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  1. #1
    Hold em high!
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    ... and if we just ... Nomad with a Pike

    Anyone running a Pike 454 on their Nomad? I'm told the Pike would sharpen the handling and reduce the weight from my current fork wt. of 6lbs. to 4.5 lbs. I'm curious if this is a good change. SC lists the Pike as one of their recommended forks. Feedback welcome. Thanks.

    Mean Gene
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  2. #2
    aka baycat
    Reputation: Ryan G.'s Avatar
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    I did, and it def. makes the handling that much better. But in hindsight I would opt for a 66 SL or a Van 36. I know someone running the Talas 36 and they love the set-up with the Nomad.

    Or another alternative is pick up an 05 AM 1 for around 400 bones!

    -Ryan

  3. #3
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    Thanks Baycat for the quick response. Are you still running the Pike?

    Mean Gene
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  4. #4
    aka baycat
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    Not even running the bike Friend "inherited" the Nomad. And he swapped the Pike for 66SL.

    Have ridden it a few times, and I cannot see anything drastically different. I think many others have hit it on the head that while the Nomad can be run with a Pike I really think you are missing out on the potential of the bike.

    Which may or may not be true since...matter of opinon.

    BUT, the Pike is a killer fork, I am running it on my IH MKIIII!

  5. #5
    TNC
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    Is it just me?

    Most of you regulars on the SC board have heard me rant on about running a sub-6" fork on a Nomad and the inherent pedal smacking that would result. My large Nomad with a Van 36 on it pedal smacks a little more than any bike I've owned...not horribly, but it's there. The Van 36 has 6.3" of travel. If I had a sub-6" fork on this thing it would be really bad. The thing is that I'm not really hearing anyone else comment on this issue. Are any of you other Nomad owners noticing this? I can see it not being a problem in less rocky or rutted areas, but otherwise it seems like a problem with a shorter fork. I mainly ride in terrain like what's in this pic. Any of you other Nomad folks notice any pedaling issues in rocky terrain?
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  6. #6
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    I used to run a Pike on my Nomad. It's great at full travel for agressive XC / Trail riding.
    I would like the option to have a little taller fork on some occasions, but the Pike does complement the Nomad real nice.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by TNC
    If I had a sub-6" fork on this thing it would be really bad. The thing is that I'm not really hearing anyone else comment on this issue. Are any of you other Nomad owners noticing this?
    I'm running the 66RC2X in the 150mm setting, so pretty much 6" on a medium Noamd. I haven't been smacking the pedals on anything, but i have noticed that the big ring on my shiny new XTR cranks gets in the way of logs more than the Stylo Team big ring on my old small size Norco VPS.

  8. #8
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    Gene; Hey, come check out the 66SlL be fore you put something else on your bike-it comliments the Nomad in a big way.
    turtle

  9. #9
    Redwood Dancer
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    Sub 6" on a Nomad... a low rider?

    Hey TNC, didn't we do this about a month ago. Anyway, I'm still running a Fox Talas 32- 130mm on a Large Nomad. I'm not getting much pedal smack... but hey, this is Santa Cruz with buffed redwood singletrack. Okay, enough of that - here in a nutshell is what I discovered after two months testing:

    Basically you can run the 32mm Fox Talas on the Nomad as a pretty good X-country rig, ie. winding ST and moderately technical sections. Mostly the problems that arise are:

    1) You might get some ' pedal whack' (depending on how and where you ride) cuz the axle-to-crown height of the 32mm Talas is shorter than equivalent forks, especially most Marz and Manitou's. If you did put on a 5" Manitou like a Sherman, I think it'd suite the geometry better than the various Fox 130mm's.

    2) Another problem is that you are changing the bikes geometry by making the normal Nomad's slack head angle of 68 degree a little steep by using a short fork... again not a big problem with cross country so much. It does love to sail thru twisty singletrack with this setup. However, when you go over drop-off ledges and do stunts like double jumps the front end can be a little twitchy while landing nose first. Generally, I can live with that cuz I also have a Superlight with a Talas 32mm and that is REALLY twitchy under all conditions, all the time - at least, compared to my new Nomad.

    My plan is to ride the Talas 130mm on my Nomad until I get the bucks, then buy a Marz All Mountain 1 or maybe a Fox 36 of some flavor --- hopefully by this Fall, when the prices drop considerably, as they always do.

    Note: If you do big jumps and stunts with the Fox 32mm Talas on any bike, it develops creaky bushings real fast. It's not ruined... it just creaks a lot. It's costs about $125 US to fix the creaks, so most bikers just ride it creaky. Reportedly, Fox technicians can tell if you're doing these big stunts cuz this deforms the shims on the rebound side... some say it voids your warranty. Anyone heard more about this?

    To sum it up. Yeah, you should buy a Nomad - but just plan on getting a taller beefier fork down the road. Until then, just have fun on the moderate stuff and leave the big hucks for later.
    RAIL OR F*!%#!*^G BAIL

  10. #10
    TNC
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    Hey Whangen, I just looked over at Turtle's writeup on his first big ride with the 66SL. His results were basically like mine. He even left it in the 170mm mode, and it still climbed and handled switchbacks with no issues. The Nomad is crazy in this area. It makes no sense on paper, but apparently the chainstay length and other geometry issues make for a platform that continues to be a capable climber and sharp handler even with some almost DH parts and fork A-C heights. Now, that pedal smacking in rocky sections with a short fork would do it for me as is, but this bike also seems to beg the question, "why would you want a short fork on a Nomad when it will still handle sharply and climb like an XC bike with a relatively tall, longer travel fork?"

    I'm not saying people shouldn't run what they have or what they want, but I sure want people who ask to know about the potential for pedal smacking in rough terrain, and the fact that you don't have to give up sharp handling and quality climbing on a Nomad with a relatively tall fork. And as you pointed out, the shorter forks will never give the Nomad the descending prowess that the taller forks can provide...and if you don't have to give up handling and climbing with the taller forks...well, it seems kinda logical. The only advantage of running a fork like your Talas 32 over say the Van 36 is the weight...what?...at least a pound, I believe? But then you gotta ask, "why run a Nomad?". Maybe a BLT would have been a better choice. I think one perception about the Nomad that is changing is what kind of bike the Nomad was going to be when we first started seeing and hearing about them. I think they're burlier, bigger hit bikes than we first thought they'd be. Not slamming other's choices here, just discussing all the variables.

  11. #11
    Redwood Dancer
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    Well I can sum up why I'm currently running the Fox Talas 130mm on my Nomad: I don't have the money for a six inch fork right now, so I run it as a cross country rig, mostly doing moderate stunts and ST. A Blur is a fine bike but has no downhill potential.

    I love the fact that so many folks are doing different setups on their Nomads: cafe-cruzin', xc, freeride, even downhill. It's kind of like a 'pound puppy' you bring home and find out your new dog's a good retriever, guard-dog and a lapdog to boot --- plus he loves to run with the big dogs
    RAIL OR F*!%#!*^G BAIL

  12. #12
    Dirt Displacer
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    Quote Originally Posted by TNC
    I think one perception about the Nomad that is changing is what kind of bike the Nomad was going to be when we first started seeing and hearing about them. I think they're burlier, bigger hit bikes than we first thought they'd be.
    I agree with that totally.

    At first I was very leery of running a fork above 160mm, or loading the bike down with chainguides, serious brakes, or heavy wheelsets..... Even after reading SC's allowable fork specs. Just seeing pictures of the bike, and reading a straight geometery stat-sheet lead me to believe that any build on the far side of all-mountain would compromise the bike's handling somewhat.
    But once I got the frame in my hands, and upon close inspection, I knew that it could handle a lot more than what the magazines and SC would let on.
    This impression was further strengthened once I saw guys on here loading their Nomad's for bear..... which eased my apprehension greatly, for I fully intended on loading it with the longest travel (within reason) fork, the most powerful brakes, and the heaviest-duty parts I could afford.
    But at the same time, I would've been just as comfortable running a travel-adjustable XC fork, drivetrain, and wheelset.
    If I had ended up with a 150mm or less fork, I believe that the bike's versatility would've kept things enjoyable, but personally, I'd always wonder.....
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