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  1. #5001
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  2. #5002
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    I have a Tallboy LTa with a two year old stock Fox CTD Evolution rear shock. I weigh 220 pounds, intermediate rider, mostly trail rides in Tennessee. I see posts about which rear shock is the "best" upgrade but it seems like this depends on the rider, the bike, the riding type, and the willingness of the rider to tweak the damn shock every month including adding spacers if needed.

    If I just send my current Fox CTD to Avalanche and give them my specs, then I'd get the right tune but maybe a slightly inferior shock compared to Fox DPS Evil and RT3? I have found some nice RT3 debonair shocks on Pinkbike that are coming off new Hightowers (some say "L tune"), which would probably work for me because VPP for Hightower should be similar to VPP for Tallboy, right? It seems that most retailers sell a M/M tune of Rockshox, and I don't know if that's good or bad for me and my bike. Sorry if I'm overthinking this, but I am torn between simplifying things by sending to Avalanche versus getting a new shock (RT3, Fox DPS Evil, etc) then tweaking until it works right. Any advice is much appreciated!

    Justin

  3. #5003
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrobnewman View Post
    I have a Tallboy LTa with a two year old stock Fox CTD Evolution rear shock. I weigh 220 pounds, intermediate rider, mostly trail rides in Tennessee. I see posts about which rear shock is the "best" upgrade but it seems like this depends on the rider, the bike, the riding type, and the willingness of the rider to tweak the damn shock every month including adding spacers if needed.

    If I just send my current Fox CTD to Avalanche and give them my specs, then I'd get the right tune but maybe a slightly inferior shock compared to Fox DPS Evil and RT3? I have found some nice RT3 debonair shocks on Pinkbike that are coming off new Hightowers (some say "L tune"), which would probably work for me because VPP for Hightower should be similar to VPP for Tallboy, right? It seems that most retailers sell a M/M tune of Rockshox, and I don't know if that's good or bad for me and my bike. Sorry if I'm overthinking this, but I am torn between simplifying things by sending to Avalanche versus getting a new shock (RT3, Fox DPS Evil, etc) then tweaking until it works right. Any advice is much appreciated!

    Justin
    Why would you think a custom tuned shock is going to be inferior to one of those others? No kashima?
    I'd take an Avy tune evolution over a stock factory Fox or RS any day of the week.
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  4. #5004
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    It'd certainly be the less expensive route to rebuild the CTD. Maybe putting a fancy new $500 Fox DPS EVOL shock on my $2500 alloy Tallboy LT would be a bit overkill. Aluminum or not, my Tallboy LTa is still quite sick and deserves a solid rear end -- maybe the Avy rebuild will be a solid choice. I call my bike a "monster truck" compared to my 100mm travel friends who gain zero pedaling efficiency over me. Any comments very appreciated.

    Justin

  5. #5005
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrobnewman View Post
    It'd certainly be the less expensive route to rebuild the CTD. Maybe putting a fancy new $500 Fox DPS EVOL shock on my $2500 alloy Tallboy LT would be a bit overkill. Aluminum or not, my Tallboy LTa is still quite sick and deserves a solid rear end -- maybe the Avy rebuild will be a solid choice. I call my bike a "monster truck" compared to my 100mm travel friends who gain zero pedaling efficiency over me. Any comments very appreciated.

    Justin
    Call Criag and talk to him. My Mojo3 came with an Evol and he recommended a CTD over the Evol for the Mojo3 suspension. So don't assume new is better.
    Last edited by TwoTone; 2 Weeks Ago at 01:25 PM.
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  6. #5006
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    I don't know what part of TN you are in. A few friends and I drove to NC to ride at Dupont the other day. They rented Hightowers at "the Hub" bike shop in Brevard/Pisgah. The shop guys and mechs all recommended Ohlins air spring shocks or the Ohlins air shocks over, FOX, RS, and DVO. They all said it is a game changer. I don't buy that statement, game changer, but maybe they are a very good improvement. I have not riding time on an Ohlins shock but have heard nice things about DVO.

    I know Fox will allow you to trade in your current rear shock for an EVOL DPS and its like $399. I could share the info if you are interested. I think the shock has to be less than 5 years old. I agree with Twotone, a tune would give you better happiness over your current shock.

  7. #5007
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    Hey guys I want to go wider! After riding my dads 27.5 plus my tires look anorexic! Right now I am running stock wtb i23 rims with Maxxis 2.2 ardent back and high roller 2 2.3 up front. What wide rims and tires are you guys running? Im thinking 29 to 35mm id rims. Maybe 35mm rim with 2.4 tire up front? That should add quite a bit of volume and contact vs what I have now? I have a fox 34 up front. Also should I use the dt 350 hubs, that work fine, from my old wheels are just shell out for new hubs?

  8. #5008
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    Quote Originally Posted by sikkfreerider View Post
    Hey guys I want to go wider! After riding my dads 27.5 plus my tires look anorexic! Right now I am running stock wtb i23 rims with Maxxis 2.2 ardent back and high roller 2 2.3 up front. What wide rims and tires are you guys running? Im thinking 29 to 35mm id rims. Maybe 35mm rim with 2.4 tire up front? That should add quite a bit of volume and contact vs what I have now? I have a fox 34 up front. Also should I use the dt 350 hubs, that work fine, from my old wheels are just shell out for new hubs?
    You'll need to check the fork and rear triangle clearance. Im running 30mm rims with 2.35 wtb vigilantes. Plenty big enough. Left 5mm clearance each side.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

  9. #5009
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    Before breaking the frame, I rode Derby 44 id rims with a 2.8 Rekon/rear and 3.0 RR/front but that was with a 29er Pike. Rear clearance was tight but never had an issue. Made the LTC a whole new animal.
    DT 350 are solid hubs, they will last through many builds.

  10. #5010
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    Quote Originally Posted by EC3 View Post
    Before breaking the frame, I rode Derby 44 id rims with a 2.8 Rekon/rear and 3.0 RR/front but that was with a 29er Pike. Rear clearance was tight but never had an issue. Made the LTC a whole new animal.
    DT 350 are solid hubs, they will last through many builds.
    How did you break the frame? Do you have pics? What did SC do for you?

  11. #5011
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    Quote Originally Posted by max_lombardy View Post
    How did you break the frame? Do you have pics? What did SC do for you?
    Heard an unfamiliar SNAP coming off just a 2 footer. Next ride noticed the top tube cracked about halfway down. There was a previous scratch in the area so SC offered a crash replacement, a Hightower. Cost about $2k when all was said and done. Like the HT so far but loved my TBLTc.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-img_0367.jpg  


  12. #5012
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    Quote Originally Posted by EC3 View Post
    Heard an unfamiliar SNAP coming off just a 2 footer. Next ride noticed the top tube cracked about halfway down. There was a previous scratch in the area so SC offered a crash replacement, a Hightower. Cost about $2k when all was said and done. Like the HT so far but loved my TBLTc.
    You must have purchased your LTc before the lifetime warranty took effect in 2015? Or were you a second owner? I say that because the few frames that people here report have cracked, had been replaced for next to nothing if in warranty and first owner.

  13. #5013
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    Quote Originally Posted by sikkfreerider View Post
    Hey guys I want to go wider! After riding my dads 27.5 plus my tires look anorexic! Right now I am running stock wtb i23 rims with Maxxis 2.2 ardent back and high roller 2 2.3 up front. What wide rims and tires are you guys running? Im thinking 29 to 35mm id rims. Maybe 35mm rim with 2.4 tire up front? That should add quite a bit of volume and contact vs what I have now? I have a fox 34 up front. Also should I use the dt 350 hubs, that work fine, from my old wheels are just shell out for new hubs?
    Curious if you want aluminum or carbon? Two good options are Industry Nine aluminum Enduro wheelset (34.5 Outer width and 30.5 inner, not a bad price and usually if you buy from Comp Cy, they give good deals. I have the older I9 Enduro wheelsets that are 31.5 outer and 26 inner.

    I love these rims and the hubs are excellent but I will admit buyers remorse in that I should have just spent a little more to go with NOX. The Nox would have shaved off a half pound in rolling resistance that is very noticeable. My enduro wheels have my 2.35 Schwalbe Hansdempf and NN at a very decent width. I've compared them to the i23 wheels and mine look much wider.

    If going carbon, you could consider NOX wheelsets, not too wide and not too thin either. They offer the Teocali wheelset at 32 outer and 26 inner, then Farlow wheelset is 35 outerwidth and 29 inner. Nox has a great reputation and the price is really not that bad, usually can be had for 5-$600 over the I9 aluminum wheelset. The Nox can be built up with your choice of hubs too.

  14. #5014
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rev. 14 View Post
    Curious if you want aluminum or carbon? Two good options are Industry Nine aluminum Enduro wheelset (34.5 Outer width and 30.5 inner, not a bad price and usually if you buy from Comp Cy, they give good deals. I have the older I9 Enduro wheelsets that are 31.5 outer and 26 inner.

    I love these rims and the hubs are excellent but I will admit buyers remorse in that I should have just spent a little more to go with NOX. The Nox would have shaved off a half pound in rolling resistance that is very noticeable. My enduro wheels have my 2.35 Schwalbe Hansdempf and NN at a very decent width. I've compared them to the i23 wheels and mine look much wider.

    If going carbon, you could consider NOX wheelsets, not too wide and not too thin either. They offer the Teocali wheelset at 32 outer and 26 inner, then Farlow wheelset is 35 outerwidth and 29 inner. Nox has a great reputation and the price is really not that bad, usually can be had for 5-$600 over the I9 aluminum wheelset. The Nox can be built up with your choice of hubs too.
    Or these for $180 a rim and have a builder put it all together for you for less than NOX.

    https://www.lightbicycle.com/35mm-wi...atibility.html
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  15. #5015
    EC3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rev. 14 View Post
    You must have purchased your LTc before the lifetime warranty took effect in 2015? Or were you a second owner? I say that because the few frames that people here report have cracked, had been replaced for next to nothing if in warranty and first owner.
    Actually I bought it new in June '15 from a Santa Cruz dealer. It was the last one within a hundred miles from where I live. They(SC) said it wasn't warranted because I previously scratched it right where the crack occurred. I had the bike for just over a year and would have preferred to get another one but they are long gone. My buddy had his struck by lightning and got the same deal as I did.

    Believe me I wasn't too happy about the decision from SC.

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