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  1. #1
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    New question here. Nonstock Shocks on the Tallboy LT(c)

    Given questions I've had and the difficulty in finding this information consolidated anywhere, I wanted to make a thread for those who have tried a shock other than the RP23/Float on their Tallboy LTs. My Push tuned Float CTD is significantly better than it was out of the box, but I'm still looking for more. Considering the CCDBA and the Monarch Plus. Some recent subpar reviews of the CCDBA and the lack of tuning options on the Monarch Plus have slowed me down. If you have any input, it would be good also to get your riding weight and your suspension settings.

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    Oh, one more thing. I have a 2.25" stroke X-Fusion HLR coil. It's too heavy for the benefit vs the Monarch Plus.
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    You mentioned that you can only buy M/M tunes on the Monarch Plus now. Do you think this will be a problem with the TB LTc?

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    Don't hang me for cross threading!!! I just asked this question on the owners tread and then noticed this new tread. Over on the TBLTc owners thread the question has been brought up about shock stroke limiting suspention travel

    So since fox shocks are on every (a mild exaduration) FS bike, how are they doing on yetis, ibis, spec, etc.? Are the shocks limiting the suspention on all of them?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by hillharman View Post
    You mentioned that you can only buy M/M tunes on the Monarch Plus now. Do you think this will be a problem with the TB LTc?
    Nah. The M/M tune is good to go for the TBLTc. That's what mine is and no tweaking needed, except for the air can volume. But, the MY14 seems to be coming w/ either regular or LV cans anyhoo...

    I've been swapping msgs w/ a guy named Dave and his tuning effort to open up a MY14 for the Blur LTc. He's the one that told me he could only get a M/M in MY14 RC3+... There's been some other postings that say the MY14 M/M Monarchs are a lot more open than the older ones. So, I'd go for it! It could be just a plug/play thing, no work necessary. But where ever you get it from, if you have an option to go LV, then pick that option.
    Oh, but look into the RWC needle bearings for the link end. You'll really like how the bike feels w/ it. One last thing, check to see if the bearings of your TB is smooth. I pulled the rear shock and rear wheel off, flip the bike upside down, and checked that way...just tight enough to take out play, but not tight enough to induce binding. Then, I used anti-seize and Loctite to secure everything and keep the creaking down.
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    Quote Originally Posted by dustman View Post
    Don't hang me for cross threading!!! I just asked this question on the owners tread and then noticed this new tread. Over on the TBLTc owners thread the question has been brought up about shock stroke limiting suspention travel

    So since fox shocks are on every (a mild exaduration) FS bike, how are they doing on yetis, ibis, spec, etc.? Are the shocks limiting the suspention on all of them?
    I posted this in the other thread, but my Fox Float CTD (2013) was totally fine with respect to getting full stroke. I haven't measured the travel at the wheel yet, but I'm going to eventually.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Nah. The M/M tune is good to go for the TBLTc. That's what mine is and no tweaking needed, except for the air can volume. But, the MY14 seems to be coming w/ either regular or LV cans anyhoo...

    I've been swapping msgs w/ a guy named Dave and his tuning effort to open up a MY14 for the Blur LTc. He's the one that told me he could only get a M/M in MY14 RC3+... There's been some other postings that say the MY14 M/M Monarchs are a lot more open than the older ones. So, I'd go for it! It could be just a plug/play thing, no work necessary. But where ever you get it from, if you have an option to go LV, then pick that option.
    Oh, but look into the RWC needle bearings for the link end. You'll really like how the bike feels w/ it. One last thing, check to see if the bearings of your TB is smooth. I pulled the rear shock and rear wheel off, flip the bike upside down, and checked that way...just tight enough to take out play, but not tight enough to induce binding. Then, I used anti-seize and Loctite to secure everything and keep the creaking down.
    This is good info. I'm already running the RWC bearing on my Float CTD, and I check the bearings pretty frequently. I've found they can get gritty, even just between the link and the frame, and substantially degrade the low speed performance of the suspension. So I pull the shock and make sure they are moving freely and then snug up the pivot axles and clean as necessary.

    If I can find a 2014 Monarch Plus for a decent price, I may pull the trigger. I wish they were black anodizing the shaft though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hillharman View Post
    If I can find a 2014 Monarch Plus for a decent price, I may pull the trigger. I wish they were black anodizing the shaft though.
    Meh...they yellow looks good against the school-bus yellow LTcs...or do you have the black/orange one?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Meh...they yellow looks good against the school-bus yellow LTcs...or do you have the black/orange one?
    I've got the yeller one. I just want it to match my Pike is all

    Which has me thinking... could you limit a Vivid Air 200x57 to a 50mm stroke?

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    Quote Originally Posted by hillharman View Post
    I've got the yeller one. I just want it to match my Pike is all

    Which has me thinking... could you limit a Vivid Air 200x57 to a 50mm stroke?
    Just go dig up "limiting travel" in the 650b forum. It's unbelievably easy! I had to limit my Monarch as it's a 2.25" stroke one. A quick visit to Home Depot and about $2 later...
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  11. #11
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    Reviving this thread as I recently picked-up a LTc, and would like better rear shock performance. I have the standard non-kashima, non-boost valve version of the Fox Float CTD rear shock; "evolution," I believe is what they call it. I rode several demo bikes and thought the rear suspension action was fine and climb mode was very firm. On my bike, it seems like the air pressure required to perform satisfactorily in climb mode makes the trail and descend mode underwhelming.

    I'm an Ex-XC hack so maybe I'm putting too much emphasis on climb mode, but the demo Tallboy LTc bikes I rode all "locked-out" well and still maintained good all around performance. Has anyone changed from the standard Fox Float CTD to the Kashima, Boost Valve version and noticed a marked improvement in performance? It would be an expensive change on a new bike, but I want a rear shock that this bike deserves. Also thinking about a Float X CTD, but that might be more than I need. I'm willing to consider sending my shock to Push, but if it's flawed, I don't want to blow $170 or whatever it costs and then still need to buy another shock. Any suggestions welcomed.

  12. #12
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    If firmer climbing mode is what you are after, then get it PUSH'd. In fact, you can have them make it climb better and feel better descending. I recently had them tune an RP23 for my TRc. I asked them to (1) add LSC in the propedal on mode to make it climb better; (2) stop it from blowing through the mid part of travel; (3) give it a more plush feel on fast rough descents; and (4) speed up the HSR a bit. They were able to do exactly what I asked them, and the shock feels incredible now.

  13. #13
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    That's great news. I didn't know if it would make sense to do with the basic shock, but based on your observations it sounds like getting the shocked "Pushed" may be the ticket. Appreciate the feedback.

  14. #14
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    GMM,

    I contacted Push about having a shock off another bike tuned and they told me that they cannot tune the Fox Float CTD shock unless it has the Boost Valve feature. They can still do the maintenance on a non-Boost Valve shock.

    This was the dilemma I faced with my StumpJumper that came with a standard Fox shock. Buy a new proprietary shock from Specialized with Boost Valve and then send it to Push (which would cost the same or more than the DB Air CS I just put on my Bronson) or sell the bike. I'm leaning towards the latter.
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  15. #15
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    Hmm, that's not great news. I guess I'm not completely surprised though. Maybe I'll play around with the current shock for a couple of months and then buy one with a Boost-Valve if I don't see improvement fiddling around with rebound and air pressure. It's not horrible, but I know there are better options. I need to stop staring at that Float X too.

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    Lol yeah all this Pike talk everywhere and looking at the DB Air and 2014 Monarch Plus RC3 got me in all kinds of trouble.

    I had the Fox stuff on the Bronson riding pretty good I thought. Then I bought a Pike. And that felt great, it lives up to the hype, but also made the rear feel comparably bad. And thats how I ended up with the DB Air CS. I'm still tuning it and probably have a long way to go, but so far its outperforming the Fox.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SManZ View Post
    Lol yeah all this Pike talk everywhere and looking at the DB Air and 2014 Monarch Plus RC3 got me in all kinds of trouble.

    I had the Fox stuff on the Bronson riding pretty good I thought. Then I bought a Pike. And that felt great, it lives up to the hype, but also made the rear feel comparably bad. And thats how I ended up with the DB Air CS. I'm still tuning it and probably have a long way to go, but so far its outperforming the Fox.
    Same here on my TBLT. Pike RCT3 150 Solo Air and DBAir CS except I just replaced both the front and rear at the same time. I'm really liking the DBAir. I realize some people have had bad reviews on it but I noticed it improved the bike's performance with very little tinkering. I used the Intense Carbine 29er base tune off of the CC site. Stll tuning the Pike had 2 pucks in and now trying out 1 puck with a little higher pressure. Pike is a nice fork but if I had to pick the Pike or DBAir I'd probably take the DBAir.

  18. #18
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    I just got off a multi day test run of the CCDBA-CS on my TBLTc with a Pike 150mm up front. I previously had a Float CTD tuned by Push. The Push treatment is great, and I'd consider it more or less mandatory, at least at my weight. That said, the CCDBA-CS was amazing, and for the first time, I felt like the Pike was no longer the best part of the suspension. I'll definitely be buying one. The performance of the rear end with the CCDBA is a totally different world than even with a Pushed Float CTD. You can run significantly more sag without any wallowing, and the overall compliance of the shock is massively improved. The climb switch is also very cool. It's the first time I've ever felt like the levers on a rear shock were useful. The one caveat is that it is nothing at all like a lockout. I think locking out a good dual short link suspension is pointless, though, so I'm happy.

  19. #19
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    General consensus on TBLTc is Pike 150 with 51mm off right? Vs straight?

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    Quote Originally Posted by dustman View Post
    General consensus on TBLTc is Pike 150 with 51mm off right? Vs straight?
    Yep 51mm offset.

  21. #21
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    So no one on a Float X? Or is Fox so out favor that everyone is running to Cane Creek and Rockshox? I guess I can see why with the reported performance increases going to the CCDB or Monarch.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by dustman View Post
    General consensus on TBLTc is Pike 150 with 51mm off right? Vs straight?
    Mine is a 150/46...seems to work fine too.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Mine is a 150/46...seems to work fine too.
    I actually re read all of your post because I knew you had a pike. I bought mine from artscyclery.com and they only had the 51mm. I saw your post about 46 being good for fast downhill vs the 51. I couldn't miss the black friday/cyber monday deals they had!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by GMM View Post
    So no one on a Float X? Or is Fox so out favor that everyone is running to Cane Creek and Rockshox? I guess I can see why with the reported performance increases going to the CCDB or Monarch.
    It seems like mums the word on float x... I haven't seen one post pro or con on it either. I have only looked in tallboy lt forums though.

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    What size CC DBAir CS is everyone running on their LTc. I'm debating where I should send the stock CTD shock to Push or bite the bullet and get the CC DBair CS. Also need to decide if I am going to get a new Pike or send my Fox CTD float to Push as well.

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