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  1. #1
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    Butcher 650b build by know nothing noob.

    Hi all,
    Now that I got my first 5 posts out of the way (previous lurker)
    I could use a little help and advice.
    I just picked up a SC butcher frame with rp23 shock on clearance for 675.00
    Got a black xl.

    I've been reading comments and almost went for a yeti complete bike but you guys and gals have inspired me to build my own even though I've never done any mech work on bicycles before. Just dirt bikes.

    I'm really big. 6'2" and 247 lbs. Strong. And I intend to ride steep and rough single track trail in Colorado primarily. Lotsa baby heads, roots, stairsteps and other nonsense. I'm too old to race so it'll just be for kicks w/ comrades.

    I'm somewhat knowledgeable of different build kits-levels and don't want big bling, just tough stuff that'll take my clydesdale body hammering it.

    So, I'm now looking for some recommendations on parts choices, setup, etc...
    Oh yeah, one of the reasons I decided against the yeti is that i'm bitten by the 650b wheel thingy. They may never have that or it'll be a while.

    Forks: ?
    Brakes; want really good brakes ! ???
    Wheelset: gotta take a clydesdale on gnarly stuff...
    Cassette-gearing setup: prefer 11-36 but 1x9, 1x10, 2x9 or 2x10, don't need speed, need a climber
    Chainring: 22-36 ? sound smart, dumb...?
    Headset: I'm a real noob here ?
    Bars/Cockpit: duh...

    Need a lot of help and encouragement here. Hope I didnt screw the pooch.

  2. #2
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    650!

    Just my personal bias

    Forks: ?
    *Fox float 36 160
    Brakes; want really good brakes ! ???
    *Shimano XT w/ 200mm rotors
    Wheelset: gotta take a clydesdale on gnarly stuff...
    *TL28 or Stans Flow rim, Hope/King/WTB/I9 hubs (look for a deal). Get em custom built for your weight with straight guage spokes. Maybe try to find 36 hole rims for additional strength. I'm running flows and really like the tubeless option.
    Cassette-gearing setup: prefer 11-36 but 1x9, 1x10, 2x9 or 2x10, don't need speed, need a climber
    Chainring: 22-36 ? sound smart, dumb...?
    I'm digging the 2x10 with a 26-38. You do miss out on 1 or 2 low end gears, but I can't imagine using a 22-36 ratio much (I'm a former clyde... just dropped under 200#)
    Headset: I'm a real noob here ?
    Chris king or cane creek, mixed taper (depending on the fork). Can't go wrong with either. wouldn't go anywhere else.
    Bars/Cockpit: duh...
    Easton DH carbon bars. Thompson stem,

    Don't be afraid to tinker. I buy and sell parts on the auction site all the time just to try them out. Some of the mixed standards can get confusing.... 15mm vs 20mm forks/hubs, 135 vs 142mm rear hubs, 1-1/8 vs 1.5" headsets or mixed taper. But to me there is nothing much more rewarding than specing out and building a complete bike.

    Oh, and you won't regret going 650!

  3. #3
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    Thank you BD. I appreciate the advice.
    Any suggestions on bb ?

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    Xt

    Quote Originally Posted by roxo56 View Post
    Thank you BD. I appreciate the advice.
    Any suggestions on bb ?
    Get a double crankset that comes with an external bb, like the XT or XTR (depending on budget)
    Shimano XT FC-M785 Crankset > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

    Look for the deals

    SRAM stuff is good too. I have just had better luck with shimano. Both are super simple to install. I've also had raceface cranks, but the pissed me off on a warrantee issue so I'll never go back.

  5. #5
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    Would someone check my wishlist below and see if I have any obvious conflicts ?
    It'll probably show my ignorance, but if you see where I'm making a terrible mistake please let me know.
    Am I missing anything despite the obvious front der.?
    Prices shown are from the big internet part houses and best guesses (x-fusion forks).
    Been reading a lot and want brakes to be good. Should I put out for formulas or are xtr better ?
    Wheels and brakes I'm obsessing on and wheelsets to have hope 2 evo hubs.
    I think theyre a good balance between reliability and cost.




    frame: butcher 2x10 $675.00 3379
    Fork: fox talas 34 27.5 $1,075.00 2070
    alt fork: x-fusion slant 34 rl2 dla $675.00 1995
    headset: cane creek 40 $60.00 62
    bb: integral w/ crankset below
    crankset: shimano M785 dyna-sys 26t-38t $256.00 820
    front der: n/a
    rear der: shimano m780 GS 9xtr) 10 spd $88.00 235
    shift levers: shimano xt sl-m780 $67.99 135
    cassette: Shimano XT Dyna-Sys CS-M771 $80.00 337
    chain: Shimano XTR Dyna-Sys CN-M980 $56.00 259
    built front wheel: stans flow 32 hole $240.00 971
    built rear wheel: stans flow 32 hole $340.00 1081
    tires: pacenti 650b 2.3 $59.00 640
    tires: pacenti 650b 2.3 $59.00 735
    front brake: shimano xtr $199.00 245
    rear brake: shimano xtr $199.00 245
    front rotor: Shimano XT SM-RT86 203mm $65.00 198
    rear rotor: Shimano XT SM-RT86 160mm $70.00 125
    handlebar: Easton Havoc DH Handlebar Mid-Rise B] $75.00[/B] 315
    stem: TRUVATIV AKA Stem $46.00 170
    seat: WTB Silverado SLT Saddle $136.00 192
    seatpost: Truvativ AKA 31.8mm, black $63.00 270
    pedals: Crank bros eagbeaters $159.00 400

    totals: $2,952.99 12809

  6. #6
    RTM
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    Quote Originally Posted by roxo56 View Post
    Would someone check my wishlist below and see if I have any obvious conflicts ?
    It'll probably show my ignorance, but if you see where I'm making a terrible mistake please let me know.
    Am I missing anything despite the obvious front der.?
    Prices shown are from the big internet part houses and best guesses (x-fusion forks).
    Been reading a lot and want brakes to be good. Should I put out for formulas or are xtr better ?
    Wheels and brakes I'm obsessing on and wheelsets to have hope 2 evo hubs.
    I think theyre a good balance between reliability and cost.

    Sounds really nice. I came across this doing a search for Butcher and had the same type of build in mind. here are my suggestions.

    chain: Shimano XTR Dyna-Sys CN-M980 $56.00 259

    I generally go with less expensive chains. I know it's not a lot of money but I replace mine every season. A mid-range $30 chain will be great, unless you specifically wanted the xtr for some reason.

    built front wheel: stans flow 32 hole $240.00 971
    built rear wheel: stans flow 32 hole $340.00 1081

    Good choice. And the hope pro 2 evos are strong, light and reliable. I found Chain Reaction Cycles had them for a great price.

    tires: pacenti 650b 2.3 $59.00 640
    tires: pacenti 650b 2.3 $59.00 735

    Following this closely as I'd like to know about clearance as well.

    seat: WTB Silverado SLT Saddle $136.00 192

    Have this one and really like it. It's firm for sure. First several rides of the season are tough but it's a great saddle.

    pedals: Crank bros eagbeaters $159.00 400

    I would suggest the XT trail.

    totals: $2,952.99 12809[/QUOTE]

    Only caution here is not to forget shipping and stated weights are usually pretty light.



    - Rob

  7. #7
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    Thanks Rob for the suggestions.
    Spent yesterday shopping on pricepoint for bargains and bought about a third of the parts, pedals got changed to: Shimano M785 XT SPD Trail Pedal...

    Is that the pedal choice you're referring to ?
    If so, I took your advice in advance.

    Also, they had a good price on alligator windcutter rotors. Hope they werent a mistake. Anyway they were cheap & light.

    I got the weights from the individual mfg's websites on each item, still it was just for rough calcs since I'm not going to care about a pound or two being a clydesdale and all.

    Here's whats left to buy after yesterdays shopping spree:


    Fork: x-fusion slant 34 rl2 dla $675.00 1995
    headset cane creek 40 $60.00 62
    tires kenda nevegal dtc 650b x 2.1" ( 2 ) $79.98 1280
    brakes shimano saint m810 x 2 $400.00 250

    wheel stuff:
    front hub hope evo $99.00 302
    rear hubhope evo $225.00 275
    front rim velocity blunt sl 650b $70.00 400
    rear rim velocity blunt sl 650b $70.00 400
    spokes sapim butted "strongs" 13-14 $56.99 453
    nipples sapims
    labor LBS lace and true $80.00

    totals $1,735.97 5417

    So, here's a couple questions about my newly revised components list.
    Kenda Nevs OK or stay with Pacenti's ?
    Velocity rims or stay with Flowex's ?
    Saint brakes or xtr's ?

    Finally, anyone know where to buy those sapim's 13/14 single butteds stateside ???
    Thanks in advance. Y'all are teaching me a lot !

  8. #8
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    Rox,

    Nev's or Neo's are both good tires. Some folks have said that you can't run stan's sealant with Kenda tires. Not sure if this is ture. I've run a dab of sealant with UST Maxxis high rollers for years, but the latest batch I put on there formed huge blisters in the tire and Maxxis claimed it was because of the sealant and wouldn't warrantee them.

    I've been happy with the Neo's, but they are hard to find right now.

    One comment on your build... Have you confirmed a 2.3 650 tire will fit on the butcher? (oh, I guess you are looking at 2.1 Kendas now? I would strongly suggest a 2.3 on the front)

    The slat fork looks interesting for the price, but are you sure for your size you wouldn't prefer a 36 fork? I haven't tried the 34's to compare stiffness, but you are describing a big guy riding rough terrain.

    On brakes, I would spend the extra $ on drivetrain. say xt brakes and xtr double crankset. Not sure on the saints. One anal retentiveness of mine is that I like to keep the same rotor size front and rear so I only would need 1 size spare.

    Agreed on earlier comment... I don't spend the $ on xtr chains or cassettes. xt stuff is just as good for me.

    I think the Velocity rims are going to be a bit burlier than the flows.

  9. #9
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    Oh, and be careful to match your fork / front hub selection. The 34's have a 15mm thru axle hub and the 36s take a 20mm hub. I think you have swap out axles on the Hop's tho.

  10. #10
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    I do not know for sure if 2.3s will but I'm gambling switching to the blunt sl's (narrower than standard blunts) will allow the fit. The slants come w/ their own 15mm qr system. I'm thinking that the hope hubs which are very easily interchangeable/convertible will work w/ it but I'm going to call x-fusion about that before I buy hubs or forks.

    I don't care about drivetrain quality all that much since gears are wear item territory anyways.
    You're opinion matches my LBS service guy's opinion about xt brakes being good enough and xtr/saints not being needed. I'll go with xt's then.
    That'll save about 200.00 that I'll use on something else.
    Actually that 200.00 would probably pay for a fork upgrade to 36's ? Maybe...

    I'll soon know if the wheels fit and I'll take photo's and weights of the build.
    Thanks for the advice and opinions so far. I'm learning.
    roxo56
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  11. #11
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    It took some searching around but I found and bought the Fox float 36's you suggested.
    Price w/ delivery included was $561
    They are new in the box '11s but I don't care. I won't notice.
    The X-fusion slants won't be available until Jan.'13 earliest. FYI, distributor said the price will be $680.00. Not bad, not great. They'll be 34mm

    Money saved allows me upgrade of either brakes (Saints or xtr's ) or crankset (xtr)...
    What's the better choice for a clydesdale ?

    Decided on xt hubs. Will upgrade later to the hopes or somrthing else ?
    Bought blunt sl's today too.
    Now the hard part, spoke length calcs...
    Anyone want to check my math ?

    Oh yeah, picked up a cheapy digital scale to weigh everything for actuals.
    Will post it all plus pix.
    I usually hate shopping but this is cool...
    roxo56
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  12. #12
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    Haha! You just can't get over those XTR brakes! How about putting the savings in your pocket for next season when tires, chain, cassette need to be replaced, or stuff starts to break. Which I know it will due to the many many miles you will put on this beauty! I can't wait to see the bike.

    One last suggestion, take that $80 you'd pay the LBS to build the wheels and buy a Feedback Sports truing stand and the wheel building book by Roger Musson. It's so well written the build is actually easy, so much fun, saves money and you'll never need an LBS to true or repair wheels or upgrade to new hubs again!

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    Yeah, that's a thought. Watched a youtube video that was in several parts on how-to lace up a 3cross mtb wheel.

    To be honest, it looked intimidating. Everything else about building a bike looks straight forward.

    Not very many people seem to think that highly of xtr brakes. OK, I'm sold on xt's. Thnx.

    I would like your ideas about cranks. Want a dbl ring setup. I think I want a 22-36 count.
    Should I get a set (bb included) or is it better to go with a premium BB like a CK ?

    Is the BB important enuf to spend bigger bucks on. It seems like since it's a wear item and is going to need replacing regularly anyways. Do they sell the rings separately or do you have to buy the whole shebang ?

    I notice some co.s like e*Thirteen seem to sell the arms separately and others like shimano I see no notice of rings being sold alone for replacement ???

    Sorry for the questions. I am a noob.
    roxo56
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by roxo56 View Post
    Yeah, that's a thought. Watched a youtube video that was in several parts on how-to lace up a 3cross mtb wheel. To be honest, it looked intimidating. Everything else about building a bike looks straight forward.
    that's exactly what I thought too. I'd always steered clear of wheels, but it really is quite simple and satisfying.

    Not very many people seem to think that highly of xtr brakes. OK, I'm sold on xt's. Thnx.
    yeah, its not that XTRs aren't outstanding, its a matter of paying a LOT for a small incremental improvement in weight and negligible performance.

    Want a dbl ring setup. I think I want a 22-36 count.
    I'm not sure I've seen that ratio on a dedicated 2x10 crank. of course I haven't seen everything! That sounds like what you may end up with if you remove the big ring off a 3x crank. 22 is awfully small and probably a waste. I'd shoot for something around 26/38 range.

    Should I get a set (bb included) or is it better to go with a premium BB like a CK ?
    On a new build I like to buy the arms & BB as a package. Its just one less thing to figure out. The BB is technically a wear item (ain't they all!) but one that wears really really well. A good, reasonable BB will last for thousands of hard miles. I would not (personally) invest in a super expensive after market version. If you were a roadie or XC racer, maybe it would be justifiable but for every day all-mountain...eh.

    Regarding crank choices; Shimano XT has for a very long time been the go-to, bulletproof choice for cranksets. They are strong, light & reliable in my experience. The SRAM X9 is also a great value. gearing and color may ultimately sway your decision. Jenson has some good prices.

    XO and XTR are 'nice' and spinning inside a CK bb, I'd ooh and ahh right along with everyone else. I'm just an old bang for the buck type of guy. I just can't justify it for my own riding.

    Shimano XT FC-M785 Crankset > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop
    Sram X.9 10 Speed Crankset > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

    Do they sell the rings separately or do you have to buy the whole shebang? I notice some co.s like e*Thirteen seem to sell the arms separately and others like shimano I see no notice of rings being sold alone for replacement ???
    sure, you can buy almost every single piece individually, mainly for replacement purposes. As an aside, you need to be careful when switching rings out though. They are designed as a system and changes will effect shifting performance. whenever possible go with a direct replacement on rings. unless its a 1x setup in which case, go bigger, smaller and use whatever brand you like. Any compatible crankset will slide right into a matching BB from another manufacturer. Compatible is the key word.

    Sorry for the questions. I am a noob.
    well, no one should begrudge you asking tons of questions to get this done right. no worries there! good conversation. I like working on bike almost as much as riding, and talking about bikes & riding is a close third place. happy to help.
    Last edited by RTM; 09-11-2012 at 08:51 AM.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by roxo56 View Post
    Is the BB important enuf to spend bigger bucks on. It seems like since it's a wear item and is going to need replacing regularly anyways. Do they sell the rings separately or do you have to buy the whole shebang ?
    I've got about 3000 hard miles on the original crank / bb (XTR 970) on my Nomad and it still feels fine. In fact, the only time I've blown out one of the external BB's is when I was a dumbass and put the wrong spacer combination when installing.

    Like mentioned... The CK BB looks bling and probably spin a little smoother, but I haven't been able to mentally justify spending the $ for what is probabaly a very minor improvement..

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    Framed arrived noon today. Not a scratch and fully faced for BB and headset.
    Nice frame. Weighed in at exact 3500 grams.

    Final list of parts as ordered:

    frame butcher 2x10 $675.00 3500
    Fork Fox float 36 $561.00 2099
    headset Chris King inset gold $159.00 250
    crankset Shimano xt m780 24-32-42t $229.00 881
    bashring e*Thirteen turbocharger white $39.99 87
    granny gear Shimano 22t $20.00 -5
    front der Shimano xt m785 2x10 $44.98 128
    rear der shimano m780 10 spd $89.98 229
    shift levers shimano xt m780 3x10 $139.98 278
    cassette Shimano SLX HG81 10 Speed $54.98 337
    chain Shimano ultegra 6700 x 116links $39.98 275
    front hub Shimano HB-M776 XT 36h 20mm $68.29 185
    rear hub Shimano XT M756A 36h 6-bolt $74.91 496
    front rim velocity blunt sl 650b $89.99 400
    rear rim velocity blunt sl 650b $89.99 400
    spokes dt swiss 2.0/1.8/20 $108.00 540
    nipples 12mm x 2.0mm gold (72) $32.40 22
    tires kenda nevegal dtc 650b x 2.1" $100.00 1280
    brakes shimano xt $279.98 250
    front rotor alligator wincutter ti 203mm $29.98 141
    rear rotor alligator windcutter ti 180mm $29.98 101
    adapters alligator centerlock adapters $27.96 40
    handlebar Easton EA70 XC Bar $39.98 165
    stem TRUVATIV AKA Stem $24.98 145
    seat WTB Speed v pro gel Saddle $34.98 400
    seatpost Truvativ T20 31.6mm, black $42.98 270
    pedals shimano m785 xt spd trail pedal $119.98 402

    totals $3,248.27
    weight kilo 13296
    weight lbs 29.25

    Now to start building.
    Y'all talked me into building my own wheels.
    Bought the tools and might need some pointers as work progresses.
    Oh well, here I go and I'm still under original budget despite modest bling flings.
    Gold spoke nipples and gold CK headset, what a joke...lol...

    Thanks so much for your ideas and suggestions !
    roxo56
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  17. #17
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    Good luck with the build, I've been thinking of doing the same w/my Heckler. Post pics when done.

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    I think I need some help. I might have ordered the wrong front derailleur or I just don't see how it fits on the Butcher.

    " width="549">



    Sorry for the iPhone pix...
    Also, does the rear derailleur just mount to the frame with the one bolt ?
    I gave up on trying to build my own wheelset. Maybe next time after I attend a class at PB.

    Good news though on the 650b fitting though. The 2.1's with blunt sl easily fits front and rear and looks like my next tires the 2.3's fit too....
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    Quote Originally Posted by roxo56 View Post
    I think I need some help. I might have ordered the wrong front derailleur or I just don't see how it fits on the Butcher.
    Wrong one, it's a direct mount. You want a regular ts/tp.

    "The Butcher uses a 34.9 top swing/top pull front derailleur. Pretty much anything from SRAM or Shimano that meets these guidelines will work (not Saint)."

    Might help:
    BUTCHER

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    I also think I might have ordered handlebars that are too short. They're 580mm Eastons. Did I get the wrong bars ? Seem a bit narrow. What's a good width for trail riding ?
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    Quote Originally Posted by roxo56 View Post
    I also think I might have ordered handlebars that are too short. They're 580mm Eastons. Did I get the wrong bars ? Seem a bit narrow. What's a good width for trail riding ?
    While bar width is a personal preference I would say at 6'2", you ordered the wrong bars. I'm 6' and like 710-720mm width but I have a couple of riding buddies that are shorter than me running 780mm wide bars.

  22. #22
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    Sorry to say you're right, that's way too short. For a serious trail bike you'll want 760, maybe 780 and you can always cut them down.


    - Rob

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    Quote Originally Posted by roxo56 View Post
    I also think I might have ordered handlebars that are too short. They're 580mm Eastons. Did I get the wrong bars ? Seem a bit narrow. What's a good width for trail riding ?
    711mm to 750mm seems to be the middle range now. I'm 6'2" and run 750mm Havoc carbons on my TRc (with a 70mm stem). If you have lots of trees and narrow spaces, you may consider smaller. I think 680mm is about the narrowest I see anymore, and most people seem to think those are too narrow now. They are making wider and wider stuff... ends up looking like you're getting crucified going down the trail. I'm not sure I'd gain much from wider bars on a trailbike... I like my Havocs. (This could easily turn into a "Best AM bar width" thread popular in the AM forum... and we don't want that.)

    "fun" reading:
    How wide are your AM handlebars?
    Bar width vs stem length?

    What length of stem did you go with? Wide bars and short stem is more common now. Wider bars will effectively make the top tube "seem" longer, so people shorten the stem.

  24. #24
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    Looks like I'm learning the hard way. Bars and derailleur going back...
    roxo56
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    IMO the Blunt SL rim is not a good choice, especially for your weight and riding conditions. Many reports of them being soft and denting easily (a riding friend dented his in our New England rocks and I told him not to buy them). If you keep em run high tire pressure. Regular Blunt, Flow EX, Pacenti TL28 or DL31 would be better. Clearance won't be an issue with the Butcher. Plenty of info in the 650B forum.

    I also would have gone with an SLX M665 crank set. It's actually a 9 speed double 22/36/bash that works just fine with 10 speed chain, cassette, RD etc. Strong, stiff, reasonable weight, beefy bash and excellent price. Get the matching SLX compact double specific FD to go with it for nice crisp shifting. If you had gotten that crank you wouldn't have to order the extra 22T ring and also gotten a stronger bash over the E Thirteen (but not as nice looking I admit). I've broken my E Thirteen Turbocharger bash and replaced it with a stronger Truvative RockGuard.

    See this about the crank Shimano SLX M665 Double Crankset Review - BikeRadar

    2.3 Neo Motos both F/B over the Kendas which are slow rolling and puncture to easily. More really good 650B tires are coming very soon but the Neo's are just so good....if you can find them.

    As an FYI Hope stuff can be ordered from the UK for cheaper than you can get it for here in the US (Wiggle, CRC etc) and you'd get free shipping also. I've got 3 EVO Pro 2 front hubs (2 650B a 1 26" wheel) and love the things they convert so easily to different axle sizes. Hadley rear hub is my personal preference. Stans Flows and a Pacenti TL 28 are the rims I use.
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

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    Quote Originally Posted by skidad View Post
    IMO the Blunt SL rim is not a good choice, especially for your weight and riding conditions. Many reports of them being soft and denting easily (a riding friend dented his in our New England rocks and I told him not to buy them). If you keep em run high tire pressure. Regular Blunt, Flow EX, Pacenti TL28 or DL31 would be better. Clearance won't be an issue with the Butcher. Plenty of info in the 650B forum.

    I also would have gone with an SLX M665 crank set. It's actually a 9 speed double 22/36/bash that works just fine with 10 speed chain, cassette, RD etc. Strong, stiff, reasonable weight, beefy bash and excellent price. Get the matching SLX compact double specific FD to go with it for nice crisp shifting. If you had gotten that crank you wouldn't have to order the extra 22T ring and also gotten a stronger bash over the E Thirteen (but not as nice looking I admit). I've broken my E Thirteen Turbocharger bash and replaced it with a stronger Truvative RockGuard.

    See this about the crank Shimano SLX M665 Double Crankset Review - BikeRadar

    2.3 Neo Motos both F/B over the Kendas which are slow rolling and puncture to easily. More really good 650B tires are coming very soon but the Neo's are just so good....if you can find them.

    As an FYI Hope stuff can be ordered from the UK for cheaper than you can get it for here in the US (Wiggle, CRC etc) and you'd get free shipping also. I've got 3 EVO Pro 2 front hubs (2 650B a 1 26" wheel) and love the things they convert so easily to different axle sizes. Hadley rear hub is my personal preference. Stans Flows and a Pacenti TL 28 are the rims I use.
    Well, I will take your advice when these items fail or wear out. Which, with my current weight at 250, shouldn't take too long. We'll know if those VBluntSL's can take it...
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    Does anyone know if the Santa Cruz Butcher or any other SC frames requires the headtube and BB to be faced?

    roxo56 how did the wheel build go?

    I also bought a SC Butcher and deciding on how to build up the bike...thinking 1x10 650b trail build.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by imom View Post
    Does anyone know if the Santa Cruz Butcher or any other SC frames requires the headtube and BB to be faced?

    roxo56 how did the wheel build go?

    I also bought a SC Butcher and deciding on how to build up the bike...thinking 1x10 650b trail build.
    Been overseas for last 3 weeks. Left wheels w/ LBS during my trip after giving up on lacing wheels. Going to pick them up today and will post pix of tire clearances on butcher soon.

    I screwed up on ordering seat post, tried to force it in not realizing it and might be in trouble with that. Used some electrical tape to inside of stretched frame tube as shimming and it works perfectly.
    Such a moron...
    Correct (swapped) front derailleur arrived while gone. CK headset too. Otherwise, getting close to finished. Might need some help-advice with cable routing from y'all...

    Hey, I'm used to working on 2 stroke dirt bikes and therefore a bit heavy handed with the tools. Working on MTB's requires a deft touch and some know-how.
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    when you installed the CK headset... did you have to face the head tube? Not sure with new frames from Santa Cruz if you need to face the head tube or BB?

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    Quote Originally Posted by imom View Post
    when you installed the CK headset... did you have to face the head tube? Not sure with new frames from Santa Cruz if you need to face the head tube or BB?
    Yes, new frames from SC come faced at BB and HS and are good to go.
    At least, my butcher was...?
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    I need a little help...
    I bought an xt hub that has the centerlock brake rotor setup and bought a 203mm alligator 6-bolt rotor and alligator adaptor to convert. However, while attempting to install it yesterday it seems that the adaptor locking cap will not fit over the 20mm axle. It also appears after putting the now built wheel on the 160mm forks that the rotor will be too close to the left stanchion anyways. Has anyone ever come across this before ?
    Is the answer simply that I need a centerlock front brake rotor ? Are those available in 203mm ?

    BTW, for those wondering how a 650b wheel setup works with the butcher frame and fox 160 fork, theres huge room in there. Especially at the rear wheel. As soon as I have the tires mounted up I'll post clear pix. Bike is looking good but these little problems are discouraging and frustrating.
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    In case you didn't catch this thread:
    http://forums.mtbr.com/650b/initial-...0b-799184.html

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    I did miss that thread somehow. Any thoughts on my Front rotor issue ?
    Did you post a parts list on that butcher ?
    Nice job !
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  34. #34
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    I am not familar with centerlock hubs or the adaptors, but a quick google'in shows that DT is probably the one you want. DT Swiss Centerlock Adapter > Components > Brakes > Brake Adapters | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop
    Here is my parts listing:
    2011 Santa Cruz Butcher
    2011 Fox Float 36 RLC
    RS Monarch RT3 Plus
    RockShox Reverb Seatpost
    Shimano XT M785 Disc Brake Set
    Shimano XT RT-86 203\180 IceTech Rotors
    Shimano XT M771 11-36 10-Spd Cassette
    Shimano XT M786 GS Mid-Cage Shadow Plus 10-Spd RD
    Shimano XT SL78 I-Spec Integration
    Shimano XT M780 RightHand 10-Spd Shifter
    Straitline Silent Guide Replacement Guides
    Straitline Silent Guide Replacement Boomerang
    KMC X10SL 10-sp Chain
    Cane Creek 110 Short ZS44 Top Headset Cup
    Cane Creek 110 EC49 Lower Headset Cup
    Brass Nipples
    PWB Colored Spokes
    2.3 Pacenti Neo-Moto
    2.3 Kenda Nevagal Dual Comp
    2x Velocity Blunt SL
    Chris King 10mm Rear Axle & Adjusting Clamp
    MRP Camber crankset
    E-Thirteen 32t Ring
    K-Edge MTB Ring Guard
    Goodridge Disc Hose x3 & Collars
    Funn Riser Handlebar 730mm
    Frameskin Vinyl wrap
    carried over items:
    (King 20mm, King discotech, grips, Time pedals, Truvativ stem, WTB Thinline)

  35. #35
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    Update on my build...
    Weight is right at 31 lbs, kinda porky, huh ?
    Almost finished. Got a few things left to do.
    Install chain. Install rear brake adapter. Grips. Derraileur adjustments. Replace seat tube collar. Locate and install front fork hose guide (didn't come with the fork).
    Find a local trail and get suspension settings dialed in.

    Maybe someone could check my cable routing ?
    Never done it before. Might be an error ?

    Here's a few pics...





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    If anyone is interested in tire clearance of a 650b through a float 36 here's a pic...
    I'd reckon that's about 12mm give or take.


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    Not that it matters as some people have installed it as you did, but your e13 bashguard is supposed to be installed with one of the logos under the crank arm (rotate 90deg)...but again, doesn't really matter

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    I really don't care for the look of that bashring on the bike and am looking for an alternative. Maybe something that mounts to the iscg tabs ?
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  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by roxo56 View Post
    Update on my build...
    Weight is right at 31 lbs, kinda porky, huh ?
    Almost finished. Got a few things left to do.
    Install chain. Install rear brake adapter. Grips. Derraileur adjustments. Replace seat tube collar. Locate and install front fork hose guide (didn't come with the fork).
    Find a local trail and get suspension settings dialed in.

    Maybe someone could check my cable routing ?
    Never done it before. Might be an error ?
    Hey, it's coming together nicely. 31lbs is not bad at all. You may put another pound on with final adjustments but still a good weight for that frame.

    A few things I noticed.

    The seat angle is off. Of course thats one that I'm sure you'd fix on your own.
    Did you sit on the bike and adjust the cockpit to your actual dimensions? If so, disregard, but if not, I would start with a lot less spacers below the stem. Don't cut the steerer until you get a few rides in but if possible you don't want that many spacers involved. If nothing else, it looks like you are using spacers to account for a poor fitting bike. But hey, if the spacers are what's needed then go for it. Just a suggestion. And, if it won't bust the bank, and will fit you OK, go with a shorter stem.

    Regarding the bash, it looks like its a lot bigger diameter than you need? For the occasional rock strike and logs a lighter bash guard in a smaller diameter would look and function a lot better. The alloy rings from race face are great. Jenson has them in white and other colors for $21. However, on that bike, i would go with a black guard. The Gamut P20 is another good option.


    - Rob

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    Yeah, no cockpit adjustments have been made at all yet. I'll leave the spacers on until I can figure out how tall I want the forktube. Then cut it off and reduce the top stack to the min needed by the CK headset.

    Glad to hear 31# is not too bad. Forks did weigh more than I thought but since I'm a clydsedale, no biggy.

    I'll check out the raceface and gamut bashrings. I'm going to wait on final gearing selection so bigger won't hurt for now. Lot's of setup fussing ahead of me now.
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