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Thread: Solo request

  1. #1
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    Solo request

    So I'm working to make a move from my faithful blt2 to a "brolo" and I have a request. I'm trying to decide on fork length. Going with a pike cc db inline combo.

    I love to descend and do so pretty agressively. In the past, i have "over forked" a couple bikes to get slacker hta's and my climbing (already a weakness) has suffered. I really want my solo to be a great climber and to smash the decents as well.

    Trying to decide between 130 and 140. Considering a zero stack lower and the 140 pike. Anyone gone this route? Pics? Thx!

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    I went with the 140 Pike on my 5010 with a Dbinline out back. The 5010s 68 degree HTA is based on a 519 A/C measurement. My Pike 140 A/C is 529/530mm. The bike rides great AFAIC. I never rode the 5010 with a 130mm so I can't provide a comparison.

    The original fork on the bike was a 140 Fox Float CTD. A/C on that one was 525. So a small increase in a/c to get the pike.

    ETA: I attempted to use my trusty clinometer on the fork legs. Needle dances around to much to get an super accurate read, but it tends to "settle" in the 67.25 to 67.5 degree range.
    2014 Santa Cruz 5010c
    2000 Litespeed Tanasi
    1992 GT Bravado LE

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    Quote Originally Posted by challybert View Post
    I went with the 140 Pike on my 5010 with a Dbinline out back. The 5010s 68 degree HTA is based on a 519 A/C measurement. My Pike 140 A/C is 529/530mm. The bike rides great AFAIC. I never rode the 5010 with a 130mm so I can't provide a comparison.

    The original fork on the bike was a 140 Fox Float CTD. A/C on that one was 525. So a small increase in a/c to get the pike.

    ETA: I attempted to use my trusty clinometer on the fork legs. Needle dances around to much to get an super accurate read, but it tends to "settle" in the 67.25 to 67.5 degree range.
    Great info thx. How are you finding the climbs @ 140? How much body english (dropping elbows etc) needed when things get steep?

  4. #4
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    Solo request

    I'm on a 150 Pike. It gets a bit light in the front on steep steeps. I have the 140 airshaft and will eventually get around to installing it

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gravitythief76 View Post
    Great info thx. How are you finding the climbs @ 140? How much body english (dropping elbows etc) needed when things get steep?
    Well, given that I'm generally praying/cursing and gasping for air in these situations, I'm essentially hunched over for all the wrong reasons. However, for more moderate climbs (steep but not terribly long) I have no appreciable change in body position than what I'd consider normal. Yeah, I probably get my chest more forward/down than what I used to do but not to the point of being overly concious of it.

    Keep in mind I'm coming from a Litespeed Tanasi hardtail from 2000-2001. Like day and night in terms of geometry. Others may be able to chime in better here.

    edit for spelling and stuff
    2014 Santa Cruz 5010c
    2000 Litespeed Tanasi
    1992 GT Bravado LE

  6. #6
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    One thing to consider is that a 36 of equivalent length with have 5mm less A-C height, compared to a Pike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    One thing to consider is that a 36 of equivalent length with have 5mm less A-C height, compared to a Pike.
    What's the weight penalty for the 2015. Fox36 vs.the Pike in 27.5?

    I've been "just adding 200g here and there" to the point of my 5010 weighing a bit under a 1.5 pounds more than when I first got it. All for the better but it's now becoming a slight concern for me.
    2014 Santa Cruz 5010c
    2000 Litespeed Tanasi
    1992 GT Bravado LE

  8. #8
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    That I do not know, but the new 36 weighs less than the 34.

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    You will not be able to go zero-stack on the 49mm lower unless you can find a straight 1 1/8" Pike, which I don't think exists.

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    Quote Originally Posted by veteran_youth View Post
    You will not be able to go zero-stack on the 49mm lower unless you can find a straight 1 1/8" Pike, which I don't think exists.
    This is correct.

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    Cool.Thx

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    i have the same set up at challybert, inline and 140 pike. i originally run for about a month the pike at 150 and i did notice the front to wonder in climbs. when i dropped to to 140 it suddenly felt planted. during this time i was also playing about with sticking a shorter stem on my bike getting the right width of the handlebars etc. one of the better things i did at this time was to lower the stem. this helped with both the climbing and downs.
    just recently i needed to send my pike away for a warranty issue with the drive side bottom bolt. with the prospect of not having a fork for a few weeks, a friend lent me a 150 fox 34 (which is in real need of a service, but at least i am riding.) anyway i dropped the stem as low as it will go to compensate, and it is still doable. when i get my pike back i will also keep the stem at this lowest point.

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    Yes you can use a pike with a zero stack lower cup, you just need to know what headset to pick. To do it you can use whatever upper cup you want but you need a FSA Orbit E internal lower cup.

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    All good info thanks.

  15. #15
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    I'm running a slightly longer than stock X-Fusion fork on my 5010 - it measured about 10mm longer than stock, so it's not too far away from the "stock" length. The bike climbs well. The only issue that I notice is that at really low speeds the front end tends to wander a bit and it takes some work to keep it moving straight ahead. At higher speeds or when I'm able to give it more power there's no issue.
    Each bicycle owned exponentially increases the probability that none is working correctly.

  16. #16
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    Re: Solo request

    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Draper View Post
    Yes you can use a pike with a zero stack lower cup, you just need to know what headset to pick. To do it you can use whatever upper cup you want but you need a FSA Orbit E internal lower cup.
    Are those FSA lower cups still in production?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gravitythief76 View Post
    So I'm working to make a move from my faithful blt2 to a "brolo" and I have a request. I'm trying to decide on fork length. Going with a pike cc db inline combo.

    I love to descend and do so pretty agressively. In the past, i have "over forked" a couple bikes to get slacker hta's and my climbing (already a weakness) has suffered. I really want my solo to be a great climber and to smash the decents as well.

    Trying to decide between 130 and 140. Considering a zero stack lower and the 140 pike. Anyone gone this route? Pics? Thx!
    I've tried pretty much all of those options
    I went from a Bronson to a Solo.. Ran different length forks, and went down the rabbit hole with the zero stack lower headset.
    Also, I'm in the unique position of upsizing between the Bronson and the Solo so I kept the wheelbase virtually the same
    the Bronson went downhill excellent and climbed very well. the Solo climbs better then the Bronson and rails the flow trails.
    but, you really have to pay attention bombing the chunk. Just as an experiment I even ran the Bronson a few times with a 140 Pike
    it actually handled very much like my Solo does now...
    For me I prefer the Solo with a 140 Pike, the Avy modified fox shock and, a EC 49/40 lower headset.
    I sourced the zero stack lower headset and it didn't make enough of a difference to justify the really crappy quality of the headset itself
    The Chris King headset went back on after only a few rides with the FSA one.
    Overall I would say if descending is your priority with a trailbike. The Bronson is the best option.
    You really don't give away enough climbing ability to the Solo to justify the big advantage the Bronson has in downhill chunk.
    Even with the 140 Pike on the front of the Solo it absoluty rips left to right quick transitions. It's easier to manual (although not by much)
    While the numbers don't reflect the Solo having a much lower BB height it sure feels a lot lower.
    At first I had some issues with pedal strikes. It didn't take too long to adjust and while I still smack a pedal once and awhile it's not a problem

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by jazzanova View Post
    Are those FSA lower cups still in production?
    nope.. I called everyone that used to offer them
    There are a few "New Old Stock" lying around in shops... I got mine from the UK.
    it was branded as a Gravity 4
    I've seen the FSA ones on Amazon but I think all of those are gone.
    IMO they are just not worth the 5mm difference in ride height.
    One of the races is aluminum rather then steel
    They have cheap caged bearings instead of a sealed cartridge
    And virtually no weather protection to speak of

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyinmike View Post
    I've tried pretty much all of those options
    I went from a Bronson to a Solo.. Ran different length forks, and went down the rabbit hole with the zero stack lower headset.
    Also, I'm in the unique position of upsizing between the Bronson and the Solo so I kept the wheelbase virtually the same
    the Bronson went downhill excellent and climbed very well. the Solo climbs better then the Bronson and rails the flow trails.
    but, you really have to pay attention bombing the chunk. Just as an experiment I even ran the Bronson a few times with a 140 Pike
    it actually handled very much like my Solo does now...
    For me I prefer the Solo with a 140 Pike, the Avy modified fox shock and, a EC 49/40 lower headset.
    I sourced the zero stack lower headset and it didn't make enough of a difference to justify the really crappy quality of the headset itself
    The Chris King headset went back on after only a few rides with the FSA one.
    Overall I would say if descending is your priority with a trailbike. The Bronson is the best option.
    You really don't give away enough climbing ability to the Solo to justify the big advantage the Bronson has in downhill chunk.
    Even with the 140 Pike on the front of the Solo it absoluty rips left to right quick transitions. It's easier to manual (although not by much)
    While the numbers don't reflect the Solo having a much lower BB height it sure feels a lot lower.
    At first I had some issues with pedal strikes. It didn't take too long to adjust and while I still smack a pedal once and awhile it's not a problem
    Great info. Thx for sharing your experience!

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