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  1. #1
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    More linkage bearing woes

    So this happened the other night trying to drift the bearings out with Santa Cruz's own bearing tool. Two came out ok, the other two exploded.



    Any suggestions on dealing with the stuck outer race? I feel like I got dud bearings on this frame seeing as I've had 4 other seize up on me in the lower linkage after 6 months use (with regular cleaning/greasing!)

  2. #2
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    More linkage bearing woes

    I think Santa Cruz states that this may happen on disassembly and gives instructions on their tech sheet on how to remove the broken bearing. Check the tech sheet on the Santa Cruz web site.
    --Reamer

  3. #3
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    One of the bearings exploded when I tried to remove it- what do I do now?

    Unfortunately angular contact bearings are not very strong when you side load them in the opposite direction they were designed to be loaded in. So, sometimes when removing them, they will come apart, leaving the outer race still in the link.
    The Bearing Removal Tool 7900 can be flipped around to remove the stuck bearing race. Remove all of the seals and balls from the broken bearing, and clean out the grease so you can see what is going on. Use the removal tool as usual, but reverse the orientation of the removal jaws. The larger jaws will grab the bearing race.
    Make sure the large flat face in the center of the removal jaws is flush on the bearing race. Once you have the removal driver installed, and all seems flush and flat, give the driver a couple of taps with a hammer. The race will come right out.
    :thumbsup ! Will try it now.

  4. #4
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    +repped

    Worked for me with a bit of a modification to SC's tool (shaft was a bit small to hold captive on races to I wrapped it in tape). Thanks heaps reamer41.

  5. #5
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    More linkage bearing woes

    Quote Originally Posted by cplagz View Post
    +repped

    Worked for me with a bit of a modification to SC's tool (shaft was a bit small to hold captive on races to I wrapped it in tape). Thanks heaps reamer41.
    Sure thing.
    I wasn't in a place where I could look it up myself, but glad my post helped.
    --Reamer

  6. #6
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    Also if you heat up the linkage, the aluminum expands quicker than the steel race, it helps if working it out. I used a torch.

  7. #7
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    I originally tried taping the fat part of the shaft so that it would just fit through the main bore hole, which required a lot of tape. I thought maybe keeping the tool centered was the key, but the jaws of the removal tool still slipped off the race, so I gave up.

    A couple of days later, I had another idea. The shaft of my tool has two different diameters, a thin shaft just behind the point, which then steps up to a wider diameter shaft. This time I put one wrap of electrical tape around the thin shaft just behind the point. I really could not envision how that would succeed, but just like you said when I inserted the shaft into the jaws of the removal tool, the jaws grabbed the edge of the race tightly, and I was able to pound out both of my broken races. Miracle!

    I have to admit, I had just as much trouble pressing in the bearings as getting them out: the bearings would not go in straight. I must have tried to press the first bearing in at least 50 times using many different approaches, but the bearing always started out crooked. I cursed that SC bearing press tool just as much as their bearing removal tool.

    Finally, I resorted to pounding on the crooked edge with an extender bar (essentially a round stainless steel bar), and that got the bearing straight enough to use the bearing press tool. That technique worked well for the large bearings, but I ended up damaging the outside edge of one of the smaller bearings. It seems to spin smoothly, but I don't know if it will be susceptible to breaking down under load.

    Anyway, I'm ready to install my upper link. Thanks for all the help!

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