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  1. #1401
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jukas View Post
    The HTLT has the same ST Angle as the 5010. Are you going to try and tell us the Nomad climbs better than the 5010? I've heard from many people that the n4 peddles really well.. but you're the first to say it peddles better than a HTLT or their other 150 offerings.

    If it was true I'd grab one in a heart beat.. a 170 bike that peddles as well as my 150 Bronson, yes pls.
    Well I don't own and haven't ridden a Bronson but latest bible of bike test for the N4 the reviewers said they would easily take it over a Bronson (or hands down or something similar). So can take that for whatever it's worth. I can say it easily outpedals my old N2 so there is a lot more going on there than just travel. I think as they put it that it's really a big trail bike and not really a dh sled and I would say that's pretty accurate.
    Last edited by Jesse Hill; 1 Week Ago at 09:59 PM.

  2. #1402
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    The .8* seat tube angle difference between the Nomad and HTLT is equal to about a 10mm fore/aft seat rail adjustment. It shouldn't make that big of a difference if you have a bit of reach to spare.

  3. #1403
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    I jjust noticed Im running a little more sag than I like in the rear coil, Ive added a couple of preload spring turns to get the sag were I want it. ( I like @ 26%). This will also now effect my ride position and keep me higher in my travel which should make a huge improvement for me in overall endurance on a big day.
    I love these 2 bikes but cant wait for the N4 susp/geo to move over to other bike as there is definitely something special going on there.

  4. #1404
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    The .8* seat tube angle difference between the Nomad and HTLT is equal to about a 10mm fore/aft seat rail adjustment. It shouldn't make that big of a difference if you have a bit of reach to spare.
    It is a big difference if you are already running the seat all the way forward and your 10 mm calculation is dependent on how high you run the saddle. Coming off an 2017 Enduro 29/N3 I was very used to the steep SA and it does make for a much more efficient climbing position in steep technical climbs. With the slacker SA you have to spend a lot of energy keeping the front wheel down.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bradical View Post
    I jjust noticed Im running a little more sag than I like in the rear coil, Ive added a couple of preload spring turns to get the sag were I want it. ( I like @ 26%). This will also now effect my ride position and keep me higher in my travel which should make a huge improvement for me in overall endurance on a big day.
    I love these 2 bikes but cant wait for the N4 susp/geo to move over to other bike as there is definitely something special going on there.
    To answer your question about the offset bushings, they will slack out the SA by the same amount the HA is reduced. This is the frustration of not having the ability to run an angleset. If we could do that then it would slack out the HA and steepen the SA.

  5. #1405
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    Don't crucify me if I'm repeating someone else's sentiment, I haven't exactly followed every post on this thread but to me it seems like a lot of people are lost in the spreadsheet. I replaced my Spesh SJ FSR 29er with the HTLT and it blows it away in every regard. I come from an XC background so climbing efficiency is something I definitely notice. The HTLT just seems to rocket up everything and it definitely feels more poppy and playful than my SJ, while also descending more confidently. I don't have a ton of experience on big bikes but basically my point is don't let people sway you in either direction. You gotta ride a bike to see if it works for you. I also think getting hung up over fractions of a degree in the geo is something most wouldn't notice if they didn't read it on paper before hand. The HTLT is definitely a great bike and it seems to be getting a lot of love and positive reviews, so if it piques your interest, try it out!

  6. #1406
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    I would have bought a HTLT with a blink of an eye when it was released if it could take an Angleset. But not in its current form with steep HA and slack SA.

  7. #1407
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtn_dewd View Post
    Don't crucify me if I'm repeating someone else's sentiment, I haven't exactly followed every post on this thread but to me it seems like a lot of people are lost in the spreadsheet. I replaced my Spesh SJ FSR 29er with the HTLT and it blows it away in every regard. I come from an XC background so climbing efficiency is something I definitely notice. The HTLT just seems to rocket up everything and it definitely feels more poppy and playful than my SJ, while also descending more confidently. I don't have a ton of experience on big bikes but basically my point is don't let people sway you in either direction. You gotta ride a bike to see if it works for you. I also think getting hung up over fractions of a degree in the geo is something most wouldn't notice if they didn't read it on paper before hand. The HTLT is definitely a great bike and it seems to be getting a lot of love and positive reviews, so if it piques your interest, try it out!
    Exactly my thoughts on this bike, from a strictly numbers perspective anyone can talk themselves out of it or into it. But the proof is how it rides for you, which is based on which size you choose and how tall you are and the style of trails you ride. Personally ive found it beats anything ive ridden to date and is way faster according to the completely un-scientific method of Strava times. Ive owned Tracer, Capra, and ridden Remedy29, Marin Wolfridge and new rocky Instinct 29. The Instinct is very confidence inspiring but i did notice it is possibly less efficient/different in the climbing department. All that said i just like riding bikes and its hard to be objective about them these days they are all, for the most part, getting pretty damn dialed!

  8. #1408
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    The .8* seat tube angle difference between the Nomad and HTLT is equal to about a 10mm fore/aft seat rail adjustment. It shouldn't make that big of a difference if you have a bit of reach to spare.
    Quote Originally Posted by mtn_dewd View Post
    Don't crucify me if I'm repeating someone else's sentiment, I haven't exactly followed every post on this thread but to me it seems like a lot of people are lost in the spreadsheet. I replaced my Spesh SJ FSR 29er with the HTLT and it blows it away in every regard. I come from an XC background so climbing efficiency is something I definitely notice. The HTLT just seems to rocket up everything and it definitely feels more poppy and playful than my SJ, while also descending more confidently. I don't have a ton of experience on big bikes but basically my point is don't let people sway you in either direction. You gotta ride a bike to see if it works for you. I also think getting hung up over fractions of a degree in the geo is something most wouldn't notice if they didn't read it on paper before hand. The HTLT is definitely a great bike and it seems to be getting a lot of love and positive reviews, so if it piques your interest, try it out!
    First off the HTLT is an amazing bike and I think that SC knocked it out of the park. This is what the HT should have been from the beginning and if someone hasn't ridden it and it judging it by the spec sheet go find one to demo.

    That being said I agree with you for casual riders, but I can definitely feel the difference of .8* Even .5* is noticeable for a lot of us. Mounted up a 160 fork and noticed the difference immediately. Put in an offset bushing and again instant difference. I am expecting/hoping that they make the front end significantly longer, the SA significantly steeper and the HA moderately slacker.

  9. #1409
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    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    I am expecting/hoping that they make the front end significantly longer, the SA significantly steeper and the HA moderately slacker.
    +1

  10. #1410
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    I'm sure you can feel a difference. I'm just saying that if possible, sliding the seat forward 10mm relative to Nomad seat position would net the same seat angle. The HTLT even has about 10mm longer reach than the Nomad for the equivalent recommended size based on height. Obviously sliding the seat forward isn't a solution for everyone but it's also not like these bikes are even close to being on opposite ends of the seat angle spectrum.

  11. #1411
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    I'm sure you can feel a difference. I'm just saying that if possible, sliding the seat forward 10mm relative to Nomad seat position would net the same seat angle. The HTLT even has about 10mm longer reach than the Nomad for the equivalent recommended size based on height. Obviously sliding the seat forward isn't a solution for everyone but it's also not like these bikes are even close to being on opposite ends of the seat angle spectrum.
    Not so sure moving the seat 10mm will do it.
    Effective STA of these bikes might be close, but the actual STA of HTLT looks much slacker = the higher the seat, the further back it would be.
    Anyhow, I would be very sceptical about the real STA #. They should be measured at stack height and I strongly believe STA changes with different frame sizes. They just publish one number to make it easy.

    It is misleading to compare these bikes based on sizing recommendations.
    Reach of a M Nomad is almost identical with reach of L HTLT.
    L Nomad will definitely feel bigger than a L HTLT.

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  12. #1412
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    Quote Originally Posted by jazzanova View Post
    Not so sure moving the seat 10mm will do it.
    Or less than 10mm, it depends on seat height. That's why I said about 10mm. Yeah, actual STA can be a problem for taller riders.

    It is misleading to compare these bikes based on sizing recommendations.
    Reach of a M Nomad is almost identical with reach of L HTLT.
    L Nomad will definitely feel bigger than a L HTLT.
    You're right. Just scrap that comparison.

  13. #1413
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    Can someone comment on chainstay clearance with a 32t chainring? I'm building up a Hightower LT with Race Face Next SL cranks and want to run a 32t chainring. This helpful Wolf Tooth resource, https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...and-chainrings, indicates that I can run a non-boost chainring, with adequate chainstay clearance. If there isn't adequate clearance, I need to run a boost chainring with 3mm offset, rather than the traditional non-boost 6mm offset. The non-boost chainring supposedly provides a better 49mm chainline (the boost ring has a 52mm chainline).

    So, if I can obtain the better chainline with a non-boost ring, that is preferred, but if chainstay clearance is an issue with a 32t ring, then I'll have to run a boost ring.

  14. #1414
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    well im running a 32t boost but by my guesstimating and looking at my bike i think youll be fine. a 34t boost or 32t oval boost will fit too

  15. #1415
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    Quote Originally Posted by rox View Post
    well im running a 32t boost but by my guesstimating and looking at my bike i think youll be fine. a 34t boost or 32t oval boost will fit too
    Agree... I am running a 32t Oval by Wolftooth... Works great and clearance is not a concern.

  16. #1416
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    Quote Originally Posted by rippling over canyons View Post
    Can someone comment on chainstay clearance with a 32t chainring? I'm building up a Hightower LT with Race Face Next SL cranks and want to run a 32t chainring. This helpful Wolf Tooth resource, https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...and-chainrings, indicates that I can run a non-boost chainring, with adequate chainstay clearance. If there isn't adequate clearance, I need to run a boost chainring with 3mm offset, rather than the traditional non-boost 6mm offset. The non-boost chainring supposedly provides a better 49mm chainline (the boost ring has a 52mm chainline).

    So, if I can obtain the better chainline with a non-boost ring, that is preferred, but if chainstay clearance is an issue with a 32t ring, then I'll have to run a boost ring.
    BTW RF rings split the difference between Boost and non Boost so you will be fine. I run a 32T Boost oval which is the equivalent of a 34T without issue. Compare that to the 34T standard ring on my Hightower which left witness marks on my chainstay.

  17. #1417
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    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    It is a big difference if you are already running the seat all the way forward and your 10 mm calculation is dependent on how high you run the saddle. Coming off an 2017 Enduro 29/N3 I was very used to the steep SA and it does make for a much more efficient climbing position in steep technical climbs. With the slacker SA you have to spend a lot of energy keeping the front wheel down.

    To answer your question about the offset bushings, they will slack out the SA by the same amount the HA is reduced. This is the frustration of not having the ability to run an angleset. If we could do that then it would slack out the HA and steepen the SA.
    Hope you don't mind me picking your brain a bit.

    The steep SA for more efficient climbing makes a lot of sense. So in contrast, what's the benefit of a slack SA?

    As for the the angleset, what are the technical drawbacks of having a headtube that's angleset compatible? My understanding is that such head tubes are essentially straight 1.5s, so to run a regular tapered headset (cheaper for stock builds), all you need is a headset reducer bushing on top, which costs next to nothing. Is this a weight thing?

    Also from a mechanical standpoint, seems pretty easy to make an angleset that works with a tapered head tube. You might not get 1 degree of adjustability, but 1/2 a degree seems doable. It would probably increase your headset stack height, but most people don't slam their stems anyway.

  18. #1418
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    Just ordered a HTLT. I'm between 5'9-5'10. Do you think its best to keep the 150mm dropper post or possible to swap for a 170mm at my height?
    Last edited by Geoffkoop; 1 Week Ago at 02:17 PM.

  19. #1419
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    Quote Originally Posted by EricTheDood View Post
    Hope you don't mind me picking your brain a bit.

    The steep SA for more efficient climbing makes a lot of sense. So in contrast, what's the benefit of a slack SA?

    As for the the angleset, what are the technical drawbacks of having a headtube that's angleset compatible? My understanding is that such head tubes are essentially straight 1.5s, so to run a regular tapered headset (cheaper for stock builds), all you need is a headset reducer bushing on top, which costs next to nothing. Is this a weight thing?

    Also from a mechanical standpoint, seems pretty easy to make an angleset that works with a tapered head tube. You might not get 1 degree of adjustability, but 1/2 a degree seems doable. It would probably increase your headset stack height, but most people don't slam their stems anyway.
    The main benefit of a slacker SA is that it allows the rider to stretch out more while seated. I am not sure of the power implications of a slacker SA, but the 73* SA is historically based on road bike geometry. The position works for them since they spend hours on flat roads grinding and a steep climb is considered 6%. That 6% grade is average for MTB and we ride a lot of stuff that is above 15% grade. For example here is a popular climb in San Diego that averages 11%

    https://www.strava.com/segments/851667

    For the changes in the head tube design, I am not sure what is driving it. The problem with all of the new SC designs is that there are no cups at all. Instead the "cups" are molded into the carbon and the bearings sit directly on the carbon. I assume this is for weight and also to reduce cost at SC's level. Their marginal cost in the layup change is probably zero, but they reduce their full bike costs by $20-50 without the consumers expecting any reduction in MSRP. Doesn't sound like a lot, but multiply that times 5,000 frames and it starts to become real money.

    There is zero flexibility to change anything with this setup and you are also very limited on what bearings you can run. Options are Cane Creek which is total garbage and Hope, that's it. Obviously I am not a fan, but people aren't complaining like they did with PF BB's so I doubt it will change.

  20. #1420
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    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    The main benefit of a slacker SA is that it allows the rider to stretch out more while seated. I am not sure of the power implications of a slacker SA, but the 73* SA is historically based on road bike geometry. The position works for them since they spend hours on flat roads grinding and a steep climb is considered 6%. That 6% grade is average for MTB and we ride a lot of stuff that is above 15% grade. For example here is a popular climb in San Diego that averages 11%

    https://www.strava.com/segments/851667

    For the changes in the head tube design, I am not sure what is driving it. The problem with all of the new SC designs is that there are no cups at all. Instead the "cups" are molded into the carbon and the bearings sit directly on the carbon. I assume this is for weight and also to reduce cost at SC's level. Their marginal cost in the layup change is probably zero, but they reduce their full bike costs by $20-50 without the consumers expecting any reduction in MSRP. Doesn't sound like a lot, but multiply that times 5,000 frames and it starts to become real money.

    There is zero flexibility to change anything with this setup and you are also very limited on what bearings you can run. Options are Cane Creek which is total garbage and Hope, that's it. Obviously I am not a fan, but people aren't complaining like they did with PF BB's so I doubt it will change.
    White Industries has started offering integrated headsets. I know nothing about the quality, but my experience with White Industries products in the past has been good.

  21. #1421
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    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    The main benefit of a slacker SA is that it allows the rider to stretch out more while seated. I am not sure of the power implications of a slacker SA, but the 73* SA is historically based on road bike geometry. The position works for them since they spend hours on flat roads grinding and a steep climb is considered 6%. That 6% grade is average for MTB and we ride a lot of stuff that is above 15% grade. For example here is a popular climb in San Diego that averages 11%

    https://www.strava.com/segments/851667

    For the changes in the head tube design, I am not sure what is driving it. The problem with all of the new SC designs is that there are no cups at all. Instead the "cups" are molded into the carbon and the bearings sit directly on the carbon. I assume this is for weight and also to reduce cost at SC's level. Their marginal cost in the layup change is probably zero, but they reduce their full bike costs by $20-50 without the consumers expecting any reduction in MSRP. Doesn't sound like a lot, but multiply that times 5,000 frames and it starts to become real money.

    There is zero flexibility to change anything with this setup and you are also very limited on what bearings you can run. Options are Cane Creek which is total garbage and Hope, that's it. Obviously I am not a fan, but people aren't complaining like they did with PF BB's so I doubt it will change.
    Not so sure it's cost reduction as a motive. I'm sure SC has their reason even if we don't agree with it but they have never been one to do something for strictly cost savings. This is after all one of the few remaining that hasn't ditched the threaded BB which definitely costs more than a PF.

  22. #1422
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    I have a hightower lt S with a FOX Float Performance DPS. Which length/travel/eyelet should I be looking at on this volume spacer chart?2002-2018 Air Volume Reduction (FLOAT, FLOAT X, and DHX Air Rear Shocks) | Bike Help Center | FOX

    I thought it was 200/57mm but couldn't see that on the 2018 chart.

  23. #1423
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    I'm going to bet the reason that they decided to integrate the headset cups/races into the head tube has everything to do with stack height on long travel 29rs. Having a short (class leading shortness btw) heat tube allows the bike to work for a wide range of riders and allows people to size up and not get screwed by excessively large stack heights.

    It unfortunately has the opposite effect and I think the XL and XXL sizes could actually use a bit more stack height.

  24. #1424
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    Thought id share this review here since its got some good information and comparisons, and in the type of terrain and weather i regularly ride the bike!

    https://nsmb.com/articles/2018-santa-cruz-hightower-lt/

  25. #1425
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    After about a month of waiting, I finally have something to contribute to this thread.

    New bike day! "The Mistress"



    Hightower LT CC size L, 160mm Fox 36 44mm offset HSC/LSC 2 volume reducers, Fox Float X2 2 volume spacers, 150mm KS CF dropper w/ Wolftooth remote, RF Next SL cranks, Chris King headset and bb, 30-tooth Wolftooth chainring, Hope Tech 3 E 4 brakes w/ 180mm rotors, RF 50mm Turbine stem, RF Next R bar. As of right now it's set up on spare wheels, but I have Enve M730s coming with Onyx hubs.

    First ride tomorrow w/ the Shockwiz to get her dialed in.

  26. #1426
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    Congrats - it sounds awesome! I can't see the pics though...

  27. #1427
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    Does anybody know if the lyrik can be configured to have less offset?

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  28. #1428
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryknown View Post
    Congrats - it sounds awesome! I can't see the pics though...
    Weird. Tried changing privacy. It shows for me. Is it there now?

  29. #1429
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    Quote Originally Posted by TMWTP View Post
    Weird. Tried changing privacy. It shows for me. Is it there now?
    Nope, This is what I see...

    Santa Cruz Hightower LT-capture.png

  30. #1430
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    I have a XXL hightower LT and Im having trouble with a lower bottom bracket than I would like and smashing some pedals. On my previous OG XL hightower I would always run the ship in the pivot in the high setting. With the LT did this upper pivot change? Can I run the OG highower pivot on the LT to get a higher BB height? Thanks

  31. #1431
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    Quote Originally Posted by bkreyche View Post
    I have a XXL hightower LT and Im having trouble with a lower bottom bracket than I would like and smashing some pedals. On my previous OG XL hightower I would always run the ship in the pivot in the high setting. With the LT did this upper pivot change? Can I run the OG highower pivot on the LT to get a higher BB height? Thanks
    Yes and no. Yes it will fit. No the leverage and stroke are different. Your best bet is to put an offset shock busing on the bike to raise the BB or run some 2.5 tires on it.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  32. #1432
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    Anyone Else running a 2.3 Shorty up Front during the Winter months? Had it on my prevoius bike and was happy with it

  33. #1433
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    Quote Originally Posted by Theflyingdutchmen View Post
    Thought id share this review here since its got some good information and comparisons, and in the type of terrain and weather i regularly ride the bike!

    https://nsmb.com/articles/2018-santa-cruz-hightower-lt/
    I liked mine a lot more after putting in the smallest volume spacer as well. I haven't gotten around to trying the next size up yet and I'm not sure if I will. that's why I was asking about other peoples setup earlier in this thread because it seems like everyone is running no spacers and I don't understand why

  34. #1434
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    Quote Originally Posted by bkreyche View Post
    I have a XXL hightower LT and Im having trouble with a lower bottom bracket than I would like and smashing some pedals. On my previous OG XL hightower I would always run the ship in the pivot in the high setting. With the LT did this upper pivot change? Can I run the OG highower pivot on the LT to get a higher BB height? Thanks
    Not sure the linkage will fit. The LT is designed to ride like the OG in the low setting with the long shock in place. A 160 fork is your best option for raising the BB.

  35. #1435
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    Quote Originally Posted by rox View Post
    I liked mine a lot more after putting in the smallest volume spacer as well. I haven't gotten around to trying the next size up yet and I'm not sure if I will. that's why I was asking about other peoples setup earlier in this thread because it seems like everyone is running no spacers and I don't understand why
    I went with the recommended pressure under the DPX shock setup tab on the SC website

    https://www.santacruzbicycles.com/en-CA/hightower-lt

    190lbs @230psi and Im now using the 3rd largest spacer. Runs perfect!

  36. #1436
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    First ride in. Set some PR's on the dh section. But, she doesn't like short, punchy, technical obstacles very much. Seems like as soon as the rear tire gets up and you shift your weight while going for a pedal stroke, the rear tire spins, and all your momentum is gone. I'm using a shockwiz on the front, and will switch it to the rear next. But, does anyone have any advice? Coming from a SB5c that gobbled up techy stuff with ease. Also, pedal strikes in odd places.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  37. #1437
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    Ran my new shockwiz today and I'm currently on the second from smallest spacer in my DPX2. I scored an 88pct, but it did make a recommendation to go bigger on the spacer for reference. I'd bet that people who aren't running spacers are either long term users of VPP or people who enjoy a super efficient rear feel. Coming off of FSR I've been adding spacers and dropping pressure to get some small bump compliance I was missing. Current set up today to get 88pct:

    180 geared up
    197psi
    Second from small spacer
    Open compression all over
    Rebound three clicks from fast

    Results:
    33pct average sag
    88 score
    Recommended some additional spacer and slowing down low speed rebound.

  38. #1438
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    Rep to LCW for the inspiration on the SC sticker.

    Had a great ride today.

    Unfortunately, both valve cores on my reserve wheels seem to have issues. One If I unscrew and press it, no air is released, but it is holding air.

    The other I unscrewed the presta plastic cap and it pulled the whole core out...

    Needless to say I ordered a pack of 10 cores and removal tool on Amazon. Hopefully they fit the stock stems...I imagine they will.

    Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk

  39. #1439
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    Quote Originally Posted by bkreyche View Post
    I have a XXL hightower LT and Im having trouble with a lower bottom bracket than I would like and smashing some pedals. On my previous OG XL hightower I would always run the ship in the pivot in the high setting. With the LT did this upper pivot change? Can I run the OG highower pivot on the LT to get a higher BB height? Thanks
    I had pedal strikes, but added more air and that seemed to help.

    I'm on the XXL 250lbs (265 kitted) and I'm basically at 300 psi.

    I need to determine what frame only builds have spacer wise. My LBS said it doesn't have any spacers on the CC Factory shock build.

    So I might buy and put the smallest in and see if I can lower pressure.

    Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk

  40. #1440
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    Quote Originally Posted by TamiJean View Post
    Does anybody know if the lyrik can be configured to have less offset?

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    Yes, install it backwards.

  41. #1441
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    Quote Originally Posted by EricTheDood View Post
    Yes, install it backwards.
    Really? What would be the new offset? Thanks.


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  42. #1442
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    Quote Originally Posted by ear_ache View Post
    Really? What would be the new offset? Thanks.


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    'Twas a joke. Please do not do that.

    I know of no way to adjust the fork offset on a Lyrik.

  43. #1443
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    Santa Cruz Hightower LT

    Quote Originally Posted by EricTheDood View Post
    'Twas a joke. Please do not do that.

    I know of no way to adjust the fork offset on a Lyrik.
    Perfect! Thanks! You did have me going.

    After my cushcore experience I am willing to bite onto any magical thinking.


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    Last edited by ear_ache; 1 Week Ago at 02:26 PM.

  44. #1444
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    Quote Originally Posted by forealz View Post
    I had pedal strikes, but added more air and that seemed to help.

    I'm on the XXL 250lbs (265 kitted) and I'm basically at 300 psi.

    I need to determine what frame only builds have spacer wise. My LBS said it doesn't have any spacers on the CC Factory shock build.

    So I might buy and put the smallest in and see if I can lower pressure.

    Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk
    Your build should have come with two tools to remove and install the valve cores. Ask your shop for them. Regarding the core that will not let air out, remove the core and then pull the core of the core. You can do this with two pairs of plier by holding the outer gently and then unscrewing the top with the second pliers. You will feel some resistance as it re-cuts the threads while you are removing it. From there you can remove the pin and clean it out.

    This typically happens when Stans fouls the core. You can avoid this by always adding and removing air with the valve core at the bottom of the wheel. This makes is more difficult for Stans to run into the valve.

  45. #1445
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    I have a ShockWiz I would sell if anyone is interested. I used it a few times and prefer my own settings. Let me know. Comes with with original box and pcs.

  46. #1446
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    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    Your build should have come with two tools to remove and install the valve cores. Ask your shop for them. Regarding the core that will not let air out, remove the core and then pull the core of the core. You can do this with two pairs of plier by holding the outer gently and then unscrewing the top with the second pliers. You will feel some resistance as it re-cuts the threads while you are removing it. From there you can remove the pin and clean it out.

    This typically happens when Stans fouls the core. You can avoid this by always adding and removing air with the valve core at the bottom of the wheel. This makes is more difficult for Stans to run into the valve.
    Well, my bike was a custom build, so all I got was a few tokens and manual and receipt.

    No spare hanger or tools.

    Valve core removal tool came with the valve cores.

    Funny enough, I ordered the no tubes removal tool and Amazon sent me a drill bit. LOL

    Front tire just needed to be tightened. Works fine.

    Rear tire however...I removed the core and it's still holding air!!!

    Googled a bit and couldn't find any others with the same issue. I'm assuming the stan's has covered the rubber part of the valve stem.

    I shoved a thin Allen wrench in and let out all the air and then replaced the valve core and pumped up and it holds air fine. Just can't let any out without removing the core and using the Allen wrench.

    This must be the joys of tubeless I've read about...

    Edit: A few more tries of doing that and pushing with the Allen and then refilling with a compressor fixed it. Works again. Woot! Let's see if stan's fills it again though lol.

    I'm storing the bike with valves at the bottom now.

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  47. #1447
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    Got a 2nd ride in. Incredible beast of a machine. Monster-trucked through a very chunky trail (Dakota Ridge/Morrison Slide, Morrison CO), and climbed some spots I've never been able to clear before. The 160mm fox 36 with 44mm offset is working well for me on a L (6'1"). Climbing feels good, switch backs aren't a problem. Initially I was thinking the wheelbase would make it ungainly in the tight stuff.

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  48. #1448
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    Quote Originally Posted by forealz View Post
    Well, my bike was a custom build, so all I got was a few tokens and manual and receipt.

    No spare hanger or tools.

    Valve core removal tool came with the valve cores.

    Funny enough, I ordered the no tubes removal tool and Amazon sent me a drill bit. LOL

    Front tire just needed to be tightened. Works fine.

    Rear tire however...I removed the core and it's still holding air!!!

    Googled a bit and couldn't find any others with the same issue. I'm assuming the stan's has covered the rubber part of the valve stem.

    I shoved a thin Allen wrench in and let out all the air and then replaced the valve core and pumped up and it holds air fine. Just can't let any out without removing the core and using the Allen wrench.

    This must be the joys of tubeless I've read about...

    Edit: A few more tries of doing that and pushing with the Allen and then refilling with a compressor fixed it. Works again. Woot! Let's see if stan's fills it again though lol.

    I'm storing the bike with valves at the bottom now.

    Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk
    Don't worry about how you store it, it is only when you are letting air out of the valves that it matters. Just clean it out next time you change a tire.

  49. #1449
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    Quote Originally Posted by TMWTP View Post
    Got a 2nd ride in. Incredible beast of a machine. Monster-trucked through a very chunky trail (Dakota Ridge/Morrison Slide, Morrison CO), and climbed some spots I've never been able to clear before. The 160mm fox 36 with 44mm offset is working well for me on a L (6'1"). Climbing feels good, switch backs aren't a problem. Initially I was thinking the wheelbase would make it ungainly in the tight stuff.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    I have been wanting to experiment with the 44 offset fork. First up is an XL frame for me though which arrives tomorrow! Going from a L to an XL at 5'10". With my setup it will give me just under a 460 Reach. I will be dropping from a 50 mm stem to a 40 mm as part of this. Other than that everything else works. Bar height will remain the same and I have 70 mm of post showing below the collar of my 150 dropper so all good there. Pretty excited right now

  50. #1450
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    Quote Originally Posted by TMWTP View Post
    After about a month of waiting, I finally have something to contribute to this thread.

    New bike day! "The Mistress"



    Hightower LT CC size L, 160mm Fox 36 44mm offset HSC/LSC 2 volume reducers, Fox Float X2 2 volume spacers, 150mm KS CF dropper w/ Wolftooth remote, RF Next SL cranks, Chris King headset and bb, 30-tooth Wolftooth chainring, Hope Tech 3 E 4 brakes w/ 180mm rotors, RF 50mm Turbine stem, RF Next R bar. As of right now it's set up on spare wheels, but I have Enve M730s coming with Onyx hubs.

    First ride tomorrow w/ the Shockwiz to get her dialed in.
    Please send link to chris king headset.
    10 TransAM SS
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  51. #1451
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lowball View Post
    Please send link to chris king headset.
    My mistake, it is a Cane Creek.

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  52. #1452
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    Just an FYI, I am successfully running the Aggressor 2.5 WT on the rear of the bike. The measurements after one ride (havent measured in over three rides) were nearly identical to the 2.4 WT DHR2. The aggressor is amazing thus far. Definitely faster, corners beastly. Feels like it gave up some climbing prowess and weight seems slightly high on them.
    Santa Cruz HTLT

  53. #1453
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuch View Post
    Just an FYI, I am successfully running the Aggressor 2.5 WT on the rear of the bike. The measurements after one ride (havent measured in over three rides) were nearly identical to the 2.4 WT DHR2. The aggressor is amazing thus far. Definitely faster, corners beastly. Feels like it gave up some climbing prowess and weight seems slightly high on them.
    For what it's worth to those who care, I installed Maxxis Rekon 2.8/ 40mm int wheels on the rear when the bike arrived and seemed to have plenty of clearance. BB would be a little low, but that's the trend these days.

  54. #1454
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    Just pulled the trigger on an HTLT. Thinking I should probably put some sort of frame saver tape on it. Any precut types you have used? - Thanks

  55. #1455
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    Quote Originally Posted by TMWTP View Post
    My mistake, it is a Cane Creek.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    Dang it 🙁
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  56. #1456
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geoffkoop View Post
    Just pulled the trigger on an HTLT. Thinking I should probably put some sort of frame saver tape on it. Any precut types you have used? - Thanks
    Just got the invisiframe product... looks pretty good. From the videos on line it will take 3 - 4 hrs to install.
    Last edited by Lowball; 1 Week Ago at 04:52 PM.
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  57. #1457
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    Quote Originally Posted by SX450 View Post
    For what it's worth to those who care, I installed Maxxis Rekon 2.8/ 40mm int wheels on the rear when the bike arrived and seemed to have plenty of clearance. BB would be a little low, but that's the trend these days.
    So, you mean a 27.5 plus tire fits in the rear triangle of the LT!?

  58. #1458
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lowball View Post
    Just got the invisiframe product... looks pretty good. From the videos on line it will take 3 - 4 hrs to install.
    I used Invisiframe on my OGHT, I did it over two nights, 2 hours each night.

  59. #1459
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    Quote Originally Posted by JC822 View Post
    So, you mean a 27.5 plus tire fits in the rear triangle of the LT!?
    Yes

  60. #1460
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    Quote Originally Posted by dare_007 View Post
    I used Invisiframe on my OGHT, I did it over two nights, 2 hours each night.
    I'm with you. All in one sitting is a bit too much! The product is legit tho. Only issue I've had in two sets I've installed was the overlap at the top tube in front of the seat tube decal. Not sure why both did the same, but it wasn't too bad. Both of mine were on L frames. Love the product overall.

  61. #1461
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    Mountain Style protection is on order for downtube - black. I use 3M bra tape, order the 4 inch roll from Amazon, as needed on other parts. This set up has worked pretty well on my last few bikes. With a straight edge, hobby knife and a good pair of scissors, I can pretty much crush it.
    Santa Cruz HTLT

  62. #1462
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    My invisi frame finish was ok on the Hightower LT... the Seat Stau has a sparing for the wheel where it makes a curve. This wasnt properly adressed on the foil cut, this is where i got some bad looking knits

  63. #1463
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lowball View Post
    Just got the invisiframe product... looks pretty good. From the videos on line it will take 3 - 4 hrs to install.
    Great. Where did you order this from?

  64. #1464
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    Anyone running lighter weight tires on their HTLT? The Minion DHRs are super grippy and stable, they are pretty heavy. Any recommendations? Thanks!

  65. #1465
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geoffkoop View Post
    Great. Where did you order this from?
    Invisiframe.co.uk I believe
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  66. #1466
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    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    I have been wanting to experiment with the 44 offset fork. First up is an XL frame for me though which arrives tomorrow! Going from a L to an XL at 5'10". With my setup it will give me just under a 460 Reach. I will be dropping from a 50 mm stem to a 40 mm as part of this. Other than that everything else works. Bar height will remain the same and I have 70 mm of post showing below the collar of my 150 dropper so all good there. Pretty excited right now
    SP- on reach...why is more reach better and why would you go XL at height under 6-0? Being 6 I know Im in the middle of L and XL but coming off a large Nomad3 Im already increasing my reach...and based on two stock large HTLT demo days this seems to be a solid fit for me. Im just going 160 and a 40mm with riser bars. Just wondering your thought process.
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  67. #1467
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lowball View Post
    SP- on reach...why is more reach better and why would you go XL at height under 6-0? Being 6 I know Im in the middle of L and XL but coming off a large Nomad3 Im already increasing my reach...and based on two stock large HTLT demo days this seems to be a solid fit for me. Im just going 160 and a 40mm with riser bars. Just wondering your thought process.
    I can't answer for SP, but I demo'd the L on 3 trails, and test-fit the XL. For me, the L fit better. Torso length might have something to do with it, also type of trails. I was concerned that the longer length of the XL would have an adverse affect on tight switchbacks. For reference, I'm 6'1", 32" inseam and the bike is a L w/ 160mm fork and 44mm offset, running a 50mm stem. Front range Colorado riding means lots of ups to earn your downs.

    One of my riding buddies is 6'2", and isn't even considering a L.

  68. #1468
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    Quote Originally Posted by TMWTP View Post
    I can't answer for SP, but I demo'd the L on 3 trails, and test-fit the XL. For me, the L fit better. Torso length might have something to do with it, also type of trails. I was concerned that the longer length of the XL would have an adverse affect on tight switchbacks. For reference, I'm 6'1", 32" inseam and the bike is a L w/ 160mm fork and 44mm offset, running a 50mm stem. Front range Colorado riding means lots of ups to earn your downs.

    One of my riding buddies is 6'2", and isn't even considering a L.
    Hows the 44mm offset working out so far? And thanks for the feedback too👍🏽
    10 TransAM SS
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  69. #1469
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lowball View Post
    SP- on reach...why is more reach better and why would you go XL at height under 6-0? Being 6 I know Im in the middle of L and XL but coming off a large Nomad3 Im already increasing my reach...and based on two stock large HTLT demo days this seems to be a solid fit for me. Im just going 160 and a 40mm with riser bars. Just wondering your thought process.
    This is an experiment for me and not recommended for anyone else. I have owned a 2017 Specialized Enduro 29 with a 450 reach and a OGHT together I know I like the longer reach. With my mods on the bike I should end up with a reach around 460 on the XL/LT. I have never found a longer bike more difficult to get around a tight switchback even in the tightest situations. A lot of what I ride is steep and fast, but even in slow situations I like the feel of being in the bike and not on it. That comes from the longer reach among other things.

    My XL is built and I have pedaled it around the driveway. It feels really good and I did not get the sensation of hanging over the front wheel like I did with the L LT. With my setup the reach on the L was probably around 435 so slightly smaller than the L N3.
    Last edited by Salespunk; 6 Days Ago at 11:31 AM.

  70. #1470
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    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    My XL is built and I have pedaled it around the driveway.
    Pictures?


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  71. #1471
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    Quote Originally Posted by ear_ache View Post
    Pictures?


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    Here you go, still have 50 mm of post showing below the collar. Have to mount a 40 mm stem up when i get back home.

    20180115_125103 by Sales Punk, on Flickr

    20180115_204739 by Sales Punk, on Flickr

    Reach should be 460 which is identical to a L N4 so the sizing is not crazy off the charts. Only downfall to this setup is the slightly slack SA at 72.7*. Not terrible so I have just pushed my seat all the way forward.

  72. #1472
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    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    Here you go, still have 50 mm of post showing below the collar. Have to mount a 40 mm stem up when i get back home.

    20180115_125103 by Sales Punk, on Flickr

    20180115_204739 by Sales Punk, on Flickr

    Reach should be 460 which is identical to a L N4 so the sizing is not crazy off the charts. Only downfall to this setup is the slightly slack SA at 72.7*. Not terrible so I have just pushed my seat all the way forward.
    Very nice!


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    I'm 5'9-5'10 with a 31ish inseam. I just ordered a large HTLT a few days ago. Should I keep the 150mm dropper or swap for a 170mm? Thanks!

  74. #1474
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geoffkoop View Post
    I'm 5'9-5'10 with a 31ish inseam. I just ordered a large HTLT a few days ago. Should I keep the 150mm dropper or swap for a 170mm? Thanks!
    If you keep the 175mm cranks you should be close to slammed I think.

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  75. #1475
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    Quote Originally Posted by TamiJean View Post
    If you keep the 175mm cranks you should be close to slammed I think.

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    Hmmm, yea I plan to keep the 175mm crank so may be better to keep 150mm.

  76. #1476
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geoffkoop View Post
    Hmmm, yea I plan to keep the 175mm crank so may be better to keep 150mm.
    Set it up and try it. I have a 32inch inseam and 170mm cranks on an XL and it's slammed and pretty much spot on for me

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  77. #1477
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geoffkoop View Post
    I'm 5'9-5'10 with a 31ish inseam. I just ordered a large HTLT a few days ago. Should I keep the 150mm dropper or swap for a 170mm? Thanks!
    I have a 150 with lots of post showing. It's low enough for me, but, if I could sell my 150 carbon KS for the 175, I'd probably do it. IIRC, at the time I ordered everything, there either wasn't a 175, or there was concern it wouldn't fit.

  78. #1478
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lowball View Post
    Hows the 44mm offset working out so far? And thanks for the feedback too👍🏽
    So far, so good. I don't really have much to compare it to since the demo I rode was a 150mm travel fork. It feels similar though. Plus, the shockwiz has me pulling more pressure out, so it appears to be sitting further in the travel at sag. Meaning, it's probably going to end up effectivly closer to a 150mm travel if I stick with the current tuning mode.

  79. #1479
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geoffkoop View Post
    I'm 5'9-5'10 with a 31ish inseam. I just ordered a large HTLT a few days ago. Should I keep the 150mm dropper or swap for a 170mm? Thanks!
    I went with the Crank Brothers Highline 160mm dropper. It was the sweet spot for me and I'm 6'5 with 32" inseam

  80. #1480
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geoffkoop View Post
    I'm 5'9-5'10 with a 31ish inseam. I just ordered a large HTLT a few days ago. Should I keep the 150mm dropper or swap for a 170mm? Thanks!
    Totally dependent on your seat position. I am the same measurements, yet I had 70 mm of post below the collar with my L HTLT and a 150 reverb. I could have run as much as a 200 mm dropper post on mine.

  81. #1481
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    Has anyone else noticed that HOPE Floating Discs are touching the frame when installed? They pointed this out in a german forum but mine fits, it's REALLY close but there is no rubbing... others have them actually touch the frame...

  82. #1482
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    I think this has been discussed. I'm running hope calipers, but Shimano rotors. Clearance is good.

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  83. #1483
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    Quote Originally Posted by freyrida View Post
    My invisi frame finish was ok on the Hightower LT... the Seat Stau has a sparing for the wheel where it makes a curve. This wasnt properly adressed on the foil cut, this is where i got some bad looking knits
    The Invisiframe kit definitely fits the Large HTLT perfectly. I did get it fitted by an approved installer as life's too short and the cost wasn't much additionally.

    I've got the SRAM rotors and i've checked and even after riding some very rough terrain I'm personally not getting any rub. I am putting a bigger front disc on 180-200 as the Guide Ultimate's are a bit weak IMO.

    I definitely need some spacers in the DPX2 as i'm blowing through the travel a bit too easily.

  84. #1484
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    Quote Originally Posted by Napalm100 View Post
    There aren't enough pictures on this thread.

    Here is a Hightower LT we recently build up as a Custom build for a customer, size XL, CC frame.

    Enjoy

    Attachment 1162363
    Attachment 1162364
    Attachment 1162365


    What did you use to keep the Hope Rotor from rubbing the frame on the rear? I am trying to put 203mm Hope rotors on my HT LT and having issues. Thanks!

  85. #1485
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    Quote Originally Posted by ear_ache View Post
    Thank you Salespunk, digital soul, and rondre!

    It is definitely a watch one, do one, teach one. There is also some self medicating with beer.

    Tire is on backwards, I'll get the courage to fix it after I get through the front tire.





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    I just reinstalled the rear tire with cushcore.... Backwards.... Again....


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  86. #1486
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    It is done. Again. I'm getting the hang of this cushcore thing




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  87. #1487
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    Quote Originally Posted by ear_ache View Post
    It is done. Again. I'm getting the hang of this cushcore thing




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    Definitely gets easier with time. I am down to about 7 minutes for a full tire change now.

  88. #1488
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    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    Definitely gets easier with time. I am down to about 7 minutes for a full tire change now.
    Do you actually notice that much of a difference that makes it worth all that trouble?

  89. #1489
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    Quote Originally Posted by M320 View Post
    Do you actually notice that much of a difference that makes it worth all that trouble?
    Absolutely, I won't ride without them. Tires are more stable, better damped and instead of flats every 100 miles I am going about 350.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  90. #1490
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    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    Absolutely, I won't ride without them. Tires are more stable, better damped and instead of flats every 100 miles I am going about 350.

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    Thanks for the info. I may have to give them a try on my new Hardtail build.

  91. #1491
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    Quote Originally Posted by ear_ache View Post
    It is done. Again. I'm getting the hang of this cushcore thing




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    I see 2.4 in the back. What width are you running in the front? Still trying to decide which tire widths to buy. Salespunk, you had told me via Instagram that you run 2.3 front and rear. How do you like the minion SS out back and any reason why you aren't running wider tires? I'd guess weight..

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  92. #1492
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    Quote Originally Posted by smf805 View Post
    I see 2.4 in the back. What width are you running in the front? Still trying to decide which tire widths to buy. Salespunk, you had told me via Instagram that you run 2.3 front and rear. How do you like the minion SS out back and any reason why you aren't running wider tires? I'd guess weight..

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    I'm running a highroller II wt 2.5

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  93. #1493
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    Quote Originally Posted by smf805 View Post
    I see 2.4 in the back. What width are you running in the front? Still trying to decide which tire widths to buy. Salespunk, you had told me via Instagram that you run 2.3 front and rear. How do you like the minion SS out back and any reason why you aren't running wider tires? I'd guess weight..

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
    I don't like the DHF or DHR up front and the HR2 WT just came out recently. I will try one soon. I did try the DHR WT and it was OK, but I am very particular about my tire/pressure setup.

  94. #1494
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    Quote Originally Posted by ear_ache View Post
    I'm running a highroller II wt 2.5

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    Please update this thread with your HR II wt 2.5 opinions after you get some rides in. I'm gonna try Salespunk's combo for now.

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  95. #1495
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    Quote Originally Posted by smf805 View Post
    Please update this thread with your HR II wt 2.5 opinions after you get some rides in. I'm gonna try Salespunk's combo for now.

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

  96. #1496
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    So my XL experiment has started. Two rides completed now, first one was a disaster, second one much improved. First ride I just plain screwed up, thought the seat tube was only 20 mm longer, but it was 40 mm. My seat height was jacked and I had to stop 8 times to adjust it. I also didn't wait to get the right length stem and was running the 50 mm that I had on my large which sucked. I was almost ready to call it and order a large again, one and done.

    For today's ride I got the stem length dialed with a 35 mm and adjusted my seat height before I left. It usually takes me about 30 days to adapt to a new setup, but I don't think this will take that long. Bike is definitely more stable and it feels much more like I am in the bike instead of on top of it. As I adapted more to it I began to realize how much I rode the back wheel of the size large. I always had the feeling like I was hanging over the front wheel a little and had to focus on pushing my self back a little.

    To be clear the size L HTLT was the fastest bike I have ever ridden. I set a lot of top 10's and PR's on it so I seem to be chasing a rainbow with this change. By the end of the ride it was feeling really good. It felt more balanced on the steep descents and it allowed me to keep my upper body way more relaxed. Looking forward to the next few weeks as I get more and more used to it. By the numbers it is 65.5 HA, 72.8 SA, 460 Reach. Pics of the new setup

    20180121_165118 by Sales Punk, on Flickr

    20180121_151051 by Sales Punk, on Flickr

  97. #1497
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    It's hard for me to even accept that people are still riding the HR2 in any capacity. That is the most drifty tire ever to me, and I refuse to ride one on the front. Shows how different our preferences really are! Ive had a few rides now on the WT aggressor on the back and it rolls amazingly well, but if you stand up to climb it's definitely giving bit up to the DHR2. Cornering is fantastic. I'm gonna keep pushing it but I still am. It sold on the "larger" is better mentality for the pedaling I do. Got on a bike with DHF/DHR2 2.3's the other day and felt like I was soooo much faster rolling. Anyway....back to the LT. Lol

  98. #1498
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    Salespunk, are running a 170mm Fork , or still at 160?

  99. #1499
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bradical View Post
    Salespunk, are running a 170mm Fork , or still at 160?
    Still at 160, don't think I need 170 at this point

  100. #1500
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuch View Post
    It's hard for me to even accept that people are still riding the HR2 in any capacity. That is the most drifty tire ever to me, and I refuse to ride one on the front. Shows how different our preferences really are! Ive had a few rides now on the WT aggressor on the back and it rolls amazingly well, but if you stand up to climb it's definitely giving bit up to the DHR2. Cornering is fantastic. I'm gonna keep pushing it but I still am. It sold on the "larger" is better mentality for the pedaling I do. Got on a bike with DHF/DHR2 2.3's the other day and felt like I was soooo much faster rolling. Anyway....back to the LT. Lol
    Always interesting how different preferences are. With the HR2 I feel like I can set an edge hard on it where the DHF feels less precise to me. I think a lot of it has to do with lean angles and terrain. 99% of my riding is loose over hard with a lot of rock. Think sand on polished concrete with a bunch of ball bearings on top.

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