So while converting my 2011 to 1x10 I had the darndest time fitting my e.13 guide. I ended up taking the hacksaw to the lower roller/guide to make it clear the pivots on the frame. Kind of a ghetto MRP AMG guide. For those with frames without ISCG mounts, what guides will clear the frame and let me keep the bottom roller?
So while converting my 2011 to 1x10 I had the darndest time fitting my e.13 guide. I ended up taking the hacksaw to the lower roller/guide to make it clear the pivots on the frame. Kind of a ghetto MRP AMG guide. For those with frames without ISCG mounts, what guides will clear the frame and let me keep the bottom roller?
so riddle me this....what was the logic behind even making lines not run continuous down the bike???? it can't be weight. i can only think of perhaps resistance or smoothness of shifting but all the areas exposed are of course straight runs so the resistance there is nil any how.
on my blt2 i have the runs for the shifting lines going through a small hollow tube of plastic line so it is protected from the outside elements and dirt. it is basically a totally sealed system and has worked very well for over a year.
It is the RC3 Ti. I've only had it on proper trails a couple times, but so far I like it. I've had a couple 36's, a Lyrik, and a 32, and in terms of stiffness its noticeably stiffer than the 32. Well worth any extra weight. I'm still getting use to dampening/spring rate etc. It feels way too soft on the road, but once it hits the trails it does an excellent job. Small bump compliance is excellent, and there is no noticeable bottoming out. I'm running 0 psi in the air assist, 1 or two clicks of low speed compression, and I'm still playing with the rebound to get it where I like it.
Found my old LT2 frame for sale for cheap and had to buy it back again. Looked pretty rough but have given it a bit of a clean up, cant wait to build it up.
yep! It works out perfectly. if you're gonna run a 1x setup, go with a zee or saint derailleur so you can run short cage (you need the FR specific one for an 11-36 cassette capacity). the XTR only goes down to medium.
Bought last winter frm SC sale. Blur LT2.2 Large
Great climber for a 140mm bike but I am still trying to short descents and figure out the cockpit. With 70mm stem I feel out of balance at 1.86cm (6.1).
Tested something new for this year and dropped 36rc2 to 150mm, and also installed Burgtec reducer off set bushing to RP23. Now BB should be 1 cm lower and angles are same as before (HA 66 with works components), after first tests, there is a clear difference and handling is better with lower center of gravity. 30€ investment paid off well.
Bikegreece, what fork are you running(and what travel)? Maybe the fork is running a bit soft compared to the rear?
I had challenges getting my my BLT2.0 sorted out, and found the balance between the front ad rear made a big difference for me.
I also picked up a 2.2 from the sale, and am still tweeking my suspension and cockpit as well. I'm 6 foot on a large frame, also 70mm stem. Gonna run a fox 36 float at 140-150mm(havent decided yet).
True, I feel my fork (a 2012 Marz 44 Micro TA 150mm) a bit soft sometimes. Those times I feel "better" to lock it out and soften the threshold a lot.
I am switching into a 90mm stem and I am looking for a post with 1" offset. Today most of the companies offer 24" (or even longer) top tubes for a large, this is important particular with all those short stems around. SC adopted a longer TT into their carbon Blur frames but the Alu version has an oldish geometry. My 2009 stumpy used to feel like a train into the trails and my anthem x is more stable.
Could be my riding style, I am an old dog not easy to learn the new tricks. Maybe now at 47, what others call "agile" is "unstable" for me and I cannot ride standing on the pedals to balance all the time. In any case, the bike feels short.
I agree with your 36 choice but, I believe now I prefer it at 160mm. I might start looking for one like this as well.
Well I wanted to maximize bb drop, and also I have fatty tires. Another thing is that I don't want to slacken seat angle more, so fork is now 150. In my case, I have staight 1 1/8" headtube, and angleset actually did slacken seat angle and lifted bb due to high bearing cup at bottom. When it is dry in forest, needle bearing will be put to RP23 another end, let's see how's that behaving.
I'm looking to pick up an LT2 frame from SC sale but I am looking for opinions on what size. I'm 6'1"ish with around 31.5" inseem, what do you all suggest?
XL , just sold my L for being too short (see my previous posts in here as well). I am 6.1, 33inseam. I guess your 31.5 inseam gives you a longer torso so a L will be too short unless you plan to run 90+mm stems. Then of course comes the riding style and personal preferences.
Pulled the trigger and grabbed a large LTc frame from the clearance sale.
Everything is ready and I'm heading out for my first ride. The 160mm front rotor might be a bit small, but I'm hoping the power of the Formula RX brakes can compensate.
However I would definitely change front rotor to 180 minimum. Unless you are small girl and your descents are very short
You will BURN this one on anything steep and long, I am afraid
The Large Blur has gone. At 6.1" was very shortish for me. An XL carbon has arrived. Yes it feels bigger and not as manoeuvrable as I would like to, wish if I had this package and travel in a TRc geometry or, maybe I will....
Short-shock that rear by about 1/4" by slipping in some spacers. Travel reduction should be down to about 130mm (anecdotal - I short-shocked my 2.5" stroke down to 2.18" stroke, and got ~126mm in travel). You'll slack out the front end just a touch. With all things being equal on your fork's rake (same fork), you'll reduce the bike's trail and should speed up steering (yeah, I know this sounds counter intuitive) a bit while the slacker angle helps w/ high speeds. It'll also lowers your BB a bit too.
Edit: correction...some bad math. 1/4" short-shocking will get you ~125mm travel.
You could also use offset shock bushings to slacken the head tube a degree and drop the BB a little. I'm trying to do this to my LTc but I'm not sure how much offset I can use. Burgtec only sells 3mm offsets and has a kit for the LTc for about $60, so maybe 3mm fits. You can also find them on eBay. Less expensive than a new shock if it'll fit, and no decrease in travel. I tested, and a 2.35 tire (Slant Six in my case) does not contact the seat tube at bottom out if the shock were offset 6mm (total compressed shock length of 146.4mm, see picture).
Anyone know exactly how much offset you can use on the LTc? My estimation is that 2mm is the maximum offset you can use on the upper and lower mounts before the mount/shock body and rear of shock/linkage make contact, but I'd like to be sure before ordering.
You could also use offset shock bushings to slacken the head tube a degree and drop the BB a little. I'm trying to do this to my LTc but I'm not sure how much offset I can use. Burgtec only sells 3mm offsets and has a kit for the LTc for about $60, so maybe 3mm fits. You can also find them on eBay. Less expensive than a new shock if it'll fit, and no decrease in travel. I tested, and a 2.35 tire (Slant Six in my case) does not contact the seat tube at bottom out if the shock were offset 6mm (total compressed shock length of 146.4mm, see picture).
Anyone know exactly how much offset you can use on the LTc? My estimation is that 2mm is the maximum offset you can use on the upper and lower mounts before the mount/shock body and rear of shock/linkage make contact, but I'd like to be sure before ordering.
JL, I've been looking at this for my aluminum LT2 but with 8mm shock bolts, the most offset I can find is only 1mm at each end. This makes sense since there isn't any room to offset it more. I decided against it because an overall reduction of 2mm in i2i length is negligible and not worth the money. I thought the carbon frame had the same size bolts but maybe not?
LTc also has 8mm bolts. I've crunched the numbers and think 2mm should fit on both ends. I emailed a few of the offset bushing sellers to double check; I'll report back when they respond. Would be funny if the 3mm kit Burgtec has for the LT2 doesn't actually fit.
I have the offset shock bushing from Proshox, I haven't installed it yet, as I just finished swapping parts over from my LT to LTc this weekend, will do it tomorrow and report back.
xhailofgunfirex, how many mm offset are your bushings? I thought they only come in 1, 2, and 3mm- did they custom drill them for you? This would make Berkley's 3.4mm calculation make sense..curious to see how they fit and if the effect on geometry is noticeable.
The hole in the shock is 15mm so it should be doable with 8mm bolts depending on the thicknesses of the bushings and how close to the edge they can drill the offset.
The naked eyelet I.D. is 15mm. But then there's a bushing pressed into that. The I.D. of the bushing is 12.7mm. The offset that xhailofgunfirex has is the most you'll be able to do. 3mm offset only exists for frames with 6mm bolt diameter.
Thanks for the clarification. I thought the offset kit had reducers with a thinner wall that open the hole to greater than 12.7mm.
If he actually means the thickness of the reducer is 0.65mm (rather than how thin the wall next to the offset hole is), that opens the ID to 15- 2(.65) = 13.7mm opening, rather than the stock 12.7, which your numbers are based on. Then you get 13.7 eyelet - 8 bolt -1mm for minimum thickness = 4.7mm. 13.7 diameter/2=6.85 radius - 4.7 = 2.15mm. 4-2.15 = 1.85mm offset per eyelet or 3.7mm with both. Will just wait and see how he likes his setup. Should do right about 0.5 degrees slacker this way, similar to the newest gen BLTa at 67.6.
ProShox just responded and confirmed this, saying his offsets for 8mm bolts provides 1.8mm offset per side or 3.6 for the both, wonder if it's worth it.
Alright, so I only purchased one offset bushing, I placed that in the lower shock mount, clearance is fine. I honestly couldn't even tell the difference when measuring the bb height, at best maybe 1/8" though I could be off just measuring between setups.. My phones level accuracy is not enough to tell me if any change in head angle, just putting it on the head tube and taking it off I get different readings. So right now from what I'm seeing it's not worth it for just the one.
Which there was this discussion a few weeks ago when I ordered it! lol
I deflated my shock until it sagged as close to 3.6mm as possible and that produced visibly different results in the BB height and HT angle- just under a degree in HT angle and ~10mm BB drop. Thank you for the information. I'll probably get a set.
I just reinstalled and remeasured everything on a super flat surface, without the offset bushing I had a BB height of 13 5/8". With the offset bushing I have a BB height of 13 1/2". So it seems 1/8" drop per bushing, so total you could get 1/4". 10mm drop seems pretty optimistic?
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