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  1. #1
    Binge Rider
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    New question here. Nomad / Race Face Atlas (BB) Question

    Never mind - found it myself.



    BTW - IF TNC reads this.... Hi! Long time no Speak huh? Spine Shank
    Last edited by Spine Shank; 09-22-2008 at 03:40 AM.
    "Courage is fear holding on a minute longer" General Patton


    [SIZE="1"]CAUTION: ADJUSTABLE SUSPENSION CONFUSES ME[/SIZE]

  2. #2
    TNC
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    noMAD man
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    Hey SS...it's been summer in west Texas and mountainbiking takes more of a backseat to my off road dirt motor stuff...LOL! It's freakin' hot here, but the past two weeks are getting back to normal with some good rides 4-5 times a week. Fall, winter, and spring are great here, but summer sucks...LOL! Plus, it seems that my '06 Nomad in its current setup has relieved my of the need to try out everything new that comes along...LOL!

  3. #3
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    New question here. Hey TNC - Read ... and others

    Hey TNC -

    I'm in Korea now! After moving from Southern AZ (awesome riding) to Olympia, WA (equally awesome riding, but different way views) the Army sent me to Korea. I've brought my rig and my SS but haven't had a whole lot of opportunity to ride. Like TX, this place has been hot. The riding season is just beginning here too!

    Can you back me up with this crankset? I installed a set of Deuce on my Enduro but that was a while ago.

    After reviewing Santa Cruz's website - the Nomad has a 73mm BB width and a 50ish mm chainline.

    Base on the meaurements above, the Race Face Atlas instructions call for 1 spacer on the drive-side BB cup & none on the non-drive side. The only problem was the Non-drive side was really hard to tighten down to the BB shell. The instructions call for it to be tighten to the shell face. So I backed off and looked for metal shavings; there were none. So I tried again, but still really hard to tighten. It is not X-threaded.

    So I stuck a few spacers on the Non-drive side but the then the was a gap inside the BB.

    Is this nornal for the Ext BB cups to be that hard to turn?

    Do you know if any spacer combinations other than what is suggested in the RACE FACE intructions that may work?

    Just looking for a little reassurance that I'm doing this guy right.

    Thanks -
    SS
    "Courage is fear holding on a minute longer" General Patton


    [SIZE="1"]CAUTION: ADJUSTABLE SUSPENSION CONFUSES ME[/SIZE]

  4. #4
    TNC
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    I'm taking that it's the BB cup that's hard to thread in and not the non-drive side crankarm? Can you elaborate on the "gap" inside the BB you referred to after installing spacers on the non-drive side? Where exactly is this gap? Basically there should be no difficulty threading in the BB cups or tightening down the splines on the non-drive side crankarm. Something doesnt sound right. What are you applying to the BB cup threads and BB shell threads before installing the two cups? Sometimes theres a thick application of threadlocker from the factory on the BB cup threads, and this can "gum up" the smooth threading-in of the cups sometimes, but it's not usually too bad.

  5. #5
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    Here's the answer

    [QUOTE=TNC]I'm taking that it's the BB cup that's hard to thread in and not the non-drive side crankarm? You are correct in this understanding.

    In ref to the gap there are two:

    When the cranks come out of the box, the BB is connected - both the Drive and Non Drive side via the Water / Dust sleeve. This sleeve is connected to the Drive Side.

    First there was a gap between the Non Drive BB Cup and and BB Shell Face. This was because the BB Cup was getting tougher and tougher to tighten down so I stopped. I thought I could use the spacers to fill the gap between the BB Cup and the shell face.

    When I did that though, that created the 2nd gap because the Water / Dust sleeve could not reach the BB Non Drive Side Cup. If you stuck your finger in the BB shell, you could feel threads between the end of the Water / Dust sleeve and the BB Non Drive Side.

    If I remove the spacers from the BB Cup Non Drive side (as recommended from the instructions - no spacers on non drive side) I could close the gap inside the BB and the Drive and Non Drive BB cup would connect with the Water / Dust sleeve.

    But it's awefully tough tightening like I mentioned before. It still turns - just tough. There is a lot of thread locker on it, like you mentioned. I applied a lot of grease too lube it up and that helped a little. Again, there is no metal shavings and the threads are not X-threaded. So I don't know why it is so hard to turn.

    My current set up as per the Race Face instructions are

    1 x 2.5mm spacer on the Drive Side BB Cup
    0 on the Non Drive Side BB Cup.

    SS
    "Courage is fear holding on a minute longer" General Patton


    [SIZE="1"]CAUTION: ADJUSTABLE SUSPENSION CONFUSES ME[/SIZE]

  6. #6
    TNC
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    I looked at Race Face's instructions on the crank, and it sounds like you're doing everything right. Can't tell you why that BB cup is being stiff.

  7. #7
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    I had the same tight BB on Nomad

    I had the same problem when I installed the first BB in my Nomad. I really had to put a lot of torque on both sides. It was definitely not cross-threaded. When I pulled that BB to replace it, the BB threads seemed to be cut down a bit. I took the frame in to be faced and chased (at least faced on the drive side, can't do the non-drive because of the pivot housing). This produced a pretty healthy set of shavings. New BB threaded in with the usual amount of force, just how you would like it. It appears that SC (or whoever builds their frames) is using their BB taps for a little longer than they should before they replace the cutters. Any how it is all good now.

  8. #8
    TNC
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    As Dave suggested, I find it's always a good idea to chase the BB threads on a new frame. In fact, I've never faced the BB on any of my frames and have never experienced any issues because of it. I have, however, seen many instances through the shop of rough threads in the BB shell on new frames. I have found this disturbing, as many of these frames were very high end models of many brands. I don't worry about facing the BB shell nearly as much as chasing the threads with our Park tool. Remember...you can always go back and face the BB shell without any fatal issue, but you can really screw up by forcing a BB into a set of rough threads in the frame.

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