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    That's a set of 36 poe ratchet plate. Do yourself a favor, and get the 18 poe one...much larger teeth. I considered getting the 36 for one of my wheelsets...an AM class 26er. When I emailed DT, they talked me out of it...suggested I stick w/ the 18 for the reason of the bigger teeth and longevity. They're cheap...especially if you look on ebay...where some one is trying to be trendy and upgrading their 18 to 36 to get the high poe... ~$30 MSRP.
    Smallest shop in town had done an 'upgrade' and had a set of 18poe on the shelf. Brand new. $19...

    I'm back on the trail!

    I will go with Kings. I've used em for the past 12 years on my mtb and mtb tandem. Never a problem!

    There was plenty of lube in my hub when I pulled it apart. I'm just hoping the new star ratchet set holds up until I get some new wheels put together....
    --Reamer

  57. #1057
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerryn View Post
    Technology? Ha ha.

    I'll stick with the "upgrade" for now. I'm not hard on components. My body yes. Components no.

    I'll ride the current wheels until they need replacement. Somehow I already managed to dent the rims on my first ride of the bike. How'd my 13 year old XC rims survive yet I dented these AM rims within 30 miles of use?
    Did you say you were going faster on your new wagon wheel'd canary? Have you ridden your 26er since you got your plastic-fantastic? If not, try it and see just how slow you were
    Hell, I've even scared myself a couple of times and I run DH!

    Edit: oh, and the Marz 44...yeeeeeah no. They DO flex noticeably when the speeds get up there. So, guess I'm stuck on the 34, 'til X-Fusion releases the Trace...but I'm not liking their damper tech they've slated for that fork.
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  58. #1058
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    Yep definitely faster. Does ploughing through rocks up to a foot high with an average speed of 7mph for 25 minutes count as being rough on the bike?



    That first ride was a serious baptism of fire for the canary.

  59. #1059
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerryn View Post
    Yep definitely faster. Does ploughing through rocks up to a foot high with an average speed of 7mph for 25 minutes count as being rough on the bike?



    That first ride was a serious baptism of fire for the canary.
    Yeah, I held back a LOT and still ended up overshooting turns! And, ditto on the plow! I took it up to Dino Ridge on my 3rd outing...very interesting ride w/ the new lines that opened up!
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    My new arrival

    The forks arrived today and all i can say was it was worth the wait!! 2013 Rockshox revelation rct3 solo air.

    Managed to get her out for her maiden voiageand what a ride it was. Can see why people love this bike somuch still got some fine tuning to do but it can only get better.

  61. #1061
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerryn View Post
    Does ploughing through rocks up to a foot high with an average speed of 7mph for 25 minutes count as being rough on the bike?
    I have to say that after re-reading this 7mph sounds pretty wimpy but unless you've seen it it's like the trail from hell. You don't so much as ride it for fun, you ride it for the endorphine rush at the end as you look back and realize that you're still alive and not splattered over a rock somewhere.





    (I'm talking about Upper South Saint Vrain)

  62. #1062
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerryn View Post
    I have to say that after re-reading this 7mph sounds pretty wimpy but unless you've seen it it's like the trail from hell. You don't so much as ride it for fun, you ride it for the endorphine rush at the end as you look back and realize that you're still alive and not splattered over a rock somewhere.





    (I'm talking about Upper South Saint Vrain)
    The hell are you talking about...7mph on Dino Ridge would KILL you!
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  63. #1063
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    Note to self. Must try Dino Ridge.

    Do I need body armor?

  64. #1064
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerryn View Post
    Note to self. Must try Dino Ridge.

    Do I need body armor?
    You're not really going fast enough, altho there are some pointy rocks. And, if you take a wrong turn, the road is about 200 ft down. And, you won't be self-arresting the tumble down a 45 to 60 degree hill. So, I'll let you decide on armor... But, I'd resolve your tire traction issue before going up there...

    Hey, have you been down to Lake Pueblo State Park? It's an awesome place for winter riding! Upper and Lower Dog trail for some pretty gnar looking tech. They're one way trails...but if you can climb it, YOU DA MAN! Oh Palmer Park in CSprings also fun times during winter!
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  65. #1065
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    Sadly I haven't made it south of Golden (well White Ranch) yet.

    I would like to do Pueblo this winter. Hopefully I'll find the time.

    On a side note. I got my bike back with the star ratchet upgrade and the Syntace Megaforce 2 stem (70mm). I really like the look of the stem and the reviews state it quite a bit stronger than a Thompsnob. Lighter too!

    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-imageuploadedbytapatalk1347594888.541051.jpg

  66. #1066
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerryn View Post
    ...and the reviews state it quite a bit stronger than a Thompsnob. Lighter too!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    But of course it is...

    pffff....bwahahaha!


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  67. #1067
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    Carbon scratch fix

    ...why I picked gloss. But I think the matte can be dealt w/ using 400 grit wet sand...?
    Anyway...

    0. Clean scratches w/ IPA
    1. Very little 30min epoxy into the bottle cap
    2. Thin w/ IPA (in the plastic water bottle). You want this runny, but not water runny...like spit.
    3. Dab w/ the mixer onto the scratch. If your scratch is a gouge, mix it thicker and use enough to fill.
    4. Stretch a piece of the packing tape over the whole mess, rolling out all air bubbles.
    5. Wait at least 8 hours (I'll post results later).

    **damn pics uploaded in all sorts of weird order :/
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-carbon-fix-4.jpg  

    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-carbon-fix-3.jpg  

    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-carbon-fix-2.jpg  

    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-carbon-fix-1.jpg  

    Last edited by Pau11y; 09-15-2012 at 02:36 PM.
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  68. #1068
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    Looks like a fine fix, thanks for posting.
    konahonzo

  69. #1069
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    0. Clean scratches w/ IPA
    When I first read this, I thought . . . "Why the hell would I waste beer on cleaning my rims!?"
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  70. #1070
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    Quote Originally Posted by OO7 View Post
    When I first read this, I thought . . . "Why the hell would I waste beer on cleaning my rims!?"
    Yes, especially good hoppy beer.

  71. #1071
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerryn View Post
    The easiest way to do this is to mount them first with a tube to get the beed to lock in. Then carefully only unmount one side of the tire and remove the tube. Install the valve but take the core out. Then blast it with the compressor. This should remount the one side.
    Hey kerryn thanks a bunch for the tip, I removed the tube carefully, keeping one side mounted and was able to get them to seal up nicely.

    Gave her a proper baptism today, 90km with a lot of really rocky body battering stuff. The extra cush was very appreciated. I'm wondering how different the suspension curve is compared to the regular TB, as there were a few guys on these and I seemed to notice more suspension bob on theirs when climbing. Could just be their shock setups though i guess.

  72. #1072
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    I made my bike look funny. I added a bit of retro to the plastic fantastic!



    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-imageuploadedbytapatalk1347809048.488398.jpg

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    Here is my Tallboy LTC. From the original RAM build I've made the following substitutions/ upgrades:

    Tubeless- the WTB i23's already had Stan's tape installed when I removed the tubes. The conversion was very easy. A couple oz's of Stans and a floor pump was all that was needed.

    DT Swiss 36-ratchet- I just changed to the 36 pt ratchet. It was literally a 5 minute process. I've got Hadley's on my other bike, so the 18 pt on the stock hub was crimping my style. By the way, the santa cruz website mentions a shimano hub for this build kit, but it came with the DT Swiss to my pleasant surprise.

    Single front ring- I swapped over my XO shifter, and rear D from my old bike. I added a Blackspire 32 tooth ring and a SRAM chain guide. This is the guide that is built by MRP. It works pretty well so far, just a little more noise coming from the drive train than I prefer.

    Chris King headset- I've had bad experiences with the cane creek 10, so swapped out.

    Lizard Skin bolt on grips & helicopter tape at various wear locations.

    My last FS bike was a Yeti SB66. Once I purchased a hard tail 29 for a cross country bike, the 26 inch Yeti started collecting dust. It was difficult transitioning between the two since the geometry difference between the two. The Yeti just felt sluggish steering. Sold the Yeti, and purchased the Tallboy LTc.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-photo-16.jpg  

    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-photo-12.jpg  

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  74. #1074
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    Results

    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    ...why I picked gloss. But I think the matte can be dealt w/ using 400 grit wet sand...?
    Anyway...
    Not perfect as the fix is reflecting light differently. But, ride it for a few miles and see if you can find it again
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-result-1.jpg  

    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-result-2.jpg  

    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-result-3.jpg  

    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-result-4.jpg  

    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-original-scratches.jpg  

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  75. #1075
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    pretty cool fix with the carbin hoops.

    placing my QBP order tomorrow for the rest of the stuff. Very excited. still going thru a number of maybe this /maybe that when deciding on a few things. Help if you can:

    On an XL

    Going with a wide carbon bar, Race Face sixc @ 722mm (im 6'3") and wondering about a STEM... Carbon/AL? 70mm is where i think im going. Any suggestions as to a sweet stem or length?

    What kind/size of seatpost clamp are you guys using with your dropper posts? im ordering a KS Lev 125mm
    thanks

  76. #1076
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    Quote Originally Posted by hrindo View Post
    pretty cool fix with the carbin hoops.

    placing my QBP order tomorrow for the rest of the stuff. Very excited. still going thru a number of maybe this /maybe that when deciding on a few things. Help if you can:

    On an XL

    Going with a wide carbon bar, Race Face sixc @ 722mm (im 6'3") and wondering about a STEM... Carbon/AL? 70mm is where i think im going. Any suggestions as to a sweet stem or length?

    What kind/size of seatpost clamp are you guys using with your dropper posts? im ordering a KS Lev 125mm
    thanks
    Check Eaton Havoc Carbon DH bar...750mm

    6ft on a lrg, running a 70mm Thomson, 90*

    Post clamp...Salsa LipLock (FlipLock for the lever'd verson), since you have a dropper and won't really need adjustment here very often.
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  77. #1077
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerryn View Post
    I made my bike look funny. I added a bit of retro to the plastic fantastic!



    Click image for larger version. 

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    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  78. #1078
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerryn View Post
    I made my bike look funny. I added a bit of retro to the plastic fantastic!



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    That's just asking for negative rep.
    konahonzo

  79. #1079
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    [QUOTE=Post clamp...Salsa LipLock .[/QUOTE]

    Since the LTc uses a 30.9 seatpost....are you using the 32mm clamp? Just found out QBP will not have the KS Lev until mid October

  80. #1080
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    Quote Originally Posted by hrindo View Post
    Since the LTc uses a 30.9 seatpost....are you using the 32mm clamp? Just found out QBP will not have the KS Lev until mid October
    Yep. Pretty much everyone is out. On Friday I ordered the last one available at University Cycles in a 30.9x125mm size and got shipping confirmation on Saturday. Managed to use VIP15 code and got 15% off, no tax, no shipping for an all in price of $334. Bit of a score.

    I did this after canceling my order with my LBS because they said the distributor was out of stock.

    BTW, DirtRag had a glowing review of the KS Lev this month. I know... Rubbing salt in the wound.

  81. #1081
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    not one to brag, but when QBP does get them in stock i was quoted $260 this am its not what you know, its who you know. So i can wait a month (especially since my frame and fork are still in transit somewhere) Drivetrain and rest of the rig will be ordered in about 2 hours. So pumped.

  82. #1082
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    Quote Originally Posted by hrindo View Post
    Since the LTc uses a 30.9 seatpost....are you using the 32mm clamp?
    Since you quoted my LipLock comment, I'll assume you're talking about seaptpost clamp?
    No, SC uses 35mm seatpost clamp.

    Edit: think about the difference for a 30.9mm seatpost... if the seat tube's OD is 32mm, that's ~ 0.5mm of wall thickness on the seat tube. That's a steel or Ti frame. Carbon will be like AL frame...~2mm of tube thickness, if not more.
    Congrats by the way!
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  83. #1083
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    Quote Originally Posted by eonicks View Post
    Here is my Tallboy LTC. From the original RAM build I've made the following substitutions/ upgrades:

    Tubeless- the WTB i23's already had Stan's tape installed when I removed the tubes. The conversion was very easy. A couple oz's of Stans and a floor pump was all that was needed.

    DT Swiss 36-ratchet- I just changed to the 36 pt ratchet. It was literally a 5 minute process. I've got Hadley's on my other bike, so the 18 pt on the stock hub was crimping my style. By the way, the santa cruz website mentions a shimano hub for this build kit, but it came with the DT Swiss to my pleasant surprise.

    Single front ring- I swapped over my XO shifter, and rear D from my old bike. I added a Blackspire 32 tooth ring and a SRAM chain guide. This is the guide that is built by MRP. It works pretty well so far, just a little more noise coming from the drive train than I prefer.

    Chris King headset- I've had bad experiences with the cane creek 10, so swapped out.

    Lizard Skin bolt on grips & helicopter tape at various wear locations.

    My last FS bike was a Yeti SB66. Once I purchased a hard tail 29 for a cross country bike, the 26 inch Yeti started collecting dust. It was difficult transitioning between the two since the geometry difference between the two. The Yeti just felt sluggish steering. Sold the Yeti, and purchased the Tallboy LTc.
    So, what do you think of the LTc compared to the 26Yeti and your hard tail? Who collects the dust now?

  84. #1084
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rev. 14 View Post
    So, what do you think of the LTc compared to the 26Yeti and your hard tail? Who collects the dust now?
    I converted my hard tail to a single speed. I sold the Yeti. So I choose between the bikes depending on the terrain I'll be riding. Most likely, the highball will be the weekday ride, and the tallboy for the weekend. I enjoyed the Yeti for the year I had it, however, once I started riding the highball, I felt more comfortable on the 29er. Fortunately, it wasn't too hard on the pocketbook. The SB66 is still in high demand and I scored a great deal from Huck-n-roll on the TBc.

  85. #1085
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    Quote Originally Posted by hrindo View Post
    not one to brag, but when QBP does get them in stock i was quoted $260 this am its not what you know, its who you know. So i can wait a month (especially since my frame and fork are still in transit somewhere) Drivetrain and rest of the rig will be ordered in about 2 hours. So pumped.
    Pretty lame post here. QBP is one of the suppliers that LBS's get their parts from so obviously you either work in a shop, work in the industry or know someone who does. Great for you

    If you don't personally work in the industry then you are essentially sticking it to the LBS that is there for you for the hundreds of reasons I don't need to get into. I worked as a bike wrench for 7 years during which I enjoyed all the perks of that. After that during my racing career I had several sponsorships that I enjoyed deep discounts on. And now, several of my close friends either own bike shops or work directly for the manufacturers. I would never publicly broadcast the price I can get a part or bike for when it comes from one of my friends. It is just one of the unspoken rules. It undercuts the LBS and the industry as a whole.

    I proudly paid full pop for parts and bikes recently as I feel that there are manufacturers out there putting substantial time, development, research and $$ into continually improving products. I will pay for that gladly.

    There is nothing special about "who you know" and bragging on a forum where 99% of the people on here have the same connections purely paints you as ignorant.

  86. #1086
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    Pau11y thanks for your help with the seatpost clamp. I just placed my order.

    "Pretty Lame Post"....get over yourself and your racing career. I am the LBS. Excuse me for being super excited about finally putting my first major build together from the ground up. especially after the wait from selling my bike last year. I have been in contact with many of the companies which i am ordering from. With talking to QBP yesterday and there awesome customer service reps, i was informed of the price and the wait. Excuse me for listing a price. And, there IS something about who you know. My shop owner is in the MTB Hall of Fame and one hell of a guy. I feel more privledged to call him a friend then to get my deals anyday.

    And ....to complain this much about someone's post paints you as bored and ignorant. Drop it.

  87. #1087
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    nope, quoting prices from hookups or wholesale is rookie. Stoked you are excited. I am too, it is a great bike and the Lev looks awesome. Can't wait to get mine. Leave it at that. A post specifically to tell that you got it cheaper is bush league.

    Sorry still trying to get over myself. I am pretty awesome.

    Don't even go into the hall of fame. Yes the are a ton of rad guys in there but there are waaaaay more that aren't in there that should be. Nicolas Vouilloz, Sean Palmer WTF??

  88. #1088
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    These Tallboy LTs look awesome.
    I have a somewhat newish Superlight29er that's a bit to big for me. Id love to upgrade to a size appropriate tallboy LT.

    A guy was telling me that SC would give a crash replacement price on an upgraded frame in trade?
    Anyone ever heard of that?

  89. #1089
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaysop View Post
    A guy was telling me that SC would give a crash replacement price on an upgraded frame in trade?
    Anyone ever heard of that?
    Probably the best bet is to talk to your Santa Cruz LBS or call Santa Cruz directly.

  90. #1090
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaysop View Post
    These Tallboy LTs look awesome.
    I have a somewhat newish Superlight29er that's a bit to big for me. Id love to upgrade to a size appropriate tallboy LT.

    A guy was telling me that SC would give a crash replacement price on an upgraded frame in trade?
    Anyone ever heard of that?
    If you were offered a LTc at crash replacement price, I'd be interested in what that price is. Please post if you find out. TIA.
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  91. #1091
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    does that mean you would go out and intentionally total yur Superlight??
    -Santa Cruz TBLTc
    STRAVA: Enabling dorks everywhere to get trails shut down... all for the sake of a race on the internet.

  92. #1092
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    I'd personally be more interested in the aluminum frame but if I can get the info ill pass it on.

    Honestly it was hard to get the details from the guy, I'm Haveing a hard time understanding some southern accents. But from how he put it, it's was a legit deal. As in not trashing my SL frame and "trading" it. My LBS didn't seem to know what I was talking about but they didn't seem to familer with crash replacement or anything like that. I'll have to go back tomarow and talk to a different guy.

    He did say that when they send the "broken" frame to SC that those guys are very well versed in picking out intentional damage.
    I personally don't want to screw over SC as they have been nothing but good to me.

  93. #1093
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    ... and if we just ... It has finally arrived!

    So after 4 months of waiting, I've finally received my Tallboy LTc. I did a custom build and ended upgrading the build as time passed. (started with a SRAM X9 build). I'm surprized that it weighs in at 25.4 pounds. Tomorrow will be my first ride and I can't freakin wait.

    Build:
    Tallboy LTc (Large)
    Fox CTD Kashima rear shock
    Rockshox Revelation RCT3 140mm Fork (20mm thru axle)
    ChrisKing headset
    Shimano XTR Trail 2x10 cranks
    Time Atac Carbon pedals
    SRAM X0 shifters and brakes
    180mm rotors front/rear (160 rear rotor temporarily)
    SRAM X0 front derailleur
    SRAM X0 Type 2 rear Derailleur
    Industry 9 Enduro hubs with Stans Flow rims (were supposed to be Arch EX rims)
    Schwalbe Rocket Ron Tires (set up tubeless)
    EC90 seat post
    Easton EC70 bars
    Easton EA70 90mm stem
    Selle Italia saddle

    Grips and stem will be upgraded soon.
















    So I'm looking for some advice on the wheels. I ordered I9 Eduro hubs with Stans Arch EX wheels. Well there was an mistake when they were ordered and I ended up with a standard Enduro build with Stans Flow rims. These rims look very robust, but of course there is a weight penalty, almost 1/2 a pound total (both). So I was given the option to get a $100 credit if I keep them or they will order the correct wheels and I can ride these until my replacement wheels comes in. The advantage to this is I should be able to order orange hubs with the replacement wheels...so, should I get Orange enduro hubs with Arch EX rims, or stick with the flow? I live near Raleigh NC which is a mix of easy and technical rolling CC trails. I do head out west 3 or 4 times a year to the mountains in Western NC and ride Pisgah in Brevard. I ride hard, fast, hit jumps, crash, pretty much abuse the hell out of my bikes. So i'm on the fence, bullet proof heavier wheels or lighter stout wheels with orange hubs.
    Last edited by Jarz; 09-21-2012 at 04:00 AM.

  94. #1094
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    Perfect as is

  95. #1095
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    Quote Originally Posted by Surfas View Post
    One for Portugal

    Seriously nice!

    I'm currently waiting for mine of the same colour scheme. Looks like it comes with the seat post collar? Does it also come with the rear axle???

  96. #1096
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    I pretty much finished mine tonight. Last thing to do which will be done on Saturday is to switch the tires back to the Ardents that came with the bike except this time tubeless.

    I switched the stem to be a negative 6 deg rise to lower the bars more and tweaked the cockpit. I put on the KS LEV post which looks great on the bike. The 125mm post is perfect for my height (5'11" on a large frame) and the seat post is just a couple of mm from the collar.

    The bike weigh 28lb 14oz and it will gain another 1/2 lb when I change the tires. Oh well so much for my weight weenie tendencies.

    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-imageuploadedbytapatalk1348206966.770443.jpg

    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-imageuploadedbytapatalk1348207027.036594.jpg

  97. #1097
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    Quote Originally Posted by spencerfrater1 View Post
    Seriously nice!

    I'm currently waiting for mine of the same colour scheme. Looks like it comes with the seat post collar? Does it also come with the rear axle???
    Yes to both

  98. #1098
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jarz View Post
    So after 4 months of waiting, I've finally received my Tallboy LTc...

    ...so, should I get Orange enduro hubs with Arch EX rims, or stick with the flow?
    Fist off, that is a great build... combination of lightweight and strength. As for the wheels, I'd stick with what you have here, stronger wheels means more time riding and less time repairing/truing! Besides this is an all-day, everyday trail bike not a XC race bike.

  99. #1099
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jarz View Post
    I'm surprized that it weighs in at 25.4 pounds.
    Surprised that it is so light or that it is that heavy?

  100. #1100
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    Quote Originally Posted by brumos View Post
    Besides this is an all-day, everyday trail bike not a XC race bike.
    This is why I put bar ends on my bike. I'm turning it into the one bike to do it all. It is my Enduro bike. An all day, do everything machine, from all-mountain to agressive XC, 6 hour in the saddle epics to fast runs along boring multi-use trails and dirt roads/tracks.

    The bar ends are a relic of mine from 1993! I stuck them on for a laugh but I am serious in seeing if they help or hinder the performance of the bike in my enduro set up. If they help, I may look into getting a more purposeful, modern and lighter set...
    Last edited by TheNormsk; 09-21-2012 at 12:20 PM.

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