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  1. #1
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    Santa Cruz carbon dropouts

    Has anyone had their swingarm replaced because of damaged carbon dropouts?
    Specifically that the hub axle has crushed or gouged the carbon dropout enough to effect alignment or frame integrity

  2. #2
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    I haven't heard of that happening. I have a Nomad C and so does my buddy and no issues here. I haven't seen anything on the forums either. Do you have that issue?
    Narrow is the path to life, few are those who find it.

  3. #3
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    A friend of mine had the swingarm (qr 135mm) replaced twice. And the swingarm of my Nomad C is looking bad as well after less than two years. So I'll get it replaced as soon as I have alignment issues.

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    It seems plausible, though I imagine it would have to be related to overtightening the QR.

    Switch to a 10x135mm Thru-bolt, torque to spec and problem solved (or at least prevented). Hadley makes a great option.
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

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    Quote Originally Posted by 007 View Post
    It seems plausible, though I imagine it would have to be related to overtightening the QR.

    Switch to a 10x135mm Thru-bolt, torque to spec and problem solved (or at least prevented). Hadley makes a great option.
    What's the torque spec? I have a 10x135 thru-axle (DT Swiss RWS) on both my TBc and TRc, and I tighten them very tight. I figured the tighter it was, the stiffer it would be. I haven't noticed any damage, but now I'm wondering if I'm overtightening them.

  6. #6
    007
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    On the Hadley, its 21-23nm I think, or its 20-22. Either way, its a 2nm range and I know with certainty that I wrench mine down at 185 in/lbs. Which is 21nm. Its an incredibly convenient part that made an immediately noticeable difference in the lateral stiffness of the rear triangle (we're talking AL frame here, BTW).
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by 007 View Post
    On the Hadley, its 21-23nm I think, or its 20-22. Either way, its a 2nm range and I know with certainty that I wrench mine down at 185 in/lbs. Which is 21nm. Its an incredibly convenient part that made an immediately noticeable difference in the lateral stiffness of the rear triangle (we're talking AL frame here, BTW).

    ^^^This. Sure, it's not as stiff as a thru-axle setup, but it's noticably stiffer than any standard QR I've ever tried. Running it on three bikes. Works great! Looks nice and sano, is fairly light, and leaves nothing sticking way out to get caught on anything.
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

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    007
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    Quote Originally Posted by scrublover View Post
    ^^^This. Sure, it's not as stiff as a thru-axle setup, but it's noticably stiffer than any standard QR I've ever tried. Running it on three bikes. Works great! Looks nice and sano, is fairly light, and leaves nothing sticking way out to get caught on anything.
    Just gotta remember to bring a 6mm allen with you on the trails . . .
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 007 View Post
    Just gotta remember to bring a 6mm allen with you on the trails . . .
    I make sure any multi-tool I buy has one!
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  10. #10
    007
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    Quote Originally Posted by scrublover View Post
    I make sure any multi-tool I buy has one!
    I do too, but man, some of the Allen's on these multi tools are CRAP. It's hard to break 21nm of torque with some of these little dinky multi-tools. I just keep one standard allen in the bag for this purpose.
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  11. #11
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    I just noticed my drive side dropout is gouged on my NomadC. I sent a pic to SC and was told it's not a warranty issue and new swing arms cost 400.00. I asked if it's something I need worry about and haven't received a response yet. An obvious fix is to design the dropout so there's a metal on metal interface. I believe the newer 142x12 Nomad dropouts have this. Someone please chime in if that's not the case.

    I'm torn between keeping my swing arm and seeing what happens, buying a new carbon 142x12 if SC will allow me to at the 400 price, or go metal. I love carbon but hate how sensitive it can be to clamp forces and abrasion.

  12. #12
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    My Aluminum frame has permanent marks from the QR (when I used one) and the Hub . . . I don't think that metal on metal will prevent that, and moreover, I don't think its a problem. Ride it until it breaks, unless you want an excuse for the wider dropouts.
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

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    Quote Originally Posted by 007 View Post
    My Aluminum frame has permanent marks from the QR (when I used one) and the Hub . . . I don't think that metal on metal will prevent that, and moreover, I don't think its a problem. Ride it until it breaks, unless you want an excuse for the wider dropouts.

    Before my nomadC I had a Nomad and also had little marks from the hub but they were very different than what has happened to the nomadC. The difference is on carbon I'm not just getting little harmless marks, it's gouged to the point where the hub sits in the gouge it's carved out deep enough to cause minor alignment issues. I think we all know one of carbon's weakness is cutting into the layers can compromise structural integrity too. My frame is scratched to the carbon in multiple places and I'm not worried one bit, but cuts into the carbon layering does worry me.

  14. #14
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    Good timing with this thread popping up. Just yesterday I noticed my DT RWS thru-bolt has carved a groove through the carbon layers on the outside of my Blur LTc's disc side dropout. At this stage the alignment is fine (as the gouge is on the outside of the dropout), and I have confidence in the integrity of the dropout as there's still plenty of carbon there. I am however questioning whether a RWS thru-bolt was a good idea in the first place. I intend to keep on riding the LTc for many years to come, so this is an issue I will be keeping an eye on. If the dropout does ever crap-out, then a 142x12 setup will be the go, as my Hope hubs can switch over easily enough.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by slimat99 View Post
    Before my nomadC I had a Nomad and also had little marks from the hub but they were very different than what has happened to the nomadC. The difference is on carbon I'm not just getting little harmless marks, it's gouged to the point where the hub sits in the gouge it's carved out deep enough to cause minor alignment issues. I think we all know one of carbon's weakness is cutting into the layers can compromise structural integrity too. My frame is scratched to the carbon in multiple places and I'm not worried one bit, but cuts into the carbon layering does worry me.
    My Nomad is starting to show the same wear where my 12x135mm step down axle is starting to gouge the left dropout. Thanks for sharing that its not a warranty issue. I think I would just change to the 12x142mm rather than have the issue again. Got any pictures of yours?
    Narrow is the path to life, few are those who find it.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by wilsonblur View Post
    My Nomad is starting to show the same wear where my 12x135mm step down axle is starting to gouge the left dropout. Thanks for sharing that its not a warranty issue. I think I would just change to the 12x142mm rather than have the issue again. Got any pictures of yours?

    Bummer. I would still see if you can get yours warrantied if it becomes a major issue. It's always worth a try. I tried to upload a pic but it's too big. I'm too lazy to edit. If you want a pic PM an email address and I'll send you one.

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