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  1. #5001
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  2. #5002
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    I have a Tallboy LTa with a two year old stock Fox CTD Evolution rear shock. I weigh 220 pounds, intermediate rider, mostly trail rides in Tennessee. I see posts about which rear shock is the "best" upgrade but it seems like this depends on the rider, the bike, the riding type, and the willingness of the rider to tweak the damn shock every month including adding spacers if needed.

    If I just send my current Fox CTD to Avalanche and give them my specs, then I'd get the right tune but maybe a slightly inferior shock compared to Fox DPS Evil and RT3? I have found some nice RT3 debonair shocks on Pinkbike that are coming off new Hightowers (some say "L tune"), which would probably work for me because VPP for Hightower should be similar to VPP for Tallboy, right? It seems that most retailers sell a M/M tune of Rockshox, and I don't know if that's good or bad for me and my bike. Sorry if I'm overthinking this, but I am torn between simplifying things by sending to Avalanche versus getting a new shock (RT3, Fox DPS Evil, etc) then tweaking until it works right. Any advice is much appreciated!

    Justin

  3. #5003
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrobnewman View Post
    I have a Tallboy LTa with a two year old stock Fox CTD Evolution rear shock. I weigh 220 pounds, intermediate rider, mostly trail rides in Tennessee. I see posts about which rear shock is the "best" upgrade but it seems like this depends on the rider, the bike, the riding type, and the willingness of the rider to tweak the damn shock every month including adding spacers if needed.

    If I just send my current Fox CTD to Avalanche and give them my specs, then I'd get the right tune but maybe a slightly inferior shock compared to Fox DPS Evil and RT3? I have found some nice RT3 debonair shocks on Pinkbike that are coming off new Hightowers (some say "L tune"), which would probably work for me because VPP for Hightower should be similar to VPP for Tallboy, right? It seems that most retailers sell a M/M tune of Rockshox, and I don't know if that's good or bad for me and my bike. Sorry if I'm overthinking this, but I am torn between simplifying things by sending to Avalanche versus getting a new shock (RT3, Fox DPS Evil, etc) then tweaking until it works right. Any advice is much appreciated!

    Justin
    Why would you think a custom tuned shock is going to be inferior to one of those others? No kashima?
    I'd take an Avy tune evolution over a stock factory Fox or RS any day of the week.
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  4. #5004
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    It'd certainly be the less expensive route to rebuild the CTD. Maybe putting a fancy new $500 Fox DPS EVOL shock on my $2500 alloy Tallboy LT would be a bit overkill. Aluminum or not, my Tallboy LTa is still quite sick and deserves a solid rear end -- maybe the Avy rebuild will be a solid choice. I call my bike a "monster truck" compared to my 100mm travel friends who gain zero pedaling efficiency over me. Any comments very appreciated.

    Justin

  5. #5005
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrobnewman View Post
    It'd certainly be the less expensive route to rebuild the CTD. Maybe putting a fancy new $500 Fox DPS EVOL shock on my $2500 alloy Tallboy LT would be a bit overkill. Aluminum or not, my Tallboy LTa is still quite sick and deserves a solid rear end -- maybe the Avy rebuild will be a solid choice. I call my bike a "monster truck" compared to my 100mm travel friends who gain zero pedaling efficiency over me. Any comments very appreciated.

    Justin
    Call Criag and talk to him. My Mojo3 came with an Evol and he recommended a CTD over the Evol for the Mojo3 suspension. So don't assume new is better.
    Last edited by TwoTone; 12-30-2016 at 12:25 PM.
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  6. #5006
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    I don't know what part of TN you are in. A few friends and I drove to NC to ride at Dupont the other day. They rented Hightowers at "the Hub" bike shop in Brevard/Pisgah. The shop guys and mechs all recommended Ohlins air spring shocks or the Ohlins air shocks over, FOX, RS, and DVO. They all said it is a game changer. I don't buy that statement, game changer, but maybe they are a very good improvement. I have not riding time on an Ohlins shock but have heard nice things about DVO.

    I know Fox will allow you to trade in your current rear shock for an EVOL DPS and its like $399. I could share the info if you are interested. I think the shock has to be less than 5 years old. I agree with Twotone, a tune would give you better happiness over your current shock.

  7. #5007
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    Hey guys I want to go wider! After riding my dads 27.5 plus my tires look anorexic! Right now I am running stock wtb i23 rims with Maxxis 2.2 ardent back and high roller 2 2.3 up front. What wide rims and tires are you guys running? Im thinking 29 to 35mm id rims. Maybe 35mm rim with 2.4 tire up front? That should add quite a bit of volume and contact vs what I have now? I have a fox 34 up front. Also should I use the dt 350 hubs, that work fine, from my old wheels are just shell out for new hubs?

  8. #5008
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    Quote Originally Posted by sikkfreerider View Post
    Hey guys I want to go wider! After riding my dads 27.5 plus my tires look anorexic! Right now I am running stock wtb i23 rims with Maxxis 2.2 ardent back and high roller 2 2.3 up front. What wide rims and tires are you guys running? Im thinking 29 to 35mm id rims. Maybe 35mm rim with 2.4 tire up front? That should add quite a bit of volume and contact vs what I have now? I have a fox 34 up front. Also should I use the dt 350 hubs, that work fine, from my old wheels are just shell out for new hubs?
    You'll need to check the fork and rear triangle clearance. Im running 30mm rims with 2.35 wtb vigilantes. Plenty big enough. Left 5mm clearance each side.

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  9. #5009
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    Before breaking the frame, I rode Derby 44 id rims with a 2.8 Rekon/rear and 3.0 RR/front but that was with a 29er Pike. Rear clearance was tight but never had an issue. Made the LTC a whole new animal.
    DT 350 are solid hubs, they will last through many builds.

  10. #5010
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    Quote Originally Posted by EC3 View Post
    Before breaking the frame, I rode Derby 44 id rims with a 2.8 Rekon/rear and 3.0 RR/front but that was with a 29er Pike. Rear clearance was tight but never had an issue. Made the LTC a whole new animal.
    DT 350 are solid hubs, they will last through many builds.
    How did you break the frame? Do you have pics? What did SC do for you?

  11. #5011
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    Quote Originally Posted by max_lombardy View Post
    How did you break the frame? Do you have pics? What did SC do for you?
    Heard an unfamiliar SNAP coming off just a 2 footer. Next ride noticed the top tube cracked about halfway down. There was a previous scratch in the area so SC offered a crash replacement, a Hightower. Cost about $2k when all was said and done. Like the HT so far but loved my TBLTc.
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  12. #5012
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    Quote Originally Posted by EC3 View Post
    Heard an unfamiliar SNAP coming off just a 2 footer. Next ride noticed the top tube cracked about halfway down. There was a previous scratch in the area so SC offered a crash replacement, a Hightower. Cost about $2k when all was said and done. Like the HT so far but loved my TBLTc.
    You must have purchased your LTc before the lifetime warranty took effect in 2015? Or were you a second owner? I say that because the few frames that people here report have cracked, had been replaced for next to nothing if in warranty and first owner.

  13. #5013
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    Quote Originally Posted by sikkfreerider View Post
    Hey guys I want to go wider! After riding my dads 27.5 plus my tires look anorexic! Right now I am running stock wtb i23 rims with Maxxis 2.2 ardent back and high roller 2 2.3 up front. What wide rims and tires are you guys running? Im thinking 29 to 35mm id rims. Maybe 35mm rim with 2.4 tire up front? That should add quite a bit of volume and contact vs what I have now? I have a fox 34 up front. Also should I use the dt 350 hubs, that work fine, from my old wheels are just shell out for new hubs?
    Curious if you want aluminum or carbon? Two good options are Industry Nine aluminum Enduro wheelset (34.5 Outer width and 30.5 inner, not a bad price and usually if you buy from Comp Cy, they give good deals. I have the older I9 Enduro wheelsets that are 31.5 outer and 26 inner.

    I love these rims and the hubs are excellent but I will admit buyers remorse in that I should have just spent a little more to go with NOX. The Nox would have shaved off a half pound in rolling resistance that is very noticeable. My enduro wheels have my 2.35 Schwalbe Hansdempf and NN at a very decent width. I've compared them to the i23 wheels and mine look much wider.

    If going carbon, you could consider NOX wheelsets, not too wide and not too thin either. They offer the Teocali wheelset at 32 outer and 26 inner, then Farlow wheelset is 35 outerwidth and 29 inner. Nox has a great reputation and the price is really not that bad, usually can be had for 5-$600 over the I9 aluminum wheelset. The Nox can be built up with your choice of hubs too.

  14. #5014
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rev. 14 View Post
    Curious if you want aluminum or carbon? Two good options are Industry Nine aluminum Enduro wheelset (34.5 Outer width and 30.5 inner, not a bad price and usually if you buy from Comp Cy, they give good deals. I have the older I9 Enduro wheelsets that are 31.5 outer and 26 inner.

    I love these rims and the hubs are excellent but I will admit buyers remorse in that I should have just spent a little more to go with NOX. The Nox would have shaved off a half pound in rolling resistance that is very noticeable. My enduro wheels have my 2.35 Schwalbe Hansdempf and NN at a very decent width. I've compared them to the i23 wheels and mine look much wider.

    If going carbon, you could consider NOX wheelsets, not too wide and not too thin either. They offer the Teocali wheelset at 32 outer and 26 inner, then Farlow wheelset is 35 outerwidth and 29 inner. Nox has a great reputation and the price is really not that bad, usually can be had for 5-$600 over the I9 aluminum wheelset. The Nox can be built up with your choice of hubs too.
    Or these for $180 a rim and have a builder put it all together for you for less than NOX.

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  15. #5015
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rev. 14 View Post
    You must have purchased your LTc before the lifetime warranty took effect in 2015? Or were you a second owner? I say that because the few frames that people here report have cracked, had been replaced for next to nothing if in warranty and first owner.
    Actually I bought it new in June '15 from a Santa Cruz dealer. It was the last one within a hundred miles from where I live. They(SC) said it wasn't warranted because I previously scratched it right where the crack occurred. I had the bike for just over a year and would have preferred to get another one but they are long gone. My buddy had his struck by lightning and got the same deal as I did.

    Believe me I wasn't too happy about the decision from SC.

  16. #5016
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    Just rode mine the other day, got a rare late january ride in. I forgot how sweet this bike is. 5 years old design but still I think my favorite bike to date. And I've had quite a few.

  17. #5017
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    I've got a chance to get a 2015 Tallboy ltc with fox 34 forks, in good nick for about $3000 usd. I am looking for a good climbing / descending fast fun bike. Is it worth it? Or is the geometry and old version of the bike just not worth it? I have been considering a short travel 29er. process 111 or similar, or a rocky mountain thunderbolt (I know smaller wheel but I don't really mind).

    Does the tallboy ltc feel more like you are on the bike - or in the bike type thing?

  18. #5018
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    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by froutts View Post
    I've got a chance to get a 2015 Tallboy ltc with fox 34 forks, in good nick for about $3000 usd. I am looking for a good climbing / descending fast fun bike. Is it worth it? Or is the geometry and old version of the bike just not worth it? I have been considering a short travel 29er. process 111 or similar, or a rocky mountain thunderbolt (I know smaller wheel but I don't really mind).

    Does the tallboy ltc feel more like you are on the bike - or in the bike type thing?
    I can't comment on the price but as a bike the LTc is still very relevant in this day and age. I've had mine for four years and I have no need to replace it. The bike is still more capable at just about everything than its rider
    Last edited by TheNormsk; 02-10-2017 at 09:45 PM.

  19. #5019
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    I still love my LTc, it is still my go to daily rider in my garage. It has seen a little less bike time since October when I got my Bronson 2, but come spring I will be using the LTc 5 days a week.

    It is a great bike IMO, very capable yet not overly slack like the modern 130-150 travel 29ers so you don't get some of the weird climbing characteristics with slow speed stuff.

    The only way I'd get rid of my LTc is if I found an XL or XXL LTc frame used cheap and then it would only be a frame swap.

  20. #5020
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    Well you are on the TBLTc thread so you won't get many neg votes and I won't give you one either. Its a great bike and will be for a long time. I converted mine to 27.5 Plus and it made the bike even more capable and just more fun.

    Your deal looks reasonable as its the last year they were made and they hold their value as I'm sure you've seen. Really depends what it has for goodies, wheels, drive train, brakes, rear shock...

    I would still have mine, but I got a crash replacement Hightower when my frame cracked. It was a freak thing, I don't believe the bike is prone to breaking, SC has the carbon thing down.
    For 3k you will be hard pressed to find a better ride if its specced even fairly decently.

    Good Luck

  21. #5021
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    This is similar to the discussions going on about the OG Ripley. People can't fathom that the new 'Long and slack' doesn't work for everyone.
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  22. #5022
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    Thanks for the replies. Yes, the LTC has one stans flow on hope rear wheel, unknown hub with a carbon rim front, xt brakes, fox 34 kashima forks, ks lev dropper, chris king headset, cod kashima rear shock. One small scratch on top tube where brake lever caught it, it does look good. But for about $750 more I can get a new Rocky mountain thunderbolt 730 msl, or transition scout, banshee phantom, and so on. So the new bike with warranty etc, or the older but still great tallboy ? I am not sure.. I'm sure it would be a lovely bike to ride though

  23. #5023
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    Sold mine today. Immediately regretted it. F.

  24. #5024
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    Getting my pike increased to 150mm travel next week. Figured might as well do it since I'm getting the shock and fork seals/wipers all replaced and new oil, with over 2k miles I figure it was time. Still loving my LTc.

  25. #5025
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    I'm thinking about parting with mine to fund another purchase. Will be hard to let her go.

  26. #5026
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    Quote Originally Posted by hillharman View Post
    I'm thinking about parting with mine to fund another purchase. Will be hard to let her go.
    It was tough but I'm in school and I need the money! I'm always gonna miss that bike.
    Dude got a hell of a deal too, full XO1, carbon wheels, ks LEV ti, carbon bits, PIKE, Monarch+... $3k. Sigh.

  27. #5027
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    Getting her ready for spring, got a new fox float and a few other updates coming also. Cant wait for the weather to dry out here in oregon!
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  28. #5028
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    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread-20170311_150532.jpg
    Making the best use of my time.
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    Rotors, Pads & Bleed.

  29. #5029
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    I just picked up a 2015 LTc S build.

    What is the biggest tire I can run on the rear without any rubbing? The front looks like I could run a 2.4 possibly but I'm not 100 percent though.

  30. #5030
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    I run a 2.4 front and rear on my LTc on a 25.5 ID rim. If I ever dork these stan's flow ex rims I'm going with Nox Farlows next. Plenty of room for 2.4s.

  31. #5031
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin513 View Post
    I run a 2.4 front and rear on my LTc on a 25.5 ID rim. If I ever dork these stan's flow ex rims I'm going with Nox Farlows next. Plenty of room for 2.4s.
    Got any pics of the clearance by any chance?

  32. #5032
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    Running DHF 2.5 front and Ardent 2.4 rear. 30 mm ID rims. Plenty of room. I did get some rub with a 2.35 Hanz Damp on rear but ran it till worn out just fine.


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  33. #5033
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    Quote Originally Posted by Structure View Post
    Running DHF 2.5 front and Ardent 2.4 rear. 30 mm ID rims. Plenty of room. I did get some rub with a 2.35 Hanz Damp on rear but ran it till worn out just fine.


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    I'd like to avoid rubbing, is there something special about the Hanz that caused rubbing where the Ardent doesn't?

  34. #5034
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    I have an aluminum lt with 30mm id rims. Im running 2.6 Schwalbe Nobby Nic on the front and 2.3 high roller 2 on the rear. The Nobby actually measures just over 2.5 and my fox 34 still has plenty of room. Anything bigger than 2.6 on the front and its getting pretty tight. Better off getting a boost fork. On the rear I wouldnt go over 2.4...but a 2.5 might fit but then again its getting tight. Also depends on how big your leg muscles are.... extreme torque might cause your chain stay yoke to experience thermally activated isokinetic vibrations thus causing your tire casing to expand up to 1.5 sizes. The physics of going full enduro are definitely at play here!

  35. #5035
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    Here is a picture of the clearance.




  36. #5036
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    Quote Originally Posted by sikkfreerider View Post
    Here is a picture of the clearance.

    Thanks for the pic. I think I'm going to go 2.3 or 2.35 in the rear, and keep it at half enduro just to be safe. 👍

  37. #5037
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris2183 View Post
    I'd like to avoid rubbing, is there something special about the Hanz that caused rubbing where the Ardent doesn't?
    I think Hanz Damp has a larger casing but I was also running Arch EX wheels then so it might also have been a flexing issue.


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  38. #5038
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    Does anyone have a picture of a drilled stealth routing dropper port? Reverb bit the dust and I'm doing anything but bleeding hydraulic remotes again


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  39. #5039
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    Quote Originally Posted by cecald View Post
    Does anyone have a picture of a drilled stealth routing dropper port? Reverb bit the dust and I'm doing anything but bleeding hydraulic remotes again


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    Do yourself a favor and get a KS Lev or the Fox transfer that has external routing. There's a guide for the underside of the top tube and the cable entry for the post is fixed at the seattube collar. By my own experience the KS Lev is rock solid and all reports on the Transfer are stellar.

  40. #5040
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    Quote Originally Posted by cecald View Post
    Does anyone have a picture of a drilled stealth routing dropper port? Reverb bit the dust and I'm doing anything but bleeding hydraulic remotes again


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    I posted pics earlier in a separate thread, I believe. SC even sent me a rubber grommet. 9Point8 Fall Line.

    Stealth Routing
    Last edited by reamer41; 03-18-2017 at 10:57 AM.
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  41. #5041
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    Same exact thing happend to me. Liked reverb but was soooo done with rebuilds and the hydraulic mess. Was going to drill the hole and gromet thing but.... Ended up going with the ks lev instead. Like said above it is stationary at the seat post collar. Either way your going to have a dropper cable running down the top tube or down tube. I love the ks, my dad has been running his for years no problem.

  42. #5042
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    Quote Originally Posted by sikkfreerider View Post
    Same exact thing happend to me. Liked reverb but was soooo done with rebuilds and the hydraulic mess. Was going to drill the hole and gromet thing but.... Ended up going with the ks lev instead. Like said above it is stationary at the seat post collar. Either way your going to have a dropper cable running down the top tube or down tube. I love the ks, my dad has been running his for years no problem.
    +1 on KS

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  43. #5043
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    However, mine has a bit of rotational play. Anyone has the same?

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  44. #5044
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    How much play are you talking about? Mines over a year old and only rotates like a millimeter or less. A reasonable amount would be normal? If your feeling it while riding id say its a problem.

  45. #5045
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    Yes. Very slight, but not noticable during riding. Annoying though.

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  46. #5046
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    Tallboy LT and LTc Owners Thread

    I'm on my second KS (150mm Ti). I also have play but honestly I can't notice it with my butt. It's only when wiggling it off the bike that it appears. I did have to rebuild my first LV (125mm) and had to send my current post in for warranty work but over all the post is nice.


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  47. #5047
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    Thanks for the replies. KS lev on order. Still love this bike!


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  48. #5048
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    Has anyone tried running 650+?

  49. #5049
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spooled View Post
    Has anyone tried running 650+?
    You'll have to look through the thread but there are many TBLT's running 650+, I've seen some on ebay too.

  50. #5050
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rev. 14 View Post
    You'll have to look through the thread but there are many TBLT's running 650+, I've seen some on ebay too.
    This and I thought I remember there was a 650+ post for the TBLT as well.

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