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Thread: Superlight Love

  1. #851
    NedwannaB
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    Quote Originally Posted by saddle pimp View Post
    I have Crossmarks 2.1 front and rear, built the SL mainly for XC runs... i might remove the tabs and hope to remove all shims and getting the whole travel back... =)
    Crossmarks here too. For the mean time til my Fastraks come in....

    Specialized Bicycle Components
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  2. #852
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    Forgive my stupidity, but I'm confused on what wheel sizes are compatible with the Superlight 3.3. SC's description of "Sparse" is quite generous, there is almost no info there, nor on the rest of the site. What model is a Superlight 29? I know the 3.2 is a straight head tube, and the 3.3 is tapered, but totally in the dark on wheel size.

    TIA

  3. #853
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    3.2 and 3.3 are both 26 inch wheels. None the worse for it either IMHO! As for a Superlight 29, no idea on specs etc, sorry.

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    Thx Bish, that answers my question! Going to build one for my daughter using one of those frames on special, her bike is going to be nicer than mine! Going to go 650b, because I can never leave stuff "as designed", I'm always trying to improve.... Now to find a fork deal......

  5. #855
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    She'll enjoy it! I moved from a carbon 120mm travel bike and love the direct XC feel of my 3.3!

  6. #856
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    Rear derailleur cable routing?

    First time owning a SC frame. Having shop built up and having shifting issues with 1x setup. New cable/housing routed on left side and tight wrap around headtube and under top tube(front der cable stops??)vs right side cable stops and on down tube and across top of chain stay.
    Could this be part of my problem?
    How does it typically route?
    Thanks in advance.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Superlight Love-img_20140226_210851_072.jpg  

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  7. #857
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    Superlight Love-img_20140227_150429.jpg

    Mine goes down the down tube (on the right hand side as you look down from sitting on the bike) to the cable guide on the swing arm. It doesn't travel along the top tube at all. You want some pics?
    Last edited by bish; 02-27-2014 at 01:07 PM. Reason: add picture

  8. #858
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    This is the way I do my bikes. It creates a gradual bend from the handlebar to the down tube this way and I never have an issue with shifting. I just zip tie the rear brake line over the derailleur line on that first cable guide. No rubbing on the head tube area this way. I just happen to have the rear brake off today to a bleed tonight.

    Superlight Love-100_0189.jpg

  9. #859
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flip D View Post
    This is the way I do my bikes. It creates a gradual bend from the handlebar to the down tube this way and I never have an issue with shifting. I just zip tie the rear brake line over the derailleur line on that first cable guide. No rubbing on the head tube area this way. I just happen to have the rear brake off today to a bleed tonight.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I actually went to a shop that has some Santa Cruz bikes and chkd the routing which is 1st pic, on shifter side of head tube. Part of my deal may be with the XO gripshift housing fitting sticking out farther and parallel to bars it can't turn on the same side of head tube. I'll redo it as in 2nd pic, around left side and on downtube.
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  10. #860
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    Superlight Love-img_4908.jpg Superlight Love-img_4909.jpg Superlight Love-img_4921.jpg

    Here's my SL all built up. Headed out tomorrow to put some more miles on her. Need to shorten brake hoses still but besides that it's running well. 650b 2.1 nevegal in the rear and 2.35 in front. No rubbing from what I can tell and in the descent mode on the rear shock I went to full compression on my last ride.

    So far, so good! A lot of fun to ride through the flowy corners.

  11. #861
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    First time owning a SC frame. Having shop built up and having shifting issues with 1x setup. New cable/housing routed on left side and tight wrap around headtube and under top tube(front der cable stops??)vs right side cable stops and on down tube and across top of chain stay.
    Could this be part of my problem?
    How does it typically route?
    Thanks in advance.

    A bike shop did this? Wow what a bunch on morons ..... Since when on any bike do you route the rear der to the top tube...also they left the cable on the bottom triangle bare from what I can see it's not supposed to be bare there's no cable stop it's just a zip tie holder.... I'd take it back and ask for somone who actually knows how to turn a wrench to do it the right way..... I can take pics of my heckler and show you the way it should be done the routing is similar

  12. #862
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    Quote Originally Posted by Njhardrock View Post
    A bike shop did this? Wow what a bunch on morons ..... Since when on any bike do you route the rear der to the top tube...also they left the cable on the bottom triangle bare from what I can see it's not supposed to be bare there's no cable stop it's just a zip tie holder.... I'd take it back and ask for somone who actually knows how to turn a wrench to do it the right way..... I can take pics of my heckler and show you the way it should be done the routing is similar
    Well I wouldn't go that far with comment.

    Actually the factory built setup out of box on the '13 3.3 SL's in the shop had full rear housing on top of lower stay. My 3.2 has cable stops. Might be because it's a '12. I will look into full housing on redo.

    And yes its running in full 650B/27.5 xc mode, as is my ht SS bike! Way to go for me. 2.1 CrosssMarks on it now but tried my ss wheel on back with a 2.2 Beeline for fit and looked good. That with a Vigilante and 120 fork up front I can venture onto some more challenging trails. Might buzzoff the rr der cable stop since running 1x. (Still on fence with that)

    Thanks all for tips!
    Last edited by JMac47; 03-02-2014 at 08:53 AM. Reason: more info
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  13. #863
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    Quote Originally Posted by brownc9 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I have a med 3.2. Your 3.3 frame seems to have abit more space from the inside head tube triangle down to the first cable/hose stops. Mine are jammed farther up. That may be part of my setup issue too.

    Thanks for pic.
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  14. #864
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    Quote Originally Posted by brownc9 View Post
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    Here's my SL all built up. Headed out tomorrow to put some more miles on her. Need to shorten brake hoses still but besides that it's running well. 650b 2.1 nevegal in the rear and 2.35 in front. No rubbing from what I can tell and in the descent mode on the rear shock I went to full compression on my last ride.

    So far, so good! A lot of fun to ride through the flowy corners.
    did you shim the rear shocks? no rubbing with the Nevegals?

  15. #865
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    looking into buying a used SC SL RXC assuming the frame and components are intact. Not sure what the year is either 2010 or 2011. it being used, what type of things should I look for and are there any differences in components between the two years? first FS if I buy. looks like this...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Superlight Love-scsuperlight11.jpg  


  16. #866
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    Quote Originally Posted by james035 View Post
    looking into buying a used SC SL RXC assuming the frame and components are intact. Not sure what the year is either 2010 or 2011. it being used, what type of things should I look for and are there any differences in components between the two years? first FS if I buy. looks like this...
    Checking in, did you pick up that SL?
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  17. #867
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    Just got a 2nd hand superlight frame and build it up with parts from other bikes. it work well with 650b

    Superlight Love-sl2.jpg
    Superlight Love-sl3.jpg
    Superlight Love-sl4.jpg

  18. #868
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    Quote Originally Posted by saddle pimp View Post
    did you shim the rear shocks? no rubbing with the Nevegals?
    No shimming and no rubbing observed yet. The trail I've been riding is pretty mellow with no drops are super harsh areas so take that for what it's worth.

  19. #869
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    Quote Originally Posted by brownc9 View Post
    No shimming and no rubbing observed yet. The trail I've been riding is pretty mellow with no drops are super harsh areas so take that for what it's worth.
    thanks for the info... will remove the shims I installed, I am running 2.1 crossmarks so I guess a little bit more room compared to the Nevegals. Thanks

  20. #870
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    Quote Originally Posted by saddle pimp View Post
    thanks for the info... will remove the shims I installed, I am running 2.1 crossmarks so I guess a little bit more room compared to the Nevegals. Thanks
    Just got mine running with CrossMarks aswell. I did get one tire buzz from the fr derailleur cable stop due to a bad line decision hopping over a downhill ditch. I need to check shock psi. That may be the culprit.
    Was thinking to remove the cable stop since I'm running 1x and put a BeeLine or Wolv in back. Will have to chk clearances first.

    Superlight Love-sl-mt-st-helena.jpg
    Superlight Love-sl-ben-pk.jpg
    Superlight Love-sl-frnt.jpg
    Last edited by JMac47; 03-17-2014 at 10:32 AM. Reason: more info
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  21. #871
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    I bought a wolverine but it won't fit 650b without shimming the shock.

  22. #872
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    Guys, if you let the air out of the shock and the tire hits the cable stop or seattube at full compression, you need to shim the shock. Just adding pressure to avoid using travel is not only wasting suspension, but could be dangerous.

  23. #873
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountainbiker24 View Post
    Guys, if you let the air out of the shock and the tire hits the cable stop or seattube at full compression, you need to shim the shock. Just adding pressure to avoid using travel is not only wasting suspension, but could be dangerous.
    I agree, will try the Crossmarks first, if they rub I will do a hacksaw job, my SL is 1x10 already...

  24. #874
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    Just got mine running with CrossMarks aswell. I did get one tire buzz from the fr derailleur cable stop due to a bad line decision hopping over a downhill ditch. I need to check shock psi. That may be the culprit.
    Was thinking to remove the cable stop since I'm running 1x and put a BeeLine or Wolv in back. Will have to chk clearances first.

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    is your travel set as 100 mm? I have a F series set at 120 mm? would it ride better lowered to 100 mm?

  25. #875
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountainbiker24 View Post
    Guys, if you let the air out of the shock and the tire hits the cable stop or seattube at full compression, you need to shim the shock. Just adding pressure to avoid using travel is not only wasting suspension, but could be dangerous.
    Yes. I just didn't check what pressure shock had in it initially.

    I know sag is one factor, but is there a starting point for psi in relation to rider weight? My frame supposedly has the RP23 CTD, non-Kashima coating. Also for the fork which is the FOX F100 RL w/handlebar pop lock.

    Thanks in advance.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  26. #876
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    Quote Originally Posted by saddle pimp View Post
    is your travel set as 100 mm? I have a F series set at 120 mm? would it ride better lowered to 100 mm?
    Yes it's a F100. This model can only be adjusted down to 80(maybe lower?...). I do plan on getting a 120mm 650 specific fork in the future so I can run the bigger tires and not worry about jamming up and going OTB. :@

    As for how it works compared to 120 travel setup I have not tried it out yet. I had it built up first off with a Float 130 reduced to 110 travel for one ride and it was great. I had to take that fork off to use on a longer travel bike I was selling unfortunately. When I get the 120 fork I will most likely run a wider/flat bar to adjust handlebar height for the increase in AC of that fork.
    Last edited by JMac47; 03-18-2014 at 10:13 AM. Reason: more info
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  27. #877
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    Yes. I just didn't check what pressure shock had in it initially.

    I know sag is one factor, but is there a starting point for psi in relation to rider weight? My frame supposedly has the RP23 CTD, non-Kashima coating. Also for the fork which is the FOX F100 RL w/handlebar pop lock.

    Thanks in advance.
    There is a recommended pressure chart released by Santa Cruz, but I forget what the values are. Sag should be set at about 20%, which is about 10 mm of shock travel. I didn't like the feel of the shock, so I put in a volume reducing spacer to add bottoming resistance while softening initial compliance. I had to add shims to stop my tire from rubbing on the seattube, which reduces shock travel by about 3 mm. I don't recall exactly how much pressure I'm running, but it's about 150 psi. I weigh about 190 pounds ready to ride.

  28. #878
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    THanks.
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  29. #879
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    Yes it's a F100. This model can only be adjusted down to 80(maybe lower?...). I do plan on getting a 120mm 650 specific fork in the future so I can run the bigger tires and not worry about jamming up and going OTB. :@

    As for how it works compared to 120 travel setup I have not tried it out yet. I had it built up first off with a Float 130 reduced to 110 travel for one ride and it was great. I had to take that fork off to use on a longer travel bike I was selling unfortunately. When I get the 120 fork I will most likely run a wider/flat bar to adjust handlebar height for the increase in AC of that fork.
    it rides well at 120 mm for me, i have a Monkey Lite uncut handle bar and a 60 mm stem, will probably keep it as it is... thanks for the input...

  30. #880
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    Quote Originally Posted by saddle pimp View Post
    it rides well at 120 mm for me, i have a Monkey Lite uncut handle bar and a 60 mm stem, will probably keep it as it is... thanks for the input...
    Good bar/stem setup. I have 90mm stems on my 2 bikes with the same low rise xc riser bars but the SL may get a shorter one like maybe a 70mm if I decide to keep my riser bars instead of putting on the flat/9*sweep.
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  31. #881
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    Im finally wrapping up building my 03 SL frame i picked up during the early winter and planned on a budget build but kind of got carried away with it. I stripped and repainted it metallic black (I do paint and body work for a living) and started to build from there using some parts i had laying around. oh and still running 26s...

    Superlight Love-sl-sweet2.jpg

    Fox 32 RL F120 G2
    Fox RP3 rear shock
    Easton monkeylite xc bars
    XTR m960 converted 1x9, mrp chain guide
    X9 shifter, X9 rear derailleur, XT cassette
    XT m785 hydro brakes (XTR rotors are on the way)
    XT Wheels, maxxis highrollers

    weighs in just under 25lbs...not bad for under $1500 total!

  32. #882
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    Good to see the old Superlight frames still around. They are great rides.

  33. #883
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    I am enjoying it alot, after I painted it I replaced the pivot bearings and pins and it rides great. The RP3 is a little sloppy but im actively looking for a proper replacement, that meets my high standards. Any suggestions for a rear shock on this frame?

  34. #884
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    Quote Originally Posted by ledrefoc View Post
    I am enjoying it alot, after I painted it I replaced the pivot bearings and pins and it rides great. The RP3 is a little sloppy but im actively looking for a proper replacement, that meets my high standards. Any suggestions for a rear shock on this frame?
    Nice rebuild! You could either send the shock into PUSH or another suspension vendor for revalve overhaul, or pick up an RP23 for similar $$. I don't think those era frames support 27.5's.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  35. #885
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    Nice rebuild! You could either send the shock into PUSH or another suspension vendor for revalve overhaul, or pick up an RP23 for similiar $$. I don't think those era frames support 27.5's.
    I have seen a few running 650bs but with the fork and rear shock shimmed, and front derailleur cable guide cut off. But id rather have beefier 26s especially since it likes to rain the day before I go ride the trails, seems like everytime...

    And yeah ive been watching a few rp23s on ebay, but just dont want to throw another $300 at it right now. My girlfriend wants a ring and I dont mean a chainring....but hey whats really more important?

  36. #886
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    I just picked up a new 2013 Superlight 29. Lovin it


  37. #887
    Hi There!
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    Been riding my Superlight 29 Rxc for almost a year....love, love, love it.

    Carry on.
    NTFTC

  38. #888
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    Superlight Love

    Converted my 26 over to 650b last weekend. Riding nice and feeling good so far.



    @CigarsNJeeps
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Superlight Love-imageuploadedbytapatalkhd1397424180.404421.jpg  


  39. #889
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerryp View Post
    Converted my 26 over to 650b last weekend. Riding nice and feeling good so far.



    @CigarsNJeeps
    What 650b wheelset did you go with?

  40. #890
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    Flow EX wheels, Mavic Crosroc roam 2.2 tires, and Enix XFusion 650 forks.

    Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by kerryp; 04-14-2014 at 06:48 PM.

  41. #891
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    ZTR hubs?
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  42. #892
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    Superlight Love

    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    ZTR hubs?
    Stans 3.30 and 3.30HD Hubs

    Bought the wheels off craigslist from a guy that started a project but changed directions, so I got a pretty decent deal.


    @CigarsNJeeps

  43. #893
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    Another 650b build almost done.
    xt hollowtech crank w/32t narrow wide
    xt shadow +
    xt 10sp cassette
    xt chain
    xt hydro brakes
    xt icetech 160mm rotors
    xt trail clipless pedals
    xtr 10sp shifter
    wtb frequency I23 tcs xt hub & 15mm front
    rockshox revelation rct3 120mm 650b
    king,easton,raceface,etc..

    just waiting for brakes to get here to finish it up



    Superlight Love-rgrger.jpgSuperlight Love-unnamed.jpgSuperlight Love-gfr.jpg
    Last edited by CDK; 04-16-2014 at 08:05 AM.

  44. #894
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    Superlight Love

    Very nice. Something about white SL's that just look good. Be sure to post an update when its finished.


    @CigarsNJeeps

  45. #895
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    Thanks. i will definitely post it up again when its finished.
    Im already tossing the idea of changing the chain ring to the 34t because it is clear that the 32t will make the chain rub the tabs on the crank. Anyone know what people are using as spacers to fix the 32t chain rubbing?

  46. #896
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    I have converted 3 cranks for the 32T. One SLX, one XT, and one XTR.

    Simply grind the tabs at a 45 degree angle on the gear side with a bench grinder, or hand grinder. Go to the bolt hole, NO FURTHER. Then use paint to blacken the silver part you left behind. The chain will have more than enough room, and this method won't affect the chain line.

    I have heard of some ghetto guys that just put the chain on and it rubbed for 3-5 rides then didn't, after it cleared itself.

  47. #897
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    Very nice indeed. Cant quite make out what tires are you are running?
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  48. #898
    CDK
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    Thanks!
    Tires are WTB Vigilante 2.3 I cut the front derailleur tabs off but have not yet checked if i will need to shim the shock

  49. #899
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    Quote Originally Posted by CDK View Post
    Thanks!
    Tires are WTB Vigilante 2.3 I cut the front derailleur tabs off but have not yet checked if i will need to shim the shock
    Really, in back huh. I thought maybe Vig was up front. I have one waiting in the wings to run up front on mine but they won't fit untill I can switch to 650 fork. Wolverine in bac when I do.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  50. #900
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    Yeah the tread on the tires is pretty big so i may need to shim the shock which I am fine with. I am in Phoenix and all of our trails are a dry, loose, rocky mess and the tread on the vigilantes looks to be in order.

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