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Thread: Heckler Bros!

  1. #1
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    Heckler Bros!

    Just wanted to say whats up, since I'll be hanging in this thread more than the others.

    I just ordered a new new Heckler from my LBS. Switchback in OC,CA. good peeps there.

    Size small, with the R AM kit upgrade from SC, and a couple more upgrades to that, like a RP23 rear and the 2009 Talas up front.

    I am considering upgrading the Juicy Fives (185/185) from the R AM kit as well, only don't know to what, thats why I'm here. I wanna here from Heckler riders what they think works best on this bike, or what you have upgrades to. U thought about the Sevens just for the adjustibility? Maybe the Elixers?

    If any other people this R AM kit and have suggesions about upgrading other parts as well please speak up! I have thought about the cranks set possibly, everything else I demmed sufficient for a while.

    I'm 5'5 -- 150pds ordered a -- sSmall WHITE Heckler.

    Should be built by Tuesday, can't wait!

  2. #2
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    Good job!

    Welcome to the club. You'll love the versatility of your new ride. I have been on my Heckler since April (X9 AM setup). You can't go wrong with the juicy 7s. I rode Hayes nines for 5 years and there is no comparison - the adjustability and modulation of the 7s are top notch. Don't know much about the elixirs, though. The only upgrade I've really made is to tubeless Nevegals and a Stan's kit. I ride in some pretty rocky stuff in Northeast PA and have had no problem w/pinch flats, even with pretty low pressure at times.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by genrec
    Just wanted to say whats up, since I'll be hanging in this thread more than the others.

    I just ordered a new new Heckler from my LBS. Switchback in OC,CA. good peeps there.

    Size small, with the R AM kit upgrade from SC, and a couple more upgrades to that, like a RP23 rear and the 2009 Talas up front.

    I am considering upgrading the Juicy Fives (185/185) from the R AM kit as well, only don't know to what, thats why I'm here. I wanna here from Heckler riders what they think works best on this bike, or what you have upgrades to. U thought about the Sevens just for the adjustibility? Maybe the Elixers?

    If any other people this R AM kit and have suggesions about upgrading other parts as well please speak up! I have thought about the cranks set possibly, everything else I demmed sufficient for a while.

    I'm 5'5 -- 150pds ordered a -- sSmall WHITE Heckler.

    Should be built by Tuesday, can't wait!




    Stick with the Juicy 5's......gives you something to upgrade to in the future.


    Jason @ Switchback Cyclery

  4. #4
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    If you ordered it today from SC (assuming not in stock at the dealer), and get it Tuesday - I will be amazed. SC doesn't work on those kind of timelines.
    2008 Heckler

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    It was orderd back on Tuesday.

  6. #6
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    i say stick with the 5's for now...the rp23 is a nice shock, and being that you're only 150lbs it should provide you with all the support you need, but the heckler really shines with a coil shock out back....if you dont mind the LITTLE bit of extra weight, i say go DHX 5.0 and the bike will really just come alive....personally i would just ride the bike as much as you can just like you have it, and down the road if something breaks or gets worn out, THEN replace stuff....

  7. #7
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    Sounds perfect the way it is.

  8. #8
    cps
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    I had my Heckler R AM in August (ordered on a Saturday and got it on the next Wednesday, not earlier because my lbs does not open on Sundays, Mondays not Tuesday mornings..., 'Gone Biking...). This as a reply for the comment on the timeline.
    As for the R AM, I left my bike as it came, and for the moment, fork, rs, and brakes, in my opinion the crucial parts, work amazingly well considering my 210 lbs and 6,3'' height. The juicy's make me stop on 30% > downhills no questions asked. They may squeak a bit, but who cares. The Talas is a very good fork, but so is the RS Revelation 426, it damps junps, rockgardens and the like at high speed, and allows to be blocked out on those steep climbs. The float r is working the way it should work, I may change it in time, but for the tie being no complaints.
    The only issue I have is weight, but then, my legs just enjoy a better workout.
    I just would say, stick with the bike as it is and upgrade when parts fall apart. The frame will outlive you.
    Congratulations on your purchase and hope to hear back from you.

  9. #9
    Gangreen
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    You'll love your Heckler. Brake-wise, I ended up downsizing the rear rotor to 160mm, as the rear tends to lock up and slide with little provocation using the stock 185mm rotor. I can still slide the rear, just takes a more deliberate effort and overall the rear is much more progressive now. The other main upgrade I've done is wheels - the DT Swiss 340/5.1 hub/rim combo that came on my Heckler weighed over 2000 grams without skewers. That's a heavy wheelset! Unless you're planning on 8-10' hucks, you can really add some snap with lighter wheels. I'm in So Cal too, and I'm now rolling on DT Swiss 240's/4.2 rims now with either the stock 2.35 Neve's for soft conditions, or 2.4 WTB Mutanoraptors for epics/racing. I weight about 175 fully dressed and these wheels are holding up well for me. One other reco on wheels should you upgrade, the 240 hubs I have use the DT RWS thru axle, 9mm in front, 10mm in rear. Still fits Heckler dropouts, but way more rigid than stock 5mm QR's. Finally, I swapped the stock 90mm stem for a 70mm and really love that change too.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by nowshon
    9mm in front, 10mm in rear. Still fits Heckler dropouts, but way more rigid than stock 5mm QR's.
    in case you didn't know, a QR axle is still 10mm for the rear, and some newer shimano's are 10mm front too....you make it sound like you're doubling axle size, when you're not....the QR doesn't carry any weight at all....yes 10mm bolt on's are stronger, but just letting you know that QR axles are still the same size.....

  11. #11
    Gangreen
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    Actually, the stock DT Swiss QR's are 5mm in diameter (same as a road bike QR). The DT Swiss RWS Thru Axles are 9mm diameter in front and 10mm in back. The rear QR is indeed double the diameter. Without a doubt, an oversize axle, whether 9, 10, 12, 15 or 20mm, will provide a noticable increase in rigidity.

  12. #12
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    right, but you saying "5mm" QR isn't as stiff as a "9mm or 10mm" axle, makes it seem like you're getting double the stiffness.....THE QR DOESN'T HOLD ANY WEIGHT.....you're comparing apples to oranges......the QR axle is still 9 and 10mm respectively.....same size.....just that one is hollow, and the other is solid....the RWS IS your new axle....it's an axle and skewer in one, instead of having a hollow axle, and a solid skewer....

    you should have never used the term "5mm" anywhere, b/c that makes us think that YOU think that the QR's hold the weight of the bike...when the bike still rests on a 9 and 10mm axle be it a QR axle, or a threaded bolt on axle, or an RWS axle...

  13. #13
    Gangreen
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    I understand now that you're saying the hub itself has a built in hollow axle shaft that is 9, 10, 15 or 20mm in inside diameter. Is it correct to conclude that a "conventional'' hub (that accepts a 5mm QR shaft) has axle end-caps with 5mm diameter holes for the QR to pass through? If this is correct, then in this example, does the 5mm QR shaft "float" in the middle of a 9, 10, 15 or 20mm axle shaft? And if this is correct, then doesn't the weight of the bike rest on the tops of a 5mm QR steel shaft where it enters and exits the axle caps? If all of the above are true, then to conclude that a QR doesn't support the weight of a bike even when the QR is closed seems counterintuitive. Even the thickest steel or aluminum dropouts will flex during rides, and load the QR with varying degrees of vertical and lateral forces. Otherwise we'd all be using 5mm titanium skewers on downhill bikes, except they would flex so much they'd be unusable.

  14. #14
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    dude, on a conventional QR hub, lets say a front hub in this case, the axle extends about 5mm past the end of the serrated lock nuts, which is the surface that contacts the inside of the dropouts...so you have a 100mm spacing between lock nuts, and an axle that is 110mm wide....SO the weight of the bike is resting on the 9mm axle, that has a 5mm hole all the way through, for the QR....the skewer only provides a clamping force to hold the fork blades together...take your skewers out and you can still sit on the bike, b/c the skewer doesn't hold any weight....the axle does...

    you're saying the hub itself has a built in hollow axle shaft that is 9, 10, 15 or 20mm in inside diameter
    nooooooo, a 9 and 10mm QR axle has an ID of prob 5.5mm, for a 5mm skewer to fit through.....15 and 20mm TA's ARE hollow, but there's nothing that passes through them....

  15. #15
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    Mental Sunrise! I am a dufus. Nothing more need be said

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